Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: spreadeagle on March 21, 2018, 05:04:45 PM
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Does anyone sell bolt kit for valve covers , 2002 special sport?
Thanks
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I buy small quantities locally for a reasonable cost, any good hardware store will be albe to help you out. Stainless Cylce has full cycle bolts sets and they may sell smaller kits, give them a call.
http://www.stainlesscycle.com/presta/21-stainless-motorcycle-kits
Best,
Rob
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Thanks.
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I know you didn't ask, but standard grade stainless allen headed valve cover screws are pretty, but they get chewed up after just a few cycles. They strip out faster if you use ill-fitting tools, and strip really fast if you use ball-headed allen wrenches. They also stretch more than good grade 8.8. I wouldn't use them for valve covers, generator covers, sumps, or anything else that is regularly accessed.
$0.02
That said, for convenience, a well stocked ACE hardware-type chain should have both stainless and grade 8.8 metric available in the hardware bins. If I'm out for more than about six of any sort of hardware like that, I get a box and put the rest in my ever-increasing nuts and bolts stash. If you want a quantity and convenience isn't a priority, FASTENAL will sell you any amount for far less than the hardware stores. They'll order what they don't have and will often deliver orders to your door.
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I know you didn't ask, but standard grade stainless allen headed valve cover screws are pretty, but they get chewed up after just a few cycles. They strip out faster if you use ill-fitting tools, and strip really fast if you use ball-headed allen wrenches. They also stretch more than good grade 8.8. I wouldn't use them for valve covers, generator covers, sumps, or anything else that is regularly accessed.
$0.02
my $0.02=4cents
they can also increase the possibility of stripping out the soft threads in the aluminum head and then you will have to do a helicoil repair just to tighten up a rocker cover.
if you go with stainless bolts don't over strain yourself in torqing them down.
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Ace Hardware?
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Ace Hardware?
Or equivalent. The true value in my area is also well stocked.
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Ace Hardware?
:1: I used to buy them at Ace in Blaine but since then I found a cheaper source locally
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my $0.02=4cents
they can also increase the possibility of stripping out the soft threads in the aluminum head and then you will have to do a helicoil repair just to tighten up a rocker cover.
if you go with stainless bolts don't over strain yourself in torqing them down.
I've been there. The specified torque for these M6 bolts is very low to begin with... not much torque at all.
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How does a stainless steel screw increase the chances of stripping out the "soft" threads in the heads? Maybe if you don't use anti-seize (which should be used with carbon steel screws as well) or you use screws that are too long and drag crud back up through the threads every time they're removed? Otherwise, I see no higher incidence of it happening with stainless. 72 inch/lbs. isn't going to strip them regardless of what material the screw is.
From all the years of working on Guzzis, it seems the original M6 socket head cap screws were the cheapest crap they could source and are quite soft, even compared to stainless A4 70.
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I got a box of like 50 SS screws from McMaster Carr. Probably only cost me at $8. I have used them in the valve covers and sump on Guzzis for over 20 years. Before that, the steel sumps screws would occasionally rust in place and damage the treads. After switching to SS screws, no more damage.
Outrageous. It is now over $9 for 50.
https://www.mcmaster.com/#91292a138/=1c30knp
:boozing:
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I got a box of like 50 SS screws from McMaster Carr. Probably only cost me at $8. I have used them in the valve covers and sump on Guzzis for over 20 years. Before that, the steel sumps screws would occasionally rust in place and damage the treads. After switching to SS screws, no more damage.
Outrageous. It is now over $9 for 50.
https://www.mcmaster.com/#91292a138/=1c30knp
:boozing:
:thumb: :thumb:
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I use SS on most of my LM2 engine and gearbox external fasteners. Never had a pulled thread yet.
Lube and use a torque wrench.
(http://thumb.ibb.co/dLobFS/IMG_0723.jpg) (http://ibb.co/dLobFS)
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Although stainless seems to pull aluminum therads more readily than plated (maybe due to operator overtorque), I think the stripped socket head in the screw is more of a reality than the stripped threads.
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Thanks guys,
I use a torque a wrench. Amazon- $11 for 20 delivered to my door. Who can beat that? Mine be rusty . I change them while I'm setting valves.
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$14.53 for 50 delivered to my door (9.06 for the screws, the rest is shipping).
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I ordered a full set from Stainless cycle the other day. 40 some bucks including shipping. The Mighty Scura took it pretty tough setting by the ocean for a few years, and most fasteners are corroded/rusty. That will be some cheap bling. FWIW, it *does* seem to me that stainless screws tend to want to hold on to aluminum. Why? I dunno, but always use anti seize with stainless.
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I think there are different grades of SS bolts. May be worth looking into. A2 and A4 I believe. It's sort of the equivalent of the grade 8 and grade 10 bolts in steel (or something like that).
I don't use stainless (anymore) because of potential for galling, but that shouldn't happen when the materials are different (bold material and nut/thread material) such as in your case. I do use them still occasionally if that's all I have laying around. I prefer nice black oxide steel bolts for motorcycle stuff, but that's my preference.
SS bolts are nice looking though.
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:1: I used to buy them at Ace in Blaine but since then I found a cheaper source locally
Do you be kindly to share that local supply as I am also a local? :P
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My beemer has the head guards and those screws catch crap so they were seized when I got the bike. I always figure corrosion will go after the less noble metal. So the galvanic chart says Aluminum and Steel are pretty close and should not have too much of a problem. But Stainless Steel and Aluminum are quite far apart, so using a anti seize product seems prudent. Mike
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Yup,
Stainless steel hardware in aluminum is generally a bad idea as they are further apart on the galvanic scale than zinc-plated plain steel and aluminum, and unfortunately the aluminum will lose when the current flows... But of course zinc-plated plain steel screws are subject to plain old environmental rusting, and I don't want brown rusty bolt heads, or eroded and stripped threads either so what to do?
Just use stainless screws and keep environmental moisture out of the threads with your favorite anti-seize compound. Almost anything that will seal and stay put will work, even grease or Loctite depending on how hot the area gets.
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Just use stainless screws and keep environmental moisture out of the threads with your favorite anti-seize compound.
:thumb:
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^^^^^ agreed.
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I've been there. The specified torque for these M6 bolts is very low to begin with... not much torque at all.
+1. Been there, stripped that! :shocked: