SYNTHETIC OILS IN 2000 QUOTA?

[Spuddy]

Okay, I suppose this is an update to the continuing oil question. 

But my shop buddy inferred I was remiss using 10w60 Liqui Moly in the crankcase of my Quota. As well as synthetic gear oils in the transmission and final drive. He suggests dino oil is "better" for the seals in all 3 applications.  It he correct?

Spud

[Lesman]

I'm  running synthetic everywhere. I have for 8  years 20k.
I was told not too long along that the quota has plastic bearing cages in the trans. Supposed  to be a bad combo. Don't  know. Just fyi. At this point, I'm  more  scared of the bearing  failure  than the corona virus....not  really. I really like Mobil One products. Time will tell if I screwed up.

[Zoom Zoom]

No moly in engine. They were using full synthetic. You can use moly in the 5 speed box and the rear drive should have it.

ZZ

[bad Chad]

They shipped with synthetic motor oil from the factory at least since the late 90s.   20w50 is fine for a Quta, but 10w60 is too.

[Lannis]

I would just say "Check the Owner's Manual and use the recommended oil".

But I suppose that no one really wants to hear that.

Lannis

[kingoffleece]

As mentioned quite a while ago on this topic, I've seen a MG factory bulletin advising that 1100 motors call for 20-50 is superseded now to 10-60.  As above, 20-50 would also be fine.

[Old Jock]

I don't own a quota but I put full synth in all my Guzzis and they are older still

I watched a YouTube Mecahnic (so it must be true) who stated that Synth is better at finding leak paths than dyno even with oils of the same viscosity and that's where the myth that synth will cause leaks comes from.

No idea if that was true but I don't believe for a nanosecond that Dino is better than full Synthetic in any engine. At worst you may be wasting some dollars purchasing synthetic when all its benefits might be less than optimal for that particular engine, but at best your prolonging life of the engine.

YMMV

[Spuddy]

Thank you Guzzistas.

I used 10w60 Liqui Moly Synthetic in the crankcase since 10w60 is specified for my '13 Stelvio and I already had it in the garage.

And now I finally installed an Outsider it took an extra .5 liter to register on the dipstick. Any comments?

Finally, I've got moly, but is it over kill with 75w140 synthetic the the trans and rear drive?

Spud

[Cal3Me]

I've never heard of a guzzi rear drive wearing out because it didn't have moly in the oil ?  and probably none of us will live long enough to find out 

I use regular 20w50 dino oil in both of my quota's and no $$$ extra additives

[Mr Revhead]

Okay, I suppose this is an update to the continuing oil question. 

But my shop buddy inferred I was remiss using 10w60 Liqui Moly in the crankcase of my Quota. As well as synthetic gear oils in the transmission and final drive. He suggests dino oil is "better" for the seals in all 3 applications.  It he correct?

Spud

Nope he is 100% wrong. What it might do on a dirty high mileage engine is clean it up a bit. Cleaning some of that gunk out of some old hard seals might cause some weeping. But so would a new generation quality non synthetic. Remember viscosity? How can the same viscosity oil leak more? It can't.

In these air cooled engines, synthetic handles the higher temps better than non synthetic. So it will last longer and be more effective longer than conventional oil.

The trick is to make sure you are using a proper synthetic and not a "marketing label" synthetic ;)
 

[Furbo]

Having blown up 2 Guzzi engines and broken a crank on a Laverda 750 you'd think I'd be a big proponent for Synthetics, and I used to be. No more.

None of those blowups had anything to do with oil.

IMHO - what eventually kills a big block Guzzi is far more likely to be an accident, abandonment, wear from lack of proper maintenance, flaking cylinders, mass electrical failure, frustration at parts availability - but the engine is very unlikely to fail as long as it has a suitable SAE oil change at regular intervals. Guzzi's like most bikes, meet their end with a functional motor.

So - SAE Dino oil at regular intervals. If  you're racing - whole different gig. Otherwise, spend the $$ elsewhere.   

Just my &.02

[s1120]

Ive used synth oils for many years, and most of the bad things you hear are from storys that happened back in the early days of people using it. Remember how bad the engines slugeded up back in the 60's, and 70's?  Those first synth oils, got poured into those cars, and just cleaned all the crud out, and oil just flowed from the seals!!  Different time, and situation. I ended up using the Mobil 1 20w50 Vtwin oil..  might not be the best, but its at pretty much every store you go to to look for oil..  its not that much more then normal oil, and it was the right weight..  No brainier.

[Yeahoo Whoyah]

[mondtster]

Ive used synth oils for many years, and most of the bad things you hear are from storys that happened back in the early days of people using it.

That has been my observation as well. I did run into trouble with leaks last year on a really low mile, original Triumph (I finished the engine break in last summer 40+ years after it was new). It was dry while running the break in oil so I thought I'd be fine but it started leaking everywhere almost immediately after I switched to synthetic. Unfortunately, switching back to natural oil didn't stop what had started so I'm rebuilding the engine now to seal it up again.