My B11 has been idling high

[bad Chad]

 I have been struggling for a while trying to get my B 11 to idle correctly.   I could push on the right side  armature of the  throttle bodies  and get it to slow down.   It was fairly gunked up so I cleaned it off with a solvent but that didn’t seem to help.   I got it clean but it still idled too high,  somewhere between 13 and 1500 RPM .  I popped off the connecting arm and the idle drop to appropriate 1100.   So I gave the arm one 360° turn and put it back on and now it idles properly at 1100.  It seems to be running great and no more issue with fast idle.  Does this make sense as a proper fix?

[RinkRat II]

    That well may have cured the problem but I would still synch the throttle bodies to be sure and do a tps reset. My $.02

        Paul B

[pete roper]

Turning the arm is a really bad idea as it will throw out the balance and adversely effect the TPS Reading.

To me the problem would seem to still be dirty TB related. Did you remove them and clean them on the bench or just do it in situ?

Pete

[bad Chad]

No I didn’t.  I was thinking it was too easy!  I guess I’ll just have to do it correctly now.

[yogidozer]

Vacuum leak?

[pete roper]

Could also be a sticky stepper. Your B11 is an early one so it probably has the metal bodied stepper motor which are more prone to gumming up.

Turn the rod back to where it was. Balance the TB's and re-calibrate the TPS. If it's still idling high pull off the stepper hose from the airbox and block it off and see if the idle drops. If it does then the stepper may be gummed up.

Keep the hose off and then use the stepper check function in Guzzidiag while spraying some carby cleaner in through the hose. That may free it up.

If it doesn't then whip the TB's off and give them a really good cleaning on the bench with a toofbrush and carby cleaner. Then rebalance and recalibrate TPS again. Clearing the trims at the same time won't hurt.

Pete

[ratguzzi]

quit sticking gummie bears in the tank.......
JB

[ohiorider]

Does it only idle high when the bike is in gear and the clutch lever pulled in (clutch disengaged?)  There is a small plunger (microswitch) that is activated when the clutch lever is pulled into the handlebar.  If the plunger isn't being pushed in far enough by the clutch lever, my 1200 Sport will go into a 1500-1800rpm idle (if I'm sitting at a stop with the bike in gear and the clutch lever pulled into the handlebar.)

I slipped a small vacuum plug onto the plunger so that when I disengaged (pulled the clutch handle) it would push the plunger on the microswitch.  I think the plug (spacer) made up for wear in the clutch handle.

Maybe some of you who can better describe this problem will chime in.

Bob

[bad Chad]

No it rpms high regardless of clutch input.

Thanks for the input Pete.

[Kev m]

Could also be a sticky stepper. Your B11 is an early one so it probably has the metal bodied stepper motor which are more prone to gumming up.

Turn the rod back to where it was. Balance the TB's and re-calibrate the TPS. If it's still idling high pull off the stepper hose from the airbox and block it off and see if the idle drops. If it does then the stepper may be gummed up.

Keep the hose off and then use the stepper check function in Guzzidiag while spraying some carby cleaner in through the hose. That may free it up.

If it doesn't then whip the TB's off and give them a really good cleaning on the bench with a toofbrush and carby cleaner. Then rebalance and recalibrate TPS again. Clearing the trims at the same time won't hurt.

Pete

This Chad.

It sounds to me like you masked the symptoms of the excess idle air (allowed by the valve) by forcing one throttle plate closed a hair more.

[Joliet Jim]

Chad just get rid of that thing and buy my Centauro. Set the idle at 5000 and pop the clutch. It'll be like a moon shot.

[Huzo]

Stepper..
Forrrrgetttaabbaaar rrttt it...!
A new one will do it.
If you take the old one off and leave it plugged in while you turn the key on and power up the system, you can see and feel if it’s working.
I drilled a hole in an old one and shot some CRC up it’s blurter.
Made a difference.

[Huzo]

Chad just get rid of that thing and buy my Centauro. Set the idle at 5000 and pop the clutch. It'll be like a moon shot.

At least you’ll ACTUALLY get there..
(Unlike 1969... )

[bad Chad]

I’m pretty sure it’s not the stepper.  The stepper does kick in at start up, after 20 seconds or so the idil does come down, but as the motor warms the rpms would end up around 1400.  If it was the stepper I don’t think increasing the length of the connecting arm would have returned the idle to normal.

[Huzo]

I’m pretty sure it’s not the stepper.  The stepper does kick in at start up, after 20 seconds or so the idil does come down, but as the motor warms the rpms would end up around 1400.  If it was the stepper I don’t think increasing the length of the connecting arm would have returned the idle to normal.

Give the sacred screw a crank...
What harm could that possibly do..?

[Joliet Jim]

At least you’ll ACTUALLY get there..
(Unlike 1969... )

Hey if we were faking space, we'd already have a Mars landing and the Discovery 1 with the HAL 9000 floating around Jupiter. :P

[Huzo]

Hey if we were faking space, we'd already have a Mars landing and the Discovery 1 with the HAL 9000 floating around Jupiter. :P

Not now you wouldn’t mate.
There’s too many people clued in with home setups that will blow the lid off the scam..
Anyway.
This topic is not for this thread, but I accept I started it.

[Joliet Jim]

Not now you wouldn’t mate.
There’s too many people clued in with home setups that will blow the lid off the scam..
Anyway.
This topic is not for this thread, but I accept I started it.

Chad started the thread so any topic is really acceptable. He's special in that way. 

[bad Chad]

Are you kids sniffing glue again?

[Kiwi_Roy]

I have been struggling for a while trying to get my B 11 to idle correctly.  I could push on the right side  armature of the  throttle bodies  and get it to slow down. 

That's because the Bell Crank is too far out of alinement holding the RH throttle open.
The air bleeds, the stepper motor and the vacuum lines all add to the overall throttle opening but the Bell Crank has more effect on the RH body than all the rest.
Just for the hell it, with the air bleeds fully closed set the bike idling and then turn the bell crank a couple of turns one way then the other, see what happens.

At the risk of going down in flames why do we pipe the vents into the Air Box to create an oily mess in the throttle bodies, name one positive benefit of burning this oil rather than just get shot of it.
We know it's caused by over filling but sticking it out of sight in the air box is not going to change your ways. I do understand it's done for environmental reasons but does it add to the overall good performance?

Ducking for cover.