Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: dxhall on July 19, 2018, 09:54:13 PM
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As part of the planning for my Big Alaska Trip, I purchased an 84 BMW R100RS a few months ago. I thought it would be a simple, reliable bike that would be reasonably comfortable on a three week trip.
I have been riding it to work for a couple weeks now and I am not getting it. It is hot, pretty slow, and not all that comfortable. There seem to be a lot of riders who love these old airheads, though. What am I missing?
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A thousand mile round trip .
Dusty
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you're right, it's junk......can I have it? :grin:
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Sounds like it's not for you. That happens sometimes. Swap it out. There's plenty looking for one.
Dusty needs one, it goes down the road, and no wrenching.
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Sounds like it's not for you. That happens sometimes. Swap it out. There's plenty looking for one.
Dusty needs one, it goes down the road, and no wrenching.
I can't reach the hand grips on an RS anymore :sad:
'84 is a good year , last of the big valve big carb 1000's . If it feels slow either you aren't letting it rev or something is wrong with it . That generation 1000 had such a flat torque curve they feel slower than they really are .
Dusty
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And if you feel it's hot, likely you are in city, stop and go. Don't think you'll be doing much of that on your way to Alaska.
At least I hope not, for your sake.
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I've never been very impressed with the performance of early boxers. Then you have a 35 year old bike to consider.
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It is a Last Edition model with the single seat. Looks cool. I am thinking sell and look for a Guzzi SP.
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Yup,you don't need to put yourself through that misery. I'll arm wrestle Yogidozer over it :evil:
Paul B :boozing:
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I wouldn't think the RS would be a good choice for an Alaska trip. The RS is a paved highway machine good for 90 all day long. There are guys who ride them fast on gravel roads, but the fairing mounts tend to break tack welds if bounced around very much. I'd think the biggest difficulty would be the narrow bars on muddy or rough gravel roads. And then there's the ergos - a lot of guys can't handle the leaned-forward position. If it's not for you, the bars can be raised slightly, but that's about it. You're pretty well locked into that position.
And, yes, it can be hot. In the cold and wet that's a big plus. I even rode mine in 100 degrees on I-5 heading to Los Angeles. When it gets that hot, it's best keeping the wind off of you - the opposite of wind-chill comes into play. Good boots will keep the heat off your feet, and a cordura riding suit with all the vents open will help with evaporative cooling a wetted-down T and jeans. But it's best when the weather turns nasty - fog, rain, cold - that's when you grow to love the RS.
Like GuzziSteve said, the airheads are mild mannered and tend to roll along much faster than it seems. I think it's a combination of how tall they are, the soft suspension, wide power band, quiet exhaust note and smoothness.
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I don't know too much about the r100, but my kid has been all over Alaska and Western Canada on his r80/7. It keeps up with me just fine.
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Having ridden in Alaska, The Yukon, Top of The World Hwy, and the AlCan to Mile Post Zero, as well as owned an R100RS, and several GS airheads, I’d add the RS would be the Most Likely I’d ride in the Alps and Least Likely to ride to Alaska. Sell the RS.
Safe journey,
DC
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The ARE slow; they barely crack 100 MPH in the quarter, something V6 Honda Accords and Camrys--and all sorts of other family cars--now does, and they won't push past 125 MPH. They only have around 55 HP at the rear wheel, and weigh 500 Lbs. And the handling is a few decades past SOTA. They are now 40 years old and based on even older designs--ancient in MC terms. You have to want a vintage experience to love them. I do, but, old bikes are now more my thing.
Why not a Norge 8V that beats any RS to death in every respect?
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hmm
rode one for a year
the riding position is strange to me, with not much wriggle room.
I was thinking mine was slow until I found out they're just deceptive, you can scare the ---- out of yourself (and pillion) by ripping open the throttle in 2nd gear. Ask me how I know.
and the fairing is incredible!
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Wirespokes said it very well. Ergonomics, fairing, make it good for long stretches in cooler climes but it does handle twisties well. If I was determined to ride an airhead to Alaska I would choose a /6, preferably an R90 but the R75/6 is also a good machine. Enough power to get the job done, decent enough brakes, and light enough to pick up when you fall.
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You may want to consider an R100GS (1988 - 1995) if you want to travel in relative comfort on an older BMW. Approx range is 185-200 miles per tank. They are not without known issues.
- Driveshaft failure. Many as low as 30,000 miles. Mine made it for 122,000 miles. You'll be buying a used bike, of course, since the last of the airhead GS bikes was the 1995 model. Find out if replaced and at what mileage. And if a new oem one was installed or rebuildable aftermarket one from Ted Porter Beemershop.
- I got along fine with the 280W charging system, but I ran only stock lights, and heated grips and sleeveless electric vest if required. And I wasn't slogging at slow speed over bad roads, but running hour after hour between 4000 and 5500rpm. Of course, with $$, anything is possible. Aftermarket systems are available that nearly double output.
- Alternator rotor. Factory one failed at 90,000. Aftermarket rotor failed 40,000 miles later.
- Diode board. Carrying aftermarket rotor and diode board would be relatively cheap insurance. Couple hundred bucks.
- There are better starter motors available than the Valeo that came on the bike. Motorrad Elektrik and another company or two offer better starters that draw less current.
- I've been running a 26ah battery for 4 years, and it has worked well.
Oh, and before you buy one, see if you can easily deploy the side stand. There's a reason some call it Hitler's Revenge.
You may enjoy this short video showing Tiffany Coates taking her R80GS around the world a few years back. R80 not available in States, but the 80 and 100 are identical aside from displacement.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SCaCl-G3RFg
(https://thumb.ibb.co/gGUMtd/Hudson_to_Montana_2009_034.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gGUMtd)
Here's my old gal, halfway
through trip out west in 2009.
Headed toward Cody WY via
Beartooth Pass
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I am sure you could do it, but as others recommended, a modern dual-sport bike would be more appropriate.
Here is my old 1978 BMW R100RS "Motorsport Edition."
(https://thumb.ibb.co/gyPtod/1978_BMW_R100_RS_020.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gyPtod)
(https://thumb.ibb.co/jv6juJ/1978_BMW_R100_RS_021.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jv6juJ)
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For years I thought the RS was about the second coolest bike around, after my LeMans. Then I rode one. Same impression of some here is they are cramped with not much wiggle room. Also having owned an RT boxer they are hot. The fairing funnels all the hot air right into your chest. No fun in the summer time. Right after riding the RS I rode an R90S. Totally different experience. Cooler, smoother, and easier to handle with the wider bars.
That said a dual sport is what you would want for this trip.
If you do decide to take this bike, remove the lowers. It will be cooler for you and also cooler for the diode board. I use to carry a spare diode board and ignition canister(later hall effect breaker).
Pete
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Another vote for an 88-95 R100GS. In addition to being better on rough roads they are also a better functioning sport bike than many other bikes, including earlier boxers like the R100RS. An excellent machine for everything except continuous 90 mph autobahn use (although they will do it). The problem today is finding s nice one in the US.
The RS was mostly a styling exercise. It does look great and the fairing is good at high speed on a cold, wet day, but overall you could make a better bike of an RS by removing the fairing and converting it to an R100S. Nobody would do that today but I knew people who did in the past, often after crashes, and never looked back.
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I've taken a couple of long trips with mine. The longest being about 1700 miles round trip and about 3 weeks long. I am just shy of 6'-0" tall and I believe that trip was what precipitated a torn meniscus in my right knee. That trip was also the reason for buying the EV. I don't think I would ever take the RS on a trip to Alaska. Do as others have said and find a nice GS if your stuck on BMW. If not, there are plenty of other more capable motorcycles for that trip. Save your knees. :laugh:
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It is a Last Edition model with the single seat. Looks cool. I am thinking sell and look for a Guzzi SP.
In Pearlescent White?.....beautiful bike!
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If I were riding to Alaska I would consider a VStrom or Versus, something along those lines, newer, cheaper, better performance, more reliable. I wouldn't make this trip based on styling or nostalgia.
Of course, I probably wouldn't consider that ride.
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A thousand mile round trip .
Dusty
It was 8060 km for me, thats 5,000 miles starting from Vancouver BC
I think an old beamer would be fine on most roads, the Dempster and Top of the World not so much.
Just do it!
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If anyone is interested, I know where there's a '94(?) R100GS that's for sale.
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If I were riding to Alaska I would consider a VStrom or Versus, something along those lines, newer, cheaper, better performance, more reliable.
I like both those bikes but I think a lot of people have shown that an old R80 or R100GS is very good, probably functionally better for the job than those newer bikes.
It's the combination of surprisingly good performance (in many conditions) and stone axe simplicity.
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Simple doesn't mean unbreakable though and while many items can be fixed on the road, some may require a new part which if you don't have it with you in the middle of nowhere means you are stuck.
How many miles on the bike? At some point some parts are nearing end of life. Case in point I had the rear clutch lever on my RT break 100 miles from home. Not far but no way I could ride it and too far to walk. In this case I got a ride home with a friend to get my truck. Another time the rivets that hold the spline on the rear hub to the wheel sheared off (Twin Shock Bike). This time it was a 200 mile ride to get the truck.
Pete
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It is hot, pretty slow, and not all that comfortable.
I've never bought a bike in my life that was "comfortable" when I bought it. I change all of them - footpegs, handlebars, fairings, grips, and/or the seat.
There's no way that the ergonomics and physical characteristics of design-mule/test-rider Helmut or Giacamo or Mitsui or Bubba or Cyril are going to be the same as yours, so get to unbolting and bolting and padding and re-gripping and make it YOURS! :thumb:
Lannis
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Lannis
I have a Stelvio and find it very comfortable in the stock form.
I’m 6’1”, 225, 33inseam and longer arms that most at my height.
Interested in what ergo changes you made to Stelvio, outside of the seat.
And which changes were the most impactful.
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Simple doesn't mean unbreakable though and while many items can be fixed on the road, some may require a new part which if you don't have it with you in the middle of nowhere means you are stuck.
How many miles on the bike? At some point some parts are nearing end of life. Case in point I had the rear clutch lever on my RT break 100 miles from home. Not far but no way I could ride it and too far to walk. In this case I got a ride home with a friend to get my truck. Another time the rivets that hold the spline on the rear hub to the wheel sheared off (Twin Shock Bike). This time it was a 200 mile ride to get the truck.
Pete
FWIW my R100GS has 103K very hard miles and has never left me stranded. It’s come close a few times :laugh: but generally the bike has given enough warning to allow maintenance before failure.
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If anyone is interested, I know where there's a '94(?) R100GS that's for sale.
Depending on the money and condition I'm interested. Do tell.
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FWIW my R100GS has 103K very hard miles and has never left me stranded. It�s come close a few times :laugh: but generally the bike has given enough warning to allow maintenance before failure.
I had 220K on mine. Unexpected failures started around 125K. Actually the first unexpected failure came at around 15K, melted diode board but I was able to limp along to a dealer. Then there were the melted valve seats ('83 model) but there was ample warning.
Pete
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If anyone is interested, I know where there's a '94(?) R100GS that's for sale.
The R100GSs are still fairly easily available, it's just that the prices have gone thru the roof.
That said, I also might be interested.
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Lannis
I have a Stelvio and find it very comfortable in the stock form.
I�m 6�1�, 225, 33inseam and longer arms that most at my height.
Interested in what ergo changes you made to Stelvio, outside of the seat.
And which changes were the most impactful.
Russell Day-Long seat
New rear suspension (1" lower) and 105 lb/in springs on the front
Front tubes lowered 1" in the clamps.
Lowered passenger pegs.
Smaller hand grips.
Taller windshield.
It all sort of "goes together" now!
Lannis
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Find you a used V Storm and enjoy the trip on a bike that was designed for that type of ride.
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If anyone is interested, I know where there's a '94(?) R100GS that's for sale.
More details forthcoming, but here's a "teaser" photo the owner sent me.
(https://thumb.ibb.co/gMYqKJ/BMW_R100_GS.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gMYqKJ)
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You can’t :Beating_A_Dead_Hors e_by_liviu the 650 vstrom—sp two would also work🛵
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You can�t :Beating_A_Dead_Hors e_by_liviu the 650 vstrom�sp two would also work🛵
What?
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If I were riding to Alaska I would consider a VStrom or Versus, something along those lines, newer, cheaper, better performance, more reliable. I wouldn't make this trip based on styling or nostalgia.
Of course, I probably wouldn't consider that ride.
Not the point.
Your Grandma could do it on a V Strom. It's about fulfilment of a desire, not making it artificially easy.
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More details forthcoming, but here's a "teaser" photo the owner sent me.
(https://thumb.ibb.co/gMYqKJ/BMW_R100_GS.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gMYqKJ)
I am interested, for a good friend who just moved to northern AZ, and is looking for a cool dual-sport as well!! :thumb: :cool: Please keep me posted!
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Not the point.
Your Grandma could do it on a V Strom. It's about fulfilment of a desire, not making it artificially easy.
" fulfillment of desire a desire " is in the eyes of the beholder:)
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Find you a used V Storm and enjoy the trip on a bike that was designed for that type of ride.
That totally makes sense. Not on a 30 year old bike that is expensive to boot. Save your money, get there on a reliable bike that will run circles around an old Beemer.
:thumb:
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Not the point.
Your Grandma could do it on a V Strom. It's about fulfilment of a desire, not making it artificially easy.
Grandma's mosquito bitten carcass wasn't eaten by a Brown Bear.
But whatever fulfills ya .....
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Not the point.
Your Grandma could do it on a V Strom. It's about fulfilment of a desire, not making it artificially easy.
Agreed! I had a later oilhead Beemer in the garage before setting out on a 5000 mile ride. But after some consideration, I decided I'd enjoy the ride more on the old airhead GS. And be more comfortable to boot! They're damned good old bikes.
But to be totally honest, I bought the GS when it was new (1991.) It was reputed then to be an excellent long distance ride. So, I took owners in the early 1990s at their word, and began using the GS for most all of my longer trips. Never sorry for that decision. And over the years, the GS has remained my ride of choice whenever I'm headed out for a several day ride.
This is not to say I didn't have a really great ride out West on my 2008 1200 Guzzi Sport in 2011. Another great mile eater that put a lot of fun into the ride!
Guess I love my twins, flat or v.
Bob
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Not the point.
Your Grandma could do it on a V Strom. It's about fulfilment of a desire, not making it artificially easy.
Uh oh, be careful. For everyone who will go to Alaska on a Honda CL-175 and thumb his nose at the V-Strom wimp, there's a guy who's done it on a Velo-Solex and thinks the CL-175 guy is riding a luxury yacht.
And so on. Although there aren't many "so on"s beyond a Solex ....
Lannis
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More details forthcoming, but here's a "teaser" photo the owner sent me.
(https://thumb.ibb.co/gMYqKJ/BMW_R100_GS.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gMYqKJ)
Charlie, what's a location on this GS?
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Charlie, what's a location on this GS?
Roughly the same location as this bear. :wink:
(https://thumb.ibb.co/fnnZDd/bear.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fnnZDd)
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Not trying to beat anyone to the punch, just wanted to know a rough, general location.
That affects a lot of folks, like me, as to whether they might still be interested or not...
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Not trying to beat anyone to the punch, just wanted to know a rough, general location.
That affects a lot of folks, like me, as to whether they might still be interested or not...
You're a mere 155 miles from it. Until I get the owner's okay to release more information, that's all you get. :grin: Instead of causing further thread drift, PM me or just send an email.
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I think the particular bike you take is a pretty important part of a ride like Alaska. After all, if you just wanted to get to Fairbanks, you could fly Alaska Air and save yourself a lot of trouble.
I am not one of those guys who wants to say that he rode a Vespa from LA to Deadhorse, but I do not think a reliable appliance sort of bike would be a very satisfying experience for me. I think my plan will be to give the R100 a fair try as I look for a Guzzi SP.
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I agree the GS would be a better choice, and I love my RS. Even better would be a GSPD with the 9 gallon tank. The tank and fairing provide good wind protection as well.
As a counterpoint to taking a new (or newer) bike that's more powerful, stops better and rides better and all that - I'd rather take something I enjoy riding. Something I can fix when problems surface. Something that won't leave me waiting for a tow. Something that doesn't depend on electronics to function.
I knew a guy who traveled all over the planet and had something like 7 R100GSs planted in different countries. Each one had a driveshaft strapped to the handlebar cross bar. They all had spare parts just in case. Sure, anything can break and you'd think an older bike with 100K on the clock wouldn't be a good choice, but you're wrong. They'll keep on running just like the old Guzzis. Treat them decently and they last forever - or wear out very slowly and tell you something needs help long before it fails.
Another thing on the RS - it's not really comfortable for tall or big people. I even have trouble with the left side lower fairing hitting my knee on it. it wore a hole in my aerostich knee ballistics in a week. I'm 5'10" just for reference.
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You're a mere 155 miles from it. Until I get the owner's okay to release more information, that's all you get. :grin: Instead of causing further thread drift, PM me or just send an email.
"THREAD DRIFT!!!" :laugh: :grin: :wink:
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I agree the GS would be a better choice, and I love my RS. Even better would be a GSPD with the 9 gallon tank. The tank and fairing provide good wind protection as well.
As a counterpoint to taking a new (or newer) bike that's more powerful, stops better and rides better and all that - I'd rather take something I enjoy riding. Something I can fix when problems surface. Something that won't leave me waiting for a tow. Something that doesn't depend on electronics to function.
I knew a guy who traveled all over the planet and had something like 7 R100GSs planted in different countries. Each one had a driveshaft strapped to the handlebar cross bar. They all had spare parts just in case. Sure, anything can break and you'd think an older bike with 100K on the clock wouldn't be a good choice, but you're wrong. They'll keep on running just like the old Guzzis. Treat them decently and they last forever - or wear out very slowly and tell you something needs help long before it fails.
Another thing on the RS - it's not really comfortable for tall or big people. I even have trouble with the left side lower fairing hitting my knee on it. it wore a hole in my aerostich knee ballistics in a week. I'm 5'10" just for reference.
Its an '84 so it does have electronics and they do fail at a higher than normal rate. Diode boards melt, hall pickup ignition canisters die and alternator rotors open up. I carried all three when on a trip.
I have ridden old tech most of my life. Even rode my Norton 8800 miles in a month across country. They can make the trip but don't leave with the illusion that because its a BMW it won't break and won't leave you stranded if you aren't prepared.
My reason for not recommending this particular bike is its not particularly comfortable and the narrow bars are less than useless when the pavement becomes rough or non existent. There may be poorer choices but I can't think of many.
Pete
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The Bosch alternator/rectifier/regulator system used on BMWs is the same as that used on Guzzis, so I imagine many on the WG site are familiar with the system. Both my 100K mile LeMans and my 102K mile R100GS are on their original rectifier (what BMW people call a diode board). Both are on their second rotor. The Guzzi for some reason needed a set of alternator brushes at around 90K miles, the BMW is still on its first set as I remember.
I've had no ignition problems with my '90 GS to date, nor on my previous '88 or '92. Seems to be bulletproof, at least for 28 years of use. The original Bosch spark plug caps were as bad as they were on Guzzis, and installing NGK plug caps is the simple 5 minute solution.
I dislike much of what BMW has produced over the years, and ever moreso today. There is no question that I'd buy a new Suzuki DL over a new BMW GS and I agree that an R100RS is probably the worst bike you could choose for a trip to Alaska due to the handlebar and fairing setup. Regardless, an airhead GS is IMHO the best choice, particularly in pre-91 form. It's the most practical any road, anywhere motorcycle ever made IMHO. The front brake is the only thing I'd upgrade if buying another one today.
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Guzzi made an intelligent choice when they placed the diode board away from the engine. BMW put theirs in an oven. For the PO, BMW later spec'd the diode board with high temp solder. It can be identified by the use of black paint on the backside. While you are in there make sure the three spade connector that connects to diode board to the alternator has tight connectors and there is no signs of corrosion. A source of poor charging.
As for reliable old hulks, its hard to beat of Guzzi of similar vintage. I would have no qualms taking my '76 LeMans on this trip if my wrists could handle the miles which they can't. OTOH a T3 or G5 would be no problem.
Pete
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All it really takes is more Kool-Aid and propeller. DAR, R3~
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More details forthcoming, but here's a "teaser" photo the owner sent me.
(https://thumb.ibb.co/gMYqKJ/BMW_R100_GS.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gMYqKJ)
I had airhead boxers for years, and they were all supremely capable for 600+ mile rides!
(https://thumb.ibb.co/iKNSJd/Bumblebee.jpg) (https://ibb.co/iKNSJd)
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The Bosch alternator/rectifier/regulator system used on BMWs is the same as that used on Guzzis, so I imagine many on the WG site are familiar with the system. Both my 100K mile LeMans and my 102K mile R100GS are on their original rectifier (what BMW people call a diode board). Both are on their second rotor. The Guzzi for some reason needed a set of alternator brushes at around 90K miles, the BMW is still on its first set as I remember.
I've had no ignition problems with my '90 GS to date, nor on my previous '88 or '92. Seems to be bulletproof, at least for 28 years of use. The original Bosch spark plug caps were as bad as they were on Guzzis, and installing NGK plug caps is the simple 5 minute solution.
I dislike much of what BMW has produced over the years, and ever moreso today. There is no question that I'd buy a new Suzuki DL over a new BMW GS and I agree that an R100RS is probably the worst bike you could choose for a trip to Alaska due to the handlebar and fairing setup. Regardless, an airhead GS is IMHO the best choice, particularly in pre-91 form. It's the most practical any road, anywhere motorcycle ever made IMHO. The front brake is the only thing I'd upgrade if buying another one today.
Tusayan, you indicated your preference for a pre-1991 GS. I'm guessing you have issues with the PD style fairing. There's not much else that's different between pre 91 and 91 onward (at least as far as I know ..... though I've never owned any GS other than my 1991 model.)
Bob
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Tusayan, you indicated your preference for a pre-1991 GS. I'm guessing you have issues with the PD style fairing. There's not much else that's different between pre 91 and 91 onward (at least as far as I know ..... though I've never owned any GS other than my 1991 model.)
Bob
I'm very curious about the pre-'91 statement as well. I've had several other, older Airheads, but am certainly no expert on the GS models, and am interested to learn of any differences between the earlier and later models. I'm always keeping my eyes open for a nice R100GS, although their prices have become outrageous lately. Don't even think of picking up a clean R80G/S, unless you're willing to raid the 401(k) or put a lien on your house! :shocked:
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The single speedo on the earlier bikes is very reliable and the fairing is lighter and more practical. FWIW, the instruments on '91-on GSs tend to fail (e.g. wild needle wobble) in my experience, often at around 20K miles. Its been a long time and I've forgotten whether it's the speedo or tachometer that's the main issue. For mainly that reason after owning an '88 and a '92 I was happy to end up with a '90.
A disadvantage of the earliest paralever bikes is that the early GS labeled seat had poor quality foam, but that is easily updated. Also, the later frame mounted fairing and low fender does slightly increase high speed stability, but not enough to matter to me... again in my experience, YMMV and all the rest :laugh:
It's darn near impossible to find a clean, low mileage R100GS in the US, it seems they've all been ridden hard for years. In Germany you can find nice one much more easily, they have a cult (kult? :grin:) following and winters are long, limiting mileage. But they are even more expensive there.
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I would have to agree that the simpler front bodywork (or lack of)would make it easier to aim the headlight and change headlight bulb, and there'd be less chance of breaking plastic in the event the bike was dropped. I'm not sure how much wind protection I gain from the small windshield. With the screen pivoted to its rearward position, it's more like a short touring fairing, and that's how I position mine. It probably helps some, at speed. I ran most of I-80 across Nebraska between 5500 and 6000rpm, and it was fairly relaxing.
Re the speedo, the needle on mine does wobble around a bit, maybe moving between 55 and 60 at 60mph. Been doing it for years, but would prefer it didn't do it.
If I had the opportunity to buy either a 90 or 91 in similar condition, I'd probably go for the 90 this time around, with 91 saddle.
I've got mine scheduled with a good independent BMW tech for new petcocks, carb rebuild, tranny bearing replacement, replacement of some worn shift components (nylon roller that tracks the shift cam, and spring that keeps tension on it,) driveshaft replacement, and whatever else he notices. Mileage 155,870. Original drive shaft u joints went at 122k, had them replaced, but 33k later, I'm noticing what feels like u joints going again. Oh well, the shaft repair was less than $250.00, so I was able to extract another couple of seasons out of the original shaft.
Ironically, I found the stock saddle on my 91 more comfortable than the aftermarket Corbin, so when the foam in the original finally turned to mush, I bought one of the last original equipment black and yellow saddles from Germany
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Surprised no one mentioned the MG Quota. Holds all your camping/fishing gear. Few minor updates, and you're good to go.
(https://thumb.ibb.co/hmWory/mgq.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hmWory)
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I'm not familiar with the MG answers to the GS and was wondering about that possibility.
As for the comment of wanting a pre 91 GS, it's more than fairing or seat foam (I know nothing about that), or the speedometer.
I've been repairing airhead speedometers for ten years now so can tell you there's no real difference between any of the GS speedos or even the earlier ones. They've all got the same basic mechanism. If the needle wavers that much but is a relaxed sort of wobbling around, it's probably due to the damping fluid migrated away. The movements are pretty sensitive, and just like your multimeter, if it gets bumped, the needle moves. It's when the needle has a ragged jerky movement to it, or makes screechy noises, time to disconnect the cable. Bad stuff is imminent!
The tachs are all electronic on the GS - the G/S didn't have one, although a small one was available special order. I rarely hear of a tach going bad - if there are problems, it's usually connections or some issue with the ignition. However, if something does go haywire in the tach, it can kill the ignition - cause it to fail or not operate - one thing to keep in mind.
There were two versions of the GS - 88-90 and 91-95. In 1989 the PD first appeared with the 9 gallon tank and different gauges arrangement - Large speedo on the left, small tach and clock on the right. The basic GS stayed the same with the one large speedo - same front bodywork and gauges as the R80G/S. The PD continued through to 95, and from 91 on, it had a large tach on the right instead of the small tach and clock.
There were small changes as the years progressed from 88 to 95, but the biggest (in my opinion) is the electrical system. It got the wiring and controls from the K bikes - more complex turn signals, though easier to use, handle bar switches that wouldn't interchange with the earlier airheads, only the Ks and new 1100s. A load shed relay (the system that turns everything off when the engine is being started) that can make trouble shooting extremely difficult. It's a really expensive complicated relay costing a hundred bucks or more. It's one of those things that should really be re-done. Get rid of all the complicated wiring generated by the absence of a light switch, and the German affliction of solving issues before they ever surfaced (and never would) creating unimaginable complications.
The pre 91 electrical systems aren't exactly simple, but nothing like the ones that followed.
The pre 91 GSs had plated spokes that can rust after a while, the newer ones are stainless.
I've had both the early and late model GSs - right now have a red 1990 PD and a yellow 93 PD. Love em both. Rode the 93 to the 90S rally in PA a couple years ago (3?) and I think it's a better RT than the RT. Did 3.000 miles in slightly over 3 days and wasn't at all wiped out. The large tank doubles as a fairing and with the tank paniers I was totally shielded except for shoulders up.
I had a 92 PD around 2002 and sold it to a neighbor. He put 100K on it riding to Alaska several times and all over the west. Yes, these bikes have some electrical and electronic bits, but they're easy to diagnose and easy to carry spares. It's not like the newer bikes where an obscure little fault can leave you dead in the water. Yes, diode boards can fail - I've carried a spare but never was needed. Same with the alternator rotor.
I hope someone fills in the Guzzi side of the equation. How do they compare to the GS? Are they expensive? Difficult to find? How durable are they? Weak areas? Driveshaft issues? Etc...
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I've been repairing airhead speedometers for ten years now so can tell you there's no real difference between any of the GS speedos or even the earlier ones.
The difference Ive noticed is that I have never so far seen an early style GS speedo with a wobbly needle, and I have never seen a late style speedo that didnt in time develop a wobbly needle.
The Quota has unrealized potential... and very hard to solve EFI problems, often poor fuel mileage, exhaust problems, wheel problems etc. They are dirt cheap to buy now. The front brakes were better than the GS.
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I always wanted a R100 PD GS but ended up with a Quota. The Quota was perhaps the most comfortable bike I’ve ever had. none of the comments above on ergos above address the fact that it’s not just your height but your inseam combined with your arm length that must be factored in. This is why some people cannot ride a SP or an R100RS - the pegs are relatively high and the reach to the bars may or may not fit YOU.
Back to the Quota - deep pegs are nice- you can really unfold your legs which helps the hips. The note on
the mileage is correct - High 30s at best and worse on 10% Ethanol fuels that are hard to avoid in corn country. I had no issues with the exhaust or EFI. The only other issue With the Quota is wind buffeting and many people tried different wind deflectors. My Quota was written off when I had my accident but I bought it back and parted it out. I am using some of the parts on some builds I’m working on now. It was a great bike and I know a fella who put a Cali carburetored engine in one that I thought would have been the ultimate long distance dual sport if you wanted comfort over a smaller dual sport....
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did anyone mention tubeless tires?
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heres my gummikuh (rubber cow), yup, they're pretty comfy
(https://thumb.ibb.co/iTqeYd/IMG_0616.jpg) (https://ibb.co/iTqeYd)
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heres my gummikuh (rubber cow), yup, they're pretty comfy
(https://thumb.ibb.co/iTqeYd/IMG_0616.jpg) (https://ibb.co/iTqeYd)
Nice!
Bob
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That's like my 90 PD. Beautiful bike! I remember a time long ago when I thought the GS one of the ugliest bikes around.