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General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Mayor_of_BBQ on August 23, 2018, 03:24:28 PM
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So I need to cut the threaded mount stud on a pair of cheap turn signals. (for clearance inside the taillight assembly)
the wires are in place thru the stud and can't be removed
First attempt I double nutted the stud and put it in a wrench, put the wrench in a vise and tried to carefully cut it with a hacksaw moving at a snail's pace and working around with multiple small cuts/strokes...
of course I cut the wire, luckily these things are 4 for 20 on amazon & i only need two!
thought about a little pipe cutter, but the stud is threaded of course, so it would just run down the threads as you spin it.
I could possibly make a little sleeve to slide inside the stud to protect the wire (beer can?).. but it's very tight, the shim would have to be super thin
I don't think there is anyway to use a dremel or similar, the cable is too fragile and the clearance is too little
fire up the peanut gallery
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Post a couple of pics, it will give us a better idea of what your dealing with.
Maya
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I'd still use a pipe cutter. Maybe put a few nuts or larger tubing so if it tries to run down the threaded tube, it will find some resistance there and eventually make the cut where you want it.
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I would slightly cut all the way around with a hacksaw then run the pipe cutter in that groove to guide it.
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Drill a hole thru a piece of aluminum bar close to the end.
So you have the tube pushed through the bar as far as it will go with just the waste portion projecting
(pack it with washers or lock nuts until its just right)
Cut down with a junior hacksaw so it ends up about half way through the wall using the aluminum bar as a guide.
Slowly rotate the lamp cutting through the tube wall but only part way.
Pull the lamp back a ways and snap off the tube.
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No matter how you cut it there is going to be a sharp edge on the inside against the wires you'll need to deal with otherwise vibration will cause it to cut the wire over time.
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It would seem like there must be a method to remove the wire, if someone put it together you have to be able to take it apart. But then again that is armchair thought from a long ways away! :grin:
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I would slightly cut all the way around with a hacksaw then run the pipe cutter in that groove to guide it.
This^^^^^^^ or at least grind down the threads in that area and use the tubing cutter.
Paul B :boozing:
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Can you shove the wire into the stem, make the cut, and then fish the wire back out? If the wire is too long, cut it and resplice after the cut.
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Dremmel.
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if someone put it together you have to be able to take it apart. But then again that is armchair thought from a long ways away! :grin:
What he said..
and if not..
Dremmel.
Plus a pic would help understand your problem.
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I would slightly cut all the way around with a hacksaw then run the pipe cutter in that groove to guide it.
i feel this is the correct answer.. will report back
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I might have missed it but you could put the stem in the vice cross ways, cut a bit at a time rotating, the blade will stop on the jaw top.
I'm going to proclaim this the second place entry...
Thanks for the ideas, guys!
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The beer can shim protector idea is good, however you will need many empty beer cans to experiment on until you get the correct wire protector :boozing:
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I would cut the wire(s) and put new connectors on, or solder the wires back together, afterwards. Why fool around?
:boozing:
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I would cut the wire(s) and put new connectors on, or solder the wires back together, afterwards. Why fool around?
:boozing:
The length of the wire is not the issue, I am cutting down the threaded mounting stud.... I can't take the signal apart without destroying it, so I cant remove the wires that run thru the stud. if I cut the wire while cutting the stud, the wire will not reveal enough to strip and splice
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After you get it cut to length you'll have the sharp edges that'll cut the insulation, after you de burr it the best you can may I suggest glueing in a grommit with Goop. It sets fast and is tough stuff. You could just use that without a grommit.
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After you get it cut to length you'll have the sharp edges that'll cut the insulation, after you de burr it the best you can may I suggest glueing in a grommit with Goop. It sets fast and is tough stuff. You could just use that without a grommit.
yeah I was thinking im just gonna put epoxy in the stud to center & secure the wire... it's not like this cheap little signal is destined to be disassembled & repaired someday
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I always use a jeweller's saw for cutting stuff like that.
(https://www.micromark.com/Web%20Store%20Images/22105_R-1.jpg)
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If you stuff as much wire into the stud as possible, then if you cut it with the tool you'll have enough to work with.
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I still dont have a good picture of what you're trying to do, but will suggest an approach.
You should, if possible, put thr stud on a completely flat surface, on its side, so it can be slid or rolled there. Then devise a way to clamp a Dremel cuttoff tool over the flat surface so that its cutting edge is exactly the diameter of the stud, less one wall thickness, above the flat. That done, slide and roll your stud below the tool. You will not be able to to cut the wire that way, i believe. You will have to adjust the tool position as the carbide wears away.
Once your set up is complete, make two opposed longitudinal cuts to allow the separation of the section to be removed. It won't matter if these extend somewhat beyond the section. Then rotate the stud on the flat, under the tool, to cut out the section.
My suggestion is that you reduce the degrees of freedom of movement so that the cutting edge cannot enter the core of the stud
A picture might help us understand better.
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what about just fit a spacer on the thread so it does not go through too far.
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I would slightly cut all the way around with a hacksaw then run the pipe cutter in that groove to guide it.
This sounds like the winner to me. How did it go Mr. Mayor?
Rick.
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I'd put it in the lathe and gently use a parting off tool..
Or
Fold a piece of metal into an elongated U shape and fix it over a hacksaw blade so only a small portion is visible. The blade will only go as deep as the gauge allows.
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That done, slide and roll your stud below the tool.
Ummm..
Yeah..! :thumb: :wink:
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Is this gonna take a long time? :grin:
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what about just fit a spacer on the thread so it does not go through too far.
already tried that, but then the signal sticks out too far on the outside of the tail light housing & fouls the tailpiece.
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I still dont have a good picture of what you're trying to do, but will suggest an approach.
devise a way to clamp a Dremel cuttoff tool over the flat surface so that its cutting edge is exactly the diameter of the stud, less one wall thickness, above the flat. That done, slide and roll your stud below the tool. You will not be able to to cut the wire that way, i believe. You will have to adjust the tool position as the carbide wears away.
the plunge router jig for my dremel might just accommodate this! Thanks
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Is this gonna take a long time? :grin:
I coulda done it 5x in the time I have replied to this thread, lol
Thanks for all the suggestions guys, I have enough ideas to get it done sunday.... now off to camp!
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Cheapest way (Guzziest way), is just use hand signals.