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1) What are your opinions on O2 Modifier vs. Lambda Off?
2) If I switch off the Lambdas, does that mean the motor operates in Open Loop across the whole rev range?
3) With Lambdas off and no other adjustments (donít forget the Zard!), what kind of AFR could I expect below 4,000rpm. (And to some extent, does it matter??)
4) Would I need to adjust CO on top of just switching them off, and if so, what kind of values work well on the Stelvio 8V?
5) Does an adjusted CO value effect the range above 4,000 (i.e. Open Loop)?
6) If I adjust CO in GuzziDiag, is that adjustment stored in the map when I save it again? Would GuzziDiag continue to show those +/- values each time I rewrite the map?
Thanks for your patience in reading all of this. As I say, Iím new to this FI stuff, and I hope the questions arenít too stupid!Have a great weekend!
I'm a happy chap and don't think I'll change anything else! ;-T
Then I did the CO adjust as Beetle described. On my bike I couldn't get near -20. Below -15 it almost stopped running, and at -5 it was a bit rougher. So I've left it at 0 Trim. At least it's good to know that even with the Lambdas off, it doesn't seem to be running too rich.
OPTION 2: Switch off the Lambdas.Here I would use GuzziDiag, the Reader/Writer and Tuner Pro to create and write a new map with the Lambdas off. (I still havenít got a working cable, and I havenít tried GuzziDiag yet, but I hope that will be solved soon).PROís: It seems like a really neat solution. I donít know if it works like that, but maybe any adjustments I make to the CO on top of switching the Lambdas off will also benefit the Open Loop.CONís: Writing anything to the ECU is a bit scary! Iím not a professional and if I have to start making other changes to the mapping because the Lambdas arenít there to make corrections (e.g. general mapping changes, delta maps etc.!!), it might get out of hand. I might over or under fuel the motor and damage something long term!
Download the map, open it up with Tunerpro, check the three, (In the case of twin lambda sensor bikes) flags associated with O2 sensor function, save the new map, upload it back into the ECU.Alternatively you could ask the OP to just flick you his bin file in an email and save yerself the hassle. Your bike is a twin O2 sensor bike yes?Pete
Thanks for the quick response! It's a twin 02 sensor bike, yes. What if I just want to switch of the lambdas and keep the map as it is? Read in another post in this thread that the Stelvio map is one of the better already. Wanna try that first with switched off lambdas.
Yup, that's how you do it.As Wayne says though make sure you save your original map in case you screw up.Pete
Ok. Problem is that I don't get access to ECU from TunerPro... ??? The ignition is on and the Guzzidiag cable connected. But no connection between TunerPro and the ECU. What am I missing here...?
Tunerpro doesn't know the ECU. It only modifies files on the PC.You first use the reader to read the binary from the ECU. You want the IAW5xreader.You then use Tunerpro to modify the binary. You also need the 5AM XDF file to configure Tunerpro.Then use the writer to write it back to the ECU. Use the IAW5xwriter.
Still no luck... :( The cable is connected and the main program, Guzzidiag, is working. But there's no connection between IAW5xReader V0.22 and the ECU. And I don't understand why... :-\
Are you using GuzziDiag at the same time that you are trying to use the reader?Only one program at a time can use the cable. Make sure you close GuzziDiag before doing the read or write.You can fiddle with the trim with the lambda on, but it doesn't do anything since the lambda overrides it. (as far as I know)
Hi BlizzGuzz. I don't think you really need to keep the motor running steady at 3,000 rpm if you find that difficult. You might end up with a very hot motor and angry neighbours! :-).Just run it up to around 3,000, with the synchroniser attached and check the reading. Let it drop off to idle and adjust the screw in or out as necessary. (It must be the one that adjusts the length of the rod running through to the other side of the bike and to the right throttle body. Do not turn any other screw!). Run it up to around 3,000 again and check your synchroniser again. If they are now better balanced, you turned the screw the right way! :-). If not, turn it the other way. Repeat until both sides show the same reading. It can all be done pretty quick. In fact, the quicker the better to avoid over-heating.(Keep in mind, this should be done with both air bleeds screwed fully in. Those are the brass Allen head screws tucked away under the throttle bodies. They're tricky to get at, and it helps to have ball head Allen keys for that. You may find it easier to remove the plastic starter motor cover to get at the one on the left side. Screw them in carefully without using force!)When you've got the throttle bodies nice and balanced at 3,000 rpm it means the amount of air flowing through both throttle bodies is the same. Then you connect Guzzidiag and do the TPS reset with the motor turned off. By doing that you've now synchronised the amount of fuel to both cylinders. After that, restart the engine and and check your synchroniser at idle. Screw out the air bleed screw on the throttle body showing the highest vacuum reading until your synchroniser shows they are balanced at idle. Should be nice and smooth now.That's it. Don't forget to put the rubber caps back on the synchroniser connections.PS: I think the standard TPS position on the Stelvio is 4.8, but it might well be a bit different depending on the bike. I don't think the actual reading is so important in itself. It's just necessary to do the reset after you synchronised the throttle bodies so that the ECU thinks both left and right sides are the same.NOTE: Maybe it helps to think of it like this. When you synchronise the throttle bodies, you're mechanically changing the position of the butterfly valve in the right side throttle to balance the airflow. But the TPS (throttle POSITION sensor) is also located on the right side. It now "senses" that something has changed and starts "asking" the ECU for more/less fuel to the right hand side than before. By doing the TPS reset, you're telling that sensor that everything is cool and it should go back to requesting the same (standard) amount of fuel on each side.Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Come to think of it... I did the TPS reset also after the idle synch. Right or wrong? Good or bad ??? ?
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