Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: pete roper on October 16, 2018, 11:27:05 PM
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Cylinder head cover.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1936/44462313005_050a26ed2f_z.jpg)
Remove screws holding on HT lead cover.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1952/44462312845_ee4b7330fc_z.jpg)
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1952/44652504134_80c413bd9a_z.jpg)
Then remove the cover. Suspenders-snappers will be overjoyed to know it's made of aluminium rather than plastic adding weight and cost to something that ideally should be made of plastic!
Pull off the plug cap and hang the HT lead out of the way. It sits in clips at the top of the head and needs to be popped out to be pulled out of the way.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1923/44652503884_6fe110347b_z.jpg)
Undo the three cap screws retaining the rocker cover and remove it.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1925/44652504104_700c8cc0ac_z.jpg)
Remove the spark plugs, (You'll have to remove all the HT lead dross from the other side to achieve this.). Now the best way to proceed is to tie down the front of the bike and jack it up under the sump to get the back wheel off the ground. Once you can turn the wheel stick the bike in top gear and pull the engine over with the rear wheel. Turn the wheel in the direction it rotates when going forwards and watch the inlet valve rocker. You'll see it open the valve and then close. The piston is now on the compression stroke. Pop your finger into the plug 'ole or use a drinking straw through the hole onto the crown of the piston and keep turning the wheel until the straw starts to descend again or air stops pushing past your finger. Jiggle the wheel back and forth until you are confident the straw is very, very close to its highest point, (Achieved when the piston is at TDC.). Note it doesn't have to be exact. A few degrees each way won't make a blind bit of difference. As long as the tappets are on the base circle of the cams it's all good.
Grab yer feeler gauges and adjust the valves by loosening the locknut on the adjuster and turning the adjuster until the gauge is a smooth sliding fit in the gap betwixt rocker and valve.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1947/45376638411_f08e22d41b_z.jpg)
When you're happy re tighten the lock nut while preventing the adjuster from turning.
Repeat for other valve and then go round the other side of the bike and repeat the entire procedure for the other cylinder. Remember TDC on onecylinder is NOT TDC on the other. Treat each cylinder as a separate entity.
Once adjusted put the rocker covers back on, put the plugs in, reattach the HT leads and replace the lead covers.
Job done.
Note the obvious provision in both head casting and rocker carrier casting for a central spark plug. 4 valves are just around the corner. Why they aren't launching the V85 with the 4V engine is beyond me!
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1917/45376638401_fdab98aa81_z.jpg)
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1920/45376638391_405c89be45_z.jpg)
Pete
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I don't have one, but it basically covers them all. Beautifully done thanks Pete. :thumb:
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Nice write up Pete!
But the hole in the casting for the central sparkplug isn't actually in the center of the cylinder is it? Can it be a provision to make the v85 twin spark instead of four valve.
The hole looks to be the same center distance as the normal sparkplug if you look at the valve position.
-Ulrik
Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk
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It's not in the centre of the 2V combustion chamber, no.
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But a four valve combustion chamber should be on the same centre as the 2v shouldn't it?
Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk
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Depends what they do to the motor dunnit?
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Thanks Pete for an excellent tutorial.
Clearances 4 and 6 thou ?
Glenn
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Never found the need for anything else in the last thirty years.........
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Thanks for the nice and easy step-by-step, Pete!
Sarah
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Well done.question? Has anyone verifyed it as a true "hemi" head. Seeing the success GM (Holden) has gotten w/ thier 2 valve heads a well engineered two valve head may (from a financial & engineering ) point adequate. Just wondering?
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Thanks Pete for an excellent tutorial.
Ditto!
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Thank you sir!
:thumb: :bow:
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Mucho Appreciado :bow:
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Very nice. Thanks.
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Well spoken pete:
"Remember TDC on onecylinder is NOT TDC on the other. Treat each cylinder as a separate entity."
And, now for those analistic literalists like me who want to be sure everyone also understands that it is only the Compression Top Dead Center that should be used for valve-clearance adjustments.
[Ancient, Hoary] 'Geezer
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Pete,
Awesome, man. Can you tell us the size of the box end wrench used to loosen and tighten the locknut and what is the best tool for the adjusting screw.
And I'm guessing the right piston position is right after the intake valve closes, and you can measure the lash on both intake and exhaust at the same time. If you wait until right after the exhaust valve closes that is incorrect?
Thanks!
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Never found the need for anything else in the last thirty years.........
So would you use four and six thou on a LM5?
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So would you use four and six thou on a LM5?
I use four and six on everything post roundfin. The roundfin I do at five and seven because they have a cast iron rocker carrier with a lower C of E.
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Cheers for that.
Righteo then.
I'm adjusting.
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Can you tell us the size of the box end wrench used to loosen and tighten the locknut and what is the best tool for the adjusting screw.
Most Guzzi rocker locknuts are 11mm (wot an odd size), and a small crescent spanner is what I normally use for the adjustment screw. The secret is to keep the wrenches small, so there is more feel.
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11mm for the spanner, anything for the adjuster. I use my fingers or a pair of pliers, this isn't an operation that requires enormous leverage or force. No doubt a string of 'Experts' will come boiling out of the woodwork and say this method isn't satisfactory. They are wrong, it's just fine. I would advise young people to wear gloves because oil and stuff is nasty shit and it really is best to avoid getting it on yerself. I'm older than dirt and have been wallowing in carcinogens all my life so I'm buggered by now and can't be arsed with them but I still bark at youngsters if they don't take precautions because I'm a raging hypocrite! :evil:
Pete
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OK, last question, for adjusting the lash, lefty loosey righty tighty?
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Standard thread.
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:thumb: :boozing:
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:thumb:
Thanks Pete!
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Standard thread.
Uhhh, I DON'T THINK SO.....
If THIS was a Standard WG Thread there'd be a hell of a lot more bitching, some politics, it would get locked, and maybe deleted, and 250 people who don't post regularly would email the admin to bitch about both sides of everything. :boozing:
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Uhhh, I DON'T THINK SO.....
If THIS was a Standard WG Thread there'd be a hell of a lot more bitching, some politics, it would get locked, and maybe deleted, and 250 people who don't post regularly would email the admin to bitch about both sides of everything. :boozing:
Not that kind of standard thread, the kind of thread you put nuts on. Standard right hand thread [emoji16]
Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk
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Depends what they do to the motor dunnit?
Just to bring it back to the standard WG thread drift level [emoji16]
I agree it depends entirely on what they do to the motor, but changing the whole cylinder layout to being able to reuse one rocker carrier casing seems a bit of a stretch even for Guzzi.
I bet the casting was made in preparation for a second sparkplug, it fits with the location, keeping the 2 valve head and in line with what they have done on previous motors. Both two valve big block and the 1400.
So again, I don't think it has ever been intended as a center plug hole for a four valve head. It just doesn't match up with the proper location.
Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk
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Not that kind of standard thread, the kind of thread you put nuts on. Standard right hand thread [emoji16]
Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk
Awwww hell yes, a whole lotta nuts too, we got standard nuts and loose nuts...
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11mm for the spanner, anything for the adjuster. I use my fingers or a pair of pliers, this isn't an operation that requires enormous leverage or force. No doubt a string of 'Experts' will come boiling out of the woodwork and say this method isn't satisfactory. They are wrong, it's just fine. I would advise young people to wear gloves because oil and stuff is nasty shit and it really is best to avoid getting it on yerself. I'm older than dirt and have been wallowing in carcinogens all my life so I'm buggered by now and can't be arsed with them but I still bark at youngsters if they don't take precautions because I'm a raging hypocrite! :evil:
Pete
One reason I like shaft bikes is I can smell chain cleaner on my hands for at least two days after use. That stuff has to be getting through skin. My BIL passed away from lymphoma. When young his Lockheed employed dad made him work at Lockheed where they had him washing parts in a tub of benzene up to his elbows all summer. Always figured that is what did him in.
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"Most Guzzi rocker locknuts are 11mm (wot an odd size)..."
No, odd not at all. You would not believe what is fastened, bolted together, secured and so on with 11 mm nuts here in Europe. Especially we Germans love our 11 mm / 13 mm connections.
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Should have said, "odd size for a Guzzi." It's the only place I can think of offhand that uses a 11mm wrench.
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Y'all remember carbon tetrachloride? Works even better when heated, for degreasing. Also excellent for extracting dampness from ignition wiring. I still have a Pyrene fire extinguisher. MT of course. R3~
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The only thing odd about 11mm is that it's an odd vs even number. Guzzis have to be the easiest bikes in the world for valve adjustments.
Did a 4 cyl DOHC with shim under buckets once - never again.
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do you guy notice Pete's photographic skill has improved tremendously over the years?
or it is the advancement in camera/phone :grin:
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Standard thread.
I asked the question poorly. To reduce the lash you tighten the adjusting screw and to increase it you loosen it?
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Yes.
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Hey Pete, do you replace the Valve Cover gasket every time, or based on inspection?
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Hey Pete, do you replace the Valve Cover gasket every time, or based on inspection?
As an owner who has just done regular checks on a single bike, I've used the same gasket 2-3 times w/o issue. Just make sure the surfaces are wiped clean. Never used a cleaner/solvent and never had one leak. I'm sure Pete (and others) have done many more and will weigh in.
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Depends on where you live and how you ride I'd guess. With 8V's I've generally found that the gaskets usually last well, (They are the same design and material to those of the V9/V7'-III.) but the factors that affect their life are climate and riding style.
If you live somewhere where it's hot or ride hard enough to really get the head temperature up on a regular basis the likelihood of leaks increases in a directly comparable way.
What will be more leak prone will be the tampons. Gaskets will usually go round three or so times reliably before they become too stiff, incompressible and frangible. The Tampons are less forgiving. My advice to people is have a set of gaskets and tampons on hand but only use them if you need to. It'll be the Tampons that will weep first.
Pete
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I refresh those consumables every time. Most likely not necessary but I do it anyway-just because I'm that way.
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"Most Guzzi rocker locknuts are 11mm (wot an odd size)..."
No, odd not at all. You would not believe what is fastened, bolted together, secured and so on with 11 mm nuts here in Europe. Especially we Germans love our 11 mm / 13 mm connections.
mm no wonder why my 7/16 and 1/2" wrenches always seem slightly off :grin:
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'Very nicely done, thank you for taking the time to photograph as well as to post this. Given what a PITA valve adjustments have become on some bikes (remove the tupperware, remove the wad of electrical whatnot above the heads, open up the heads, pull assorted cam this-and-that to find what shims you don't have, go to shop to get, go to other shop to get....) the Guzzi approach is damn near zen-like. If Prizig where to have wandered west now via back roads odds are good he'd have been on something like a V7.
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Looks like Pete is giving us the "finger" in the final pic? Surly that was intentional, you know how they are down there!
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Thanks Pete for the write up it help me a lot ! I did the first service on my 2018 V7III Carbon Shine with 937 miles on it . The right cylinder valves were very tight less than .002 I set the intake at .004 and exhaust at .006 the left cylinder was in spec . Then I checked my 2017 V7III special with 3649 miles that had the first service done around 950 miles at AF1 racing here in Austin and all the valves were still in perfect spec . This was the first time for me to adjust the valves on a Moto Guzzi and I couldn't believe how easy it was .Thanks again Pete !
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Cylinder head cover.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1936/44462313005_050a26ed2f_z.jpg)
Remove screws holding on HT lead cover.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1952/44462312845_ee4b7330fc_z.jpg)
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1952/44652504134_80c413bd9a_z.jpg)
Then remove the cover. Suspenders-snappers will be overjoyed to know it's made of aluminium rather than plastic adding weight and cost to something that ideally should be made of plastic!
Pull off the plug cap and hang the HT lead out of the way. It sits in clips at the top of the head and needs to be popped out to be pulled out of the way.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1923/44652503884_6fe110347b_z.jpg)
Undo the three cap screws retaining the rocker cover and remove it.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1925/44652504104_700c8cc0ac_z.jpg)
Remove the spark plugs, (You'll have to remove all the HT lead dross from the other side to achieve this.). Now the best way to proceed is to tie down the front of the bike and jack it up under the sump to get the back wheel off the ground. Once you can turn the wheel stick the bike in top gear and pull the engine over with the rear wheel. Turn the wheel in the direction it rotates when going forwards and watch the inlet valve rocker. You'll see it open the valve and then close. The piston is now on the compression stroke. Pop your finger into the plug 'ole or use a drinking straw through the hole onto the crown of the piston and keep turning the wheel until the straw starts to descend again or air stops pushing past your finger. Jiggle the wheel back and forth until you are confident the straw is very, very close to its highest point, (Achieved when the piston is at TDC.). Note it doesn't have to be exact. A few degrees each way won't make a blind bit of difference. As long as the tappets are on the base circle of the cams it's all good.
Grab yer feeler gauges and adjust the valves by loosening the locknut on the adjuster and turning the adjuster until the gauge is a smooth sliding fit in the gap betwixt rocker and valve.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1947/45376638411_f08e22d41b_z.jpg)
When you're happy re tighten the lock nut while preventing the adjuster from turning.
Repeat for other valve and then go round the other side of the bike and repeat the entire procedure for the other cylinder. Remember TDC on onecylinder is NOT TDC on the other. Treat each cylinder as a separate entity.
Once adjusted put the rocker covers back on, put the plugs in, reattach the HT leads and replace the lead covers.
Job done.
Note the obvious provision in both head casting and rocker carrier casting for a central spark plug. 4 valves are just around the corner. Why they aren't launching the V85 with the 4V engine is beyond me!
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1917/45376638401_fdab98aa81_z.jpg)
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1920/45376638391_405c89be45_z.jpg)
Pete
I appreciate the completeness of this guide.
question from a newbie here! I would assume that there is a nut on the crankshaft that could be used to rotate the engine in neutral. I am also assuming the rationale for jacking up the bike and turning the engine over via the rear wheel is the front cover contains oil. Hence leaving the front cover in place and rotating the crankshaft via the rear wheel.
Is this true for all Moto Guzzi's? I recall the WHICH V7 TO BUY? thread that mentioned that some Guzzi's have an oil cooled alternator and some don't.
If we are picking nits, don't forget that the early V7s (MK 1) have a dry alternator with slightly higher electrical output than the later models. It's really easy to pop out the cover over the alternator and use that to turn the engine over while checking valve lash. You cannot do that with the wet alternator.
Peter Y.
Which instance would apply to my 2007 Nevada 750? Is it considered a V7 MK1?
If I remove the front cover, is it dry inside or does it contain oil?
Thanks in advance.
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Depends on where you live and how you ride I'd guess. With 8V's I've generally found that the gaskets usually last well, (They are the same design and material to those of the V9/V7'-III.) but the factors that affect their life are climate and riding style.
If you live somewhere where it's hot or ride hard enough to really get the head temperature up on a regular basis the likelihood of leaks increases in a directly comparable way.
What will be more leak prone will be the tampons. Gaskets will usually go round three or so times reliably before they become too stiff, incompressible and frangible. The Tampons are less forgiving. My advice to people is have a set of gaskets and tampons on hand but only use them if you need to. It'll be the Tampons that will weep first.
Pete
Moto Guzzi Tampons?
What is that?
Any (non-female) tampon knowledge that could be shared would be appreciated.
thanks in advance.
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Moto Guzzi Tampons?
What is that?
He's referring to the little rubber gaskets that sit under the valve cover screws.
(https://i34.servimg.com/u/f34/18/91/78/64/670e0910.jpg)
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Ed,
The MkI etc refer to the 1TB models (2012/2013+).
Your 2TB model is pretty close to the 1TB in most ways especially valve adjustment.
Yes you can remove the front cover and spin the motor with a socket.
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do you guy notice Pete's photographic skill has improved tremendously over the years?
or it is the advancement in camera/phone :grin:
Maybe Michael took the photo’s...?
Can we use the same straw in the hole for TDC method for the V85 Peter ?
They don’t have some huge great quietening ramps on the lobes do they ?
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Maybe
Can we use the same straw in the hole for TDC for the V85 Peter ?
Think I can answer that
Categorically No
V85 needs a pink straw, all bikes need their own
Pete may or may not confirm
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I use a white straw, but do hold a green one in reserve.
BTW, Ed, those of us blessed with the 2TB bikes (& at least the early ITB) don't have to worry about tampons. Those new-fangled gadgets don't apply to us. We can ignore them with impunity.
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I use a white straw, but do hold a green one in reserve.
BTW, Ed, those of us blessed with the 2TB bikes (& at least the early ITB) don't have to worry about tampons. Those new-fangled gadgets don't apply to us. We can ignore them with impunity.
You tell'im Leroy, you tell'im the way it is! :grin:
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He's referring to the little rubber gaskets that sit under the valve cover screws.
(https://i34.servimg.com/u/f34/18/91/78/64/670e0910.jpg)
Thanks Beetle. Are you really sure though?
The ones I got at the grocery store came in a pink box and don't look anything like that.
Not sure if I can return the opened box.... :embarassed:
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Ed,
The MkI etc refer to the 1TB models (2012/2013+).
Your 2TB model is pretty close to the 1TB in most ways especially valve adjustment.
Yes you can remove the front cover and spin the motor with a socket.
Thanks Kev! :bow:
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I use a white straw, but do hold a green one in reserve.
BTW, Ed, those of us blessed with the 2TB bikes (& at least the early ITB) don't have to worry about tampons. Those new-fangled gadgets don't apply to us. We can ignore them with impunity.
thanks Malik.
I'm probably not too far away from the adult diaper stage of life, but knowing I'll never have to change my own tampons is some solace.
Gramma's timeless wisdom about avoiding vices: "If you never try it, you'll never miss it!" pretty much sums up my philosophy and game plan regarding tampons.
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The valve cover is electrically insulated from the rest of the engine by the rubber gaskets and fastener insulators.
I laughed when I saw the grounding contact under the cover, I wonder how many owners complained about electric shocks before that was added.
BTW, you can get your straws for free at McDonalds, that's Guzzi content
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Getting ready to do the valves on my V7III Milano. It is my very first time attempting to adjust valves, but this bike is the bike to try on.
Just want to know the final consensus on intake and exhaust, .004" - .006", .005" - .007", or .006" - .008" ?
The bike's sticker says .006" - .008", but I have read all the above published as appropriate for the V7III
Thanks in advance.
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Thank you for that!
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I apologize for bringing this back up. But maybe someone can help me here. I am not sure which straw I am supposed to be using.
(https://i.ibb.co/1MZ6z8W/B95-D7-B4-E-B6-FF-4-D3-A-9-FCB-78-DEA266692-A.jpg) (https://ibb.co/1MZ6z8W)
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I prefer a plain old un sharpened pencil. Wood side down. No flex. BUT< don't use it until the piston is close to the top.
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My straw is a old striped one from fast food w/a small tie wrap on it for a moveable reference point.
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Use a red straw on the right and a green one on the right. Don’t mix them up or it’ll run backwards
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To clarify, use the correct straw in the correct hole. :thumb: Got it.
Thanks for this, Pete! :bow:
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Just a question and maybe Pete can chime in. I have a 2008 Breva 750 and recently did the valve adjustment. All were within spec and only the intake loosened since the last adjustment. There is a very widely used guide to this procedure that I used as a reference. On the Breva you CAN remove the front cover to expose the alternator and the 24mm nut to turn the engine over to find top dead centre rather than using the rear wheel. In this guide it says to turn the nut "anti-clockwise" which is opposite to normal engine rotation. Is the guide incorrect or is there some reason for this? Just wondering,
Cheers, Tim
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That’s the way I do it—pull the alternator cover off and rotate the crank using the big nut there.
Just watch the valves to determine the correct rotation. You should see intake rocker push down, then compression stroke with neither rocker moving and clearance present, then exhaust rocker pushes down, etc.
You can feel TDC because just past that point the wrench will “fall” forward.
At TDC, tap the end of the pushrod to squirt out the oil built up in the gaps. Then measure the true, oil free clearance
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How often do you torque the heads? I know that my V7II Stornello is supposed to have the heads torqued early on at first valve adjustment. But from then on, I'm not sure whether they should ever be torqued again.
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I personally wouldn't be screwing around with retorquing the heads unless I had a head gasket leak. Once they are seated in and retorqued on first service let her be!!!
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I thought the whole re-torque thing went out a decade or more ago.
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No need to re-torque
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Didn't see it mentioned throughout this thread but I always rotate the engine through another cycle and recheck the clearances after setting them the first time.
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V7 II was the last to require a head retorque and then only one time at break-in (unless something funny occurs).
Just a question and maybe Pete can chime in. I have a 2008 Breva 750 and recently did the valve adjustment. All were within spec and only the intake loosened since the last adjustment. There is a very widely used guide to this procedure that I used as a reference. On the Breva you CAN remove the front cover to expose the alternator and the 24mm nut to turn the engine over to find top dead centre rather than using the rear wheel. In this guide it says to turn the nut "anti-clockwise" which is opposite to normal engine rotation. Is the guide incorrect or is there some reason for this? Just wondering,
Cheers, Tim
Pete's not about to chime in as he hasn't been here in years.
What guide are you talking about that says the motor spins anti-clockwise (counterclockwise) and FROM what perspective?!?. It's been a minute since I checked the valves on the MKI, but that doesn't sound right. Looking at the front of the motor from the front I believe it turns clockwise.
But the easy way to check is - spark plugs out, on centerstand or axle roller, in a higher gear, spin rear tire normal direction and WATCH.
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First great job sir . I just checked the valve clearances on my 21 Stone 850 . The left side was pretty much dead on . The right side was a different matter , intake was .006 . Exhaust was .004 ! It kinda looks like someone confused their goes into with the goes outa ! I seriously doubt anyone was in there before me as it has less than 700 mi. On it . Oh also oil sump drain bolt was barely more than finger tight . The rest of the afternoon was spent checking all fasteners I could get to , everything else was ok .
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According to the under seat sticker .004 intake .006 exhaust
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According to the under seat sticker .004 intake .006 exhaust
Interesting that the sticker says that, again.
Background. 4 & 6 seems to be the popular setting, both in specs and in practice for many dealers (and people like Pete) over the years.
But there was a point, on multiple years/models I believe including both my MK I Heron Head Stone and our V7III Carbon Dark where the stickers (at least in some markets) were saying 6 & 8.
Though even still people (like Pete) were continuing to recommend sticking with 4 & 6 (which I do. though I think that's varied with how much I was paying attention to my notes that day).
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Yeah Kev my V7mkII sticker says .006 & .008
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Back in 17 that was stated as wrong by supposedly the guy that designed the new heads. 4&6 are right, sticker wrong.
If confused use 5&7! can't go wrong.
Now back to 0/20 vs 10/55 oil.
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V7 II was the last to require a head retorque and then only one time at break-in (unless something funny occurs).
Pete's not about to chime in as he hasn't been here in years.
What guide are you talking about that says the motor spins anti-clockwise (counterclockwise) and FROM what perspective?!?. It's been a minute since I checked the valves on the MKI, but that doesn't sound right. Looking at the front of the motor from the front I believe it turns clockwise.
But the easy way to check is - spark plugs out, on centerstand or axle roller, in a higher gear, spin rear tire normal direction and WATCH.
I knew Pete has not been active but I thought he posted this new tutorial on V7III valve adjustment.
The guide that I was referring to can be found in the link below. it is a very common guide is available on the SB site as well as on Wild Guzzi.
https://pexi.blogs.com/MGBreva_ML_i011.pdf
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I knew Pete has not been active but I thought he posted this new tutorial on V7III valve adjustment.
The guide that I was referring to can be found in the link below. it is a very common guide is available on the SB site as well as on Wild Guzzi.
https://pexi.blogs.com/MGBreva_ML_i011.pdf
This "new" tutorial was posted back in 2018.
I've never seen that guide. * shrugs * but thanks for posting the link.
Like I said, it's been a bit since the last time I checked valves on the MKI and I have no notes regarding direction of rotation. I could have SWORN it was clockwise when viewed from the front. But I've been wrong before, and will be wrong again.
The V7 MKI and MKIII manuals don't specify, under Valve Clearance all they say is:
"Bring the piston of the left cylinder to
top dead centre making sure that the
reference mark on the crankshaft gear
is up on the perpendicular axis."
So I would recommend you pull the plugs, put it in a high gear, and roll that tire the normal direction of rotation (perhaps with an assistant so you can observe which direction it turns, then get back to us to settle it). If you don't have a centerstand or axle roller just roll the bike itself forward and watch.
I'm assuming you're getting ready to do the job which is why you've asked? Perhaps bad assumption and you've already done it?
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Already did the job. Yes you are correct in that the normal rotation is clockwise when viewed from the front, that is the reason for my question. If you do it following the instructions in that guide you will be 180 out of phase. Took me for a loop until I figured out what was going on.
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Already did the job. Yes you are correct in that the normal rotation is clockwise when viewed from the front, that is the reason for my question. If you do it following the instructions in that guide you will be 180 out of phase. Took me for a loop until I figured out what was going on.
:thumb:
Ah, got it, guess we need to track down the publisher of the questionable material.
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Should the bike be cold or warmed up before doing the valve adjustment ?
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cold
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Should the bike be cold or warmed up before doing the valve adjustment ?
Valve adjustments on everything I've ever seen are cold. The reason is, like tire pressures, the clearance changes when hot and things expand, so specs are set at approximate room temperature of ~ 68°F (20°C).
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Yep. Stone cold, as in overnight.
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Who is this Pete Roper they speak of?
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You can go over to Griso Ghetto forum & find out, tech & dealer from AU.