Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: dgurovich on November 27, 2017, 03:40:55 PM
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I was able to score a 17,000 mile 850T recently. It has the "upgraded" brake master cylinder in the front when I got it. I have a new starter and solid state relay, LED marker lights installed, and I just put in a set of brand-new Gilardonis. See pix.
Two questions -- is there anything else I should watch out for that might be a known issue?
The old cylinders and pistons are in good shape, no flakes or marks on the bores. Are they worth anything? Fleabay them?
(http://chasingmotorcycles.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/11/850-13.jpg)
(http://chasingmotorcycles.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/11/850-12.jpg)
(http://chasingmotorcycles.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/11/850-11.jpg)
(http://chasingmotorcycles.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/11/850-10.jpg)
(http://chasingmotorcycles.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/11/850-9.jpg)
(http://chasingmotorcycles.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/11/850-8.jpg)
(http://chasingmotorcycles.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/11/850-7.jpg)
(http://chasingmotorcycles.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/11/850-6.jpg)
(http://chasingmotorcycles.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/11/850-5.jpg)
(http://chasingmotorcycles.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/11/850-4.jpg)
(http://chasingmotorcycles.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/11/850-3.jpg)
(http://chasingmotorcycles.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/11/850-2.jpg)
(http://chasingmotorcycles.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/11/850-1.jpg)
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I'm assuming it had chrome bores and you replaced them -- good idea!
Did you check for sludge and chunks in the crank sump? Drain and clean the fuel tank?
I'd check the lube on all the greasable bits and change all the fluids. If you're anal, pull the wire connectors and petro-jelly the terminals. Otherwise the miles seem to be the most neglected thing about it. :thumb:
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The other issue with these bikes is the rubber block that passed for a chain tensioner. It gradually erodes and should be replaced with a slipper-type tensioner. Meanwhile the very fine rubber particles circulate with the oil. The stuff is soft enough that it doesn't damage bearings, and I've never heard of it blocking oil passages, but it does accumulate in the sludge trap. Change the oil frequently, and plan to clean out the sludge trap when you get to around 50,000 miles. You'll want to change to the new-type tensioner by then anyway.
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did you get one with oil filter? early T's didn't have that feature.
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This represents as a pretty early T. I did change the oil and it was spotless. The bike looks to have been maintained quite well. The P.O. obviously loved this bike.
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I wouldn’t get far from home w/o a spare throttle and clutch cable.
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Make sure the head gasket has the oval holes where the push rods go through. They will rub on round ones and eat through the gasket.
Listen and feel for u joint going out. They will give lots of warning.
Rear hub cush rubbers are easy to change.
Can chain tensioner as mentioned.
These are issues mine had when I got it. Unknown mileage
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Looks like a very nice example of the breed.
If you'd be interested, send me a PM with your mailing details and I'll drop a CD in the mail with PDF copies of all the 850-T factory manuals, helpful hints, copies of period ads and articles and a range of other Guzzi information. Shipped anywhere, no charge. Other WildGuzzi members are welcome to the same. I also have CDs for most '70s and '80s Tonti models as well as a few others. Just send me PM and let me know what you'd like.
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Looks very good!
Take care of the seat. They don't make them like that anymore, and the ones they do sell are the Convert/G5 design that will make your sweet T look like a barge.
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I have a brand new Valtec bow style timing chain tensioner I'll sell for $25 shipped in the lower 48.
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I have a brand new Valtec bow style timing chain tensioner I'll sell for $25 shipped in the lower 48.
PM sent.
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PM sent.
It's all yours
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My 2 cents;
replace fuel lines
clean and inspect front and rear wheel bearings, replace if in doubt
strip and clean brake caliper, fit a seal rebuild kit and if the pistons are corroded install an anodized aluminum replacement set, replace pads if in doubt, replace the hydraulic brake lines
inspect the rear brake shoes
check steering head bearings, replace with new tapered bearings if showing signs of wear
clean swing arm bearings, re-pack with grease and replace seals
strip and clean carbs, install a rebuild gasket and O ring kit, set float height
inspect / replace all throttle, choke and clutch cables
replace valve guides and springs, grind valves and seats
install electronic ignition
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replace fuel lines
Including the crossover that can pull loose at the swaged connections and burn up your motorcycle. Use the dual banjos instead.
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Including the crossover that can pull loose at the swaged connections and burn up your motorcycle. Use the dual banjos instead.
Dualing banjos??????? NO THANKS!!! Squeal like a pig ssssooooooooowwwwwe eeeeeee!
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Valves, guides and springs were cleaned and checked. Rockers polished. New fuel lines. I will be draining and cleaning out the brakes over the winter. Using the Brisk Spark Plugs, as they are like the old Golden Lodge, which were absolutely awesome and require no indexing.
Got a Stainless Cycle kit for it as well,
and the seat is -- pristine!
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Really nice bike! :thumb:
Perhaps it would be worth checking the internal filters on the peacocks and clean the tank for rust and other debris? At least mine were clogged and gave poor fuel supply when the tank was close to emptly.
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Those tensioner pieces found their way to the rocker arm shafts and found a home ruining the shafts and rocker bushings.
Tappy valves were not happy.
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Didn't see it mentioned; Head oil lines should be renewed.
As far as ignition goes I'd be in no rush to exchange the original for an aftermarket electronic. 90,000+ miles on my T3 and replaced the points once (out of guilt, not need). Coil / Breaker systems usually don't experience catastrophic failures. Electronics either work well or leave you stranded without warning.
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Find the main ground down under the fuel tank. Clean corrosion and assure solid connections.