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General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: jas67 on April 15, 2018, 10:00:02 PM
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I've read comments on several posts that Simple Green can corrode aluminum.
Is that really true?
My Eldorado had a oil leak at the banjo fitting under the alternator which resulted in my nice clean engine being coated in oil. The banjo nut had come slightly loose after the rebuild, but despite tightening, still leaked. Tightening more didn't work either, which likely caused the crush washers to be over crushed. I've got more crush washers ordered, and also ordered some of the ones with the rubber center to be sure.
I used simple green to get most of it off, but, it is still a little oily. Once I address the offending oil leak, I want to make the outside as clean and oil free as it was after the rebuild, as, we all know, even a little oil residue will attracted dirt and make for a grimy engine.
What is the best degreaser to use that won't harm the aluminum? I use Purple Power degreaser, but, I've seen negative comments on that as well.
I'll likely finish up the clean process with NAPA Aluminum brightener, which Charlie has recommended.
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I've had good results with Awesome Orange , cheap and cheerful . Do keep it away from paint .
Dusty
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I use the same stuff for 40yrs, Gunk engine bright. I used to use stuff made by Triumph before that.
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You don't want to use the NAPA Aluminum Brightener if all you're removing is oil residue, it's an acid and may darken some areas unless rinsed with a pressure washer and I don't think you want to do that. I don't use it until after the part has been thoroughly degreased and cleaned.
I'd recommend first trying MAC's/NAPA Heavy Duty Engine Cleaner & Degreaser 6200:
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/MCF6200
If that doesn't get rid of it all, then Super Clean will take care of the rest.
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NCB101780
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Thanks, Charlie, I knew you'd have the right answer :thumb:
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Simple Green will mess up paint, also.
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This is interesting. I've been using Simple Green for years on aluminum, plastic, painted parts, basically everything and its had no ill effect that I've noticed. I'm not recommending it, given the negative experiences some here have had, but its worked well for me. Its my go to bug cleaner offer and light degreaser.
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Mineral spirits
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Mineral spirits
that's what I use, safe on most plastics, cheap. put it in a spray can which is similar to an oil can but with a spray head. sometimes hard to find, people don't seem to believe they exist. Most hardware stores have them with the oil cans, if they have them. for big jobs I use a siphon sprayer and compressor. It is a solvent so keep it away from bearings and waxed surfaces. its worth mentioning that the correct way to clean machinery is with solvent first, then soap and water. if done with soap first the solvent just sits on top of the soap and doesn't work.
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Aluminum brightener is also excellent finding unprotected steel. Even areas the size of a pin will soon be very visible as it will rust.
Dawn dish detergent, bucket of water and a couple small paint brushes are you friend.
As for Simple Green I don't know if they changed the formula or better detergents have become readily available but the last few times I used it, it was really no more effective in cleaning than soapy water.
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Some Simple Green formulas have 2-butoxyethanol and it can corrode aluminum if it is not thoroughly rinsed. There are a couple of their formulas, however, that are ok.
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Aluminum brightener is also excellent finding unprotected steel. Even areas the size of a pin will soon be very visible as it will rust.
Dawn dish detergent, bucket of water and a couple small paint brushes are you friend.
As for Simple Green I don't know if they changed the formula or better detergents have become readily available but the last few times I used it, it was really no more effective in cleaning than soapy water.
Totally forgot about Dawn. You're right. For really greasey/oily stuff, a little Dawn and a brush is hard to beat.
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>DIESEL or Kerosene and a cheap painting brush .
>Rinse with a Bucket of hot water , dish washer soap , a sponge.
Have fun.
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I agree with all the above. I use mineral spirits or paint thinner first to degrease, then rinse thoroughly with Ettore squeegee off window cleaning soap (very mild to paint) solution and finally rinse with warm water. Makes the paint shine. Jurgen
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Aluminum brightener is also excellent finding unprotected steel.
:smiley: That's a fact, which I learned much to my chagrin. S100 "the total cycle cleaner" is also corrosive it not completely rinsed away.
Stoddard solvent (the same stuff I have in the parts cleaner cabinet) in a Sure Shot sprayer
(http://thumb.ibb.co/n6qtMn/41tfhu7w_BJL_AC_US218.jpg) (http://ibb.co/n6qtMn)
is safe, and handy to use. Super clean in a spritz bottle, then blasted off with an engine cleaning gun and water will do a serious job of grease/grunge removal, too. You can paint over it. (!!)
That's all I have..
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I also discovered that S100 needs to be rinsed rinsed rinsed.
And it's not cheap.
A $10 jug of that Yellow McGuire's car wash soap goes a long, long way when used in a hose-end sprayer and works nearly as well.
AND - shines REALLY NICE.
With the McGuire's - wash, rinse, dry. Looks like it's been waxed.
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S-100 on a dirt bike where I am not worried about some discoloration.
On a street bike, I always start with mild car washing soap. If I have oily stuff that needs to be removed, a rag with gasoline cuts right through it. I have never let buildup get really bad so I have never needed anything more than the rag and gas. Kerosene is too oily, heavy and smelly for me. I have gone so far as to put gasoline into a spray bottle and sprayed some onto a skid pad where a bunch of oil leaked out when I serviced a BMW R1200GS. First tried to wipe with a shop rag but that left way too much oil. I then sprayed a bit of gasoline which of course diluted the heavy oil. I then used another round of gasoline and that got all the oil out. After letting it dry, and gasoline evaporates very quickly, I sprayed the area down with mild car washing soap and rinsed away. You could not tell it was ever there.
I assume that nobody here is stupid enough to have a flame or spark near gasoline vapors. And I did this in the driveway not an enclosed garage.
There are too many times I have needed to get tar of the vehicle or other heavy oil product and gasoline is just cheaper and easier. Some of the spray on contact cleaners work but if they sit around and the lighter materials evaporate you have to buy more. Well between the motorcycles, lawn mower and snow blower, I have plenty of sources for a little gasoline.
NC
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There are too many times I have needed to get tar of the vehicle or other heavy oil product and gasoline is just cheaper and easier.
:shocked:
WD40 takes off tar, etc. pretty well. Cleans wheels, chain goo.. and.. your hands don't smell bad. Oh. Your shed doesn't explode, either.. :evil: :smiley:
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I worked at a large motorcycle dealer and the owner would liberally spray down the new dirt bikes and the used road and dirt bikes with WD40. made them look really good. after I clean a car or truck engine I liberally spray it down with WD40, sure makes them look good. It will gum up a firearm so don't use it there. we pulled out a big round bailer and rats started running out of it. good fun I grabbed a 22 rifle the I had lubricated with WD 40 and it wouldn't fire, it had sat unused for a few months and it gummed up the trigger mechanism. Had to use a shotgun
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^^^^^^ :grin: No, guns and WD 40 aren't a good combination for whatever reason. There is *some* lubricity with WD 40, but not much..