Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: JayDee24ca on November 02, 2017, 08:38:40 PM
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I hope to tear into the SPII (1987, 40,000 miles) later this winter to assess a few things. I have a suspicion that the small end bushings and/or wrist pins may be worn, and would like to know if the old bushings can be removed and new ones inserted with the rod is still on the crank, or is it more advisable to pull the rods to do this?
Thanks
JD
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You'll need to pull the rod.
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You'll need to pull the rod.
Thanks Charlie
JD
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You have to pull the rod because the bushing has to be pushed out new one pushed in and there's three holes on small end that need to be drilled so Oil Can you lubricate the wrist pin a good machine shop should be able to do that for you I just had it done at a place in New Haven Connecticut and it cost me a grand total of $24 and I supplied the bushing but any good machine shop sure that help you out you can order the bushing from mg Cycles etc etc etc also you will need to purchase a brand new wrist pin and the circlips that go in the Pistons be careful of the wrist pins you want to get the kind that has the same wall thickness as what you already have so the balance won't be changed there is say change over was a change over sometime around when the Cal two engines came out
TOMB
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When I stripped my engine one of the small end bushes was loose, just fell out of the rod. Was sized OK to the pin but too small in the rod, probably like that for years and didn't seem to have caused any problem?
Anyway I managed to fit a new one OK without removing the rod from the crank, could even drill it but then it needed accurately sizing to suit the pin (as it was undersized).
As the bushes were cheap enough and I had bought a spare anyway, I tried to ream it by hand (mostly out of curiosity). Seemed to go OK but the end result was not at exactly 90 degrees to the rod, despite being as careful as possible it was visibly out (never mind by precision measuring).
I removed the rod, took the bush out and took it to a friendly engineer with a new bush to get the job done properly...
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You have to pull the ride because the bushing has to be pushed out new one pushed in and there's three holes on a small end that need to be drilled so Oil Can you lubricate the wrist pin a good machine shop should be able to do that for you I just had it done at a place in New Haven Connecticut call nice ins and it cost me a grand total of $24 and I supplied the bushing but any good machine shop sure that help you out you can order the bushing from mg Cycles etc etc etc also you will need to purchase a brand new wrist pin and the circlips that go in the Pistons be careful of the wrist pins you want to get the kind that has the same wall thickness as what you already have so the balance won't be changed there is say change over was a change over sometime around when the Cal two engines came out
TOMB
I nominate this post for longest run on thread of the year. :smiley:
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IIRC, standard VW (old aircooled flat 4) small end rod bushings are usable on a guzzi from that era.
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Just curious what indications brought about your suspicion of small end wear.
You may be able to pull plug wires off alternately to isolate offending rod.
Noise should go away on worn area as combustion is removed from equation.
(Unless wear has progressed beyond a certain point, but clicking sound should still
become less pronounced...)
Just a thought.
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Chuck in Indiana
I guess the message is overlooked but punctuation is important so I noniminate you to also correct everyone else on this site and bring everyone up to your standard be sure you account for accents and translations
Rant over
TOMB
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Ah, come on, Tomb.. it was hard to read. I'm just joshin. :smiley:
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what indications brought about your suspicion of small end wear.
You may be able to pull plug wires off alternately to isolate offending rod.
The bike developed a significant buzz in the left handle bar last summer, to the extent that my hand was mildly numb after a 20 mile run at speed. It also has a fair bit of mechanical "thrashing" noise that has developed over the past year, and a distinct knock or slap at low rpm when releasing the clutch off the line.
While I am not able to say with certainty that the issue is with the small ends, it remains a possibility that is worth investigating. I have gone over the bike for rattling components, loose items, out of sync carbs, poor timing, worn ujoint etc, and so far not found the culprit. I intend to remove the timing chest cover and seeing it there is something going on with the tensioner or chain, and will likely do that before delving into the engine proper.
One benefit of pulling the rods to replace the bushes is that it will give m an opportunity to assess big end wear as well. The bike has run like a champ for a few years, and this has all came on fairly quickly, as in a few hundred miles.
Thanks!
John D
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Ah, come on, Tomb.. it was hard to read. I'm just joshin. :smiley:
When posts are written in this manner, I can't be arsed reading them. Simple as that.
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Chuck and Indiana
it's okay I'm housebound for the while so the walls are closing in We both made our Point ,good luck riide safely
TOMB
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I nominate this post for longest run on thread of the year. :smiley:
:1: :grin:
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You guys crack me up - at our most pedantic here, we don't even hold a candle to another of my favorite haunts, the Halfbakery.
One of our mottos is " Think of it as a spellchecker that insults you as well ".
Paragraph breaks are one of my pet peeves - there's even an idea regarding that issue somebody posted there named after me.
SPII (1987, 40,000 miles) - is that true mileage? What is a reasonable expectation for a hard component like that to wear at ? Is there a lot of variables involved (fuel used, oil changes, running temps, etc) ?
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You have to pull the rod. The bushing has to be pushed out so the new one can be pushed in. There's three holes on small end that need to be drilled. This is so oil can you lubricate the wrist pin.
A good machine shop should be able to do that for you. I just had it done at a place in New Haven Connecticut. It cost me a grand total of $24. I supplied the bushing but any good machine shop that helps you, can order the bushing from MG Cycles or other suppliers.
You will need to purchase a brand new wrist pin and the circlips that go in the Pistons. Be careful of the wrist pins. You'll need the kind that has the same wall thickness as what is already in place. This so the balance won't change. The change is when the Cal two engines came out.
TOMB
Edited for grammar and tense.
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It's like we are turning into *The American Reader* :shocked: :laugh:
Dusty
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It's like we are turning into "The American Reader". :shocked: :laugh:
Dusty
Edited.
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SPII (1987, 40,000 miles) - is that true mileage? What is a reasonable expectation for a hard component like that to wear at ? Is there a lot of variables involved (fuel used, oil changes, running temps, etc) ?
Yes, actual mileage. It was bought new from a dealer in SC in 1993 or 4 I think. It has had a few pretty particular owners before my ownership. I can't comment on the "reasonable expectation" due to ignorance on my part, but I suspect that 40,000 is pretty low to have worn wrispin bushings, all things being equal.
JD
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Yes, actual mileage. It was bought new from a dealer in SC in 1993 or 4 I think. It has had a few pretty particular owners before my ownership. I can't comment on the "reasonable expectation" due to ignorance on my part, but I suspect that 40,000 is pretty low to have worn wrispin bushings, all things being equal.
JD
It's possible that the bushings are worn but I would be a bit surprised at that mileage.
If the timing chain is original then that is the most likely cause of mechanical mayhem. Look there before pulling the heads off.
Hunter
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No .... pull the heads off, replace the timing chain, rebuild the transmission ....
Then go to earplugs.
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No .... pull the heads off, replace the timing chain, rebuild the transmission ....
Then go to earplugs.
And remember , the right side will always be louder , unless your bike was built on Tuesday , then the left side will be noisier .
Dusty
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It's possible that the bushings are worn but I would be a bit surprised at that mileage.
If the timing chain is original then that is the most likely cause of mechanical mayhem. Look there before pulling the heads off.
Hunter
And check end float of the camshaft as well...