Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: blackbuell on February 06, 2018, 06:08:34 AM
-
The 2007 Norge that I recently purchased still has only 3,300 miles on it. However, based on recommendations from some good folks on this forum, I plan to at least check the condition of, if not replace, the alternator belt. I've conducted searches, but have found no guides for this. My mechanical skills are limited, but if possible, I'd like to try it myself. Anyone aware of a guide for the procedure? Can I get to the belt by merely removing the oil cooler, horn, and the belt cover, or is it necessary to remove the fairing?
Thanks,
Jon
-
Jon, You got it, cooler, horn, cover. Should be OK but look for cracks & age. Should turn 90* for tension. The service manual covers it. Basic stuff, no surprises.
-
Thanks Steve, again!
Jon
-
I just checked my Griso which is similar, there are 5 screws in the cover, one really high up on the LH side, I had to unbolt the ECU to get in there. There's also a mounting bolt that goes through the cover but that doesn't stop you seeing the belt, to replace it would be another story.
My bike has done about 35,000 kM, the belt still looks fine, I think I will get a replacement and just carry it.
I'm guessing it would take up to 4 hours to replace.
Someone will say 15 minutes Haha
-
Harder on the Norge than the Griso because of the cooler's location. I haven't done one for yonks but I'd think you would at least need to take the tank and possibly the airbox out to access the lock bolt for the alternator on the LH side of the chest. I may be wrong there though? Steve?
Pete
-
The adjuster on RH side is behind the coil. I just did one few months back, that had fairing off and I had airbox out to clean TB's.
The 2 screws on top of cover are close to frame but not to bad if just checking, adjusting or changing is easier w/lowers off and the rest of fairing on each side all loose. No need for tank & airbox off, just close quarters in front.
-
If you're flexible, the oil cooler can be set loose from the engine and left connected. Some of the bolts for the plastic cover are hard to get to - you'll need short arm hex keys, or use a hex bit and a small wrench on the back of it. You may find it challenging to get to the tensioning bolt.
The belt should be changed every 3-4 years (based on age) or at about 40,000 miles. Remember that it's in a fairly harsh environment, with fumes, heat, etc. In fact, the only thing it isn't exposed to is ultraviolet! The factory belt is not too outrageous, and the following belts are all very close relatives (some fit slightly better than others):
Alternative to the Guzzi belt is a Gates 4PK740, as well as the following:
Bando Dayco Gates Napa Goodyear Cadna Pix
4PK740 5040290 K040292 25-K040292 4040290 290K4 291K4
Belt is used in 94 Subaru Justy for alternator with no A/C
-
I still have the original belt from my recently departed 2009 Norge; was replaced at 40,000 miles with a Gates belt; old belt looks like new, no obvious signs of wear, no cracks, feels very pliable.
Jon
-
At every even ten thousand k's I take the forks out and replace the fluid.
20,000. 40,000 60,000 etc.
With the front end out it's extremely easy, I replaced mine @ 60,000 and it's (over) due again @ 130,000.
The adjuster for tension is a bit of a fiddle but as mentioned, no surprises.
I'd be leaving it 'till 20,000 were it mine.
-
I still have the original belt from my recently departed 2009 Norge; was replaced at 40,000 miles with a Gates belt; old belt looks like new, no obvious signs of wear, no cracks, feels very pliable.
One never knows, it might be fine. However, rubber can age without changing in appearance, and cracks may be microscopic in size (for now). Since I tend to put on more miles than average, I have set 50,000 miles or four years as my own schedule. I don't want to be trying to change a belt on the side of the road.
If your new machine is a 2007 with so few miles, that belt is now 11 year old or more. Buy yourself some peace of mind for the next few years and put in a new one.
-
At every even ten thousand k's I take the forks out and replace the fluid.
20,000. 40,000 60,000 etc.
With the front end out it's extremely easy, I replaced mine @ 60,000 and it's (over) due again @ 130,000.
The adjuster for tension is a bit of a fiddle but as mentioned, no surprises.
I'd be leaving it 'till 20,000 were it mine.
I concur- same on my Stelvio real easy with nothing in the way....
Mark
-
Checked out the alternator belt yesterday; removed fairing lowers, oil cooler with horn attached to mounting bracket, and plastic belt cover. It was tricky removing the top two belt cover screws. The belt looks and feels like it's brand new: no visible cracks, feels pliable, not dry. I'll leave it for now. However, when trying to put everything back together, I have had one hell of a time getting those top two screws back in without cross-threading them; not much room to move up there. I gave up on trying last night (got too aggravating); will try again today. Any tips?
Jon
-
I use a mini wratchet, came w/allen bits. It's about all that fits up there.
-
Finally got everything reassembled; had to use a short-arm 5 mm hex key; a real pain-in-the-ass; would hate to do this on the road-side, so I will, just to be cautious, replace the belt relatively soon even though it looked fine to my uneducated eyes.
Jon
-
I better inspect my Stelvios, before the great Alaska trip. Just another thing that could break/go wrong! :grin:
-
bobrebos,
How many miles do you have on that Stevio? I hear that it's easier to access the belt on a Stelvio than it is on a Norge. You should eventually start a thread about your Alaska trip.
Jon
-
bobrebos,
How many miles do you have on that Stevio? I hear that it's easier to access the belt on a Stelvio than it is on a Norge. You should eventually start a thread about your Alaska trip.
Jon
Jon: I only have about 9000 miles on the Stelvio so far. My Alaska trip starts early June so Il post some stuff about it to bore everybody!! :bike-037:
-
Checked out the alternator belt yesterday; removed fairing lowers, oil cooler with horn attached to mounting bracket, and plastic belt cover. It was tricky removing the top two belt cover screws. The belt looks and feels like it's brand new: no visible cracks, feels pliable, not dry. I'll leave it for now. However, when trying to put everything back together, I have had one hell of a time getting those top two screws back in without cross-threading them; not much room to move up there. I gave up on trying last night (got too aggravating); will try again today. Any tips?
Jon
Do you use a scissor lift ?
-
bobrebos,
How many miles do you have on that Stevio? I hear that it's easier to access the belt on a Stelvio than it is on a Norge. You should eventually start a thread about your Alaska trip.
Jon
Damn right..
I'll be following that one..
-
Do you use a scissor lift ?
Huzo,
No lift, but my lower back is telling me it's time to get one.
Jon
-
Huzo,
No lift, but my lower back is telling me it's time to get one.
Jon
You'll beat yourself up for not having one for years.. :smiley:
-
Huzo,
No lift, but my lower back is telling me it's time to get one.
Jon
Buggered if I know how I managed.
Everything is easier and more fun, tend not to take short cuts just so I can stand up sooner.
I use mine to clean the bike as well.
You think the bike is dirty when it's up there, but once you've done under the engine, the whole bike looks as clean as a birds arse !
-
Youse guys got me to womdering so went down and checked it out AltBelt on VroomHilda. Not that much fun without a table lift!! Luckily the belt still looks pristine with 20K miles on it, even took iphone close up pics to see even closer blown up close with camera and did the 90 degree turn by hand to check tension.
-
Check it in another 20, then get one to carry in saddle bag till the last mile.
-
Next time I hope to have snagged a table lift or somehow figure out a home made one without giving up a dedicated space in the garage.
I have to say I am pretty impressed with how excellent this belt looks for being in 20K miles and multiple years.
-
The last few I didn't use a lift, just sat on floor. At 71 I'm still flexible.
-
The last few I didn't use a lift, just sat on floor. At 71 I'm still flexible.
That is fabulous Steve keep it up! I get away with peeps thinking I am younger then I am as I still carry a lot of muscle but my past surgeries and long - has changed things for me over the last few years, ** waiting for the holidays to get over to lose about 10 lbs would make it easier!!! * say that all year long about the holidays getting over!!! LOL
-
Here’s my method without a table lift.
(https://i.ibb.co/K5t1Cgh/IMG-3691.jpg) (https://ibb.co/K5t1Cgh)
-
Here’s my method without a table lift.
(https://i.ibb.co/K5t1Cgh/IMG-3691.jpg) (https://ibb.co/K5t1Cgh)
That is a fabulous way, but did you use the engine lift to lower the bike DOWN to the built up blocks resting on the HF hydraulic lift?
-
Yes the chain hoist could lift the whole bike if I strategically strapped up the frame (4straps) as it sits in the pic the hoist is just in case so the bike couldn’t slip/tip off the lift.
That hoist is very useful in many ways. I’ve had a half dozen or more bikes hung from it and even used it to get bikes on and off trailers by myself without fear of a tip over going up/down a ramp.
-
What were you working on to have the bike torn down that far ?
-
Here’s my method without a table lift.
(https://i.ibb.co/K5t1Cgh/IMG-3691.jpg) (https://ibb.co/K5t1Cgh)
Once I get my retirement garage built and setup, a MC table/lift is one of the first things I am buying. Till then, furniture pads on the garage floor..............