Alternator bracket woes

[izzuG]

After a short ride the other day, after hearing a "rattle", I discovered that both of the bottom studs on my alternator bracket had snapped. Today I pulled the tank off to remove the bits so I could remove the broken studs, but to my dismay, I discovered a crack on the front housing, where one of the secondary bracket straps mounts up. Not sure what my options are, I'm a little worried...pics attached





three sided coin flip


1974 Eldorado

[73eldorado]

Looks like a welding job, hope you don’t have to remove the engine.

[Tom]

Just have the bracket welded.

[Kiwi_Roy]

A very common problem on loops I think
I was told not to use bolts in the crankcase but to use Honda exhaust studs so you can loctite them into the casting and just have nuts to deal with
There is also a mod that braces to the distributor bolt.

Charlie will be along shortly

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

A very common problem on loops I think
I was told not to use bolts in the crankcase but to use Honda exhaust studs so you can loctite them into the casting and just have nuts to deal with
There is also a mod that braces to the distributor bolt.

Charlie will be along shortly

Sounds like it already had studs (which broke), and in the photo it already has a brace back to the front distributor bolt. 

[Tom]

I use a long bolt with nuts and a bracket to push down on my generator from the frame back bone.

[Kiwi_Roy]

I use a long bolt with nuts and a bracket to push down on my generator from the frame back bone.

Novel idea, is there any reason you couldn't suspend the alternator from the frame altogether, it has a belt drive after all.

[Don G]

Frame mounting with out strengthening will lead to disaster as the channel cross piece is fairly light, I have a 71 Ambo that I did this to, had to beef up the frame considerably, seems to work ok, so far.  DonG

[Tom]

Novel idea, is there any reason you couldn't suspend the alternator from the frame altogether, it has a belt drive after all.

Haven't had any problems so far.  I didn't want to put a hole through the frame and there's enough tension pushing down on the generator to keep in place.  The weight of the generator helps to keep in place.  I also used pieces of a tube for vibration pads under the generator and the frame.  Kind of a inverted bent T with the base pushing against the frame and the top as an inverted curved to fit the generator.  I haven't done a "correct" repair.  I'll do that when I tear into the engine & trans.

[izzuG]

I found a replacement timimg cover on eBay, it appears to be correct?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/202651562977?item=202651562977&action=BESTOFFER&_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4068.c10&nrd=true&autorefresh=true

[John A]

Yep that's it, lucky find!

[Tom H]

Damage that you have could have been caused by the belt being too tight. If you tighten it like a car, it's too tight. I've found that if you can push the belt almost to the front cover mounting bolt hole raised area that it's just about right. 1 more shim would be too tight.

Another thing that could be is if the lower pulley is bent and not running straight. This can happen when you tighten the 3 bolts that hold it together.

Good luck with your fix!
Tom

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

I found a replacement timimg cover on eBay, it appears to be correct?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/202651562977?item=202651562977&action=BESTOFFER&_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4068.c10&nrd=true&autorefresh=true

If your Eldo has a timing chain, then no, it won't work (without some modification - i.e. the internal ribbing up at the cam sprocket would need to be removed). Eldos after engine number 58535 will have a timing chain.

Just some thoughts on the stud breakage:

1) Does the engine have "big bore" kits that might generate more vibration? Even poor tune or lugging the engine could generate more vibration. Even though the alternator is a bit lighter than a generator, it still has fair amount of mass mounted up high away from the engine. Shake that back and forth at the right frequency and it wouldn't be any wonder the studs would break.

2) I always use fairly thick, large o.d. washers under nylock nuts on those studs. My theory is that they help spread the load a little more evenly and could alleviate some stress on the studs.   

[izzuG]

Drats, my engine # is VP*061835

[handyandy]

If that is a Scrambler Cycle unit Kevin Will sell you a new one.

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

If that is a Scrambler Cycle unit Kevin Will sell you a new one.

It's not the bracket that is the problem. 

[John A]

Drats, my engine # is VP*061835

Short work with a die grinder and an aluminum cutting bur.  Use the old cover as a guide to where to remove material.  I forgot about that difference, thanks Charlie