Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Chuck in Indiana on November 12, 2018, 11:35:47 AM
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I've always said if you look for trouble on an old machine, you *will* find it. :grin:
An old friend suddenly decided he needed a loop after reading Nick's book about riding one in Canada, eh? So he bought an Eldo. Not bad looking, but barely running. He asked if I would take a look at it, and since he *is* an old friend, I said I'd at least tell him what he has. I really don't like working on other people's bikes.. it reminds me of work. Working on mine is play..
But I digress..
Here's the first thing I found:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4811/30908129767_705e95e5f3_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/P6ffa6)2018-11-12_12-20-09 (https://flic.kr/p/P6ffa6) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
See the air filters? Both have been on fire. :shocked:
That probably explains why there are additional fuel shut off valves..oh.. the hoses say, "not for fuel.."
The chokes may not work too well.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4825/31976346378_c9fe6cd0eb_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/QHD8JS)2018-11-12_12-20-28 (https://flic.kr/p/QHD8JS) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
The DPO said the clutch needs adjusted. Uh oh. Hopefully it doesn't need to be adjusted to the scrap pile.. free play at the lever and transmission is ok.
At least it has Gilardonis..
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Throttle cable is toasted...
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OH-BOY!!!!!!! Good luck and keep us posted. Hope he has a good Guzzi slush fund!!
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Typical form over function philosophy. The second pic of the tank paint, chrome, and seat fabric look wonderful. Somebody was far more concerned about image than operation.
Patrick Hayes
Fremont CA
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Throttle cable is toasted...
Oh, yeah.. there's more. I should know better than to get into something like this. :rolleyes: There are three prick punch marks on the crank pulley, but they have no bearing whatsoever on where the piston is on the S cylinder.. so far I've not been able to get it "just right" so I can do a leak down test. One of the fears I have is since the petcocks have obviously been leaking, it's been run with a crankcase full of gas, trashing the bearings, etc.
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Please tell us that the PO paid your friend at least 500 bucks to haul this thing away :shocked:
Dusty
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Typical form over function philosophy. The second pic of the tank paint, chrome, and seat fabric look wonderful. Somebody was far more concerned about image than operation.
Patrick Hayes
Fremont CA
Yeah, I'm afraid it's a "lipstick and rouge" job. When I see black under the valve covers, I immediately think blowby.. that's another reason I'm trying to do a leak down.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4868/45125025684_cfcea09c52_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2bKxy1d)2018-11-12_03-11-37 (https://flic.kr/p/2bKxy1d) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
The spacer on the intake manifold looks suspicious to me, too. Like it's maybe been really hot.
Oh. This would have been exciting shortly, assuming it will actually run..
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1942/45800650412_185d3de49f_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2cMfiGq)2018-11-12_03-16-01 (https://flic.kr/p/2cMfiGq) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
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Why is there a piece of cheese next to the battery? Is to stop the mice eating the wiring loom?
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Was there a milk crate strapped on that?
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Why is there a piece of cheese next to the battery? Is to stop the mice eating the wiring loom?
It's cheesecake, Pete - the deal sweetener.
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That is a mighty fine job of securing the battery and the tape should keep an electrical short from happening for at least 10 minutes of riding. :laugh:
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You! A notable scribe of fixit stories and beyond. Although mine is not a motorcycle story, I've felt your rising pain. If you need an intervention? - - that's what we're here for.
Good fortune, R3~
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Somebody was far more concerned about image than operation.
This is why my bikes are never really pretty. I have very little patience for spit and polish, when the maintenance needs tendin'-to. Oh, I appreciate a pretty bike, until I see a cracked throttle cable and missing choke cables. Probably didn't think it really needed a choke circuit (then cap it off, for cripe's sake!).
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pretty typical for the bikes i tend to buy.
keep looking , and you will find interesting repairs using wood screws , sticky tape and worm drive clips
wit a 40 year old bike you buy 40 years of bodged repairs from the previous owners...
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pretty typical for the bikes i tend to buy.
keep looking , and you will find interesting repairs using wood screws , sticky tape and worm drive clips
wit a 40 year old bike you buy 40 years of bodged repairs from the previous owners...
I had a worm drive clip save my bacon on a late Sunday eve flyover run through the midwest plains. Nothing but a convenience store "hardware" section for assistance after my Guzzi rattled off an important fastener. Worked a treat. I did replace it however, upon completion of the journey. We all know rear brakes are over-rated anyway.
Looks like fun Chuck.
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Keep up the good work Chuck. You'll soon have more great friends than you can count. :grin:
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Why is there a piece of cheese next to the battery? Is to stop the mice eating the wiring loom?
They'd need some dental work if they tried to eat *that* loom :evil: although surprisingly most of the electrics work. It looks like the throttle cable..brittle and cracked.
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You! A notable scribe of fixit stories and beyond. Although mine is not a motorcycle story, I've felt your rising pain. If you need an intervention? - - that's what we're here for.
Good fortune, R3~
Yeah, I may need an intervention. This is probably more than I want to take on for someone else..
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At least the B&S fuel shut off valve is a quality piece. I use em on all my bikes. Cheeper n better than oem.
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I love learning the stories of old machines. They will tell you their life history as you take them apart. Looks like a decent project.
Larry
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Yeah, I may need an intervention. This is probably more than I want to take on for someone else..
I have no problem helping someone with their project provided they are actually doing the work while I advise them. If they don't want to get their fingers dirty, then maybe an old bike is not a good choice for them.
When you purchase an old bike, you have two choices, fix it yourself or pay a pro to work on your project bike, but bring plenty of cash.
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I have no problem helping someone with their project provided they are actually doing the work while I advise them. If they don't want to get their fingers dirty, then maybe an old bike is not a good choice for them.
When you purchase an old bike, you have two choices, fix it yourself or pay a pro to work on your project bike, but bring plenty of cash.
He gave me a blank check, but I told him I really *don't* want a job. I'm guessing it will need the engine rebuilt, carbs rebuilt, new harness, new clutch, etc. I haven't even looked at the rear drive, drive shaft, u joint.. but they are "probably" ok. Tires look good except for being weather checked. I haven't looked at the date on them, but they are probably from when this last ran. Several years ago..
I'll look a little further before telling him to come get it.
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He gave me a blank check, but I told him I really *don't* want a job.
Blank check? Ship it to Charlie, as that is what he does and we know that it will be delivered back to him as a better than new finished bike.
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Well well.. something good for a change. :smiley: I took the crank pulleys off, cleaned them up, marked the timing marks and put a mark at TDC on the right so I could do a leak down on it. Oriented them correctly. :cool:
Both cylinders are ok. The left is 80/75, the Right (shown) is 80/76. Kinda surprised me, really..looking at the color of the heads.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1969/31992230338_c89a697afe_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/QK3xuf)2018-11-13_11-50-49 (https://flic.kr/p/QK3xuf) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
I'll give the owner a call and see what he wants to do. If he wants a "restoration" I'll see if Charlie wants to do it.
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I'll give the owner a call and see what he wants to do. If he wants a "restoration" I'll see if Charlie wants to do it.
Charlie hasn't commented on this old loop yet ... he's probably sprinkling holy water at the door to his shop, hanging garlic braids around, burning candles and incense, and chanting incantations to make sure that this bike doesn't get onto his HF lift by any means ... !
OR maybe he's just itching to get his hands on it, and it'll be a Cinderella story ....
Lannis
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Not making excuses for the original owner... but sometimes, on a loved old ride... things start to slip. I'd hate to think what you guys would have said about my trusty old CB750, had you seen it before I decided to truly rebuild it.
Trailer plug replacement for the ignition switch... (female plug wired in place of switch... plug in pigtailed "male" end to act as key), beercan and hose clamp fixes for exhaust holes, carb screwdriver required to unlock seat lock, endless roadside wiring "temporary fixes", rattlecan touch-ups to prevent rust...
Sometimes, things go sideways on a bike as you own it, and those "temporary" fixes turn out to work "just fine", so you leave them. And then, one day, you realize that what you see as a beloved, reliable old friend, is someone else's "ratbike".
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Temporary fixes are fine, we've all done them. But then get it done right. Too much at stake on 2 wheels. Ever see anyone flying a Rat Airplane?
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So a word on the filters if they are K&N call K&N and they will replace them for free shipping included. Unconditional million mile warranty. I've gotten 2 set replace that were on old Guzzi's I bought.
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So a word on the filters if they are K&N call K&N and they will replace them for free shipping included. Unconditional million mile warranty. I've gotten 2 set replace that were on old Guzzi's I bought.
That include fire damage, though?
Temporary fixes are fine, we've all done them. But then get it done right. Too much at stake on 2 wheels. Ever see anyone flying a Rat Airplane?
No, but not really the same. Plenty of ratty old cars on the road, and plenty of ratty old UTVs banging through the bush, too.
Like I said, not making excuses, just offering a different perspective on it.
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Ever see anyone flying a Rat Airplane?
Actually I have, older gent with an Ercoupe - enough of an oil leak that the nose wheel was dripping with W100, he was on his own maintenance schedule according to him, whatever that meant. Did not see that plane around much longer, but neither did I see an NTSB report....so I guess that’s good.
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Charlie hasn't commented on this old loop yet ... he's probably sprinkling holy water at the door to his shop, hanging garlic braids around, burning candles and incense, and chanting incantations to make sure that this bike doesn't get onto his HF lift by any means ... !
OR maybe he's just itching to get his hands on it, and it'll be a Cinderella story ....
Lannis
Been busy: grumbling about the weather, especially what's coming Thursday; building two 4 spd. tranmissions; ordering parts, making a list of what else I need. :wink:
There's a lot of work already scheduled to do before I'd be able to take on yet another needy old Loop.
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Been busy: grumbling about the weather, especially what's coming Thursday; building two 4 spd. tranmissions; ordering parts, making a list of what else I need. :wink:
There's a lot of work already scheduled to do before I'd be able to take on yet another needy old Loop.
Yea, get in line! Right Charlie?
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Actually I have, older gent with an Ercoupe - enough of an oil leak that the nose wheel was dripping with W100, he was on his own maintenance schedule according to him, whatever that meant. Did not see that plane around much longer, but neither did I see an NTSB report....so I guess that’s good.
I think that means.."It's not getting inspected. If an authorized inspector sees it, it will be grounded." :grin:
Yes, there are a few illegal derelicts around.. but not many.
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Been busy: grumbling about the weather, especially what's coming Thursday; building two 4 spd. tranmissions; ordering parts, making a list of what else I need. :wink:
There's a lot of work already scheduled to do before I'd be able to take on yet another needy old Loop.
Or maybe something like this will show up ....
(https://thumb.ibb.co/b5idx0/Morini.jpg) (https://ibb.co/b5idx0)
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Or maybe something like this will show up ....
(https://thumb.ibb.co/b5idx0/Morini.jpg) (https://ibb.co/b5idx0)
Just finished one, engine for the next arrives in a few weeks.
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/45099184_1777072679081522_1731456455531298816_o.jpg?_nc_cat=106&_nc_ht=scontent-iad3-1.xx&oh=5f55e485feb8f9c4c685ac360faa3013&oe=5C85EF2F)
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The individual that you are doing this for is a very, very lucky guy. To have someone with your skills to even take a look at is phenomenal. :bow:
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Talked to the owner, and he said let's get it running and see what we have..
So.
Decided to set the points and initial timing while I had the plugs out. Rolled it around to the pulley mark to set the point opening, popped off the distributor cap off and find this thing.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4872/30938970137_9e68fd692d_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/P8YiVB)2018-11-14_10-18-14 (https://flic.kr/p/P8YiVB) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
I'm familiar with the Dyna S..this ain't it. :grin: I *hate* not knowing what I'm working on.. what is it? Googling that number on the pickup reveals nothing..
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They worked well. If you have spark, just go with it. Keep in mind some of these need several hundred RPM before they will make spark.
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Yeah, I'm afraid it's a "lipstick and rouge" job. When I see black under the valve covers, I immediately think blowby.. that's another reason I'm trying to do a leak down.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4868/45125025684_cfcea09c52_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2bKxy1d)2018-11-12_03-11-37 (https://flic.kr/p/2bKxy1d) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
The spacer on the intake manifold looks suspicious to me, too. Like it's maybe been really hot.
Oh. This would have been exciting shortly, assuming it will actually run..
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1942/45800650412_185d3de49f_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2cMfiGq)2018-11-12_03-16-01 (https://flic.kr/p/2cMfiGq) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
Hey Harbor freight sells one of those handy dandy extractor kits to deal with that broken valve cover bolt....hmmm that certainly tells you a bit about the PO...oh it doesn't leak yet I'll leave it
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From my database...looks kinda like this one...
PerTronix Ignitor® Solid-State Ignition Systems 1847V
Luck be w/you!
It *does* kind of look like that, but as nearly as I can tell, they don't do Guzzis, or motorcycles even.
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The only way I can see that that ignitions setup would even make the engine run is there would have to be two magnets imbedded at precisely the correct point in the rotor (the two white dots) and fine tuning them one to the other would not be a possibility, to my feeble mind anyway. Or if the magnet is in the plastic side chunk and metal triggers are imbedded in the rotor, the same problem exists.
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It *does* kind of look like that, but as nearly as I can tell, they don't do Guzzis, or motorcycles even.
Pertronix, sold exclusively by Harper's.
http://www.harpermoto.com/early-distributor-ignitor.html
Work well until they don't. Don't leave the ignition powered up without the engine running for more than 30 seconds or it'll be toast.
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Pertronix, sold exclusively by Harper's.
http://www.harpermoto.com/early-distributor-ignitor.html
Work well until they don't. Don't leave the ignition powered up without the engine running for more than 30 seconds or it'll be toast.
:grin: :grin: Thanks for the warning. Fortunately, I haven't done that. I'll let the owner know.
Jeese.. single points. What is the problem with setting points occasionally? <grumbling and shufflin off>
Of course, this is all for my education. I can't bill for learning..
So, for setting initial timing, set at the second mark, put a light on the coil +and - and turn the distributor? Within 30 seconds? :smiley:
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The only way I can see that that ignitions setup would even make the engine run is there would have to be two magnets imbedded at precisely the correct point in the rotor (the two white dots) and fine tuning them one to the other would not be a possibility, to my feeble mind anyway. Or if the magnet is in the plastic side chunk and metal triggers are imbedded in the rotor, the same problem exists.
It wasn't making a lot of sense to me, either. That's why I'm asking. Gotta love the denizens of WG.. :thumb:
Oh, that reminds me. *Almost* time to start thinking about another donation to keep this place afloat..
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Oh no!! I thought everyone realised that my various stories got shelved in the fiction section.
For goodness sake, dont tell your friend that my Loop is in pieces all over the garage floor (or that I regularly ride a scooter) or my street cred will be entirely shot.
Nick
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Oh, that reminds me. *Almost* time to start thinking about another donation to keep this place afloat..
Still a month and a half away. Plenty of time ... !!!
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:grin: :grin: Thanks for the warning. Fortunately, I haven't done that. I'll let the owner know.
Jeese.. single points. What is the problem with setting points occasionally? <grumbling and shufflin off>
Of course, this is all for my education. I can't bill for learning..
So, for setting initial timing, set at the second mark, put a light on the coil +and - and turn the distributor? Within 30 seconds? :smiley:
From "ThisOldTractor.com"
Installation instructions (taken directly from the installation sheet provided by Harper)
Steps:
Installation is very simple and straight forward. It is simply the removal and reinstallation of ignition parts that are normally changed during a tune-up.
Remove the fuel tank from the bike and remove the old ignition coil, distributor cap, rotor, spark plug and coil wires, and points plate.
Replace the old coil with the high output coil from the kit using the existing coil bracket. Note: Do not use any other coil with this igniter unit.
Install the igniter plate in place of the old points plate being careful to reconnect the coil power wire 12 volt positive (+) to the positive (+) side of the coil along with the red wire from the igniter. Connect the black wire to the negative (-) terminal on the coil.
Note: If your bike has a tachometer, the tach wire should be connected to the black (negative) (-) terminal on the coil.
The magnetic rotor is shaped internally to fit over the points cam. It is a slip fit over the cam and will press on easily if aligned properly.
Install the new distributor rotor and distributor cap with the new spark plug and coil wires.
Check the ignition timing with a strobe light by revving the motor until the distributor is fully advanced and adjust the timing by turning the distributor until the full advance mark on the pulley is aligned with the arrow on the engine.
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Thanks again, Charlie..
Uh oh..
Note: Do not use any other coil with this igniter unit.
Unless the Pertronix coil looks like a 45 year old loop coil, there just may be a problem..
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Thanks again, Charlie..
Uh oh..Unless the Pertronix coil looks like a 45 year old loop coil, there just may be a problem..
Since Harper's sells the ignitor unit separately now, I'm not sure this is/was really an issue. My guess is any 3 ohm coil will work just fine.
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That include fire damage, though?
Yes, 1,000,000 unconditional warranty. I've had them bent, twisted and caked with grime so bad the numbers we not visible. Emailed K&N with any dat I could provide (measurements) and new filter were on the way.
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Yes, 1,000,000 unconditional warranty. I've had them bent, twisted and caked with grime so bad the numbers we not visible. Emailed K&N with any dat I could provide (measurements) and new filter were on the way.
I think fire damage is above and beyond. The owner will buy new ones. :smiley:
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Making a parts list and checking it twice.. :smiley: thought maybe I should pull the choke plungers and see if I should order new ones.
There weren't any choke plungers. :shocked: :rolleyes: Do you suppose it was running a little rich?? If at all? Looked for the reason there wasn't any brake light. The power wire from the (bodged) surprise surprise fuse block went to a mounting screw on the brake light switch. :rolleyes: That brake light switch on an Eldo is not particularly easy to get to, btw. :smiley:
Now, a question:
These big hummer lights are (poorly) tied in to the low beam. Will the generator carry them? Should I put a switch on them? Should I unhook them? :smiley:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4838/45848616432_0e2cdd1460_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2cRu9jL)2018-11-15_05-04-05 (https://flic.kr/p/2cRu9jL) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
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Making a parts list and checking it twice.. :smiley: thought maybe I should pull the choke plungers and see if I should order new ones.
There weren't any choke plungers. :shocked: :rolleyes: Do you suppose it was running a little rich?? If at all? Looked for the reason there wasn't any brake light. The power wire from the (bodged) surprise surprise fuse block went to a mounting screw on the brake light switch. :rolleyes: That brake light switch on an Eldo is not particularly easy to get to, btw. :smiley:
Now, a question:
These big hummer lights are (poorly) tied in to the low beam. Will the generator carry them? Should I put a switch on them? Should I unhook them? :smiley:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4838/45848616432_0e2cdd1460_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2cRu9jL)2018-11-15_05-04-05 (https://flic.kr/p/2cRu9jL) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
Oh boy. You have your hands full with that one.
At the very least, I'd switch those lights.
Here's a chart that helps calculate electrical usage:
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/moto_guzzi_loopframe_electricity_usage_by_component.html
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Thanks for that, Charlie.. :thumb: I'll put a switch on it so the rider can run them out on the highway..
Oh boy. You have your hands full with that one.
What can I say? I knew the job was dangerous when I took it. :smiley: There's more..
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"but...wait there's more included in the price ....." :grin:
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Hard to imagine how this shifter shaft 13251165 could get beat up like this.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4857/44994518515_1f2e228bee_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2by1ELB)2018-11-16_08-38-14 (https://flic.kr/p/2by1ELB) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
Harper's has the part for under $100, but the bushings are "contact us for a price."
I'll just chuck it up in the lathe, take a skin cut to make it round again, and make a Delrin bushing. Save the owner a little money that he'll need for other stuff. :smiley:
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Hard to imagine how this shifter shaft 13251165 could get beat up like this.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4857/44994518515_1f2e228bee_k.jpg)
Harper's has the part for under $100, but the bushings are "contact us for a price."
I'll just chuck it up in the lathe, take a skin cut to make it round again, and make a Delrin bushing. Save the owner a little money that he'll need for other stuff. :smiley:
(https://flic.kr/p/2by1ELB)
The bushing is two parts: a softer outer and a harder (Delrin like) inner. The softer outer is to allow for any misalignment when installed. If you make a solid one-piece bushing, the shaft may bind. Been there, done that.
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Thanks for the warning again. This one didn't have the inner bushing. :shocked: No problem with that bad boy aligning, not to mention the shifter was a "little" sloppy. :grin: *Maybe* there will be enough slop in the other end to take care of binding..
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Turned the shaft with my toy lathe, made a Delrin bushing for a light press in the footpeg pedestal and slip fit on the shaft. The bushing is brown in the picture.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4820/30972159557_7cf69bcc0c_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/PbUpYZ)2018-11-16_01-30-32 (https://flic.kr/p/PbUpYZ) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
Total time 43 minutes, material cost nuthin. (Guzzi content)
Works a treat.. :smiley: The only slop in the shifter now is the clevis and transmission arm. If it were mine, I'd fix that stuff. Nope.
There were only two bolts in the battery tray. :rolleyes: "Them ain't important, Cletus.. the battery will hold it down.." Unfortunately, one of the bolts is broken off flush in the frame. Worked on it with some AeroKroil and a punch trying to back it out. No cigar. Can't get a drill, eze out, etc. in there without removing the harness. Nope. Beyond there lays madness. :smiley:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4879/30973162147_ed8969ef82_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/PbZy22)2018-11-16_03-06-02 (https://flic.kr/p/PbZy22) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
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A lot of labour of love going into that bike allready Chuck ! Your a very kind freind.......
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Turned the shaft with my toy lathe, made a Delrin bushing for a light press in the footpeg pedestal and slip fit on the shaft. The bushing is brown in the picture.
Total time 43 minutes, material cost nuthin. (Guzzi content)
Works a treat.. :smiley: The only slop in the shifter now is the clevis and transmission arm. If it were mine, I'd fix that stuff. Nope.
:thumb:
There were only two bolts in the battery tray. :rolleyes: "Them ain't important, Cletus.. the battery will hold it down.." Unfortunately, one of the bolts is broken off flush in the frame. Worked on it with some AeroKroil and a punch trying to back it out. No cigar. Can't get a drill, eze out, etc. in there without removing the harness. Nope. Beyond there lays madness. :smiley:
:sad: Originally, the ground cable from the battery attached at one of those two M10 bolts. Black electrical tape wrapped harness... never a good sign.
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He is undeniably a fantastic guy. :thumb:
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:sad: Originally, the ground cable from the battery attached at one of those two M10 bolts. Black electrical tape wrapped harness... never a good sign.
I told the owner when I saw it that it needed a new harness, and Greg Bender makes them. I also mentioned that I don't want a job. :smiley: Changing out the harness would be one. I'm pretty sure he and his sweetie could do it. The idea is to get it running, and fix what *has* to be fixed. After fixing the brake light mess, all the electrics are working, (I think) :grin: so the harness doesn't *have* to be changed out right now. So far, I don't have much time of actual work on it. I *do* have a fair amount of time involved in learning about loops, though. Those are non billable hours. :grin:
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Where's a guy to stop, when its not your own. All you can do is advise and suggest that its not airworthy. Some understand, some act like they don't.
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Where's a guy to stop, when its not your own. All you can do is advise and suggest that its not airworthy. Some understand, some act like they don't.
I totally understand the "where do you stop" thing, John. :smiley: Airworthy? Not this one. The worst that happens is you coast to the side of the road. :smiley: I will try to make this one as reliable as I can without spending the Big Bux..
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No wonder the DPO didn't put the screws in the battery plate.. they wouldn't go in. A tap drill, tap, and wrench fixes that in a heartbeat.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4895/32055827048_bb160a5e4b_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/QQEuzf)2018-11-17_03-17-53 (https://flic.kr/p/QQEuzf) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
Woke up last night with an inspiration. :smiley: I could make a tractor (Guzzi content) type battery hold down with some Canvas bakelite that I have laying around. That ought to be steam punk enough for an Eldorado..
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4837/45014696095_6de9a991b4_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2bzN5RV)2018-11-17_03-16-35 (https://flic.kr/p/2bzN5RV) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
Ran to the hardware store and bought $2.49 worth of steel, chucked it up in the lathe, and ran a thread on each end.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4820/45877310082_a9154ff244_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2cU2cWS)2018-11-17_03-00-30 (https://flic.kr/p/2cU2cWS) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
Quick and dirty.. I'll finish it up Monday.. but that battery won't be shorting out on something. :grin:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4873/45877305922_441f9163f1_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2cU2bH9)2018-11-17_03-00-06 (https://flic.kr/p/2cU2bH9) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
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But now you don't have anywhere to carry your cheese! :evil:
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Ran to the hardware store and bought $2.49 worth of steel, chucked it up in the lathe, and ran a thread on each end.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4820/45877310082_a9154ff244_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2cU2cWS)2018-11-17_03-00-30 (https://flic.kr/p/2cU2cWS) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
Quick and dirty.. I'll finish it up Monday.. but that battery won't be shorting out on something. :grin:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4873/45877305922_441f9163f1_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2cU2bH9)2018-11-17_03-00-06 (https://flic.kr/p/2cU2bH9) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
:thumb:
I sometimes do the same sort of thing, except I buy battery holddown "J" bolts at Autozone for around the same $$ and use a piece of 1" wide steel flat stock.
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Oh Oh , greasy stuff on the table saw. That's a wood workers no no. :grin:
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Oh Oh , greasy stuff on the table saw. That's a wood workers no no. :grin:
There's nothing greasy on the table saw. Remember, those air cleaners have been on fire. There is a little "ash" on them. :evil: :grin: I cut plastic and aluminum on the table saw. Mostly it makes a fine workbench, though..
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Just bustin your chops Chuck, I know you know better. I once ran a 50 dollar plank of white ash through my table saw for a customers furniture project. I had forgotten that I had used its flat cast iron surface as a platen to surface a rusty cylinder head off a two stroke engine. Needless to say I had to fork out another 50 bucks to replace the badly stained ash. Never again will I allow metal working stuff into my wood shop. The two just don't mix well. :grin:
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I sometimes do the same sort of thing, except I buy battery holddown "J" bolts at Autozone for around the same $$ and use a piece of 1" wide steel flat stock.
But but.. canvas bakelite is an electrical insulator. Besides, I have a lot of it.. :grin:
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This is the connecting rod bearings from my 79 Triumph 750 that was ridden for about 10 minutes with no oil pressure...The other rod set looks the same. I confirmed that the engine had no oil pressure with a known accurate gauge...checked a few things and then the pressure was ok just like magic . Rode it a few hundred more miles before just recently disassembling the engine to clean the crank sludge trap..Guys said the bearings and crank would be wiped out....The old turd survived somehow...
(http://i.imgur.com/FASPwMZl.jpg) (https://imgur.com/FASPwMZ)
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Getting fairly close to finishing up.. but.. the new air cleaners interfere with each other. Yeah, I could cave man them on there, but they'd be bent up, etc. Is there any reason I shouldn't chuck these things up and turn that flange off of them? If I did, I could get at least 3/8" more clearance on each side.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4855/32104360228_f8f516c4ac_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/QUXeNd)2018-11-20_03-08-29 (https://flic.kr/p/QUXeNd) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
Oh, reading on this old tractor, it says to initially set the carb slides with 10mm from the body to the cutaway. That seems like a lot.. I'm measuring .210" after reassembly. <scratching head>
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Not sure what the flange's function is originally....could be a shame to mod a rare original part.The later velocity stack for the T series should work well and hasn't got a flange ; might even work better due tot the internal necking.http://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=3201. only problem is having to pen the wallet !
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Not sure what the flange's function is originally....could be a shame to mod a rare original part.The later velocity stack for the T series should work well and hasn't got a flange ; might even work better due tot the internal necking.http://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=3201. only problem is having to pen the wallet !
Good point.. Thanks. Unfortunately, they call for a different set of air filters for the velocity stack, and I (he) already has the filters for the flange.
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Getting fairly close to finishing up.. but.. the new air cleaners interfere with each other. Yeah, I could cave man them on there, but they'd be bent up, etc. Is there any reason I shouldn't chuck these things up and turn that flange off of them? If I did, I could get at least 3/8" more clearance on each side.
Oh, reading on this old tractor, it says to initially set the carb slides with 10mm from the body to the cutaway. That seems like a lot.. I'm measuring .210" after reassembly. <scratching head>
Since someone has already machined the rings down on them, you may as well finish the job and alter them however you see fit.
I think you misunderstood my "basic setup" procedure - set the carb slides so that the opening is 10 mm wide on the engine (tall) side of the slide. I just do that by eye, though you can measure and compare to get them about the same for start-up. Of course, you'll need to twiddle things for proper running from the "basic setup".
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Since someone has already machined the rings down on them, you may as well finish the job and alter them however you see fit.
I think you misunderstood my "basic setup" procedure - set the carb slides so that the opening is 10 mm wide on the engine (tall) side of the slide. I just do that by eye, though you can measure and compare to get them about the same for start-up. Of course, you'll need to twiddle things for proper running from the "basic setup".
I thought they must have been modified already. I couldn't imagine a production part with a razor edge.
Oh. 10mm "wide" :grin: Got it. Thanks, Charlie.. :thumb:
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If your trying to ft the K&N filters like the ones you pictured at the start, they are not fitted right IMHO. When fitted the closed end will press against each other, as in rotate them 180 deg. When new, not hard to fit. When old and hard, a pain.
I ended up going with a Uni filter. Fits much better.
Tom
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How tight should the generator belt be? This one is pretty tight (maybe a half inch at the middle) and that can't be a good thing. I read in this old tractor about making a brace to beef up the generator mount, but that is beyond the scope of what I'm doing here. Making a shim for the pulley would just take a few minutes.
I could easily spend a hundred hours on this old girl..
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How tight should the generator belt be? This one is pretty tight (maybe a half inch at the middle) and that can't be a good thing. I read in this old tractor about making a brace to beef up the generator mount, but that is beyond the scope of what I'm doing here. Making a shim for the pulley would just take a few minutes.
I could easily spend a hundred hours on this old girl..
Loose is better than tight. Sounds like a thin shim might be necessary.
If there's any clearance between the generator and the "saddle" of the engine case at the locating pin, you might want to make a shim for there also.
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Thanks again, Charlie..
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<sigh> I thought I was about to finish up. I assumed the petcocks were leaking, and that was the reason for the "not for fuel" line and lawnmower fuel shutoffs. While I was ordering, I ordered new petcocks, and a fuel cap gasket to replace the one that is MIA. Just brought the tank in to install the new stuff, and I see this.. :rolleyes:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4903/31048614997_89b168e100_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/PiEgwe)2018-11-21_11-27-38 (https://flic.kr/p/PiEgwe) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
Hopefully, this mess is from before the DPO put the tank liner in it, and it's not leaking. If it is..
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By the looks of it, it is time for another tank or major reconstructive surgery, just went through that myself. Good luck! DonG
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Chuck,
On my Eldo I machined the flanges off the "velocity stacks" then pushed the K&Ns on (same model as what's in the first picture you posted). Then rotated them around so they are lined up back-to-back, center line of the motor. Makes for a tidy, compact package. I bought an "insulated lunch bag" well padded, zipper closure, for my tool kit. It slips perfectly into the space between the battery & the K&Ns. The little tool box on my Police model Eldo now contains the fuse box.
Re older, hardened K&Ns .....work 'em over w/a heat gun or old hair dryer until quite warm to the touch, rubber will soften dramatically. A quick shot of silicone spray & they'll slip on slicker-n-eel snot.
Ron
NOTE: "borrowing" wife's hair dryer NOT recommended
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By the looks of it, it is time for another tank or major reconstructive surgery, just went through that myself. Good luck! DonG
I don't have any choice at this time but to put the new petcocks and cap gasket on, put fuel in it and watch it closely to see if it's leaking. If it is, it's beyond what I'm willing to take on. :sad:
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If the generator belt is too tight, it'll eventually strip the block where it bolts up or down. That becomes another problem.
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Chuck,
One more thing on the filters. If you bought these: http://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=164_166&products_id=1901 then you remove the velocity stacks and they clamp directly to the carb.
For the gen belt. The pulley on the engine is a split pulley. There should be shims between the halves and any spare shims should be under the 3 bolts that hold the pulley on. Add or remove shims between the pulley halves to get the right tension.
Tom
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To answer all the above on the gen pulley, I made a shim to loosen up the belt.
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One more thing on the filters. If you bought these: http://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=164_166&products_id=1901 then you remove the velocity stacks and they clamp directly to the carb.
If you use the Tonti style "velocity stacks" or machine the rings off of the original Loop ones, those K&Ns will slip on fine. I would never run them without some sort of stack - incoming air would have to flow over a rather abrupt step and that can have a detrimental effect on performance.
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If you use the Tonti style "velocity stacks" or machine the rings off of the original Loop ones, those K&Ns will slip on fine. I would never run them without some sort of stack - incoming air would have to flow over a rather abrupt step and that can have a detrimental effect on performance.
That's what I was thinking. Thanks again, Charlie. All that stuff is water under the bridge, now. Now, I've lost an idiot light for whatever reason.. :rolleyes: maybe it's telling me who's the idiot.. :grin: and reading about the idiosyncrasies of the loop wiring diagrams. Oh, and comparing that to the bodged electrical system. It really..really needs a new harness and I don't want to do it. I told the guy I would get it running and see what he had. I will do that. It should run now, once it gets fuel. Never have figured out how to set initial timing with the Pertronix system. Those air cleaners that have been on fire give me pause. I'd like the timing to be in the ball park when it's cranked for real. :smiley:
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Charlie, you are right. I have heard of using the Toni style stacks. Before the internet and thoughts from others at your fingertips, I did install this filter direct to the carb. Now I'm running the stock stack and a Uni filter set that fits nicely.
Chuck, May I suggest just installing the dist, cap and mark the dist. where the #2 plug contact is. Then rotate the engine until #2 is at TDC with both valves closed and verify that the TDC mark on the pulley lines up with the arrow on the timing cover. If the mark does not liine up, remove and adjust the pulley. Then put the dist. rotor on and see where it lines up in relation to your mark on the dist.. IF it's very close I would give it a try and with a timing light see where your at.
Just my 2 cents,
Tom
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Was there a milk crate strapped on that?
What d'you got against milk crates? Mine works great...just have to watch out for the KLR riders, they'll steal'em!
KJ
(https://thumb.ibb.co/nw7upq/MG-Ambo.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nw7upq)
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The things you find.. it looks as if the DPO finally gave up after the fire and decided to get rid of it. :smiley: He lined the tank to stop the leak (s), and put her on ebay. Of course, that's purely conjecture on my part.. but..
At any rate the liner has it glued together and the vent holes totally plugged. Maybe it would have been a good idea to seal it up when sloshing it with something other than the cap? :rolleyes:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4840/44198410330_2fca28543a_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2akEpxq)2018-11-23_09-18-24 (https://flic.kr/p/2akEpxq) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
I have the stop watch running when I'm "working.." 26 minutes to get it apart, clean out the holes, put a new gasket on it, and reassemble without damaging the cap. I'll try not to break my arm patting myself on the back. :grin:
Now for the *real* problem.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4873/46015254361_e616d8606a_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2d7dcYv)2018-11-23_11-06-54 (https://flic.kr/p/2d7dcYv) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
Obviously, this isn't going to get it.
What I'm wondering is this. I have an antique (naturally) big hunker soldering iron. I'm wondering if I could clean this area well with my die grinder and soft solder all around the boss?
I *could* silver solder it, but that would require all the hassle of totally cleaning and drying the tank for several days, etc.. and.. burn up the DPOs tank liner.
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What a mess. :angry: Soldering it is worth a try, although it looks like someone may have tried that already? I'm sure you'd do a much better job. FWIW, the thread inside the bung is M12-1.00.
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Ok, I'll give it a try. I cleaned up the crud out of the threads as best I could by scraping them with a 5/16-24 tap. Of course it's the wrong diameter, but the thread pitch is very close. I'll check at the remaining :angry: hardware store and see if they have a tap.
Thanks again, Charlie.. I appreciate the help. :thumb:
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Marine Tex would work. It's like JB Weld but way better for marine applications and works.
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Marine Tex would work. It's like JB Weld but way better for marine applications and works.
Thanks for that, Tom. That will be my backup plan.
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Ok, so here was the original problem. The tank had rusted away on this side of the boss. The red you see is the tank liner. There is no choice at this point but to try soft solder. Silver solder would melt the tank liner and contaminate the attempted repair.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4909/44213062680_81f3481889_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2amXvb9)2018-11-24_10-44-51 (https://flic.kr/p/2amXvb9) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
Continued with the carbide burr and ate out the rest of the previous soldering job and some kind of epoxy.
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If it leaks, I'll always thought it shouldn't have. :grin: I got a pretty good fillet of solder around the boss, and feathered out to good metal on the tank. Hopefully.
There are no M12X1 taps locally. There are M12X1.75, 1.5, and 1.25. Amazon to the rescue again. It'll be here Monday, along with Tom's Marine Tex, just in case.
Another 43 minutes to do this.. :smiley: but we should be about done. Hopefully..
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4885/46029271901_2ced27161a_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2d8s3Ue)2018-11-24_11-26-11 (https://flic.kr/p/2d8s3Ue) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
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Marine-Tex is great stuff but I don't know if I'd use it there..not that it matters I suppose. I'd put more faith in solder or better yet brazing.
But I know you want to be shut of the whole thing. At least the sensible part of you.
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Marine-Tex is great stuff but I don't know if I'd use it there..not that it matters I suppose. I'd put more faith in solder or better yet brazing.
But I know you want to be shut of the whole thing. At least the sensible part of you.
This ain't my first rodeo on brazing.. :grin: the heat involved would melt that tank liner, and contaminate it to the point where it would never tin.
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This is turning in to a very entertaining thread thanks Chuck. :thumb: :grin:
Between you and Canuck, I can see WG'ers entertained throughout your winter. :laugh:
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If it leaks, I'll always thought it shouldn't have. :grin: I got a pretty good fillet of solder around the boss, and feathered out to good metal on the tank. Hopefully.
There are no M12X1 taps locally. There are M12X1.75, 1.5, and 1.25. Amazon to the rescue again. It'll be here Monday, along with Tom's Marine Tex, just in case.
Another 43 minutes to do this.. :smiley: but we should be about done. Hopefully..
:thumb:
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Fascinating and enlightening WOW I wish I knew half of what you know. Thank god for you and this forum.
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This is turning in to a very entertaining thread thanks Chuck. :thumb: :grin:
Between you and Canuck, I can see WG'ers entertained throughout your winter. :laugh:
Throughout the Winter?? :shocked: I hope not. :grin: I have 17:02 "billable" hours in it now. *Assuming* the tank doesn't leak, another hour or so should get it running down the road to see if the transmission transmits, the rear drive drives, the generator generates, etc. :grin: I still wonder about the Distinguished Previous Owner saying the clutch needs "adjusted." This bike hasn't run for years. How would he know? Everything else is working.
Theoretically, this is a low mileage Eldo. That's why I was blindsided by the tank. And the bodged wiring. :grin: I should have known better. I've seen some real (ahem) turds (Mark's definition) at MG Classics over the years. Back in the busy days there, he'd occasionally give me one to get running when I was out in SoCal, bored, and needed something to do. :grin:
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Well Chuck, I am pleased that you get bored and need something to do. :grin:
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Chuck,
You're a good friend. That's a project that keeps on giving... Lots o' entertainment value.
Larry
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i've had good results soldering on petrol tap bosses.
if i cant find the original weird tap from a rebuild, i simply grind the old off.
i make a brass boss for the normal guzzi tap , and solder it in place.
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Chuck,
You're a good friend. That's a project that keeps on giving... Lots o' entertainment value.
Larry
Thanks. I've been entertained and learned many things about loops all week. :smiley:
But wait! There's more! Lots more, but a guy has to draw the line somewhere..
Speaking about learning about loops, this one came with no breather or transmission breather hoses. I've figured out where the engine breather hose goes, but haven't seen any pix of the stock setup for the transmission breather. I'm thinking of just zip tying it vertically to the frame tube.. is there a better idea?
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Thanks. I've been entertained and learned many things about loops all week. :smiley:
But wait! There's more! Lots more, but a guy has to draw the line somewhere..
Speaking about learning about loops, this one came with no breather or transmission breather hoses. I've figured out where the engine breather hose goes, but haven't seen any pix of the stock setup for the transmission breather. I'm thinking of just zip tying it vertically to the frame tube.. is there a better idea?
It just goes vertical for four to six inches then points down. Nice work on the solder, I can only do it if I strip it all down to clean metal. You should open a radiator shop!
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It just goes vertical for four to six inches then points down. Nice work on the solder, I can only do it if I strip it all down to clean metal. You should open a radiator shop!
Thanks, John. Had a job. Don't want another one.. :smiley:
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Thanks. I've been entertained and learned many things about loops all week. :smiley:
But wait! There's more! Lots more, but a guy has to draw the line somewhere..
Speaking about learning about loops, this one came with no breather or transmission breather hoses. I've figured out where the engine breather hose goes, but haven't seen any pix of the stock setup for the transmission breather. I'm thinking of just zip tying it vertically to the frame tube.. is there a better idea?
I run the trans. breather hose vertically as far as possible. I usually terminate it in the "u-channel" of the frame.
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I run the trans. breather hose vertically as far as possible. I usually terminate it in the "u-channel" of the frame.
Will do. Thanks again, Charlie.. :thumb:
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Crap. It's still leaking. Put fuel in, looked ok. Came back a half hour later, and the petcock was wet. :sad: Can't tell where it originates. Aircraft fuel has dye in it to make fuel leaks show up. Maybe I'll try some avgas..
I wonder if the baby powder trick like you use to find oil leaks would work? Anyone have any experience?
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Crap. It's still leaking. Put fuel in, looked ok. Came back a half hour later, and the petcock was wet. :sad: Can't tell where it originates. Aircraft fuel has dye in it to make fuel leaks show up. Maybe I'll try some avgas..
I wonder if the baby powder trick like you use to find oil leaks would work? Anyone have any experience?
:sad: The spray on foot powder? Should work, any type of fluid would leave a track.
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Bummer.
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If it leaks, I'll always thought it shouldn't have. :grin: I got a pretty good fillet of solder around the boss, and feathered out to good metal on the tank. Hopefully.
There are no M12X1 taps locally. There are M12X1.75, 1.5, and 1.25. Amazon to the rescue again. It'll be here Monday, along with Tom's Marine Tex, just in case.
Another 43 minutes to do this.. :smiley: but we should be about done. Hopefully..
[
Nice Job, just a thought though, the wiping metal used for joining lead sheathed cable or body filling might have been easier to use it has a wider temperature range and is easily formed wiping with a Moleskin.
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<sigh> There's a pin hole all right. See it to the left of the soldered area?
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4907/32204242578_2d19ff5ee1_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/R4MakG)2018-11-27_11-02-36 (https://flic.kr/p/R4MakG) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
My best guess is that whole area is rusted almost to the point of rusting through. The red at the bottom is the tank liner and whatever kind of goo on the outside failing. :rolleyes:
I'm thinking the only viable repair would be to cut out the bottom of the tank and weld all new metal in there. Of course, that would involve getting the old liner out of there, the repair, and repaint of the tank. The other side should get some attention, too, at this point. Certainly not cost effective to pay someone to do it. I have a spot blaster, and could maybe blast all these areas and put Tom's Marine tex on it..
Anyone have a good Eldo tank? :smiley:
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Just had another thought.. I've lined a couple of tanks with Caswell epoxy that turned out beautifully. That might be cost effective..
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What you have to do is clean the tank bottom, blast off the paint and rust etc. induce about 5PSI air pressure through a pet cock, don't over do it or the tunnel will bulge, as me how I know! Block the tunnel so it cant move, use a 4x4 or so piece of wood. Put a little water and dish soap mix on the whole bottom, have a cocktail and inspect for leaks.
(https://i.ibb.co/7jz4j38/IMG-0736.jpg) (https://ibb.co/7jz4j38)
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Ewww, that's nasty looking, too.. :smiley: did you manage to save it?
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Just had another thought.. I've lined a couple of tanks with Caswell epoxy that turned out beautifully. That might be cost effective..
You'd still need to get the old liner out though. That's the "hard part", especially if you don't want to repaint the tank. I removed failed POR-15 with MEK (just a gallon, tank turned to a different position every hour... for days, the vapor actually does the job), followed up with 1 1/8" fine drywall screws with the tank tumbling in the dryer on "fluff". I made this special cap to make sure nothing got out and ruined the paint.
http://thisoldtractor.com/moto_guzzi_loopframe_gas_cap_replacement_-_sacrificial.html
(http://thisoldtractor.com/mg_images/gas_cap_sacrificial_1.jpg)
It's in no way "sacrificial", being more durable than the tank it was attached to. :wink:
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Find a different tank, hopefully in better shape. might as well cut your losses now. Its like you said, you don't want a career out of a stinking tank, looks like you could have 40 hours in that repair and unless its the last one available, it might not be worth it.
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Nice, Charlie.. :thumb:
I just talked to Mark at Moto Guzzi Classics, and he said, "Sure, I have some tanks. How good does he want?" Then, in typical Mark fashion, he tried to talk me out of buying one, :grin: and putting Caswell epoxy in it. "It's the only one that works."
Basically said the same thing to me, as far as installing it. He said, "Why not gamble 50 bux or so on acetone and a Caswell kit instead of 3-500 on a different tank?" You have to love him.. what a character. :grin:
We're going to SoCal in 3 weeks, so I could pick out which one the owner gets if the Caswell doesn't work.
Personally, I think the owner should get the nicest one he has and be done with it.. but I'll talk to him about that. Since he's paying labor, that Caswell job won't be cheap, either.
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Find a different tank, hopefully in better shape. might as well cut your losses now. Its like you said, you don't want a career out of a stinking tank, looks like you could have 40 hours in that repair and unless its the last one available, it might not be worth it.
Yeah, that's my thought, too, John..Shirley :smiley: I wouldn't have 40 (billable) hours in it, but it would be more than it's worth.
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Yeah, that "billable hours" concept will bite you in the butt :cry:
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Yeah I ended up saving that tank for now, it had a really nice original paint job, used 1 pound of silver bearing solder by time I was done, didn't record how many hours spent but it was a few. DonG
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Yeah I ended up saving that tank for now, it had a really nice original paint job, used 1 pound of silver bearing solder by time I was done, didn't record how many hours spent but it was a few. DonG
Yeah, I get it. I can blissfully while away the hours on*my* stuff doing something like that. I can't when somebody is paying for my time. It just doesn't pencil out for them. :smiley: