Author Topic: 97 EV ECU P08 (Read 3630 times)

Johnr2jr · « **on:** May 06, 2019, 06:18:54 PM »

97 EV
Picked up another Guzzi after 10 years away from them. It is a British import into Canada with only 9k miles on it. It was running last summer but now it won’t spark. New plugs didn’t help. Everything else works. Haven’t checked the grounds yet for the coils. I have a cable from the ECU with a brown and blue wire that plugs into a cable the has a red and black but the red/black harness isn’t attached to anything. It looks like it might be pulled out of something.
My reviews of schematics weren’t helpful.
Any help would be greatly appreciated

John

pehayes · « **Reply #1 on:** May 06, 2019, 06:47:36 PM »

BTW, this ECU uses TWO revolution sensors. If either fails you won't get a spark. One is on the right side of the bell housing and senses the flywheel. The other is top-front-left and senses the camshaft. The sensors themselves are usually bulletproof (I've seen one fail). But the in-line molex connectors are not so reliable. Disconnect the connector ends, clean with DeOxit.

BTW #2, there is a fault code light near the battery. There is a plug and a dummy cap which activates the fault code LED and makes it flash codes. I recall that the fault code connector is oval and not round like the connector you photographed. How about more pics. The code LED and dummy connector are here:

I'll look and try to find a plug like yours.

Patrick Hayes
Fremont CA

Johnr2jr · « **Reply #2 on:** May 06, 2019, 07:15:21 PM »

The connector is the one beside the battery in your picture, in front of the LED

fotoguzzi · « **Reply #3 on:** May 06, 2019, 07:54:06 PM »

does your fuel pump prime? that plug looks a lot like the one that plugs into the fuel pump sub harness.

pehayes · « **Reply #4 on:** May 06, 2019, 07:56:52 PM »

OK, just verified on my 98EV. The round, empty connector you have leads to the LED fault code lamp. Yes, it does change wire colors at the connector. Try to find the lamp. Try to find the opposite connector and plug it in. I think the bike should run just fine with it disconnected as it is only for display purposes. You just won't be able to display fault codes until you get that connected. In your case, the fault codes might be important to determine why you have no spark.

My 98EV has failed sparking twice. Both times it was the Molex connector for the front cam timing sensor. Cleaned the contacts and good to go.

Last year I coached some chap from Kentucky. His fault code determined an actual 'open' failure in the bell housing flywheel sensor. He required a replacement sensor.

Patrick Hayes
Fremont CA

pehayes · « **Reply #5 on:** May 06, 2019, 07:59:07 PM »

BTW, please report back when you get this solved. We need to know if your system will flash any codes. We need to know why it stopped sparking.

Patrick Hayes
Fremont CA

Johnr2jr · « **Reply #6 on:** May 06, 2019, 08:09:16 PM »

I’m away from the EV until Wednesday evening, but when I see it I’ll check everything mentioned so far and report back on any codes found and anything else I notice.

Kiwi_Roy · « **Reply #7 on:** May 06, 2019, 08:17:44 PM »

Also, do you hear the pump prime for three seconds when you turn the key on.

fotoguzzi · « **Reply #8 on:** May 06, 2019, 08:33:29 PM »

The timing sensor in the bell housing can accumulate “swarf” and might need to be cleaned off to make a good reading of the timing triggers on the flywheel.

Johnr2jr · « **Reply #9 on:** May 06, 2019, 08:58:22 PM »

Fuel pump primes and injectors work. Sounds like I have some cleaning to do

Kiwi_Roy · « **Reply #10 on:** May 06, 2019, 10:51:28 PM »

Perhaps the spark lead has become disconnected from the coils.

Measure with your multimeter from the plug cap to chassis it should be about 8,000 Ohms, it may be something different but whatever it is it should be the same on both cylinders.

Johnr2jr · « **Reply #11 on:** May 08, 2019, 06:50:11 PM »

Still no spark.

LED reconnected and no code flashes.
Measured the ohms from the plug wire to the chassis and got 60,000 ohms on both sides.
Ensured all wires and cables were fully seated.
Cleaned the crank and flywheel sensors.
Cleaned all ground connections.
Fully charged the battery.

Won’t be able to get back to it until Saturday when a Guzzi owning buddy of mine will come by with his code reader.

pehayes · « **Reply #12 on:** May 08, 2019, 07:56:27 PM »

Quote from: Johnr2jr on May 08, 2019, 06:50:11 PM

LED reconnected and no code flashes.
Cleaned the crank and flywheel sensors.
Cleaned all ground connections.

The P8 system does NOT store codes. It only displays codes which are currently in fault. The LED will not display codes until you put the bypass cap onto the code generating wire and then turn on the key.

You cleaned the two sensors. But, did you disconnect these sensors from the harness and clean/lubricate all of the Molex pins in the gang connectors. Both of my sensor faults were in the harness sockets, not in the sensors themselves.

Patrick Hayes
Fremont CA

Tkelly · « **Reply #13 on:** May 09, 2019, 11:14:41 AM »

Try a new sensor that was my problem on 2 bikes.

Johnr2jr · « **Reply #14 on:** May 13, 2019, 07:19:17 PM »

Both connectors were like new when I checked, but I cleaned them anyway.
Still there is no spark, is there a way to test the sensors?

JoeB · « **Reply #15 on:** May 13, 2019, 07:29:36 PM »

EFI manual P7, P8 from PyroDan: https://dpguzzi.com/efiman.pdf
page 13, check resistance of sensors.

Edit: Pull the sensor by the throttle body and make sure it's clean. It runs dry and can collet some debris.

Chuck in Indiana · « **Reply #16 on:** May 13, 2019, 08:08:08 PM »

Quote from: Johnr2jr on May 13, 2019, 07:19:17 PM

Both connectors were like new when I checked, but I cleaned them anyway.
Still there is no spark, is there a way to test the sensors?

From memory

680 ohms.

Kiwi_Roy · « **Reply #17 on:** May 14, 2019, 03:37:36 AM »

I used to have a drawing that showed the relays and fuses under the side cover.
The two relays on the right hand side are for the ECU, the far right relay powers the fuel pump, injectors and coils, if you know the status of that relay it tells you if the timing sensors are working.

Wire a little light from the 87 pin to chassis (just wrap a small wire around the relay pin) you will see it blink On while the pump is priming then go Off, it does this based on time.

When you press the start button the light MUST go back On and stay On while the motor is turning over it does this based on the sensors.

pehayes · « **Reply #18 on:** May 14, 2019, 11:10:19 AM »

I made this up for our two 98EV's. You should become familiar with the wire plans on Greg Bender's site. However, the 98EV is an oddity. Part of the plan follows the 1100i model and other parts follow the later EV model. Just be aware to check both.

Patrick Hayes
Fremont CA

1998 V11EV WIRING CIRCUIT PLAN
VIEWED FROM THE RIGHT SIDE
REAR TOWARD FRONT

RELAY #1   Starter
RELAY #2   Horn
RELAY #3   Side Stand Safety
RELAY #4   Headlight
FUSE #1   Fuel Petcock
FUSE #2   Turn Signal Flasher – Parking Light – Instrument lights
FUSE #3   Brake Light (foot) – Horn – Starter Solenoid
FUSE #4   Brake Light (hand) – Headlights – Charging – Tachometer – Idiot Lights
RELAY #5   Fuel Injectors – Computer – Relay #6
FUSE #5   Fuel Pump Relay – Fuel Injectors - Computer
FUSE #6   Fuel Pump - Coils
RELAY #6   Fuel Pump – Coils

pehayes · « **Reply #19 on:** May 15, 2019, 10:56:53 PM »

Bump!
How about a status report?
Please report back.

Patrick Hayes
Fremont CA

Johnr2jr · « **Reply #20 on:** May 17, 2019, 08:27:41 PM »

I haven’t been able to get back to the EV since the last post. I’m anxious to try the tests in the reference material provided by the group. I be at it again on Monday.

News:

Author Topic: 97 EV ECU P08 (Read 3630 times)