Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Stephen Hill on October 31, 2017, 12:23:33 PM
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I would like to remove the bezels on the tach and speedo on my 1976 LeMans. The lenses are quite dirty on the inside, and will clean up if I can get the bezels off.
I have no idea how hard this is to do, or how destructive I would need to be. I'd rather live with dirty gauges than broken bits. Anyone taken them apart, and if so, how tough is it to do??
BTW, is there a short form/code for identifying "classic" guzzi vs new guzzi threads? I feel like I waste too much time scanning threads that are irrelevant to my bike/interests.
Stephen Hill
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Not the exact ones, but same idea.
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/moto_guzzi_loopframe_gauge_trim_ring_removal_and_installation.html
Other than that, not sure what the best way would be. Can opener?
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The trick is to keep the bezel from deforming while you use a tack puller, small screwdriver, or some tool you've made up to carefully pry the crimp up. I machined a pocket that it fit into. Others have used a hose clamp.
Putting "remove bezel" in the search box at the top will give you many tips.
Here's the first one that came up..
http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=76486.0
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I'm assuming these are crimp on rather than screw on. From my inquiry regarding the same on Smiths gauges there are three methods.
1) Put a large radiator clamp (not too tight) just under the bezel to protect the housing and gently pry the bezel up in very small increments with a tiny screwdriver.
2) Put the large radiator clamp around the top of the bezel. Grind down one side of a set of pliers to fit under the bezel and again pry open in very small increments.
3) If you have a lathe, mount the gauge in the chuck and at low rpms insert a tool or screwdriver under the bezel to gently spin it open.
Again, this was advice for Smiths gauges, just assuming they'll work on Veglias. I haven't tried this out, just passing on what passed down to me. Luck!
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Sounds like the bezels are crimped on. I am pretty familiar with re and re bezels on Smith magnetic gauges. On the Smith gauges. I buy new bezels because the chromed brass bezel generally does not respond well to unbending and rebending. And new bezels are readily available.
On the Veglia instruments of this era (1976), am I stuck re-using the originals, or are replacement bevels available?
Stephen Hill
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Putting "Veglia replacement bezel" in the search box brings up this thread..
http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=89589.0
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I haven't done the early Veglias but have done both instruments on my EV. I made a pry bar using a nail. Ground off three sides of the head and sharpened the remaining side. As said above lift only about 10 degrees at a time working around slowly.
Works one time. If you have to do it a second time the bezel will crack.
Pete
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As previous have said the bezel is crimped on. I would recommend ordering new bezels, fairly cheap. I have bought several sets form this seller.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Veglia-80mm-Tachometer-Bezel-Repair-Kit-Ducati-Moto-Guzzi-Morini-Laverda-BLACK/182859860368?hash=item2a934c0990:g:CsIAAOSwTA9X9swc&vxp=mtr
This is a simple clamping tool I made from scrap HPDE (hockey rink board) plastic
(http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg217/canuck750/August062012005.jpg) (http://s249.photobucket.com/user/canuck750/media/August062012005.jpg.html)
I protect the instrument body with a wrap of tape or a hose clamp, work slowly around the ruing with a tiny screwdriver to open the bezel ring.
Putting the new one on is done like this, use a fine brass punch and go round and round slowly tapping the bezel flat, you can get a good result this way.
(http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg217/canuck750/August062012012.jpg) (http://s249.photobucket.com/user/canuck750/media/August062012012.jpg.html)
(http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg217/canuck750/August062012014.jpg) (http://s249.photobucket.com/user/canuck750/media/August062012014.jpg.html)
I now use an old swing arm bearing mounted on a tool post on my lathe, the instrument sits in an aluminum carrier and the bearing is turned up against the bezel as the instrument spins getting a uniform and near perfect crimp of the ring.
This is a Nipon Denso from a Laverda (same as Honda CB750), on the lathe method
(http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg217/canuck750/1973%20Laverda%20SF1/IMG_1087_zps2caxe5vl.jpg) (http://s249.photobucket.com/user/canuck750/media/1973%20Laverda%20SF1/IMG_1087_zps2caxe5vl.jpg.html)
(http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg217/canuck750/1973%20Laverda%20SF1/IMG_1105_zpsywu24zpt.jpg) (http://s249.photobucket.com/user/canuck750/media/1973%20Laverda%20SF1/IMG_1105_zpsywu24zpt.jpg.html)
(http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg217/canuck750/1973%20Laverda%20SF1/IMG_1089_zpsws6ycspk.jpg) (http://s249.photobucket.com/user/canuck750/media/1973%20Laverda%20SF1/IMG_1089_zpsws6ycspk.jpg.html)