Stelvio NTX headlight problem

[buster1]

Hello all,
2014 Stelvio NTX highbeam works fine, Lowbeam eather doesn't work at all or is extremely dim.
I have changed both bulbs and replaced the headlight switch and no joy. Has anyone else had this problem? I am hoping someone can point me in the right direction.

Thanks in advance.
David.

[Markcarovilli]

Check relay connections....

First one closest to gas tank or first one going from back to front as I remember.  On the RH side of bike.

Mark

[buster1]

Check relay connections....

First one closest to gas tank or first one going from back to front as I remember.  On the RH side of bike.

Mark

Thank you. I have ordered a new relay.

[Kiwi_Roy]

As far as I can tell the High beam bulb (57) is fed directly through the LH dimmer switch (white wire that also goes to the dash for Hi beam idiot light)
The Low beam bulb (56) is from the headlight relay.
 
I don't know if this drawing relates to your later model bike but the ones in the on-line manuals are virtually unreadable.
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/2008_Stelvio.gif

Click once to open then a second time to zoom in (at least that's how it works for me)

Note how the black wire from Low Beam lamp (56) goes across the page and eventually ends up at the generator, I recall there's something tricky about this arrangement.
It's quite confusing, hopefully some Stelvio owners will jump in soon.

[Kiwi_Roy]

Stelvio NTX owners

What is the purpose of the wire from headlight (56) to the Alternator (29)

http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/2008_Stelvio.gif

Does the Alternator power the light OR the light turn on the Alternator?
(I have a feeling I already know the answer to this, just cannot dredge it up)

[Wayne Orwig]

Stelvio NTX owners

What is the purpose of the wire from headlight (56) to the Alternator (29)

Low beam (56) is always on, AFTER the motor starts. So the alternator field regulator gets power after the motor starts, from that some feed (relay 5).
 

[Kiwi_Roy]

Thanks Wayne

But the owner says Low Beam is not working so perhaps its not charging either

Fuse 1 blown or faulty relay (5) perhaps

Buster1, check your stop lights and horn (also off fuse 1) Wayne says the Alternator regulator gets power from Low Beam.

[Wayne Orwig]

Thanks Wayne

But the owner says Low Beam is not working so perhaps its not charging either

Fuse 1 blown or faulty relay (5) perhaps

Buster1, check your stop lights and horn (also off fuse 1) Wayne says the Alternator regulator gets power from Low Beam.

High beam also gets power from relay 5. And high beam works. So relay 5 must be OK.

On my 2009 only ONE high beam is wired BTW. The newer NTX wiring may be different. I heard someone say that a bad handlebar switch maybe there low beam fail. So that schematic may not apply.
 

[buster1]

Thanks Wayne

But the owner says Low Beam is not working so perhaps its not charging either

Fuse 1 blown or faulty relay (5) perhaps

Buster1, check your stop lights and horn (also off fuse 1) Wayne says the Alternator regulator gets power from Low Beam.

Hello Guys, Horn and brake-light tail-light working ok.
The bike is a 2014 ntx.
David.

[Kiwi_Roy]

http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/2008_Stelvio.gif
Relay (5) gets its main power from the Red/White (or is it Red/Yellow) to terminal 3, this should be alive as it comes from one of the main fuses, you can verify this with your meter or a test light.
When the relay is closed (when the engine is running) it sends power back out via terminal 5 to the Black wire.

The Black wire powers up the Low Beam headlight filament and also the common of the handlebar switch as well as the generator field.
If the relay is not closed as Wayne pointed out the High beam will not operate either because the H/L switch won't be powered.

So when the engine is running you should find a live Black wire in the headlight going to the Low beam lamp/s
Another Very important wire is the ground, it's shown here as Blue (Guzzi used to use black for grounds)

Note: We are assuming the drawing has the colours correct, it's very difficult to make the drawings match the actual wiring. If you look at the colour at the relay terminal 5 it should be the same colour at the headlight.
We are also assuming that the factory hasn't made a change from this drawing.
If it were me I would pull relay (5) and place a jumper wire in the socket 3 to 5 so you don't need the noisy engine running while you test.

BTW I'm hoping Wayne casts his eye over this and corrects any errors I might have made.

[buster1]

http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/2008_Stelvio.gif
Relay (5) gets its main power from the Red/White (or is it Red/Yellow) to terminal 3, this should be alive as it comes from one of the main fuses, you can verify this with your meter or a test light.
When the relay is closed (when the engine is running) it sends power back out via terminal 5 to the Black wire.

The Black wire powers up the Low Beam headlight filament and also the common of the handlebar switch as well as the generator field.
If the relay is not closed as Wayne pointed out the High beam will not operate either because the H/L switch won't be powered.

So when the engine is running you should find a live Black wire in the headlight going to the Low beam lamp/s
Another Very important wire is the ground, it's shown here as Blue (Guzzi used to use black for grounds)

Note: We are assuming the drawing has the colours correct, it's very difficult to make the drawings match the actual wiring. If you look at the colour at the relay terminal 5 it should be the same colour at the headlight.
We are also assuming that the factory hasn't made a change from this drawing.
If it were me I would pull relay (5) and place a jumper wire in the socket 3 to 5 so you don't need the noisy engine running while you test.

BTW I'm hoping Wayne casts his eye over this and corrects any errors I might have made.

Thank you, Sounds like a good idea.
David.

[smdl]

FYI, I had to look far and wide for the correct wiring diagram for the later NTX, and it differs greatly from the earlier bikes.  I'll dig it up tomorrow and get it to you.

Update:  I have it, and can send via email.

Cheers,
Shaun

[Kiwi_Roy]

FYI, I had to look far and wide for the correct wiring diagram for the later NTX, and it differs greatly from the earlier bikes.  I'll dig it up tomorrow and get it to you.

Update:  I have it, and can send via email.

Cheers,
Shaun

This shows a significant wiring difference 7 Auxiliary fuses, 4 main fuses and an additional Light relay, looks like it applies to the 2011 Stelvio and later.
The relay (5) is now a 5 pin and doesn't have anything to do with high beam, relay (65) does that
This diagram is similar to 0n-line manual, but it's clearer and includes the key and wire colour key.

Send Shaun a PM with your e-mail address

[smdl]

This shows a significant wiring difference 7 Auxiliary fuses, 4 main fuses and an additional Light relay, looks like it applies to the 2011 Stelvio and later. Send Shaun a PM with your e-mail address

Glad it helps, Roy -- this version was a godsend when I was trying to work through issues with my lighting relays.   Happy to send it on to anyone who wants it, and please feel free to do the same.

Cheers,
Shaun

[guzzisteve]

We got it sorted few weeks ago, part is in. We'll know soon enough. Guzzi's Tech Rep said he's seen this relay fail. I have all the diagrams from Tech site in high def. Light logic relay runs low beam gets it's ground from ECU when motors running. Different 5 pin relay that they used in 07 bikes.

[Kiwi_Roy]

We got it sorted few weeks ago, part is in. We'll know soon enough. Guzzi's Tech Rep said he's seen this relay fail. I have all the diagrams from Tech site in high def. Light logic relay runs low beam gets it's ground from ECU when motors running. Different 5 pin relay that they used in 07 bikes.

Steve,
           Do you have to be a dealer to get access to these high definition diagrams? The on-line manual ones are pretty much useless.
Are descriptions of the logic available? I think I could be of more use to owners if I didn't have to figure some of this stuff out the hard way LOL.

[guzzisteve]

Yes about access, PDF high def for dealers. On the PDF reader there is a list of circuits on the left, you click on a circuit and it lites it up in colors of wires. Shows were all the wires go or come from. Nice tool for the dealers.

[Kiwi Dave]

AF1 offer the pdf for the pricey sum of $4.

https://www.af1racing.com/store/Scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=38813&sku=Manual-897237WD&description=OEM+Aprilia+Wiring+Diagram+%2708%2D%2716+Norge+1200+8V

I have the Griso 1200 8V one.  As Guzzisteve says, it is a smart pdf where you can highlight the wiring for the various functions.  I have to use Adobe Acrobat for this, my favourite PDF-XChange Viewer doesn't offer this feature.

[guzzisteve]

Failed headlight logic relay, 5 pin tested bad & replaced. Could it be the rubber cover over it? Regardless all relays pulled pins & connectors cleaned & reassembled, works as designed. Last relay on the right toward rider. 

[smdl]

Failed headlight logic relay, 5 pin tested bad & replaced. Could it be the rubber cover over it? Regardless all relays pulled pins & connectors cleaned & reassembled, works as designed. Last relay on the right toward rider.

I'm not impressed with the quality of the factory Tyco relays (I have had two fail).  I finally tracked down some NOS Bosch relays on eBay, and replaced them all.  I also got spares for the 4-pin relays and the fuel injection ones on the left side of the bike.  I carry a spare for each of them onboard.

Since replacing all the relays, all my charging and lighting issues have gone away.

Glad to hear the OP's issues are resolved.  Great work, Steve (as usual).

Cheers,
Shaun

[Kiwi_Roy]

Failed headlight logic relay, 5 pin tested bad & replaced. Could it be the rubber cover over it? Regardless all relays pulled pins & connectors cleaned & reassembled, works as designed. Last relay on the right toward rider.

We always seem to be having relay problems.
I wonder if anyone has tried a solid state solution, a reasonable size MOSFET could handle all the current a relay does. If signal isolation is required a reed relay or optocoupler would do the job.