Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Peter949 on November 30, 2018, 04:04:16 PM
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I am replacing the clutch and carrier bearing on my Cali II. The universal joint 'journal' has been spinning on the inner race of the carrier bearing, and it is now a loose fit into the carrier bearing. :sad:
The fit is so loose that I do not think that Loctite will prevent it from eventually spinning.
Can I simply put the other end of U-joint (that 'was' toward to transmission) into the inner race of the carrier bearing?
(https://i.ibb.co/0qmFD7N/use-loctite-bearing-retainer-press-into-carrier-brg.jpg) (https://ibb.co/0qmFD7N)
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It will be too big OD but you could have it turned down by a machinist to fit. I was going to have Tazio do it to mine and then he changed jobs where he couldn't bring parts in to work.
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There are some few u-joints that are machined correctly on both ends, if yours is one of them, then go for it.
You could always try using a punch (I use an "automatic punch") to make rows of divots around where it fits into the carrier bearing. This effectively makes the o.d. larger and it will fit tightly once again. Combined with Loctite, it does a good job for very little $$.
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The bearings are coming up on my CAL II. So is replacing the bearing and universal joint out of the question? I know nothing about that job.
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Have to pull off swingarm and a circlip, it's right there. Rear drive and drive shaft too.
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So on MG, the joint, carrier, boot, and the tool are about 300us. A used swingarm on tlm.nl is €100. I would imagine that is an expensive job at a shop. I have access to a press and tools to complete it. If I run into the same issue, frankly, scared to look, I would imagine I would go with replacing parts? Any thoughts?
http://shop.tlm.nl/en/used-swingarm-california-2-us-29540200a-moto-guzzi
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So on MG, the joint, carrier, boot, and the tool are about 300us. A used swingarm on tlm.nl is €100. I would imagine that is an expensive job at a shop. I have access to a press and tools to complete it. If I run into the same issue, frankly, scared to look, I would imagine I would go with replacing parts? Any thoughts?
http://shop.tlm.nl/en/used-swingarm-california-2-us-29540200a-moto-guzzi
Joint can be rebuilt (John Chicoine will do it for $150), carrier bearing and boot are inexpensive enough. What tool? A length of steel bar works to press the bearing out and a suitably sized socket for pressing it back in.
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Why do you need another swing arm?
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You need a special tool to press the U-joint into the bearing.
It has to be pressed in - in a direct line, so you have to support it so that it does not leave the center line.
Easy with the correct tool.
(The diameter of the part that goes into the bearing is Ø30 minus - and the other side is : 30,2mm. You cannot with your eyes see the difference.)
Rolf
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LOL, cause thatshow this bike has been. I go to repair something and find the whole part is no good. Just in case I case.
http://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=4677
Here is the tool. I would most likely find something laying around the shop at work to press out the joint and back on. on the other hand it is nice to just have the right tool and do the job and not have to reinvent an tool that already exists.
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LOL, cause thatshow this bike has been. I go to repair something and find the whole part is no good. Just in case I case.
http://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=4677
Here is the tool. I would most likely find something laying around the shop at work to press out the joint and back on. on the other hand it is nice to just have the right tool and do the job and not have to reinvent an tool that already exists.
I normally make tools as necessary, but for $37.67, I'd be buying that sucker.
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You need a special tool to press the U-joint into the bearing.
It has to be pressed in - in a direct line, so you have to support it so that it does not leave the center line.
Easy with the correct tool.
(The diameter of the part that goes into the bearing is Ø30 minus - and the other side is : 30,2mm. You cannot with your eyes see the difference.)
Rolf
Never needed one. <shrug>
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I normally make tools as necessary, but for $37.67, I'd be buying that sucker.
Me too, but I'd need to make a reducer for the (smaller o.d.) drum brake u-joints.
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No need to make a smaller one. Just put in some sheet of plastic to take out the difference in outer diameter.
Rolf
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No need to make a smaller one. Just put in some sheet of plastic to take out the difference in outer diameter.
Rolf
Uh, yeah, like I wrote: "I'd need to make a reducer".
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Recently changed my U joint and bearing on my Cal II. The new U joint slid into the bearing pretty easily. After installation I saw increased pressure in the rear wheel housing and a new vibration. Wondering if something is installed wrong. Parts from MG cycle which I trust. Hate to buy another U joint to see if that's the problem.
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Recently changed my U joint and bearing on my Cal II. The new U joint slid into the bearing pretty easily. After installation I saw increased pressure in the rear wheel housing and a new vibration. Wondering if something is installed wrong. Parts from MG cycle which I trust. Hate to buy another U joint to see if that's the problem.
Here we go trying to solve a problem with a keyboard. :smiley: First, I really doubt the u joint is the problem. It should be a light press into the bearing, though.
After installation I saw increased pressure in the rear wheel housing and a new vibration.
I'm not sure what you mean unless it is the four acorn nuts had to be tightened excessively to pull things together? If that is the case, maybe too much lube in the splines?
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iirc? Green Loctite has some 'filler' capability? R3~
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Perhaps an obvious question to some, but on the drum brake Eldorado, which end of the U-Joint inserts into the carrier bearing? The tapered end on the non-tapered? I'm assuming the tapered, but it would be irritating to get it wrong.
Thanks
Nick
(https://i.ibb.co/4MZFHBY/DSCN4575.jpg) (https://ibb.co/4MZFHBY)
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Perhaps an obvious question to some, but on the drum brake Eldorado, which end of the U-Joint inserts into the carrier bearing? The tapered end on the non-tapered? I'm assuming the tapered, but it would be irritating to get it wrong.
Thanks
Nick
(https://i.ibb.co/4MZFHBY/DSCN4575.jpg) (https://ibb.co/4MZFHBY)
The tapered end goes into the carrier bearing.
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Perfect - thanks Charlie.
Nick
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Just my anecdotal experience. The u-joint spun for so long in the carrier bearing that the heat build-up cracked the inner race of the bearing into four pieces. Never seen the like. Kept the bearing to remember. I had taken off the swingarm to replace the boot and found the mess. I bought the German driveshaft kit and made the fixture to press in the bearing.
YMMV.
Larry
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I'm not sure what you mean unless it is the four acorn nuts had to be tightened excessively to pull things together? If that is the case, maybe too much lube in the splines?
The previous owner installed a breather on the rear housing. I have put a few thousand miles on the bike with the breather not spitting any oil out. First ride oil was blowing out like crazy. It was not tranny oil- hub oil was surprisingly dirty and low. Kept happening so I plugged the vent. The vibration is at higher RPM's, kind of a resonating vibration-almost pulsing.
Not real intrusive, just different.
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Have you checked that the swing arm pins are the same depth side to side? DonG
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yes i did, thanks.