1400 rear wheel removal-shocks on or off?

[mjhinno]

Getting ready for the first rear wheel removal on a 2016 Eldo with 6,500 miles. Seen the "shortcut" of dropping the shocks so the axle hangs below the mufflers but seems to me a good way to over stress the u-joint, boot, or other goodies. Opinions from those with experience pulling the guts out of the driveline?
Pete R, still recommending swing arm bearing grease inquisition? Thanks!
BTW-I cut a 25mm bushing in half lengthwise and fixed both shells open sides up to some extruded aluminum box section I had. They cradle the frame crossmember just ahead of the swingarm pivot and I can now use my MC jack with a flat plate and this box section running parallel to and between the 2 jack runners. Lifts the aft end nice and securely while the front stays planted on the ground. I suppose a 1 x 2 with a V notch down the middle would accomplish the same thing but I have lots of old parts, tools, and a dozen honey-do list reasons to stay in the shop after work and fiddle with this crap.
And to keep the bike upright while getting the jack under (or checking engine oil), unscrew the aluminum grinder peg under the right footrest bracket and screw in a (about 7.25" long) M8 x 1.25 threaded rod in its place. Put an acorn nut on the bottom end to protect your driveway.Not secure enough for an opposite-side side stand but close enough for government work to hold the bike upright and 2 degrees off level.

[et18]

On my touring I remove the left shock only to allow more clearance for the brake caliper.  The screw heads strip easily so I replace them every 2nd or 3rd time, they're cheap so I keep a few on hand.

[Tom]

Blocks of wood are your friends.     Unless you have a cherry picker engine hoist. 

[lucian]

Blocks of wood are your friends.     Unless you have a cherry picker engine hoist. 

Plus One 
Remember your'e dealing with an 800 lb. bike that wants to tip over and kill you. And yes, removing the rear shock top mounts is much easier than pulling the exhaust. You wont harm the U joint by dropping the swingarm down enough to pull the axle below the mufflers.  You must then pull the caliper and carrier to make room to pull the wheel over off the cush drive. Be aware the wheel and rim aren't light . Sideways forces are required which could easily tip the bike over if not properly secured. 

[johnl]

If you remove the muffler mounting bolts they will drop down below the axle on the flexible couplings. You need to lift the caliper bracket and hold it out of the way and the ABS line runs under the brake hose so don't bend it too sharply. You will need to get the rear up quite high to get the wheel out unless you remove the back half of the mudguard. Before you lift it too high pull the axle out far enough to remove the spacer and caliper bracket and then push axle back in and see if the wheel moves easily on the splines, in true Guzzi fashion some of them are not greased and it can take a fair bit of effort to break it free on the splines the 1st time you take it off.

[OldMojo]

Don't forget that this will be your only opportunity to change out the rear end oil.

[jbhotchkiss]

Don't forget that this will be your only opportunity to change out the rear end oil.

And when changing out the rear end oil, be careful not to overfill, as I did, resulting in an unsightly mess on the rim/tire.

[ampm7]

Doing the job as we speak. I can't seem to find my 14mm hex socket! I will remove the lower shock screws to let the swingarm fall down somewhat to help in removing the tire. I've done this job before on different bikes and I always service the spline and final drive oil. It was a lot easier on my sport bikes.

[moto-uno]

  ^  14mm pretty well equals a 9/16"  . Peter

[ampm7]

After propping the bike up with the help of my brother I had to put an additional jack under the crossmember of the swingarm which negates taking off the lower shock bolts. Why didn't Guzzi put a lifting ring under the seat so you could use a cherry picker with the front chock. I bought a front chock from Harbor Freight but you cannot use the rear tipping metal as it is too narrow for the Eldo tire. Plus the front chock really needs to be through bolted in cement or whatever. However, I did use it. I suppose I could pound the axle out with a wooden dowel but I'll wait until the 14mm hex comes as I don't have a 9/16 hex. I could of sworn that I had a 14mm somewhere around here...

[rfguy]

Got a 2014 California 1400 Custom here. I use one of the roll-on front wheel chocks. Roll on to it, strap the handlebars to the chock's hookeyes. Lay a good 20-30 lb weight on the front fender (couple of old truck brake discs wrapped up in a blanket for me). This will keep the front end down while you jack under the engine block. I use an old Harbor Freight ATV lift with a 12" 2x4 laying cross-wise at the very rear of the ATV lift's platform. Bike is reasonably stable with this setup. Also doing a tail-tidy, removing the stock tail light assembly and then side mounting the tag makes wheel removal quite a bit easier.....

[Ncdan]

It has been recommended here by some of the guys to check the swing arm bearings while changing the rear tire as it’s my understanding some have been found to be either under greased or no grease.

[mjhinno]

Thanks very much guys. For certain planning on final drive fluid change and spline lube. Not so certain about swing arm bearings-see how I'm feeling when I do it. Dry run for a tire change, but probably have 2k+ left on this one. I ride fast but guess not as hard as I think-Hamlin said tire would be toast at 6k when I bought the bike in September. Won't go past 4 years regardless.