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Second, if you or the service guy are going to be at the driveshaft, I would lube them. Personally, I see no reason why it would be better to not lubricate a shaft that is exposed to wear from hammering, rotation, and sliding forces, and also from corrosion and fretting due to moisture. I do not see why a BMW shaft should be lubricated but a Guzzi shaft should not be. Unlike an exposed shaft on a tractor that is admittedly exposed to dust and hay, the shaft on a Guzzi is protected and the grease cannot be contaminated by outside debris.This. I do it as a matter of course. When working in shop attached to an engineering firm we made good coin selling new PTO shafts or UJ's sinply because they had been left to run dry, and it showed.The swing-arm bearings on my 2013 are a sealed unit. No need to mess with them.Swede, one thing I do on the Breva when I have the swingarm off is flick the outer seal off, force some grease in there and spin the bearing. The reasoning behind this is not mine. It is a standard 6000 series bearing. In a swingarm it has limited movement and does not rotate, which means the balls stay in the same spot and the grease does not get spread around. A spin and grease puts them in a different spot with a fresh layer of lube. The reasoning made sense to me so I do it.
How exactly are you guys finding out about the recalls?
Further to the swingarm bearings:Today I had cause to go to our bearing supplier we use. This guy would be the most knowledgeable bearing guy I know. His view was that using a 6000 series bearing in a swingarm which is only oscillating is not ideal. The balls not only do not move from one position, they can actually squeeze the lube out where the ball is in contact with the outer. He expressed surprise that a needle bearing was not used at least. He considered squeezing more lube in on a regular basis and spinning the bearing was a fairly sound idea considering the type of bearing used is not ideal to start off with with the proviso that the outer seal will be compromised somewhat for weather tightness.
jacksonracingcomau: Another debatable point? Re: Your foto of a V9 drive shaft. Art or accurate?Does it truly indicate the positions of the universal joints? In my distant past w/bmw's; re-enforced when I was notified and sent parts by MG (Daytona recall); If 2 universals are on a drive shaft the out reaching fingers of the 1/2 universal from the gear box should be diametrically opposed (90 deg.), to the input 1/2 universal fingers, on the bevel box. bmw explained in detail the engineering behind the design preference. Though easy to imagine. it's long gone from my mind. Neither an oil, grease or tire thread but. If apologies should have been included, I'll stand to suffer. R3~
The difference in U-joint positioning, i.e. parallel yokes as opposed to 90deg. rotational separation was the latter is/was alleged to represent less friction/wear/vibration, thus less power loss due to smoother running. Regardless, a better reason for using 2 U-joints is most likely to be greater suspension travel. The fat tires on V9's demand 2 U-joints. I may try asking Kevin Cameron directly. He's nearby. Or perhaps Mr. Roper will deign this worthy of comment. Thank you, R3~
I am still of the opinion that a CV joint would solve some of the restrictions brought on by the use of UJ's, as well as being able to deliver greater rear suspension travel.Any reason why one could not be used?
As many more advantages as CV over U Joint, it is also a lot more expensive to produce as well as to maintain at one time...But over the long run, it is usually proven to be EVEN more costly when running U joint as replacement will usually happens more often...So I am going to guess the cost saving plays a major factor...
Other than the recall about the routing of wires/cables (done at first service) I have not found anything that needs to be done on my 2017 V7iii Anniversario. It is really great as is.
A few years back I had both CV joints fail on my Acura CL type S, 6 spd.. The 1st one went out @ 427,000 mi. The second @ 532,000 mi. Never needed a clutch. I let her go @ 585K. Perhaps a CV joint capable of managing the amount of torque would be too large? R3~
Im thinking size is a factor also. Even with the lower HP of these motorcycles your still going to be looking at a 2.5" + joint... with the sealing cover it will be pretty bulky.. also with just moving in one direction a correctly designed Ujoint and shaft should do the job on a normal motorcycle.
Thanks for the additional thoughts including "just ride the thing!". Interesting reading the discussions on the u joints and CV joints. I just laid the money down for the bike (and some farkles). If folks are curious, the splines were sufficiently greased. Also, the recall had already been done on this bike.The farkles or necessities (depending on your point of view) are:Center standHeated Grips. I've had Oxford before but Koso Apollo's were mentioned and what I decided to go with. It'll be interesting to see what I think of them in action.Various battery tender stuffLED brake light kit (extra lights in the rear tied into the braking system)ROX risers. Short arms and want a slightly more upright position. We'll see what I think.Metal fuel filter.Pazzo adjustable leversGivi engine guardsI'm also going to get some hand guards (to cut the wind), a windscreen (also to cut the wind ;) ), and some luggage but still sorting all that out.
Edit: For some reason I thought u had a carbon and it stuck in my head LOL...still a great choice :P
I remember Toyota and Honda needing CV joint replacements a lot back in the 80s before they would hit 100,000.
Right now I'm looking at LED replacement bulbs to support my heated gear wants. There was a good thread on that back in December so I'm using that as the kick off point. https://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=98912.0Besides the heated grips I'm considering the Aerostich heated bib. 30 watts/2.5 amps. I think I can use one or the other without replacing the bulbs. Replacing the lamps may buy me enough breather to use them both if I want without draining the battery.
Add a voltmeter so you can monitor the battery voltage while you ride. I am in the process if narrowing down my choices for a voltmeter for my V7.
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