Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Huzo on April 21, 2018, 05:14:04 AM
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Since day dot, I have done my oil changes on 10,000 k intervals and used Motul 10/60 in the engine and Motul 80/90 in the transmission and bevel drive.
I've always had Motul 80/90 with Molycote and the gearbox shifts like my old Suzuki Bandit (lovely).
Trouble is I'm finding it more difficult to source the Molycote product here in Oz.
Have others noticed the availability starting to diminish ?
This time I had to use 80/90 HD and I wish I didn't have to.
(https://thumb.ibb.co/kKuCMn/IMG_0776.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kKuCMn)
New on the left, old on the right.
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I'll talk about it.
I've always used "Agip" 10W60 oil in the Stelvio, and then "ENI" when the company changed over.
But when I went to order some "ENI" 10W60, it was over $20 a quart, and that's just highway robbery.
So, since the manual says "Any quality 10W60 meeting standard 'SG' ", I ordered 4 liters of Motul 7100 for the upcoming oil change, $12/liter. Still a lot of money, but not out of line with other low-volume-production, high-quality oil. They're up to "SN" now, I think, but it's all backward-compatible.
Lannis
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Here we go.. :evil:
7100 is clearly labeled SG. Smells nice, too. SN oils are not necessarily backward compatible.. if it doesn't say SG on the jug, it's not.
<whistling>
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Everybody talks about oil but no one is doing anything about it!
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I went and spoke to the local company here that blends whatever oil mineral you like with Agip specifications for the bevel/gear box to see if they could match them.
The advice I received that it wasn't anything special and they were running it in trucks with galactic miles
YMMV
Tris
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Here we go.. :evil:
7100 is clearly labeled SG. Smells nice, too. SN oils are not necessarily backward compatible.. if it doesn't say SG on the jug, it's not.
<whistling>
All righty then. It DOES say 'SG', so that's good .... But the API website (and they're the ones who define these things) says that SN oil is backward compatible all the way back to SA ("For automotive gasoline engines, the latest engine oil service category includes the performance properties of each earlier category. If an automotive owner's manual calls for an API SJ or SL oil, an API SM oil will provide full protection".) :popcorn: <shrugs> <whistles> <hands in pocketses>
Lannis
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Some of the Guzzi Riders here in Ontario/Canada use 10w/60 LiquiMoly, available from Amazon.
(https://thumb.ibb.co/cem9KH/images_2.jpg) (https://imgbb.com/)
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But..
As Lenny Kravits said..
"What I REALLY wanna' know is"
Can the one on the right labelled "gear box", still be procured easily in the 'States or UK..?
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Bearing vendors should have Dow Corning "M" gear guard. It's the real stuff in concentrate . 30 bucks American for a liter is a good price.
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Anybody else here recall the thread from years back about the Bay Area riders who were using corn oil in their rear ends? I can't be the only one!
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Anybody else here recall the thread from years back about the Bay Area riders who were using corn oil in their rear ends? I can't be the only one!
Bwaaaaaaahhhhhhaaaa aaa !!!
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All very informative I'm sure..
But.
Again, is the stuff in the black bottle labelled "gear box", still available in the 'States and U.K..?
Personally, I don't mind if y'all put distilled cat's piss in the gearbox and bevels of your beloved bike.
You see, it's just that I've fallen in love with the other stuff.
Well.. it's not really love, in the purest sense..
More like a schoolboy crush.
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I'm finding it more difficult to source the Molycote product here in Oz.
I bought some 99% pure molybdenum disulfide powder years ago from eBay. I've added a pinch or two to my final drive oil on every bike I've had when changing the oil. Voila, now I don't have to worry about buying it with the additive already in it. Not to mention the powder is good to have around for lots of other things needing lubed up. It's some slippery stuff. The "most slippery thing on the planet" they say.
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I bought some 99% pure molybdenum disulfide powder years ago from eBay. I've added a pinch or two to my final drive oil on every bike I've had when changing the oil. Voila, now I don't have to worry about buying it with the additive already in it. Not to mention the powder is good to have around for lots of other things needing lubed up. It's some slippery stuff. The "most slippery thing on the planet" they say.
Every work over rig , or main drilling rig has the stuff in buckets on site . No idea why folks think moly is some rare hard to find substance .
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So, since the manual says "Any quality 10W60 meeting standard 'SG' ",
Just for clarification:
"As an alternative to the
recommended oils, you can also use brand
name oils with performance that meets or
exceeds the CCMC G-4 A.P.I. SG standards."
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Just for clarification:
"As an alternative to the
recommended oils, you can also use brand
name oils with performance that meets or
exceeds the CCMC G-4 A.P.I. SG standards."
Technically, I wonder if the "or exceeds" part is really necessary, not just here but in any spec. "Exceeds" implies "meets" every time, I think. I was never a technical writer at work, so I don't know if that's a "term of art" or just boilerplate.
Kev m does this stuff for a living still, maybe he'd know "why"?
Lannis
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Technically, I wonder if the "or exceeds" part is really necessary, not just here but in any spec. "Exceeds" implies "meets" every time, I think. I was never a technical writer at work, so I don't know if that's a "term of art" or just boilerplate.
Kev m does this stuff for a living still, maybe he'd know "why"?
Lannis
Generically it is an interesting topic, but specific to CCMC G-4 A.P.I. it is very interesting given the debate about using only SG rated oils in our air cooled beasts.
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What I want to know is, why do we need to put moly in the rear drive?