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So,I'm finally getting around to performing the break-in service on the Stone.Went for a chilly spin yesterday, then came home and drained fluids.This morning I snuck out to the shop for a little while to finish that portion of the service and install my Ed Milich Sump Spacer! First thing I noticed was DANG that's a tiny little sump - really glad I got the spacer (despite the fact that it really didn't burn any oil during break-in).SUMP SPACER INSTALLATIONApplied a coat of anti-seize to the new gaskets (as directed by Ed) and went to install sump/spacer.One word of warning to anyone doing this, make sure you gently start all the bolts before tightening any of them. I originally started by threading and snugging the corner bolts to hang the spacer/sump assembly tight against the block, but after I got all but 2 bolts started (both on the middle of the same side) it felt like the bolts were binding. So I had to unthread the other 10 bolts and play with the sump/spacer alignment in order to safely thread all the bolts. In the end it worked better for the sump to be hanging at the tips of the threads of the corner bolts in order to allow me to safely thread those last two. Once everything was started, I held the sump/spacer tight against the block, ran the bolts up snug and torqued em down.SMALL BLOCK OIL CHANGEI'm really looking forward to future oil changes on this thing (as oppossed to dropping the sump on my old Jackal). Should be a breeze.The two drain plugs are kinda funny, but it looks like it is best to actually pull them both to make sure you get as much out of there as possible. At least that's what it looked like from the inside. The front plug can't drain the sump fully, and the rear plug would actually leave some dirty oil in some galleys/passageways that the front plug drains. Guess that's why they did it.Some totally NEWBIE questions for you smallblock guys regarding the oil filter.1. How often do you guys replace that O-ring? (It looks like I should keep a spare on hand, but it probably lasts many changes - yes?)I keep a couple on hand. When its torn or distorted i'll replace2. Is that a crush washer on the oil filter bolt? (I didn't get any crush washers that match that size in the supplies I picked up for this service so I reused it this time, but do you guys usually replace that?) Yes, I believe the same crush washer as the rear drive and transmission ventfont]Next it's on to cylinder head retorquing and valve clearance adjustment.HEAD BOLTSHead bolts - I've got notes that say 32 ft. lbs. for the 4 large fasteners and 22 ft. lbs. for the small center nut. EDIT - Guzziology (my copy is 2007 and may be a bit long in the tooth now - says 29-30 ft. lbs for the 4 10mm nuts and 20-21 ft. lbs. for the 8mm nut). I went with 30 ft. lbs & 21 ft. lbsI can't confirm these with either the V7 Stone/Special/Racer or the previous V7 Classic manuals as no torque values are given for those fasteners in either. It's a one shot thing so I assume most of you guys won't remember, but if anyone has an additional reasource (oh, I'll check Guzziology when I'm done here).VALVE CLEARANCEAs for Valve Clerance - I assume there are timing marks under that rubber cover at the top front right side of the transmission housing and a crankshaft nut I can access under the plastic front cover that I can use to slowly turn the crankshaft while aligning marks and watching the valves? If you are talking about the rubber plug on the right side about 4 inches forward ot the transmission fill plug, there is nothing there. Pull the spark plug and insert a clean drinking straw into the plug opening. With the front cover removed use the proper socket on the end of the crank and rotate until TDC is found on the compression stroke. You will be on the compression stroke when the piston is TDC both exhaust and intake valves will have a small amount of movement. Gonna set em to 006" and 008" as it lists in the manuals - unless you guys know better? EDIT - Guzziology seems to agree with these settings ;-T or .010 & .015 using metric valuesCLUTCH ADJUSTMENTIt's been my experience (on a number of dealer demos) that the Clutch is often set-up from the factory (or ham-fisted prep techs) with too much freeplay. This puts the friction zone right near the grips and can prevent you from fully disengaging the clutch when you pull in on the lever - which in turn can lead to a bike that is tough to get into neutral or even shift in/out of First at a stop.I can't seem to find any factory specs for free-play - not in any of the manuals (owners or service) or Guzziology. I've heard numbers like 3mm and 5mm of play at the lever batted around. Any thoughts on this? I'm likely going to try and move my friction zone out a little bit (mine was set-up pretty well, certainly not as bad as the 2 different demos, from 2 different dealers, that I had to pull over during the demo ride and adjust it from the saddle). But I'd still like a tiny bit less freeplay than what they set-up. I guess I'll use 5mm as a target unless I hear otherwise. I have about 1/8" of freeplay. I have found the cable operated clutch engauges much sooner than all my hydraulic clutchesAppreciate any input before I screw something up.Kev
The two drain plugs are kinda funny, but it looks like it is best to actually pull them both to make sure you get as much out of there as possible.
Uh...... is the two drain plugs thing new with the new engine, or does mine have them too? I didn't know there were two, and only removed one. :-[
Head bolts should be backed off 1/8-1/4 turn before re-torque, and I go to 33ftlbs on the 4 big ones and 23ftlbs. When you back them off you may hear them pop a bit, that is normal. I have seen them leak at 30-32ftlbs. I just like things tight, and it's not too tight. On the BB motors I go 35, been doing that since the New World motor came out in 93. I know the newest SB like yours has a bead on both sides of the head gasket made of silicone. You may want to set the wrench at 25ftlbs first and so around in a criss cross pattern first before the final torqueOil filter cover oring clean up and I use Dow Corning Molykote #55 O-Ring grease and put it back on cover facing the same way you took it off, cause one side will have a flat and one side will have an angle on it. You won't need a new one for 25Kmi. The crush washer on the main bolt through the cover will mash up if you torque it to 18ftlbs, I go 11 or 12ftlbs and haven't had one leak. If you look at the crush washer it is still flat from factory, they don't tighten them tight either. The older SB's had thicker crush washers to take 25nm, not now days
Crush washers. Yes they are. Get new ones, re-anneal or if I'm feeling particularly lazy I stick some Loctite 518 on each side and just re-use. I have a centre stand so the bike leans forward. I only ever drain with the large 22mm AF plug at the front. I simply can't be bothered with the thimble of oil I'd get from the rear. Sump spacer. I'll never bother with one. Yes I know, my 32 year old Monza is probably about to have a catastrophic failure any decade now and it will be all my fault. :BEER: If you do a quick measure you will find the height of the oil above the pick up is about the same as a big Tonti with a spacer and much higher than any of the round fins. Look up and you will see that the block casting has a web that minimises windage too. I cannot fathom why you would want to use a gasket and grease both joins. Valve clearances. The metric of 6 and 8 thou" is 0.15mm and 0.20mm not what was given above. Re-torquing heads. Yes, yes, yes. I've got an old manual around here somewhere that lists this in periodic maintenenace. Every 20,000km from memory after initial run in. Funnily it isn't included in all the other manuals I have. ::) I can't remember the Kgm but it is in the manual somewhere.
Some totally NEWBIE questions for you smallblock guys regarding the oil filter.1. How often do you guys replace that O-ring? (It looks like I should keep a spare on hand, but it probably lasts many changes - yes?)2. Is that a crush washer on the oil filter bolt? (I didn't get any crush washers that match that size in the supplies I picked up for this service so I reused it this time, but do you guys usually replace that?)
New dash is the same as the old one. When you gate the 'Maint' alert when you turn the key on all you have to,do from memory is turn the ignition off, wait for a few seconds and then press the left hand button and hold it down. Now turn the ignition back on and wait for the clocks to go through their dance and the word 'Maint' will appear briefly and then disappear.Release the button, turn the ignition off and then on again and the 'Maint' warning should of disappeared. Sometimes, for no reason I can make out, you need to have the side stand up for it to work. Don't ask me? I only work here!
I'm trying to make this thread a one-stop shop for new owners - here's the Maintenance Light Reset procedure he sent me sometime ago - it WORKED light a charm:Though I'll add I THINK I forgot to put the side stand up and it worked anyway - go figure.
No doubt the engine will run better once well broken in......talking with one of the guys at AF1 that had just returned from 1400 school in Cal. "Don't care what anybody say's there is a different map that kicks in after x amount of breakin miles". I know that my Norge woke up after about 1,500 miles,not that it matters except that either way they do run sweeter with miles. Just thought it was an interesting statement which is possible with the eclectronic controls now on bikes. Anyone else heard this?
Also check you clear air box drain hose. If it has oil in it either the motor had to much oil in it and the extra pumped out. Or one of the vent hose from the heads is pinched. On my bike after every decent ride the drain hose would have a couple ounces of oil in it. When looking around I four a vent hose pinched. Gave it better placement and for the last couple thousand miles no oil in the air box/drain.
Had a little black Stone in for its first service yesterday. Sticking the new map in it made a appreciable difference to not only its starting but its smoothness as well.Really like the wheels!Pete
Tip #3 - turns out there are 6 valve covers bolts - the 4 obvious ones, and two in bores at the center (under that spark plug cover). The 2 in the bores are really going to need a hex key that is a couple of inches long. A key or t-handle may do it if you've got enough leverage on it, but I'm probably going to pick up a long hex bit socket for future service. I believe the size is 5mm.
and resetting the valves etc. I mean, the valves on my V7 were hella tight, setting them back to spec ought to make some difference in how she is running.
Do you suppose it's telling you to torque the heads?
So Break-In Service is almost done. Got the heads retorqued and the valves adjusted.TIPS for Head Retorque or Valve Adjustment<snip>Pete had previously told me that the head bolts always seemed tighter to him from the factory than when he reset them, but I would swear that was not the case with this motor (assuming my Snap-On low-range Ft. Lbs. torque wrench is anywhere near proper calibration). They definitely felt tighter to me when I retorqued them than when I loosened them.
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