Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: mrv on September 28, 2018, 07:55:41 AM
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I have had my 2012 Norge 1200 for two and a half weeks now. I bought it with 26000 miles on it and everything seemed fine with it until I rode it a couple of days and the valve noise on the left cylinder kept getting louder. After that first week of riding I checked the valves and found the exhaust was way out of tolerance. I checked and adjusted both cylinders (only the left was out, and the engine was cold) It has been a week and I had to adjust the exhaust on the left cylinder again last night. I checked all of the bolts and everything is at proper torque. So I am at a loss as to why the exhaust would get loose again after only a week. I really hope it is not something deeper in the engine that might be causing this issue so I am reaching out to those who have more experience with Guzzi's.
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Flat tappet failing, needs rollerized
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So are you saying I need to replace the cam?
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Replace the cams and replace the flat tappets with the roller tappets. there is a kit available for this from Guzzi. Did you get a great deal on the Norge?
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I thought I got a great deal on it, dealer gave me an even trade for my 2010 Tiger 1050 for it. But sounds like it is going to cost me more than the bike is worth.
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I hope it wasn't a Guzzi dealer who sold it to you, if it was and they didn't make you aware of the flat tappet issue they need to fix it.
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Full list for Kit $1200.
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(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1723/40744732770_6864e3dc88_z.jpg)
They all do it.
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It was a Triumph/ Ducati/ BMW dealer
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Full list for Kit $1200.
And a typical labor cost if the OP can't do the work himself?
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Does the bike have a full service history? If so you might get lucky if you take it to a Guzzi dealer who knows what they're doing as there is/was a Byzantine process you could go through to claim a kit from Piaggio but the factory will do their damndest to wriggle out of responsibility.
At least a 2012 is easy to rollerise. You'll need an 'A' kit. Four hours labour should cover it.
Pete
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And a typical labor cost if the OP can't do the work himself?
4hrs book time, if they want more go elsewhere.
I can install if you want it done.
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Jeez mate I feel damn sorry for you, (not that it helps...)
The issue of flat tappets on early 8 valvers is well documented here, but given that this is the hand you've been dealt, follow the advice from the guys that know (or preferably the guy that knows) to the letter, and if he says the innards need to come out and be washed, just take a deep breath and do it..
Hopefully the word will be to flush the oil regularly, do the roller thing along with the usual maintenance checks regarding grease etc..
I'd be encouraged by the fact that you will then have a phenomenally good bike by the opinion of those that know best, 8 valvers are fantastic by all accounts, (I don't have one..)
Read every damn thing you can that's been written here by Roper and do not believe any dissenting arguments.
Pleas don't hate her..(the bike, that is..)
You will "enjoy" the journey of bringing your beautiful bike to good health and I'd like to follow your story.
Don't despair mate all is not lost, but I think you'll be advised not to run her any more in current condition of rootedness, or you'll circulate the shit through your beautiful motor and shag it terminally.
Three words in conclusion.
LISTEN TO ROPER...!
three more
AND GUZZI STEVE..!
three more
Got a photo...?
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Is there a part number for the kit in case Piaggio will not send me one?
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I believe I have located the part number 1A002060. Hopefully I can locate one for sale.
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Well, according to the bulletin Norges are an A kit PN# 1A002060
http://www.af1racing.com/store/Scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=71398&sku=1A002060&description=Moto+Guzzi+Bucket+Tappet+Update+Kit+%22A%22+%2D+1A002060
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I have an 'A' kitin stock but it wouldn't be economically viable to send it to you. Buy a sump gasket as well as dropping the sump for a clean out is wise. Risk of further damage is dependent on how far the degradation has been allowed to progress.
Pete
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Hopefully the damage will be up top only. But I still have to ride home tonight.
I thank everyone who has responded to.
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Don't even start it again til it's fixed. It can be the difference between saving the motor and loosing it. Trailer it.
Pete
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I have tried several times to contact Piaggio via their web page with no luck. I contacted the closest Guzzi dealer to me for their help. Hopefully they can help acquire the replacement kit without me being out of pocket the $1000-1200.
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You have to take the bike to them, allow them to strip it and take pictures of the damage and various identifying factors which have to be submitted to Piaggio for consideration. You will also need a full service history in the book or receipts showing dates and mileage's of all work performed on the machine.
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Sounds like an expensive endeavor just a document and submit the information without a guarantee that Piaggio will even issue the parts. Think I might just replace the flat tappets since the first lasted around 20000 + miles.
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Sounds like an expensive endeavor just a document and submit the information without a guarantee that Piaggio will even issue the parts. Think I might just replace the flat tappets since the first lasted around 20000 + miles.
I think that is a very bad idea.
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Sounds like an expensive endeavor just a document and submit the information without a guarantee that Piaggio will even issue the parts. Think I might just replace the flat tappets since the first lasted around 20000 + miles.
I'll second the bad idea.
Go back up and look at the pic Pete posted. See all the shiny part? It should all be black. Yours is likely some degree of that. If you pull it apart enough to inspect that, you are far along to simply doing it right and be done with it. Furthermore, where do you think that DLC coating has gone as it has worn off the surface? How long do you think you can keep putting wear particles through your engine before you damage the bottom end?
You're not doing yourself any favors by putting your head in the sand. Pete knows what he is talking about. Many of us, including me, have had to deal with this issue.
John Henry
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Sounds like an expensive endeavor just a document and submit the information without a guarantee that Piaggio will even issue the parts. Think I might just replace the flat tappets since the first lasted around 20000 + miles.
Plan on getting $2K less w/you sell it.
I would let the dealer do inspection if you get free parts, I'll bet you can't find new flat tappets.
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What everyone is saying is that you just can't shortcut this. Without doing the proper swap you are sitting on a reliability time bomb. Sorry, but with 20K+ miles that yours has on it I would not pay more that body work parts prices for the bike unless the proper swap has been documented being done like yesterday.
I had mine done at 12K and it was showing wear. For whatever reasons I could not get help from Guzzi but felt I had no choice but to have it done. At least I have peace of mind now and the bike continues to be a great tourer.
GliderJohn
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I have a strong feeling there is no service records on the bike, but I am still investigating
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Are the service records required in the states? I know in some countries, automotive service has to be done by the dealer to keep warranty in effect.. but as far as I know, not here.
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Sounds like an expensive endeavor just a document and submit the information without a guarantee that Piaggio will even issue the parts. Think I might just replace the flat tappets since the first lasted around 20000 + miles.
This won't work because the cams will be compromised.
Look, I sympathise with your plight but fifteen minutes of research prior to purchase would of revealed the necessity of finding out whether or not the machine was a roller or flat tappet model. This problem has been known, if not understood, for years.
You basically have two or three choices. You can try and get your money back from the dealer. You can pursue satisfaction through Piaggio. You can suck it up, accept you were stiffed by the dealer and just get it done, chances are you will end up with a wonderful machine. Or you can on-sell it, hopefully with full disclosure otherwise it lowers you to the same level of bastardry as the place that sold it to you.
Sorry, there are no cheap or easy ways out. Bite the bullet and rollerise it.
As I said you will need to look at and grease the swingarm bearings as well. There are what the ones I pulled out of a 1200 Sport yesterday looked like.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1929/44112251505_aa2f1255fa.jpg)
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1929/45023349451_ec71640544.jpg)
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1950/44112251195_ee6a6b510a.jpg)
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1972/44304188044_bdc0da9f32.jpg)
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1923/45023349581_d095e4a529.jpg)
Get to them early and this won't occur.
Pete
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<sigh> What Pete sez.
The 4V problem is a well known issue.. I'm not happy about it.. we, collectively are not happy about it.. but it is what it is. :sad:
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I'm sure the previous owner knew about it, just wish he would have taken care of it instead of covering it up to make a sale. I don't blame the dealer because if he adjusted the valves when he took it in they wouldn't know not being a Guzzi dealer.
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Oh I'm sure as soon as it started making odd noises he did a bit of research, freaked out, closed up the clearances and flipped it. IMHO a totally shitty thing to do.
Pete
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If you do just replace the flatties, will you give us another report in 40,000 miles ?
No one will scoff..
(I promise)
We have the benefit of a massive pool of collective wisdom on this (and many other) topics.
As Pete will freely admit he is far from the sole font of all knowlege on this topic, but do you really expect to half arsedly "fix" your bike and expect to just stroll away..?
It will be worth 3/5 th's of 5/8 th's of S F A, if you follow this course of action.
The rollerising and associated buggerising around that you will do, will only serve to form a "bond" with your Guzzi.
If you don't know what I mean, just go and buy a VFR 1200 Honda.
They're as reliable as a wooden spoon...
(And almost as interesting..)
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I actually was looking at a VFR but the distance from me to get it the mileage on it steered me away from it to the Norge.
I am waiting to hear back from the closest dealer to me to see what they say. I did find the roller kit on one site here in the US for $726. So if the dealer gives me the thumbs down and and the other is in stock I will go repair with the roller kit since it is only about $200 more than replacing the flat tappets. I really like the bike my wife is comfy on the back so if I can get this fixed the I will look at what other issues I need to be aware of on it.
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I actually was looking at a VFR but the distance from me to get it the mileage on it steered me away from it to the Norge.
I am waiting to hear back from the closest dealer to me to see what they say. I did find the roller kit on one site here in the US for $726. So if the dealer gives me the thumbs down and and the other is in stock I will go repair with the roller kit since it is only about $200 more than replacing the flat tappets. I really like the bike my wife is comfy on the back so if I can get this fixed the I will look at what other issues I need to be aware of on it.
A friend of mine here in town has a VFR for sale...I'll have to get specs. It's the fast Red Huzo color, so it looks like it's doing 100 mph while standing still! :)
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It still upsets me to read that Piaggio demands the owner have the top end dismantled, and the tappets inspected before they'll provide the kit. No installation labor costs are covered. Here's your damned kit. Period/paragraph.
This should be a recall where parts and labor are covered. And based on what we know (and they, they being Piaggio, know,) there should be a complete engine replacement, especially for higher mileage flat tappet bikes like the one owned by the OP. Under warranty.
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The Piaggio Rep in California as well as the dealer that I bought the bike from said my vin# is not in the technical service bulletin regarding the lifters. So I guess I will need to tear bike apart and see for myself if the tappets are bad and if so order the kit myself and just cough up the money.
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A friend of mine here in town has a VFR for sale...I'll have to get specs. It's the fast Red Huzo color, so it looks like it's doing 100 mph while standing still! :)
It'd still be fast if it was baby shit brown/yellow/green, you would just get bored with it sooner.
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I actually was looking at a VFR but the distance from me to get it the mileage on it steered me away from it to the Norge.
I am waiting to hear back from the closest dealer to me to see what they say. I did find the roller kit on one site here in the US for $726. So if the dealer gives me the thumbs down and and the other is in stock I will go repair with the roller kit since it is only about $200 more than replacing the flat tappets. I really like the bike my wife is comfy on the back so if I can get this fixed the I will look at what other issues I need to be aware of on it.
And if you CAN'T get the roller kit.
If it's 200 bucks that's gunna' sway you, ring me and I'll help..$$$. :rolleyes:
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The Piaggio Rep in California as well as the dealer that I bought the bike from said my vin# is not in the technical service bulletin regarding the lifters. So I guess I will need to tear bike apart and see for myself if the tappets are bad and if so order the kit myself and just cough up the money.
Jesus wept! Not this shit again!
There was a recall for the original chilled cast iron flat tappets. This was for 2007-early '09 engine. The recall replaced the chilled cast iron tappets with the forged steel with DLC coating flat tappets. THEY STILL FAIL! There was NEVER a recall campaign for the later DLC tappets. After production of flat tappet engines ceased Piaggio released a service bulletin with a 'Technical Update' which suggested that in the unlikely (Ha!) event that the flat tappets failed in a motor and that motor had a FSH they would, at their discretion, provide a kit.
The 'Recall' campaign the shitgibbon Piaggio Rep is talking about is the one for the '07-'09 engine's so of course your 2012 Norge falls outside 'The Range' because it's totally irrelevant! You are being fed an enormous turd sandwich!
Pete
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It still upsets me to read that Piaggio demands the owner have the top end dismantled, and the tappets inspected before they'll provide the kit. No installation labor costs are covered. Here's your damned kit. Period/paragraph.
This should be a recall where parts and labor are covered. And based on what we know (and they, they being Piaggio, know,) there should be a complete engine replacement, especially for higher mileage flat tappet bikes like the one owned by the OP. Under warranty.
But it's not going to happen Bob. Also spare a thought for the blokes trying to make a living who will be flooded with non paying work sorting out Piaggio's/Aprilias screw up!
Pete
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But it's not going to happen Bob. Also spare a thought for the blokes trying to make a living who will be flooded with non paying work sorting out Piaggio's/Aprilias screw up!
Pete
Hey, Pete .... I understand that Piaggio won't step up to the plate. And I do understand what you're saying about them stiffing techs like yourself. You make the repair. And you wait and wait for reimbursement that may never come. The thought of techs with your level of talent having to literally fight Piaggio for reimbursement is sad.
Bob
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It's not that it will 'Never come' it's the fact it's given at 'Their' hourly rate which is about 1/2 of mine and only for 'Their' number of hours. It also isn't paid a 'Money' it's given as a credit against your parts account! It's difficult to buy beer with parts for a shitty old Moto Guzzi! :evil:
Pete
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It's not that it will 'Never come' it's the fact it's given at 'Their' hourly rate which is about 1/2 of mine and only for 'Their' number of hours. It also isn't paid a 'Money' it's given as a credit against your parts account! It's difficult to buy beer with parts for a shitty old Moto Guzzi! :evil:
Pete
I hear ya! "Barkeep, a round for me and my friends." As you slam down a fistful of crush washers in payment! Something wrong with this picture.
Bob
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The Piaggio Rep in California as well as the dealer that I bought the bike from said my vin# is not in the technical service bulletin regarding the lifters. So I guess I will need to tear bike apart and see for myself if the tappets are bad and if so order the kit myself and just cough up the money.
The unending nonsense and incompetence from Piaggio on this matter is enough to give a man a stroke! Useless crooked bastards! They may as well run for public office!
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having had a number of beemers, i would say that this is the standard m.o. for european corporate offices. i will never forget the "surging" issue of the early 1100 and 1150 twins. first, they blamed the riders for 10 years then they came out with the dual plug fix in 2004, but not to fix the surge, because there perfect machines did not surge, but it was we riders were too unskilled to pilot their perfect machines, but because of pollution regs or some other corporate b.s. i had a vw car with a similar issue that many, many other owners had and got the same line of b.s. from them.
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having had a number of beemers, i would say that this is the standard m.o. for european corporate offices. i will never forget the "surging" issue of the early 1100 and 1150 twins. first, they blamed the riders for 10 years then they came out with the dual plug fix in 2004, but not to fix the surge, because there perfect machines did not surge, but it was we riders were too unskilled to pilot their perfect machines, but because of pollution regs or some other corporate b.s. i had a vw car with a similar issue that many, many other owners had and got the same line of b.s. from them.
"There is nothing wrong with that rear shock. These are the finest engineered motorcycles in the world." :evil:
An aftermarket rear shock fixed it at $800. Strangely enough, BMW fixed it on the next model year..
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Looks like the OP is in Arkansas ... what's the closest Moto Guzzi dealer that knows what they are talking about? AF1 in Austin? Or is there a closer one?
Just thinking ... talk with a knowledgeable MG dealer, long haul to drop off bike, when all done fly/ride it back home.
First question to ask a MG service dept is how many of these have they done. If the head mechanic that works on Guzzi's has never done one, move on.
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The one I've been talking with is in Tulsa, OK. Don't think he has ever dealt with it from the way he talks
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Just heard from the dealer I was working with in Tulsa, He basically told me I'm SOL. Because I am not the original owner and the bike is out of warranty. So it will be a waste of time (his perhaps) to continue to pursue this.
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The '12 Norge is easy to convert to roller tappets. -- You don't even have to remove the heads, just the valve covers. There is an excellent step by step tutorial with pictures here on the forum to walk you through it, -- courtesy of Pete. You might take a look at that thread before you decide anything, once you understand that the job to be done isn't terribly complicated or even time consuming, you might opt to do it yourself -- look up "rollerisation of the 8V"
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Just heard from the dealer I was working with in Tulsa, He basically told me I'm SOL. Because I am not the original owner and the bike is out of warranty. So it will be a waste of time (his perhaps) to continue to pursue this.
Technical bulletin #20 from 2013 on the Servicemotoguzzi website. Suggest the person dealing with your issue read it before blurting nonsense. I have screenshots of the bulletin I kept for posterity but since they are subject to copyright and I don't want to risk having my arse sued off I can't post them up. Pity.
Pete
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The one I've been talking with is in Tulsa, OK. Don't think he has ever dealt with it from the way he talks
May be worth checking with the guys in Dallas or even Mike here at MPH in Houston. If you can ship the bike down here, I'd bet Mike could take of you, or at the very least, worth a call to him to check in advance.
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I have ordered the parts, it's just not viable for me to haul or ship the bike for repair.
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OK, well if you're going to undertakethe job yourself, which is commendable, ASK if you have any doubts or problems. It is fairly straightforward but it's easy to bust stuff if you're rough.
Pete
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Luckily growing up in the country and on a farm I learned at a young age how to work on vehicles, plus having mechanics school. I have never taken any of my autos/ bikes for any service work other than warranty work. And even then things did not turn out well with the work that was completed. But be assured I will ask questions that I am unable to figure out, I never stop learning. Thanks again for all the help so far and to come.
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Good luck
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Well my vin# might not be included but results still the same.
(https://thumb.ibb.co/cuASB9/IMG_20181009_092121284_HDR.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cuASB9)
(https://thumb.ibb.co/dd5ijU/IMG_20181009_092131455.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dd5ijU)
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This is a really interesting thread, sorry you got stiffed with this bike but please keep us posted on the process.
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I hope you sent the pics to Piaggio in CostaMesa.
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Yes I sent the picks as well as the name of the Guzzi dealer that would not help me to the customer care rep in Costa Mesa
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Do you have a plan as to how far you will delve into the guts to eradicate the DLC that's migrated through, or just remove the sump and flush what you can.
Have you had any advice on this matter, I've no knowlege of how good or bad these buggered ones can be, but it does look to be fairly rooted.
In any case, you will have a large degree of satisfaction working through the process.
I'll be interested to see your progress.
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Pics are pretty nasty. In a case like that I'd be definitely pulling the sump and for my own satisfaction back-flushing the oil cooler. Really, after that, it's in the lap of the gods.
Pete
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what is the best way to back flush the oil cooler?
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Well my vin# might not be included but results still the same.
(https://thumb.ibb.co/cuASB9/IMG_20181009_092121284_HDR.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cuASB9)
(https://thumb.ibb.co/dd5ijU/IMG_20181009_092131455.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dd5ijU)
Wow! That's pretty bad. I'd be having a look at the bottom end, oil pump, flushing as well as I could. Don't forget the pressure relief valve..
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Yes I sent the picks as well as the name of the Guzzi dealer that would not help me to the customer care rep in Costa Mesa
That's good, something may come of it yet. I would run some fuel through the cooler in the outlet. Clean everything you see w/dropping pan. I use a spray bottle & fuel. Good time to change the other pan gskt also.
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what is the best way to back flush the oil cooler?
I use the pressure line from our parts washer as long as the fluid is clean initially and then finish off by gravity flushing both ways before blowing it out with compressed air. Off the bike of course.
Steve's advice on the spacer gasket is good as well. The gasket between the block and the spacer is prone to blowing out around the delivery gallery due to the early gaskets being thin and brittle. There are nice, thick, supple, gaskets with a lot more crush available aftermarket that render the problem a non issue. Since you're going in removing an extra five or six bolts to drop the spacer is a no brainer.
Pete
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Finally revived my parts, now I can start the repairs.
I feel like after I clean everything out as best I can to add an inexpensive oil to it run the bike till it reaches operating temp then change the oil and filter once again and put the good oil in it. Also put a magnet on the filter as well. Any thoughts?
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If you've dropped the sump and back flushed the cooler there's really no need for farting about with the cheap oil. Apart from anything else a mineral oil won't have the ability to withstand the heat in some parts of the motor. OK if you're just going to run it for a few minutes but I'd question the need, and waste, of such an approach.
Stick a new filter on, set the valves to 4 & 6 thou, add the required amount of decent synthetic yak fat, start it, tune it and then go ride the piss out of it.
Pete
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So can any good synthetic oil be used as long as it is 10w-60? Eni is pricy stuff
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Can any good synthetic oil be used as long as it's 10w-60?Eni is pricy stuff and I have to order it.
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Yes, brand doesn’t matter.
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Yes, as long as it's a full ester synthetic. It's the ability to resist heat degradation that is important. Although the 8V runs stupidly cool there are points in the motor that run the oil extremely hot, only momentarily but very, very hot and a conventional mineral oil won't put up with it for long.
Pete
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Yes, as long as it's a full ester synthetic. It's the ability to resist heat degradation that is important. Although the 8V runs stupidly cool there are points in the motor that run the oil extremely hot, only momentarily but very, very hot and a conventional mineral oil won't put up with it for long.
Pete
[/quote
Is the flat tappet issue oil related? not enough ZDDP?? Just wondering, what a bleeped up deal!
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No it's not. That particular red herring has been flogged to death. Don't even think about going there! :violent1:
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Well, how many here use Liqui Moly yak fat? 10W60 @ around $8. a lt.
Don't go oil thread.
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Finally have the rollers installed dropped the sump cleaned everything out changed oil. Fired it up and everything sounds good only problem now the dash shows service oil. I went into setting and reset service but icon still shows on dash. I've searched a little on the forms but need to probably look deeper to see if there is an answer.
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I hate it when stuff like that happens. <looking for beating head on brick wall emoticon> Shirley, Pete will be along shortly.. :tongue:
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(https://i34.servimg.com/u/f34/18/91/78/64/455e6c10.gif)
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Finally have the rollers installed dropped the sump cleaned everything out changed oil. Fired it up and everything sounds good only problem now the dash shows service oil. I went into setting and reset service but icon still shows on dash. I've searched a little on the forms but need to probably look deeper to see if there is an answer.
Maybe a sump gasket in backwards and you have low oil pressure.
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Did you drop the sump spacer as suggested?
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Sump gasket only fits one way because when I laid it on the pan I had to flip it so it would fit, The oil pressure light is not on, it just shows service and then oil can icon.
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Have you looked for an error code?
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Don't recall seeing one when I scrolled through
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Sump gasket only fits one way because when I laid it on the pan I had to flip it so it would fit, The oil pressure light is not on, it just shows service and then oil can icon.
Yup, but did you change the spacer gasket that goes between the block and the spacer?
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I did not change the spacer gasket.
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Mistake.
While it my not be the problem the fact is when you remove the sump you will of upset the camping forces on the spacer and those early gaskets have a known fail point around the delivery side.
First I'd go and delete the error codes in the dash. If that fails throw a new oil pressure switch at it. If that doesn't work we'll have to look into it further but since you haven't really buggered about with anything that should affect the oil delivery I think the solution will be simple.
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This is turning out to be one big lemon of a bike, I did not want a money pit just wanted to ride. I guess at least the big issue has been fixed.
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Just checked faults. Shows DSB 06 - A M, DSB 08 M. I pulled valve cover and there is oil in the head so it looks like there is oil flowing. Guess I will pull the tank and airbox back off again to make sure I did not accidentally knock loos a plug.
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There are two pumps (you should have noticed two pickups in the sump). One simply pumps oil through the cooler and into the head to cool it. It has no sensors. The main oil pump has the sensor and has little to do with the work you did in the head. Unless you pulled the oil sensor wire, which I doubt, it has to be in the sump. Probably a simple thing, but annoying, of course.
Get this out of the way, and you should have a good ride for many thousands of miles.
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I don't understand if it is the pump why it would fail when I did not touch it. I wonder if it just has an air lock since there is oil in the heads.
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The oil pressure code (08) is memorised. Did you pre fill the new filter before you installed it? If not that will throw the pressure code while it's filling on start up. The air temperature sensor code (06) is still active which probably means you forgot to plug it in again after you had the airbox out. Whip the tank off, reconnect the air temp sensor, clear the error codes and see if they come back.
Pete
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I did fill the filter before installing. Just finished pulling tank and airbox. Pulled oil pressure gauge off and cranked engine to make sure there is pressure and there is. Put a new teminal end on the oil pressure wire other was barely hanging on. Put everything back together verified all connectors were connected, cleared codes and fired it up. Still shows service and then oil can I on after starting, red idiot light on as well.
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Well rats. Did an error come back?
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Error came back
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Error came back
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Both 06 and 08?
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Yes, 06 and 08. I guess I'll drop the F'ing pan again just to see since that is the only thing I did other than replace the cam assy. I have checked and rechecked to make sure the air sensor is plugged in. But the dash shows only the oil can icon and the word service. It does not show any icons for the air sensor.
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Chuck a new oil pressure sender at it. They are notoriously flakey.
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Is there the switch by chance available from another source other than Guzzi? If not then I guess another week down waiting for shipment.
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Yup, dunno the part# in the US though. Shout out and someone will know. The thread pitch is the important thing to get right, there were two types. It should be an 'Open in service' switch.
Pete
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I seen some posts on this old tractor that show part numbers for Autozon, Oreilly, Napa but they show for the V700, V7 Special, Ambassador, 850 GT, 850 GT California, Eldorado, and 850 California Police models. Don't know yet if they use the same part number as the Norge or not. Will have to dig a little deeper.
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Yes, 06 and 08. I guess I'll drop the F'ing pan again just to see since that is the only thing I did other than replace the cam assy. I have checked and rechecked to make sure the air sensor is plugged in. But the dash shows only the oil can icon and the word service. It does not show any icons for the air sensor.
The oil can icon is a reminder to service the engine. You make that go away by resetting service warning. I would do that before taking anything else apart.
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The oil can icon is a reminder to service the engine. You make that go away by resetting service warning. I would do that before taking anything else apart.
No it isn't. You're talking twaddle.
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No it isn't. You're talking twaddle.
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You are correct, it is the Key icon that indicates a service interval. ]
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No, the service icon is a spanner, (Wrench.). Sorry, your input is not helpful.
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I have used the older pressure switch and just make up a wire jumper to make it work.
Hey, you should get 2 gskts, the spacer and the pan, just to be safe.
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Damn I'm definitely a pro at removing the tank and airbox now. Just pulled the pressure gauge off it looks as though it has been removed with pliers St one time do someone has messed with it.
Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
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I ordered a pressure sensor from AF1. Hope it fixes the problem. What other known failure wonders can I look forward to on the Guzzi?
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Only other 'Must Do's' are greasing the swingarm bearings and shock linkage needle rollers. Neither get the attention they need lavished upon them by the grease-phobic layabouts on the production line.
Pete
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At last my Goose is back up and seems to be good again. Maybe I will be able to ride it for more than a week like I got to do last month when I bought it. How many miles should I ride it before rechecking the valve clearances?
(https://thumb.ibb.co/gU12rV/IMG-20181022-193117294.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gU12rV)
what is aluminum symbol (https://aluminumsulfate.net/aluminum-chloride)
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10,000km.
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Thanks Pete, I didn't know if it needed checked sooner after installation of the new tappet assembly or not.
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It shouldn't. The 8V's and later smallblocks uselaminated steel gaskets that are, effectively, incompressible. There are reasons for that that I can explain if you want to wait a few weeks but I'm about to go to NZ and will be as busy as a dog with three dicks for a while rollerising shitboxes! :evil:
Fact is once they are torqued down you just leave the buggers alone! In 6. Whatever K miles do the valve lash, balance the TB's and recalibrate the TPS, then just ride.
The reason why older motors with kingelite gaskets needed re-torquing is beacause the gaskets collapsed as they heat cycled. With the steel laminates this is no nonger an issue.
Pete
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Is there anything unique about the oil pressure sensor on the CARC bikes like an end of line resistor?
Or is it just the usual normally closed switch?
This has been a heroic journey.
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Been the same kind of switch forever, same as your G11, grounded on/off.
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MRV - very impressive how you powered through this and fixed everything! :thumb: :thumb:
Hope you have a lot of fun trouble free miles on the Norge now.
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Way to go, MRV.. :thumb:
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Are the service records required in the states? I know in some countries, automotive service has to be done by the dealer to keep warranty in effect.. but as far as I know, not here.
magnuson moss warranty act says service work does not have to be done by a dealer.
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Way to go MRV ! Nice red valve covers !
-- Only thing I didn't hear mentioned that you might consider in the future is updating the fueling Map with Guzzi-Diag to one of Beetle's maps. Most Norge owners on this forum have done that. Also, don't put in too much oil, I think I put in almost 1/2 a liter less than what the manual says because otherwise it gets blown out into the breather and leaks down the tube creating a mess on the CARC.
It's a great bike, enjoy !!
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Thanks for the props for performing my own repair, but it is just a motor and the head/cylinders are the easiest I have worked on. As long as I have torque specs and repair manual then I will tackle any task.
I thought the Red valve covers gave it a nice accent, really liked the way they looked on the MGX 21 and V7 dark Carbon.
I did notice after my test ride I had some oil in the airbox tube, which I did have a bit too much oil in it but have since pulled some back out.
So I guess I will have to purchase a programming tool to update the ecu mapping next! It does have a bit of a stumble off idle.
When it gets too cold for me to tough it out riding any longer I will tackle the swingarm and shock bearings.
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Just a congrats from me as well mrv.
You could have taken the soft option there but did not. You and the bike will be a good pair.. :thumb: :bow:
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Pete, do you have a problem with the seal on the right (brake) side, dislodging when you push the pivot spindle through on the swingarm..?
Mine used to be prone to popping out of it's register upon re assembly.