Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: willard on October 31, 2017, 09:45:13 AM
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The world of non vintage motorcycling is fairly new to me. EFI is a mystery, and everything seems so expensive!
I want to know. For a fairly unmolested 30,000 mile Breva 750, whats the most bang for buck upgrade?
I was thinking about replacing the exhaust crossover, which is relatively cheap. under $100. Other things are not so cheap. New shocks are 300-400 dollars :( But new fork springs are only a little more than $100. Luggage bags and minstral exhausts are crazy expensive...
I got the bike fairly cheaply (under $2000), and I'd like to keep it cheap. But I do want to know what out there that really enhances the experience.
Two upgrades that I have in mind for later are the sump spacer and center stand, but at almost $300 a piece, I can barely justify the expense.
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Hagon shocks can be a bit less, depending on what style you want.
http://davequinnmotorcycles.com/cgi-bin/webc.cgi/HAGON_TWIN_SHOCKS.html
I'd definitely want a centerstand, perhaps you can find one used?
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Front and rear suspension upgrades and a sump-spacer will give you the biggest bang for the buck. If you wish to travel, luggage/seat/wind protection come next...
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Hagon shocks can be a bit less, depending on what style you want.
http://davequinnmotorcycles.com/cgi-bin/webc.cgi/HAGON_TWIN_SHOCKS.html
I'd definitely want a centerstand, perhaps you can find one used?
I've looked at all the usual places (ebay, craigslist), but no sign of any used ones. Any idea on what model number Hagon shocks work for the Breva?
Front and rear suspension upgrades and a sump-spacer will give you the biggest bang for the buck. If you wish to travel, luggage/seat/wind protection come next...
Yea, If I can find affordable rear suspension, I may well do front and back upgrades.
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Any idea on what model number Hagon shocks work for the Breva?
Dave Quinn builds them to fit you and your bike, so it's best to give him a call.
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Dave Quinn builds them to fit you and your bike, so it's best to give him a call.
Just sent an email. Thanks for bearing with me.
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Hands Down - the Startus Interuptus Fix
$5 for an in-line fuse and bit of wire, what's it worth to have reliable starting?
(http://image.ibb.co/gkSiTG/Breva.jpg)
I'm almost certain the 850 Breva uses the same yellow wire.
I helped with one at the National in JD
The starter solenoid likes 40 - 50 Amps to engage the starter, it's lucky to get 20 through the spaghetti wiring.
The factory wiring is weak with the current going through switch contacts to and fro.
This fix will engage the starter in about half the time it took before.
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"Worth it" and "cheap" are not the same thing. :wink:
Roy is right about the starter wiring, but that's not an upgrade - it's a mandatory fix.
Center stand is #1, it will make living with the bike a whole lot more pleasant.
I'd target the suspension next.
Exhaust would probably be last on my list.
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"Worth it" and "cheap" are not the same thing. :wink:
Roy is right about the starter wiring, but that's not an upgrade - it's a mandatory fix.
Center stand is #1, it will make living with the bike a whole lot more pleasant.
I'd target the suspension next.
Exhaust would probably be last on my list.
That kind of what I meant, but badly worded. Since it seems more expensive to me, I'd like to make the best, most "worth it", purchases possible.
I think I'm going to wait for a cheaper center stand or alternative before I spend $300 on one of the HB ones.
You mention starter wiring? I'm not privy to this fix, but my bike does have an issue where the starter button seems to do nothing, but I can always get it to start.
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The rolled perf stainless heat shield extensions that my mate came up with. Fit neatly under the existing ones and contrive to look like a factory accessory.
Now, if I could just find the photo........ :rolleyes:
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Rear luggage rack c/w top box. Bike is useless with out it. Rack about $150 and the top box as much or as little as you want to spend.
Tim
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In spite of the reluctance to spend money (not unusual at all among us lot), after the centre stand, the best bang for the buck with the twin throttle body is still the mufflers. I didn't believe it either, until I put the Staintunes on. However, there plenty of the bikes out there still with stock mufflers, so it's not actually essential, merely desirable. The centrestand however is another matter - you can get by without it, but you shouldn't have to.
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Makes me wonder why they thought leaving it off was ever a good idea.
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BTW, I have a ZIP file (a bit large, 37 MB) with all the manuals and a bunch of other useful info for the 750 Breva. If you want it, send me a PM with your direct email address and I can forward it to you.
The wiring diagram above is accurate, but there's a bit better explanation and discussion in some earlier threads, such as:
http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=91964.0 (http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=91964.0)
I can't seem to find the (rather old) thread where I gave a full description of the fix for a 2004 Breva 750 - perhaps the mods have a better search method.
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Quoting ITSec's earlier post (from the other thread"
"It is my contention that this is actually a problem that has the potential to affect any MG from the last 50 years, since they all ran the starter voltage on tiny wires up through the switch. Consistency is the hobgoblin of small minds, as Oscar said (misquoting Johnson)."
:thumb: :thumb:
My theory is the factory don't even know how much the starter solenoid pulls to engage the gear
They don't show the second heavy current coil on any of their schematics and give it just a 15 Amp fuse?
If you measure the current with a multimeter you will see < 10 Amps because the multimeter is too slow, it's only with an Oscilloscope you see the inrush current of around 40 Amps while the second coil is in circuit.
When the circuit gets a bit weak it's not able to pull the solenoid in but still drawing enough current to blow a 15 Amp fuse (my guess 20-25 Amps). If you were able to catch it with the multimeter at this stage it would show the real current.
I have measured a current of ~ 30 Amps with re-freshed ignition switch and factory wiring but more like 40 with the fix.
The time it takes for the solenoid to close the main contacts will drop from 20mS to 10 mS when fixed
Roy
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Makes me wonder why they thought leaving it off was ever a good idea.
So they could get a little more $ out of you after you bought the bike just like other brands are doing now on new bikes. :smiley: I got a Guzzi factory centerstand after I bought my used `04 750 Breva years ago and it didn't cost $300. Maybe you can still get 1 now new thru a dealer. All I added to mine is a Rifle Sport fairing, Hepco-Becker 30L hard bags, frame mount kit and a NonFango universal top case mount I had off another of my bikes, + a 36L Givi saddlebag I use as a top case. Never found a reason to modify the front forks or rear shocks. Replaced my mufflers for $100 when my factory mufflers started to rattle with Emgos. They're a lot lighter, louder, and I like their looks. :thumb: Never had an issue with the seat. I put an on/off toggle switch for the headlight on to save the battery like the Breva comes with in other countries.
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I was thinking about replacing the exhaust crossover, which is relatively cheap. under $100.
No need to replace the exhaust crossover. If you extend the oxygen sensor wires you can use the original crossover and merely rotate it out of the way.
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Is mufflers rattling a "thing" with Breva 750's. Noticed my left side rattles when letting the clutch out and accelerating from a stop?
Cheers, Tim
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Is mufflers rattling a "thing" with Breva 750's. Noticed my left side rattles when letting the clutch out and accelerating from a stop?
Cheers, Tim
Tim,
I think Willard might be replacing the exhaust x-over to make for easy access to the transmission drain bolt, which it blocks.
Is your rattling the exhaust, or the normal dry clutch sounds that many Ducatis and Guzzis have?
Joe
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Could be that, that's why I asked. I rode a friends Duc 740 with a dry clutch. Sounded like a coffee can shaking with a dozen or so bolts in it. This isn't that bad. Almost sounds like a heat shield vibrating and rattling yet all appears to be tight. Thought it might be a baffle but the clutch is also a possibility. Been doing it for 7000km since I bought the bike and there is no driveabilty issues so I assume all is good.
Cheers, Tim
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Wow, lots of great info in this thread. Thank you, everyone, for your contributions.
Could anyone explain what an ecu reflash is? I keep seeing all these electronic items like power commanders and I assume it is to modify the ecu to better fueling. I'm not sure it it would be worth the money, since the factory probably tuned the ecu for maximum fuel efficiency and longevity, which is what I'm after. But I hear a reflash is a helpful thing. I'm assuming it basically refreshes the ecu, like maybe reinstalling an OS on a computer would. Would that be helpful?
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Willard,
The primary reason people reflash the ECU, or changing the air-fuel map in the ECU, is to avoid the ever more rigorous emission requirements. To comply, manufacturers are making the air-fuel mix leaner and leaner, which hurts both longevity and better running.
There are many ways to go around this. I use a programable ECU from Australia, My ECU http://www.myecu.biz/MyECU/index.htm (http://www.myecu.biz/MyECU/index.htm)
but that only works for older, pre-2013 bikes. Another technique is programable software, using the old ECU. GuzziDiag is an example, and it's free shareware!
Shops will also reflash your ECU, which is loading a new map. But this is $, and is a one-time shot.
To look at examples of dyno runs of 750 bikes before/after ECU mods, look at the Files page of the Yahoo MG 750 group. There's a dozen there. https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/MG_750/info (https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/MG_750/info)
Joe
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Wow, lots of great info in this thread. Thank you, everyone, for your contributions.
Could anyone explain what an ecu reflash is? I keep seeing all these electronic items like power commanders and I assume it is to modify the ecu to better fueling. I'm not sure it it would be worth the money, since the factory probably tuned the ecu for maximum fuel efficiency and longevity, which is what I'm after. But I hear a reflash is a helpful thing. I'm assuming it basically refreshes the ecu, like maybe reinstalling an OS on a computer would. Would that be helpful?
ECU = Engine Control Unit
Its primary function is to control spark and fuel injector timing, based on real-time integration of sensor inputs for ground speed, engine RPM, throttle opening, altitude, and air temperature .
A "Reflash" re-writes a different version of the "Fuel Map" stored in an EEPROM in the ECU, which is basically a lookup-table that determines the best crankshaft angles for spark fire and injector pulse for each cylinder. The ECU is an amazing bit of electronic wizardry:
(http://dansher.com/bikepix/Guzzi/ECU_pinout.jpg)
Here is a link to a reference text file that I maintain to help me with maintenence of my own 50,000+ mile 2004 Breva 750:
http://www.dansher.com/bikepix/Guzzi/_V7_fyi.txt (http://www.dansher.com/bikepix/Guzzi/_V7_fyi.txt)
'Geezer
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Could be that, that's why I asked. I rode a friends Duc 740 with a dry clutch. Sounded like a coffee can shaking with a dozen or so bolts in it. This isn't that bad. Almost sounds like a heat shield vibrating and rattling yet all appears to be tight. Thought it might be a baffle but the clutch is also a possibility. Been doing it for 7000km since I bought the bike and there is no driveabilty issues so I assume all is good.
Cheers, Tim
Two skeletons fornicating in a tin bath is a closer description of my Griso
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The rattles on the 2throttle body 750's could be a few things.
1. The baffles in a muffler could have come loose - one did so on my V7C & was replaced under warranty. (Still in the box, I took that opportunity to change over to Staintunes). The Breva has a different muffler, tho' .
2. A known issue is the occasional failure of the spot welds that hold the inner pipe in the header. It's usually the ones at the bottom end near the muffler that fail. One fix is to drill a couple of holes through the outer sheath & spot weld them properly. If done reasonably well, it is not unsightly.
3. The horns are a known source of mysterious) rattles - the outer body vibrates loose. Test by removing them & riding for a while to see if it makes a difference. Can be replaced with Fiamm Strong Tones - similar size & a little fatter & a decent noise.
The 15RC ECU (as on the Breva 750 & the 2TB V7's) is usually pretty decent. And doesn't require fiddling with (unlike the later MIU C3 on the later 1TB V7's). Beetle has a free (& unsupported) map for it on www.griso.org that turns off the lambda, or you could turn it off yourself with Tuner Pro in Guzzidiag's suite of programs. I've found that mostly a hard reset of the ECU (removing the negative terminal on the battery & replacing it) is enough to restart the auto learning function in the ECU.
Mal
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While we are talking about rattles, ... I found the exhaust manifold bolts coming loose.
Had to add lock washers (spring washers) mainly because at a glance, they would show when the bolt was backing out.
After those, and a good torque, no problems.
(http://www.camrosecountryhardware.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/spring-washers.jpg)
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While we are talking about rattles, ... I found the exhaust manifold bolts coming loose.
Had to add lock washers (spring washers) mainly because at a glance, they would show when the bolt was backing out.
After those, and a good torque, no problems.
(http://www.camrosecountryhardware.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/spring-washers.jpg)
I had to go that route on 1 of my VX800 header exhausts. End of issue. :thumb: Never had that issue on my 750 Breva.
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ECU = Engine Control Unit
Its primary function is to control spark and fuel injector timing, based on real-time integration of sensor inputs for ground speed, engine RPM, throttle opening, altitude, and air temperature .
A "Reflash" re-writes a different version of the "Fuel Map" stored in an EEPROM in the ECU, which is basically a lookup-table that determines the best crankshaft angles for spark fire and injector pulse for each cylinder. The ECU is an amazing bit of electronic wizardry:
(http://dansher.com/bikepix/Guzzi/ECU_pinout.jpg)
Here is a link to a reference text file that I maintain to help me with maintenence of my own 50,000+ mile 2004 Breva 750:
http://www.dansher.com/bikepix/Guzzi/_V7_fyi.txt (http://www.dansher.com/bikepix/Guzzi/_V7_fyi.txt)
'Geezer
MOTOgeezer
WOW
I almost missed the significance of your post :bow:
Take a close look at what he's put together guys
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This is awesome.
Thank you for the information MOTOgeezer.
My Breva pops mildly on decel using E10 93 octane gas and E0 87 octane gas. So I'm assuming the ECU may have already been flashed to run more rich. Or is that a misled assumption?
Edit: I just filled up and got 38mpg doing light commuting. 65 percent 45-50mph backroads and 35 percent highway 75mph. This seems a little low. Ideally I'd be 45-55 mpg with 55-65mpg with full highway miles. Is this possible with the breva 750? If so, could my low mpg be linked to my, assumedly, rich fuel condition?
I just aquired this bike a week ago with 30,000 miles, so I have no idea what's been done to it, but it seems completely stock to me.
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38mpg is low. There's something not right. 45-55 is the usual range, and I think it's unlikely to ever get much better than 55mpg.. Sustained high speed riding (80-85 mph - trying to keep up with big blocks) might bring it closer to 45.
It could be a lot of things, or a combination. So start at the beginning - a full service (oils, filters, tappets, plugs), check tyre pressures, check for the brakes dragging, wheel bearings, that sort of thing. If the air filter & airbox was too filthy, it would be running roughly & perhaps missing at around 4,000rpm.& you'd know about it. Try re-setting the ECU after your service - remove the negative terminal on the battery for a few minutes, then ride for, say, 50 miles. Check the plugs - are they soothed up already? Does the motor idle at 1100 +/- 100rpm? Check that both overflows in the tank are unobstructed.(the tank will have to come off for that I'm afraid). While you are there, drain the fuel & check for water in it., replace with fresh stuff. While the tank is off & empty, I would take out the fuel pump to check the state of the filter & the hoses in there.
When the basics have been covered, see if you can find someone who has Guzzidiag & the cables to check the map you are running & to find out if there are any errors stored. At 30,000 miles the motor is still relatively new & it shouldn't have been molested with too badly. Let us know how you go.
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38mpg is low. There's something not right. 45-55 is the usual range, and I think it's unlikely to ever get much better than 55mpg.. Sustained high speed riding (80-85 mph - trying to keep up with big blocks) might bring it closer to 45.
It could be a lot of things, or a combination. So start at the beginning - a full service (oils, filters, tappets, plugs), check tyre pressures, check for the brakes dragging, wheel bearings, that sort of thing. If the air filter & airbox was too filthy, it would be running roughly & perhaps missing at around 4,000rpm.& you'd know about it. Try re-setting the ECU after your service - remove the negative terminal on the battery for a few minutes, then ride for, say, 50 miles. Check the plugs - are they soothed up already? Does the motor idle at 1100 +/- 100rpm? Check that both overflows in the tank are unobstructed.(the tank will have to come off for that I'm afraid). While you are there, drain the fuel & check for water in it., replace with fresh stuff. While the tank is off & empty, I would take out the fuel pump to check the state of the filter & the hoses in there.
When the basics have been covered, see if you can find someone who has Guzzidiag & the cables to check the map you are running & to find out if there are any errors stored. At 30,000 miles the motor is still relatively new & it shouldn't have been molested with too badly. Let us know how you go.
Thank you. I already have the oil change kit, valve cover gaskets, and air filter ordered from MG Cycles, so I should be able to do the service before very long.
I've been running no ethanol fuel for the past 100 miles, at least, so I'm pretty sure there's no water in the tank. I'll order a new filter and change it out, regardless.
The bike seems to run well, aside from the popping on deceleration. It's been a pleasure thus far. I've been thinking about going to the North Georgia/Tennessee Guzzi meet up on the 18th, so maybe someone there will be able to check my ECU.
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I will be dealing in imp. gallons.
I get about 270 miles out of a tank (that hasn't run out but rattling). Close to 70 mpg(imp) Cruising at highway speeds a bit over 65mph.
On the Tattley Rappet I was cruising at 6200 in top for quite a while, dropped to about 61mpg.
No burps, farts or missing.
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On ya Muzz. Good to have a proper target in proper gallons.
6200rpm. I take it you were chasing (or leading) the odd V11 & other assorted big blocks, or perhaps Neill's 1000S - locals on their own roads).
Came across a couple of Breva's for sale at a dealer in Hastings earlier this week. Tempting.
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The Breva popping on decel? Check first for air leaks in the exhaust system. Perhaps try replacing the exhaust gaskets - they don't last forever. Note that the exhaust nuts have a tendency to seize on the studs over time. An occasional loosening & re-tightening helps prevent that.
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The Breva popping on decel? Check first for air leaks in the exhaust system. Perhaps try replacing the exhaust gaskets - they don't last forever. Note that the exhaust nuts have a tendency to seize on the studs over time. An occasional loosening & re-tightening helps prevent that.
I'll check that out.
Just filled the tires today. I'm running Avon Roadriders, and 42 psi was what was posted on both tires. This seems a bit high, but the tires were around 30 psi rear and 25-30 front, so I knew they were low. I filled them up to 40 psi each. Handling seems improved. I also installed a new air filter today. Not as easy as my old Honda's for sure, but I got it done in 30 min or so without removing the tank. Power seems better in the low and mid rpm bands, but I'm unsure if this is real or placebo.
I found something I thought met my standards of "worth it". Joe kenny head guards, as posted in another thread here. I'm waiting to do my valves so that I can install the head guards at the same time.
Also, I bought some cheap adjustable levers from ebay.
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The 42 psi on the tyres is, I think, the theoretical maximum. (Check on the Avon website or other tyre nomenclature demystefiers on the web). The original Breva manuals call for 31 & 35. But then the V7 manuals (a different size tyre) started out saying 32 & 36, then later changed to 36 & 36. I run the Roadriders on my V7's at 36 & 36 and get decent mileage out of them.
Yes, a clean air filter can make a difference. You'll get faster than 30 minutes with practice. I have done it removing one horn only, but usually both & sometimes even the reg/rec for additional room. It's the juggling of that lid that seems to take the time.
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My Breva pops mildly on decel using E10 93 octane gas and E0 87 octane gas. So I'm assuming the ECU may have already been flashed to run more rich. Or is that a misled assumption?
Edit: I just filled up and got 38mpg doing light commuting. 65 percent 45-50mph backroads and 35 percent highway 75mph. This seems a little low. Ideally I'd be 45-55 mpg with 55-65mpg with full highway miles. Is this possible with the breva 750? If so, could my low mpg be linked to my, assumedly, rich fuel condition?
I just aquired this bike a week ago with 30,000 miles, so I have no idea what's been done to it, but it seems completely stock to me.
"Popping, backfire, after-fire" by whatever name, means that enough fuel and air - and in the right ratio - is present in the exhaust stream to be lit off [usually] by latent heat in the pipe. Too-high octane (that's right, see more further below) and/or too tight (or no) exhaust tappet clearance (causes premature valve opening and burning) can put raw flame into the exhaust stream, providing an ignition source for popping. Buy two new valve cover gaskets and check clearances on all four valves asap.
VALVE CLEARANCE Guzzi Breva 750cc
0.006 inch (0.15 mm) intake
0.008 inch (0.20 mm) exhaust
The TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) should be checked and set by your dealer. That will be helpful in making sure no excessive fuel is being injected on deceleration (Closed Throttle). Also be sure all exhaust joints are tight and all have their factory gaskets (a 30,000 mile bike is probably missing some). Any excess fuel and/or source of outside air will also cause popping.
38 mpg is way too low. Have you checked that your disc brakes are not dragging (especially the rear one)? As pads wear down, ever more caliper piston is being permanently exposed to road elements. Corrosion on the exposed piston will cause failure to fully retract, causing drag. Just a little brake drag can cost you much mpg (and lower performance). Be sure to service (disassemble, inspect, clean) the brake caliper next time you take off the wheels.
Factory ECU settings are more likely to be too lean (blame: lawyers & eviro laws) than too rich. If TPS is right, the air cleaner is actually clean (replace to be sure), and injectors are working properly, then 38 mpg is too low. How do your plug colors look (should be light tan inside)? Has the PO (Previous Owner) jacked around with the O2 sensor or added any kind of Power Commander etc?
My '04 Breva came from the PO with an after market Power Commander and other add-on electronics. Engine ran nasty/evil, hard starting, surging, with lots of popping and only 38 mpg. Plug color was coal black. I took all this off and had the ECU reflashed by Todd over at GuzziTech. Best $250 I ever spent. Now my Breva is sweet running and gets high 50s for mpg - definitely now an ally, not an adversary. Plugs are now running light tan & popping is minimal (I have leaky, rusting out exhaust).
FLAME ALERT: Below I now open myself to Cruel Fuel Flaming & Shaming.
The higher the octane, the slower burns the fuel. That's what keeps a high-compression engine from detonating ("knocking"). The higher the compression, the more likely is the engine to detonate (similar to "dieseling").
The Breva 750 is not a high compression engine (about 9:1). Where I live at 5,000 ft altitude, working engine compression is much lower than at sea level. Therefore I use only lowest octane (85) pump gas. It's all she needs. Never knocks, not even one 115 degree afternoon 18 months ago in Moab, Utah.
Further, I declare that using needlessly high (or highest 92) octane can actually reduce miles per gallon if the exhaust valve opens before a high octane fuel charge has had a chance to fully burn. If raw flame gets into the exhaust stream then popping can result.
Now that I have lost all credibility with some, I retreat to eat my dinner...
'Geezer
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I am basically at sea level here Geezer and although mine will run on 91 it pinks like crazy at the first rise it comes to unless I don't go any lower than 4 grand. Sweet as on 95. Gave it a good go on 91 but we just have too many hills for it to be good for the motor. 95 only now.
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6200rpm. I take it you were chasing (or leading) the odd V11 & other assorted big blocks, or perhaps Neill's 1000S - locals on their own roads).
I got passed by Neil (nice bike that :thumb:) at about the half way point to Kaikoura. I was sort of in the leading lot rather than trailing, but wasn't actually chasing anyone. On the way back I was following Cod's 1400 (he had a scanner fitted). Good thing too! :thumb: :copcar:
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"Popping, backfire, after-fire" by whatever name, means that enough fuel and air - and in the right ratio - is present in the exhaust stream to be lit off [usually] by latent heat in the pipe. Too-high octane (that's right, see more further below) and/or too tight (or no) exhaust tappet clearance (causes premature valve opening and burning) can put raw flame into the exhaust stream, providing an ignition source for popping. Buy two new valve cover gaskets and check clearances on all four valves asap.
VALVE CLEARANCE Guzzi Breva 750cc
0.006 inch (0.15 mm) intake
0.008 inch (0.20 mm) exhaust
The TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) should be checked and set by your dealer. That will be helpful in making sure no excessive fuel is being injected on deceleration (Closed Throttle). Also be sure all exhaust joints are tight and all have their factory gaskets (a 30,000 mile bike is probably missing some). Any excess fuel and/or source of outside air will also cause popping.
38 mpg is way too low. Have you checked that your disc brakes are not dragging (especially the rear one)? As pads wear down, ever more caliper piston is being permanently exposed to road elements. Corrosion on the exposed piston will cause failure to fully retract, causing drag. Just a little brake drag can cost you much mpg (and lower performance). Be sure to service (disassemble, inspect, clean) the brake caliper next time you take off the wheels.
Factory ECU settings are more likely to be too lean (blame: lawyers & eviro laws) than too rich. If TPS is right, the air cleaner is actually clean (replace to be sure), and injectors are working properly, then 38 mpg is too low. How do your plug colors look (should be light tan inside)? Has the PO (Previous Owner) jacked around with the O2 sensor or added any kind of Power Commander etc?
My '04 Breva came from the PO with an after market Power Commander and other add-on electronics. Engine ran nasty/evil, hard starting, surging, with lots of popping and only 38 mpg. Plug color was coal black. I took all this off and had the ECU reflashed by Todd over at GuzziTech. Best $250 I ever spent. Now my Breva is sweet running and gets high 50s for mpg - definitely now an ally, not an adversary. Plugs are now running light tan & popping is minimal (I have leaky, rusting out exhaust).
FLAME ALERT: Below I now open myself to Cruel Fuel Flaming & Shaming.
The higher the octane, the slower burns the fuel. That's what keeps a high-compression engine from detonating ("knocking"). The higher the compression, the more likely is the engine to detonate (similar to "dieseling").
The Breva 750 is not a high compression engine (about 9:1). Where I live at 5,000 ft altitude, working engine compression is much lower than at sea level. Therefore I use only lowest octane (85) pump gas. It's all she needs. Never knocks, not even one 115 degree afternoon 18 months ago in Moab, Utah.
Further, I declare that using needlessly high (or highest 92) octane can actually reduce miles per gallon if the exhaust valve opens before a high octane fuel charge has had a chance to fully burn. If raw flame gets into the exhaust stream then popping can result.
Now that I have lost all credibility with some, I retreat to eat my dinner...
'Geezer
Geezer, thanks for your generous response. Have taken your advice and will be adjusting the valves tomorrow. I left the Breva at home today anyway, since it is supposed to rain.
I doubt brakes are dragging, but I was very very low on fluid in the rear reservoir. This seems to mean the rear pads have been worn considerably. I will order new pads with the fuel filter.
Anyone know any places that regularly stock 10w-60 oil for my upcoming oil change?
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Anyone know any places that regularly stock 10w-60 oil for my upcoming oil change?
You can get 10w-60 at a BMW car dealer, they used to use it in an old model. My local BMW auto place had Castrol 10w-60 cheaply, but they've since changed to BMW-branded oil and upped the price. Ain't progress grand?
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I am basically at sea level here Geezer and although mine will run on 91 it pinks like crazy at the first rise it comes to unless I don't go any lower than 4 grand. Sweet as on 95. Gave it a good go on 91 but we just have too many hills for it to be good for the motor. 95 only now.
I run my `04 750 Breva on 87 gas all the time @ any altitude and get no pinging even when riding 2up & loaded. Our ignitions are supposed to automatically adjust for altitude changes and my spark plugs always look spot on. I get 50 mpg. Bought my bike used and have never touched the timing. Changed he mufflers on it and the bike seemed to adjust to that on its own. :thumb:
I run 38 # front tire, 40# rear tire for no front tire cupping and longer tire wear and no bent rims if I hit an unexpected hole. I don't mind a firm ride and don't have to adjust my tire pressure when carrying more weight, which then makes the ride a little softer.
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What tires are you running Wayne? Any thoughts on them?
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Picking up some 15w-50 oil since that seems to be more common and is the recommended alternative for the 10w-60.
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I run my `04 750 Breva on 87 gas all the time @ any altitude and get no pinging even when riding 2up & loaded. Our ignitions are supposed to automatically adjust for altitude changes and my spark plugs always look spot on. I get 50 mpg. Bought my bike used and have never touched the timing. Changed he mufflers on it and the bike seemed to adjust to that on its own. :thumb:
We measure octane a little different in the US. Our numbers are lower because the RON and MON techniques are averaged. Here regular unleaded is typically 87-88 R+M and premium unleaded is 91-92...
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Picking up some 15w-50 oil since that seems to be more common and is the recommended alternative for the 10w-60.
No worries. I've been running the V7C (same motor) on 15w50 (Penrite later changed it to 15w60) for 7 years & 170,000km. Mind you, the motor has never been apart, & no forensic examination been done, but it's still running well. As long as it's running well, I'm not going to "fix" it.
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I run both the V7s on 91 & 95, and I haven't noticed/ am not aware of any significant difference in either running or consumption. I keep records, and one day I may get around to reading my old statistics texts & running the data through some rigorous mathematical models, just for fun. But I suspect the Difference will not be significant, especially as the measurements are imprecise - different gauges on different bowsers & every ride being different.
I've run 98 a few times, and 100 twice, and have not noticed any difference, other than the Shell 98 which may have resulted in starting problems on the V7C when relatively new. The additives in Shell 98 have been said to be inappropriate for our engines.
Stick with the lowest rated, or the next lowest, non-ethanol fuel & you should be OK. If you experience pinging as Muzz does, go the next one up. Easier for us - it appears to be harder for you guys in the US to avoid ethanol.
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So I did the service yesterday but it wasn't all perfect.
I couldn't get the front oil drain bolt off, so I decided to just leave it on. Then I added the oil. Once I did that I realized that I didn't change the filter. I'll be changing my oil again relatively soon. Maybe 2000 miles.
I did adjust the valves and add the head guards on. That was the easy part. Valves we're pretty in spec, although I did adjust the left side, just to be sure.
Spark plugs looked like this:
(http://i64.tinypic.com/2le4c9u.jpg)
I also changed the transmission/5 speed box oil. That was pretty easy too. Didn't even have to rotate the crossover.
Now, while I was doing all that, I noticed a hole in my left side exhaust silencer. Then I noticed there was a similar hole in the right one. Pretty sure the PO wanted a louder sound, so he hacked them open. Maybe this is linked to my low MPG and popping on decel?
(http://i65.tinypic.com/34orb0n.jpg)
Then I noticed the left side exhaust silencer was barely held on by this little hose clamp.
(http://i66.tinypic.com/2v81nw8.jpg)
It wiggles when I push it around.