Eldorado 1400 Rear Wheel Removal

[gthorpe]

Looking for advice on removing the rear wheel

I have the bike up on a motorcycle jack. Removed the axel and tied the caliper up out of the way. Also removed the left shock.

Do I also need to remove the rear fender to get the wheel out?

[OldMojo]

Since you have the axle out, have you also removed a muffler?

On my 1400 Tour, I disconnected both shocks and was then able to lower the swingarm down to a point where the axle could be removed without removing the muffler, and also have clearance to get the wheel out.

I would advise putting the axle back through without spacers, then disengaging the wheel from the drive, sliding it away from the drive on the axle. Then lower the bike until the wheel just barely touches the floor, remove the axle and jack the bike back up. Should be plenty of room to roll it out.

Be aware that some of these were sent out the door with insufficient grease on the splines at the wheel to drive connection, so may require considerable "persuasion" to separate. Go ahead and change your final drive oil too, since that's the only time you'll have access to the drain plug.

[kballowe]

Looking for advice on removing the rear wheel

I have the bike up on a motorcycle jack. Removed the axle and tied the caliper up out of the way. Also removed the left shock.
Do I also need to remove the rear fender to get the wheel out?

That's a big fender, I know.

Harbor Freight wheel chocks were $59.99 and I had a 20% off coupon (Guzzi content).  I have a really small area and no room for a lift, so this works for me.  Don't have any pictures of the Eldorado tire change, but here's the Cali.  Same idea.

I'm sure there are other ways to do this - here's mine.
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However you do it - stabilize the front-end before jacking the back side.


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[gthorpe]

That wheel chock could be the answer. If I could safely get the front end down that would give sufficient clearance to get the back wheel out.

[et18]

kballowe, do you have that chock fixed to the wall?  I have the same chock as well as the HB lift, but with only the lift the front wheel is probably 3 feet in the air just to get the rear up 3 inches.  I'd like to give your idea a try, when it's up on the lift it always seems like it's just one clumsy move from disaster.

Glen, rear wheel removal is tough the first time but you get better at it quickly.  Rear tires only last 5K miles for most of us so you get plenty of practice.  The rear I have on it now is just past the wear bars at 4800 miles.

[TN Mark]

Is there a center stand option of the 1400’s?

On my older Tonti framed bikes I’d put the bike on the center stand. Remove the front wheel, lower the forks to the ground and then have all kinds of room to remove the rear wheel. I have a Condor front wheel chock which makes rear wheel removal much easier now.

[kballowe]

kballowe, do you have that chock fixed to the wall?

No, but the front-end is strapped into it and then I simply position that flat jack as far to the rear as reasonable.
Since this picture was taken, I've mounted the chock to a 2ft/8ft piece of plywood - so that the back tire also sits on the plywood.  This makes it so much easier to get it back out of the chock.  Otherwise, the chock just slides backward everytime ya try to back out of the chock.  Also, this will prevent the chock from wanting to turn left or right with the handlebars

[ampm7]

Next week I'm doing the same thing. Has anybody used a Pitbull front stand to steady the bike instead of the chock? I have one of those and used it on my sport bikes and it works great but because of the rake it might be a bit touch and go with the front fender. Any thoughts?

[gthorpe]

OK, I was able to remove the tire.  I greased the spline but am having trouble getting it to line up with the spline on the final drive so I can re-install in. 

I have the axel installed with the brake caliper off so I can slide the wheel bake and forth but can't get the spline to mate up with the final drive.  Is there a technique to do this?

Thanks,
Glenn

[kballowe]

OK, I was able to remove the tire.  I greased the spline but am having trouble getting it to line up with the spline on the final drive so I can re-install in. 

I have the axel installed with the brake caliper off so I can slide the wheel bake and forth but can't get the spline to mate up with the final drive.  Is there a technique to do this?

Thanks,
Glenn

Patience.  It's a heavy assembly, and getting it lined up requires patience.  And a good light.   

[roadventure]

but can't get the spline to mate up with the final drive.  Is there a technique to do this?

Thanks,
Glenn

Leave the brake caliper tied up out of the way.  Insert the axle but do not engage it into the brake side swing arm.  Essentially the rear wheel assembly is kind of hanging on the axle.  Now gently move the wheel up and down while slowly rotating and pushing into the rear drive spline.  I know, sounds complicated, but I have found this works MUCH easier than trying to get the spline lined up perfectly with the axle fully inserted into both sides of the swing arm.

[gthorpe]

Leave the brake caliper tied up out of the way.  Insert the axle but do not engage it into the brake side swing arm.  Essentially the rear wheel assembly is kind of hanging on the axle.  Now gently move the wheel up and down while slowly rotating and pushing into the rear drive spline.  I know, sounds complicated, but I have found this works MUCH easier than trying to get the spline lined up perfectly with the axle fully inserted into both sides of the swing arm.

Thanks Dave!  That worked.