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General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Ncdan on February 02, 2018, 09:14:34 AM
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I just got the valves on my 07 calvin after 5k miles. I was going to try it myself but decided to get it done the first time by a pro so I could watch and learn. I�m glad I did because watching it done by a motorcycle mechanic was more simple than trying to go by written directions. My valves were loose on both the exhaust valves, one was around 2 thousandth loose. I couldn�t tell that it ran any better however it was a little quieter. We did use the 4 intake and 6 exhaust. Good thing I ordered the gaskets as both disintegrated upon removal. Guy only charged me 50 bucks but I think I�ll try it myself next Time:)
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It’s really not too bad once you understand the logic. Having the heads sticking out the sides helps...
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I thought the intervals on California was 10k miles? 6k on the Sport.
Anyway, it's pretty easy once you go through it, much easier after seeing someone do it. Get a big socket to rotate the engine from the front and mark one of the fins with a marker at 12 o'clock when "D" is TDC, then the mark will be at 3 o'clock on the "S" side. :thumb:
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I thought the intervals on California was 10k miles? 6k on the Sport.
Anyway, it's pretty easy once you go through it, much easier after seeing someone do it. Get a big socket to rotate the engine from the front and mark one of the fins with a marker at 12 o'clock when "D" is TDC, then the mark will be at 3 o'clock on the "S" side. :thumb:
Thanks for the response lowrider. I’m not sure about the 6 either, I thought that’s what I read in the manual. I hope it is 10k. Maybe someone will clarify this. I am glad I went ahead and checked them as a bought the bike with 5200 miles and I wasn’t sure if they had been checked. The exhaust valves were off (loose) a couple thousands. Mechanic said no danger to the motor but it is much quieter.
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Unless you abuse your motor you shouldn't have to adjust your valves very often. Even if the tappets are a little noisy doesn't mean they are in trouble. That depends on the ambient temp. when the motor is running. I've found unless the ambient is 95F or more my tappets might make a little noise but then quiet down. An important thing is only adjust them when they are cold.
1 time my tappets on my `81 CX100 were all a little noisy @ a Guzzi rally so when I got back home I checked them after 2,000 miles. Sure enough they were all .001" loose. Of course no damage was done. :wink: That was with dino oil. On that bike I adjusted them about every 50K miles. Still have it.
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a little bit loose and loud is good.
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My 1100 Sport had a bit of valve noise when I purchased it. I ran it for a while and then checked it. It had very wide clearances. I think someone set it to 0.01 inch and 0.015 inch instead of 0.1 and 0.15 mm. Over twice what it should have been. I reset it to 0.004 and 0.006 inch and it ran very quietly but it became very fussy at low revs. I reset it to 0.008 and 0.01 inch. (0.2 and 0.25 mm) as advised by raceco. I have left it for as long as 20,000 km with little change in the clearances. I don't baby this engine.
Cheers, voncrump
PS I haven't checked them for almost 20,000km,
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Valve clearance checks on the Vintage are recommended every 10,000 kilometers or 6,200 miles.
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Don't forget if you change the valve settings much , you are changing the breathing of the motor so a throttle body balance should be done also.
That will help with the motor running smooth and reduce "snatchiness" at low speeds.
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Don't forget if you change the valve settings much , you are changing the breathing of the motor so a throttle body balance should be done also.
That will help with the motor running smooth and reduce "snatchiness" at low speeds.
Darren, can you be a little more specific as to how the need to balance the throttle bodies would be noticeable. After the valve adjustment the idle
was the same and I didn’t notice anything different the way it ran before. When idling it shakes like hell anyway :(
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Valves get out of adjustment because of wear and valve stem stretch and such. Same with throttle bodies, stuff wears and cables stretch.
When you change the valve setting you are changing when the valve opens, how much it opens and for how long. Pistons go up and down sucking, compressing and blowing. When the intakes are adjusted the vacuum pulling air through the throttle bodies changes. These changes can make the throttle bodies not balanced and can causes rough running, vibration and different RPMs, and subtle hesitations mostly noticeable at slower speeds/RPMs. Also as your compression goes down over the life of the motor, this can change the TB balance.
In theory, if they are balanced and the valves move, then you put the valves back, there should not be an issue. But nothing is perfect and valves are adjusted to a range in an inexact science. I have always been taught it is a good idea to sync/balance the TBs every time you adjust valves for a proper running engine..
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A little more...
When the valves are put back into spec, they are closer to where the TBs were last balanced. That means the feel will probably be better than before but not as close as it could be. Since this can happen several times through valve adjustments, it just gets worse and worse and for some, the gradual change is not even noticed (you just get used to it).
Might be nice to hear how often the smart fellas around here balance TBs in relation to valve adjustments. Every time, every other, when they feel the need to smooth it out? Eh?
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Standard part of any service/tune. (Shrug.).
On the subject of valve lash adjustment the 2V big block engine, especially if Carburetted, it's unlikely you'll notice much difference if the gaps have changed a couple of thou and are re-set. Not so with the 8V which is the most sensitive big twin I've ever worked on in this respect.
If you're running a closed loop map the ECU will trim around the change to breathing after a while. If you're running an open loop map and you're a couple of thou out it'll run like an absolute dog!
Pete
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Standard part of any service/tune. (Shrug.).
On the subject of valve lash adjustment the 2V big block engine, especially if Carburetted, it's unlikely you'll notice much difference if the gaps have changed a couple of thou and are re-set. Not so with the 8V which is the most sensitive big twin I've ever worked on in this respect.
If you're running a closed loop map the ECU will trim around the change to breathing after a while. If you're running an open loop map and you're a couple of thou out it'll run like an absolute dog!
Pete
I would say this is the definitive answer!
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I rarely have to resynch. my carbs and when I do it's done manualy.
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Ok so am I hearing that’s its unanimous that the TB needs to be checked after every valve adjustment even if the bike runs fine like prior to the adjustment? Keeping in mind that many of us must pay someone for these services. I don’t mind doing so if it’s necessary but if not had just as soon hold off until it is obvious something need fixing.
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Ok so am I hearing that�s its unanimous that the TB needs to be checked after every valve adjustment even if the bike runs fine like prior to the adjustment? Keeping in mind that many of us must pay someone for these services. I don�t mind doing so if it�s necessary but if not had just as soon hold off until it is obvious something need fixing.
As pete said, some models are more critical than others of a poor TB balance. On a new to me bike, I would definitely do it when adjusting valves the first time. Once settled in, maybe check every other time if it seems to stay pretty close, then adjust frequency from there. If you adjust valves and the synch is still pretty much spot on, then logic would tell you it doesn't need to be check every time.
Think of it like oil. When you first get a vehicle, you check the oil often until you get a base line of how frequently you have to add. Then you adjust how often you check it accordingly.
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As pete said, some models are more critical than others of a poor TB balance. On a new to me bike, I would definitely do it when adjusting valves the first time. Once settled in, maybe check every other time if it seems to stay pretty close, then adjust frequency from there. If you adjust valves and the synch is still pretty much spot on, then logic would tell you it doesn't need to be check every time.
Think of it like oil. When you first get a vehicle, you check the oil often until you get a base line of how frequently you have to add. Then you adjust how often you check it accordingly.
Thanks Darren, sounds like sound advice which I will follow