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General Discussion / Re: Cycle Gear, Fayetville Ar!
« Last post by LowRyter on April 19, 2019, 09:24:44 PM »
Watch out for the house brand Bilt, not sure how it is now but they where known to just fall apart.

I have a pair of Built brand gloves that have lasted me a long while.  I have thrown  Alinpestars and Techinks gloves in the trash can from wearing out.

I agree with the Built is the low cost house brand but I don't agree that a big name is any better. 

I'd say shop around.   :thumb:

I have some Sedici stuff as well.  I think they sell in other stores too.
General Discussion / Re: G5 V1000 Finds
« Last post by not-fishing on April 19, 2019, 09:20:02 PM »
This thread is murder.

$1500 or so on the East Coast.

$3500 on the West Coast.

and unfortunately I'm on the West Coast.

then again #3 son and I keep talking about renting a 8x12 uhaul trailer, big enough for a couple of bikes and making a trip
General Discussion / Alexa....Turn on some polka music
« Last post by Perazzimx14 on April 19, 2019, 09:14:58 PM »
Well with Easter in 2 days its time to make some kielbasa!

A few months ago a friend at work gave me a 80lb Kune Kune pig that she raised. The last 1/4 I deboned and froze in anticipation of making Easter keilbasa.

3,265g of Kune Kune pork thawed. This is a fatty heritage breed and is suprior to anything you'll find mass produced. It is the best most flavorful and succulent pork I have ever eaten. 

Spices are simple - Salt, black pepper, garlic,  a wee bit of dried marjrum and cure #1.

Meat thawed and spices staged

Spices, water and garlic in the Ninja for a quick spin to mince the garlic

Spices and cure dumped on the chunked up meats tosses to coat and awaiting a grind through a 1/4" plate.

Grinding station all set up. Bowl of meats, grinder and catch can.

Meats ground and mixed with any remaining liquid from the bowl. Covered with plastic wrap and put in a 37 degree fridge for 12 to 14 hours to cure.

We'll pick things up in the morning with stuffing natural casings. drying and then smoking............ .

And yes when we make sausages we crank up the polka music and drink beer. Life is good!
The changeover point according to the factory was in the second quarter 2012. While the changeover point numbers are a bit rubbery I've never seen a 2013 model with flatties so he should be good to go. Simple way to find out is pop a rocker cover and look, ten minutes work on a Griso.


Yup, copy that.  I'll let him know.  I should be able to come up with a picture of what he will be looking at so he can get a warm fuzzy when he pops the cover off.  He is new to Guzzi... send him off with a 6mm Allen and get his first maintenance lesson.

Thanks Pete,

General Discussion / Re: 2015 v7 Oil Breather Issues - Not overfill
« Last post by poppe on April 19, 2019, 09:01:38 PM »
No, it's not normal. The HT wires do get a bit squashed in there, but don't melt. When you change the plugs & caps (I use CR9EK plugs & XD05f caps from NGK), I'd be tempted to replace the HT leads as well.

To replace the breather lines, any appropriate hose will do, the OEM ones are too expensive. While you are at the shop getting those, also pick up some hose for the fuel (gas) overflow. It too gets hard at the tank end & breaks. Mine is some 700mm long & 8.5mm ID, 9.5mm OD or thereabouts. When you take the breathers off the valve covers, check that they are not cracked & split under the hose clamp - that can result in oil from the valve cover over the fins & into the V. And probably elsewhere. Degrease & wash as you go.

In the early days of the 2014 Special, I had a problem with engine oil in the airbox. I had put 2L in. Oil soaked the air filter, covered the insides of the throttle body, ran rough, like shit actually, and kept on cutting out every few miles. Horrible. Solution: clean the oil out of the airbox, clean the oil out of the throttle body with throttle body cleaner & paper towels - you can get right through the throttle body insides from the airbox side - a new air filter, and now I replace the oil to only 1.9L. Others have found 1.8, 1.75 & 1.7 appropriate. (Note that I''m in the process of taking the engine from the frame; the rubber manifold & the inlet manifolds had a thick coating of oil inside them, likely from the original overfill, but the throttle body was clean - that oil coating seems not to have affected performance overmuch).

That being said, it seems to me that you have something else going on (maybe as well). If you haven't done so already, download the Service Station Manual from thisoldtractor, and get the specs to test the oil pressure sensor with your multimeter. A bit awkward to get at, (it's the one in the V of the motor with a spade connector on top) but easy to test (even for me). On the V7C I'd get blips on the oil light &/or the engine management light until it failed completely & I replaced it with a new one.

After doing all that, I'd be hopeful, but not confident that it would be fine. I've a suspicion that some other nasty is in there. Good luck & I'll follow this thread with interest.

Hey thanks. Thatís all good to know. I know I was over filling it originally but havenít done so in over a year when I had the bike thoroughly cleaned like you did here but me by my mechanic, replaced spark plugs and even a gasket to try and fix any issues.

Itís weird because the bike ran fine for a few hundred miles but then started up again.

In your first post you said that the red oil light came on.  That means low oil pressure.  And unless you are very lucky, almost certain engine damage.
Your oil consumption is very high.  You need to find out where the oil is going.  Is it being burnt through the cylinders / valves, through the intake or leaking?

When I first had this issue it was a misaligned valve gasket and that seemed to solve the problem. But then I noticed Iíd have oil issues as it got cold where the light would come on. So Iíd add a little bit in and itíd turn off and everything would be fine.

I recently had an oil change done and had no issues, no light. Bike running smooth. Then randomly started with a check engine light for a blip and then an oil in the box about 50 miles later.

Unfortunately I just really have no clue what Iím doing and starting to exhaust my financial resources with this bike and it never seems to solve the issue of the way the bike runs.

General Discussion / Re: 1974 Benelli 650
« Last post by radguzzi on April 19, 2019, 09:01:30 PM »

I have a Tech Manual here for a Tornado, a friend had one for a short time and I did a little work on it.  Very well built rig.

Beautiful job on that '74 project.


The changeover point according to the factory was in the second quarter 2012. While the changeover point numbers are a bit rubbery I've never seen a 2013 model with flatties so he should be good to go. Simple way to find out is pop a rocker cover and look, ten minutes work on a Griso.


Thanks Chuck,
I'll let him knowÖ  Awesome.  He is out of control, head over heels for this one and I did ot want to stop him, well, unless I had to break the bad news.

Appreciate the sanity check.


General Discussion / Re: CARC help please
« Last post by pete roper on April 19, 2019, 08:53:15 PM »
How much heat did you have to put into it? :shocked: It's a very important casting, if it's been very overheated the little voice in my head would make me think twice about re-using it. There are plenty of second handies on the bay of fleas. Better safe than sorry.

General Discussion / Re: Cycle Gear, Fayetville Ar!
« Last post by Chuck in Indiana on April 19, 2019, 08:48:05 PM »
I have Sedici stuff, too. Decent quality for the price. Cycle Gear's warranty is hard to beat..
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