Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Bobbilljim on November 22, 2017, 05:26:49 PM
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Ok, Here is the really short to get to the meat
84 CALII. Running good before.
Oil Line blew on the highway to LH cylinder. Limped off the road and up a ramp. I'm not sure how long it had been like this as I never got a oil light or noticed any engine changes. A guy behind me complained I was leaking coolant. :violent1:
Got it home an looked around and found the blown oil line. Cleaned the bike up and replaced the oil line. Started it back up just to leak check and shut it back down. Removed the rocker cover to verify oil flow. I also refilled the oil. I was looking under the rocker cover and found a big pile of goo I hadn't notice before where the blanking plug goes that covers the sleeve nut for the head. What's up with that? Anyways, I am going to take the oil pan cover off soon to change the big bearing bushings and the filter. Should I tackle the blank plug goo or leave it be since it seems to be servings its purpose?
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That plug is sealed by an oring or sealing washer. I would investigate . It's not under oil pressure. PO probly stripped it or something.
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Yeah, I'd want to know what that goo is. Silicone? :shocked:
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I am kinda anal about inspecting parts while disassembling. When I tore down my engine recently, I was noticing the hot spots. The head area around the blanking plug and both push rod holes appear to get much hotter than the rest of the head based on the oil stains. The o ring could be baked and bad. It would take a really strong arm to strip the threads, but possible I guess.
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Yeah, I'd want to know what that goo is. Silicone? :shocked:
My best guess is a high temp silicone something. Its not solid like JB weld thank Guzzi but definately cooked.
I am kinda anal about inspecting parts while disassembling. When I tore down my engine recently, I was noticing the hot spots. The head area around the blanking plug and both push rod holes appear to get much hotter than the rest of the head based on the oil stains. The o ring could be baked and bad. It would take a really strong arm to strip the threads, but possible I guess.
Could the sleeve nut have been corroded on maybe and the blank plug threads were damaged while attempting a removal? I'm just wondering if its not worth just replacing the head? That would call for new rings, break in oil and valve grinding I assume?
Attn Luap, sorry I posted this in the wrong place :undecided:
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Most likely nothing wrong just a leaky oring and gooped up to fix, stick an allen in there and pop it loose, use a breaker bar w/swift pull.
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Wish i could know for sure. Does anyone know if the blank screws into the head or the rocker carrier?
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It screws into a hole in the head.
You'll know pretty immediately what the issue is by taking the plug out.
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What's really concerning me is the silicone. That stuff can plug up oil galleries in a heartbeat once it gets loose.
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(http://thumb.ibb.co/bwYUxm/D97300_D0_278_E_4_A82_A13_D_5_E6_D283_B497_E.jpg) (http://ibb.co/bwYUxm)
(http://thumb.ibb.co/hFQyq6/81_E7_D864_8787_425_F_9_F1_A_FC988668_FF78.jpg) (http://ibb.co/hFQyq6)
So here is the goop. It almost reminds me of two part sealant like Chem-Seal or PPG
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The good news is the pushrods are strait and the valves are clean. I remove the con-rod ends today and the journals look really clean. The bushings are worn for sure but no damage. The sizing stamped on the bushing was 000RA. Doesanybody know what that means in terms of size? Could these be undersized?
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I am ordering the standard connecting rod bearings as I cannot find damage to the conrod or journal. I already have assembly lube and plastigauge to verify the sizing. I have all the numbers from the Shop Manual I found on Bender's site. Is there anything else anyone would like to input before I order parts and make the swap? Since I'm in there and ordering parts I figure I might as well swap both sets of bearings even though only one is bad?
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I can’t see the blanking plug at all, looks like goop to replace plug, off with his head, I say.
Gaskets, o rings new plug.
Might be a job getting goop out and undoing sleeve nut
Option b leave for a rainy day, ain’t quite broke just fuggly
Was big end failure after line blew off?
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Right, the blanking plug is either gone or covered. I’m assuming the worst. Eventually the next step is to replace the head (and rings?) gaskets etc. it hasnt been an issue as of yet that i can see. The knocking occured directly as a result of the oil line failure which in fact was the failure of the bearing so im not attributing the big end failure to the goop. I Wonder if that was where you were going with that last question? If not my apologies. As far as getting the goop out i was thinking about a small torch on the goop after getting the engine properly warmed up. I worry about unevenly heating the cyl head?
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Apologies but I haven't read the thread in complete detail
Looks to me like (as you say) no blanking plug, this is an LM 1000 head but you get the picture (sorry for the pun)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/EuaMDoF9B1zEx2BPDoyvj5UMztlQnU1_YLABC6n7C2yjbRZn9X-HazRLrzXLH7SrJPNB35_8lP7jYB4fWhxB6flNl-3y7A0YTjIXDKo2O-ZV7ldXG5ISmhUCmPqm02VNAmgCpnRjBJbRKQxpBY-wu-Lml62-YIVexALDK_C4XKItyce47Mh8Dmyuswcvij7bGxb4piLBNLDSJJ3ReVWwaZEuDVo-CelVYvy_1EySsnat_OWr-dBtgCamFcJW57xH13M5R5jrhJNNBqKgCSTX5dT5pCQHt0iS2i8UO4QgiEklzsxW07-up_HWUY_zepmXUYzlDJTt8qFO5yBwts3sTnG9rALScsUcZUamg3AQq-vOOgsGc3XYRC20y_wbrzXHO5lzfSigjLR-x-rMGIf2rHRQlkyoogNscC6bja-B0kdzGbie-iGZ_EyXEnhrlie_dUCkBiyOVnZycmhweqq_VeR9Ejku1piuItL3VfWB6cB-2Vsn6rNZ60WwkG5UQrYtReh179aByDgqSUSQ-BA4iWeJPZehzxBN9vt4-JLJRrivsIQ5gRdyufxQ3JXMz3VIAa6TRnKePyyE5mXN2YHla6fOYueLgv7KK9zxTBZ1OQ=w1316-h987-no)
I've only stripped 2 engines but on all 4 occasions when removing these plugs they have been (to quote an infamous Mr P Roper) "a complete front bottom" to remove and usually required copious application of heat with a blow torch, to the point where I was worried I would damage the head.
My bet is a PO has totally bodged it stripped the threads and epoxied the offending hole. If it were me I'd get the head off, clean off all that crap and then get it time serted if that's possiple. If not then some other way to get a proper thread in there and have some sort of plug made.
I HATE TO SEE PEOPLE DO THESE THINGS, that said it does not particularly surprise me. Some folks should just not be let anywhere near a wrench.
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:shocked:
It looks like someone sealed it with JB Weld. Maybe they stripped the threads and did that half-baked fix.
Sad.
:violent1:
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That fix is probably in the "Tips" book. :rolleyes: No doubt, as Wayne says, some Gomer butchered the threads and filled it with JB weld.
You can do what you want, but the success of that "repair" depends on the care that Gomer used in prepping the area. When it fails, you are going to have a mess, and there will be no fixing it on the side of the road. Feeling lucky? :smiley: :evil:
At least it's not silicone..
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I HATE TO SEE PEOPLE DO THESE THINGS, that said it does not particularly surprise me. Some folks should just not be let anywhere near a wrench.
As do I. Unfortunately funds are limited so it looks like another missed season :angry: so it goes i guess. Well, at least i know the bottom end will be alright. Hey, im sure there is a theead for it but what oil should i run when im done?
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"Oil? They put oil in at the fact ry, boy. Just top it up when it gets below the low level on the dipstick. "
(Advice given to me by the old man..a horse guy.)
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"Oil? They put oil in at the fact ry, boy. Just top it up when it gets below the low level on the dipstick. "
(Advice given to me by the old man..a horse guy.)
:grin: now thats funny...