Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Thirtyaughtsix on September 30, 2018, 05:58:43 AM
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So got a whole new throwout for my 850T, I followed Greg benders clutch adjustment guide for loop frames and I don't think I got it quite right. Is there anything different about the tonti frame? I can't fully disengage the clutch while also having any free play in the cable. Bike does have SD-tec clutch plates. What am I missing?
Also I do have a correct 850T clutch cable as far as I'm aware, I've read they're one of a kind
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I think the SD plates are thicker than stock (did you happen to measure them?). I am writing this off memory, so I could well be wrong- do a search here for SD plates and see what others have said about installing them.
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I think the SD plates are thicker than stock (did you happen to measure them?). I am writing this off memory, so I could well be wrong- do a search here for SD plates and see what others have said about installing them.
I have not, I was not the one who installed them so I've never actually laid eyes on them. I too have read they're a bit thicker. Outer body sits maybe a thousandth or 2 or 3 recessed with the all new everything in at the moment, FWIW
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What I would do is this, Start with .160 inch freeplay as eyeballed at the front of the handlebar clutch lever, By this I mean the crack at the front of the pivot point, not at the end of the lever itself. Then pull the clutch lever all the way in and hold it there somehow (clamp or a friend holding it) then go to the back of the transmission and see that the end of the arm there is not hitting something that is not letting it push the assembly in as far as it should. If that is happening , you need to lengthen forward the littlescrew on that arm. If the arm is not hitting anything and the clutch does not disengage, I am afraid you will need to pull the transmission and check out your clutch plates. Your center plate may be warped or broken comes to mind. Good Luck to you.
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I've experienced the exact same symptoms with clutches replaced by dealers, (when I've done clutch jobs myself I've had no problems whatsoever :wink:)
you can alleviate the problem by putting a ball bearing in between the throwout assembly and the pushrod, or an extra washer between bearing and outer body of throwout assembly. Has enabled me to stop my dealer fitted clutches from dragging when hot.
YMMV
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I replaced the clutch plates in the 87 LeMans within the last year with some new ones from Stein Dense. When I started it up first time, the clutch wouldn't disengage. I thought I'd done something wrong but couldn't find anything amiss. Finally I started it up in gear and test rode it. By the time I returned it was acting normally - they had worn just enough to have free play.
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If you have a bar clamp that is split you can make a spacer to position the lever farther from the bar so it can have more throw. there may be a Brembo spacer for this, a half moon sort of a thing. I made my own and it needs to fit accurately or it will break the clamp.
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If you have a bar clamp that is split you can make a spacer to position the lever farther from the bar so it can have more throw. there may be a Brembo spacer for this, a half moon sort of a thing. I made my own and it needs to fit accurately or it will break the clamp.
I sorta like the sound of this, but unless I get some pics or something I'm thinking I'd have a much easier time finding a ball bearing of appropriate size and throwing it in there
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Any time I install the SD-TEC plates, I use this throw-out bearing:
http://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=193&products_id=4793
Here's an interesting new part out of Italy, a new version clutch outer body, or clutch push rod plunger using 2 sealing o-rings to help prevent leaks at this common leak location. This new version uses two of the 90706170 orings rather than the original one oring. The other difference is that the large diameter section of the body is 2.5mm longer than the original 14086100, and the overall length of the piece is 0.4mm longer. The additional length of the main body section would theoretically compensate for thicker clutch plates.
(http://www.mgcycle.com/images/atrex/14086100b.jpg)
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Any time I install the SD-TEC plates, I use this throw-out bearing:
http://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=193&products_id=4793
Here's an interesting new part out of Italy, a new version clutch outer body, or clutch push rod plunger using 2 sealing o-rings to help prevent leaks at this common leak location. This new version uses two of the 90706170 orings rather than the original one oring. The other difference is that the large diameter section of the body is 2.5mm longer than the original 14086100, and the overall length of the piece is 0.4mm longer. The additional length of the main body section would theoretically compensate for thicker clutch plates.
(http://www.mgcycle.com/images/atrex/14086100b.jpg)
I like this even more. Do you use this alone? No additional ball bearings or washers anywhere?
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I like this even more. Do you use this alone? No additional ball bearings or washers anywhere?
Alone. Nothing needed except that.
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Alone. Nothing needed except that.
I'll order now, I'll keep yall posted. Thank you