Ohlin shocks

[John A]

On Craigslist, just found that’s all I know
https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hnp/mpo/d/minneapolis-ohlin-piggyback-shocks/7125582132.html

[Old Jock]

Nice if they are the right length and I was on the other side of the pond I'd have snapped them up

[TexMexStrada]

For the professionals in this group: Would this fit a V7III? The indicated length calculates out to 368mm, meaning pretty much a +20mm option over stock, which is what I'm actually looking for, but what else do I need to consider in terms of fit? Thank you in advance!

As far as I can tell, these are S36P, HO 140 model is my best guess right now

[usedtobefast]

A few things to consider:
1. Do these have compression and rebound adjustments?  I don't see any.

2. What's the spring rate and how does that compare to what you need?

3. What is the shock stroke amount and how does that compare?

4. Theoretically, they should be valved for a particular motorcycle.  So if the first bike it was for had shocks in a more vertical or less vertical design than your Guzzi , then theoretically the valving could be off.  I using "theoretically" because I'm not sure Ohlins really changes them for each application ... their fork kits for example come with 1 valving stack, doesn't matter if you are on a track or touring or sport road riding etc you get the same valving stack (but this is on a compression/rebound clicker fork).

So, they could be fantastic or horrible!    

If you have to change springs and get a revalve done and they don't have clickers, you are probably better off going for some custom made Wilbers or other bands like that. 

[TexMexStrada]

A few things to consider:
1. Do these have compression and rebound adjustments?  I don't see any.

2. What's the spring rate and how does that compare to what you need?

3. What is the shock stroke amount and how does that compare?

4. Theoretically, they should be valved for a particular motorcycle.  So if the first bike it was for had shocks in a more vertical or less vertical design than your Guzzi , then theoretically the valving could be off.  I using "theoretically" because I'm not sure Ohlins really changes them for each application ... their fork kits for example come with 1 valving stack, doesn't matter if you are on a track or touring or sport road riding etc you get the same valving stack (but this is on a compression/rebound clicker fork).

So, they could be fantastic or horrible!    

If you have to change springs and get a revalve done and they don't have clickers, you are probably better off going for some custom made Wilbers or other bands like that.

Thank you for the feedback! Yup, all very valid observations. I got a little more info: they are labeled KA 1440, which I will guess means they are KA 144s, so for a Kawa ZRX1100 (1997-99). The length doesn't exactly match up, Ohlins labels them 362mm, but the rest does. The spring is a progressive rate 18-27N/mm.

As to the alignment of the shock, they are very similar. The ZXR is heavier, but I run my v7III with H&B saddlebags with tools/etc all the time, and fully loaded down (top case plus pillion) frequently, so valving for a stouter bike may actually work out well....
But yes, you are correct, forcing something to work is a major gamble, especially as these are non-adjustable (except for pre-load of course) and there are options (like GTM's 2WS) that are brand new and made to spec for a similar price... or higher end options (Matris, K-Tech) that can be had for the price of these and a re-valving charge.
Would vintage Ohlins be better than 2020 middle of the road / upper end shocks? 

There is a Mexican saying that goes: "The cheap stuff always comes out expensive" and I'm thinking that may be the case here...

[TexMexStrada]

Ok folks, I ended up buying these and putting them on my 2018 V7III Stone!

TLDR: THEY ARE BRILLIANT! Thank you so much to the OP for sharing and to all for your feedback!
If your setup is similar to mine (V7III with full H&B luggage, H&B crash bars, OEM Centerstand)



and you can get the Ohlins 36P, Model KA144 (Labeled as KA 1440 on the shock)



grab them and put them on your bike!

Technical Description:
- The Ohlins K144 were designed for a Kawasaki ZXR 1100. That bike is 545# wet and has a weight distribution on 49/51, meaning the rear suspension weight is 277.95# without the rider.
- The 2018 V7III Stone is 460# wet from the factory with a weight distribution of 46/54. But mine has a full set of H&B luggage, the OEM Centerstand, H&B crashbars (as well as Mistral short exhaust pipes sine I took the picture above). I also carry tools and service items in my bags on every ride. Furthermore, I've done some modifications to my ergonomics, plus I've raised the forks 12mm in the tree. Long story short, my best estimate of my bike's curb weight is 505# wet & ready to ride with a weight distribution estimate of 45/55, meaning the rear suspension weight is about 277.75#
- While I didn't have a ZRX on hand to measure, based upon studying countless pictures, the mounting angle of the rear shocks is very very similar on the two bikes, within a few degrees at most.
- the OEM shocks (or broomsticks as one of the Italian guys on a V7 FB Group lovingly referred to them recently) are 350mm in length and provide a travel of 80mm.
- the Ohlins KA144 are 362mm in length and provide a travel of 96mm. They also run the 00480-03 Ohlins springs which a 18-27Nmm progressive spring, same load rating AF1 calls the "+2" on V7 Ohlins springs and recommends for riders from 220# to 250# (I am 220# geared up).



- When installed, with the preload rings in the "0" position (Meaning no additional preload. There is also a "1" setting (roughly 10mm) and a 2 setting (roughly 20mm)), the dynamic sag with my bike carrying the stuff I usually ride with and me on it is 32mm... considering the 96mm travel that is textbook perfect. 

Riding Impressions:
- As mentioned above, they are brilliant. I put 300 miles on them so far, 150 solo, and 150 2up. They handled both fantastically. 2up I set preload in the "2" position, pillion weight is 120#.
- The difference in the composure of the rear on poor surfaces and over big bumps between the OEM broomsticks and the Ohlins is night and day. Railroad crossings and bumps that used to launch me out of my seat or required me getting up onto the pegs to avoid disaster are now handled with barely a small jolt and with my butt staying planted in the seat. And that is even if I attack them with excessive enthusiasm.
- Highway expansion joints have magically disappeared from existence.
- Mid-corner bumps solo or 2up are handled with aplomb, the chassis stays planted, and the braking/acceleration rocking-horse effect is reduced, dramatically improving cornering stability.
- The math regarding the rear suspension weight used for the spring & damping comparison seems to have worked out spot on, these shocks feel custom made for my bike.
- The bike is transformed for the better, though now it is even more glaringly obvious how terrible the front forks are.... there are some cartridges on my horizon, that is for sure.

Important things I learned regarding the installation, I hope this is helpful to others modifying their V7III shocks:
- The mounting posts on the V7III (at least the 2018 I have) have a diameter of 12mm and a length of 20.7mm. That is true for the posts on top as well as the mounting bolts on the bottom.
- You can find 12mm ID/ 14mm OD/ 20mm length bushings on Amazon prime much cheaper (under $10 for a set of 6) than ordering them from Ohlins (to be fair, they will be brass, not stainless steel)
- You will have a hell of a time finding 12mm ID shim washers with a thickness of about 7mm and less than 20mm OD, but I found some 0.5inch ID ones (12.7mm, close enough for rock'n'roll) on Amazon prime without issue. (under $20 for a pack of 50)
- You will have to custom order 14mm ID / Less than 20mm OD / less than 1mm thickness shim washers to line up the shocks correctly on the 14mm bushings (the heads on both sides of the shocks on the Ohlins, as will probably be the case with most aftermarket shocks, are narrower than the clunky OEM broomsticks). I ended up just manually modifying the 0.5inch ID washers mentioned above to increase their ID to 14mm. A couple of hours of elbow grease & finesse with a hand file to make a set (8 in total), and they were golden.
- Ohlins requires the KA144 to be mounted right side up (so shock body on top) with the piggyback behind the shock (so facing the rear). In this setup the arm of the piggyback will clear the H&B top case luggage rack, but just barely, with 2mm of clearance. If these shocks had clickers, I have my doubts if they would fit, or at least the clickers may get damaged when the shocks flex in their bushings under load. Not sure if they will fit with the other racks or with the OEM Guzzi grab handles.
- While the total shock length is up 12mm over stock, the additional 16mm of travel, and therefore additional 5.3mm of sag, (resulting in only 6.7mm of actual dynamic length change) mean the change in the rear swingarm/shaft drive angle is marginal at best. So this setup should have no impact on your driveline components unless you are at full extension. But if you are at full extension it means you are airborne, which also means you have a whole other set of issues to worry about in short order and there is no load on your driveline at that time anyways.

I hope this is helpful to y'all, and another huge "Thank you!" to the OP and all who helped along the way with your feedback!

PS: for anybody looking to adapt Ohlins shocks to another bike than they were originally intended for, here is a link to an Ohlins parts list: http://www.pro-techsuspension.com/?jet_download=2393
This will be really helpful if you are trying to figure out eyelet sizes, spring dimensions, etc.. Also give you an idea of what you can custom order from an Ohlins dealer if you can't find a matching aftermarket part somewhere else. 
 

[malik]

Very well done. I'm insanely/inanely jealous.

[John A]

Good write up.  I’m pleased it worked out so well.  I would have snagged them but I’m happy with the Hagen nitros that I bought from someone here, John

[TexMexStrada]

Very well done. I'm insanely/inanely jealous.

Thank you Sir!

[TexMexStrada]

Good write up.  I’m pleased it worked out so well.  I would have snagged them but I’m happy with the Hagen nitros that I bought from someone here, John

Thank you for your kind words! And thank you once again for sharing the link, I appreciate you!

[huub]

I run a pair of OEM XJR1200 ohlins shocks on both my le mans and my Lario,
i picked them up on Ebay, i had them revalved because  the compression damping was too harsh. ( to be expected with the 15 kilo drive box on the guzzi)
now they are pretty brilliant, way better than the hagons and IKON i had before.
even with  the cost of revalving they were a lot cheaper than buying new Ikons/hagons.
so absolutely recommended..

[TexMexStrada]

I run a pair of OEM XJR1200 ohlins shocks on both my le mans and my Lario,
i picked them up on Ebay, i had them revalved because  the compression damping was too harsh. ( to be expected with the 15 kilo drive box on the guzzi)
now they are pretty brilliant, way better than the hagons and IKON i had before.
even with  the cost of revalving they were a lot cheaper than buying new Ikons/hagons.
so absolutely recommended..

Very cool! Thank you for sharing!
I was surprised actually that the shaft drive didn't adversely impact the damping (it is a hair stiff at very slow speeds, but perfect past 20mph), guess the swingarm/real wheel on the ZXR must be fairly heavy.

[jacksonracingcomau]

I have a set same model actually sold as for Guzzis, I used to sell them at time (late 80’s)
Were on my le mans for years, now on my lario, well over 150k miles on them
They’ve been rebuilt a few times, new seals / seal heads etc but never have I needed to revalve, still behave superbly
I have 4 different rate pairs of springs, each has it’s time and place

Sounds like you could’t be happier but if you ever want finer preload adjustment, the adjuster is ( or was) held in place with circlip (remove spring to change) . Normally initial preload (0) is set at 10mm less than spring length but doesn’t have to be.,  +- 5mm increments I think. Also useful if you have springs to try that are different length  but correct id

Good score

[kingoffleece]

Yep.  The Ohlins I had on my V7 were the same way.  I needed to spent the time with Hamlin at his shop to set the sag as doing so required spring removal and a circlip to change basic sag settings.  When we got that right full install on bike and then there was a fine preload adjustment with a limited but useful range, tension adjustment, compression adjustment, and speed adjustments.  Easy to get all those wrong but master Jim really helped get me in the ballpark and I took it from there over a few weeks.
When correctly set up-pure heaven.  Correctly being the key word, mind.

[TexMexStrada]

I have a set same model actually sold as for Guzzis, I used to sell them at time (late 80’s)
Were on my le mans for years, now on my lario, well over 150k miles on them
They’ve been rebuilt a few times, new seals / seal heads etc but never have I needed to revalve, still behave superbly
I have 4 different rate pairs of springs, each has it’s time and place

Sounds like you could’t be happier but if you ever want finer preload adjustment, the adjuster is ( or was) held in place with circlip (remove spring to change) . Normally initial preload (0) is set at 10mm less than spring length but doesn’t have to be.,  +- 5mm increments I think. Also useful if you have springs to try that are different length  but correct id

Good score

Thank you for sharing! And thank you for clarifying the circlip! I figured that that was an option, but wasn't sure. Now I know, much appreciated!

[TexMexStrada]

Yep.  The Ohlins I had on my V7 were the same way.  I needed to spent the time with Hamlin at his shop to set the sag as doing so required spring removal and a circlip to change basic sag settings.  When we got that right full install on bike and then there was a fine preload adjustment with a limited but useful range, tension adjustment, compression adjustment, and speed adjustments.  Easy to get all those wrong but master Jim really helped get me in the ballpark and I took it from there over a few weeks.
When correctly set up-pure heaven.  Correctly being the key word, mind.

Thank you for your feedback! Yup, that is why I am so happy that they are pretty spot on right out of the box. couldn't find anything to complain about in the first 300 miles, and I put them through their paces pretty well. The trickiest part in the whole process was the installation and making sure they sit exactly upright by playing with the shim washers. And of course making the 12.7mm shim washers into 14mm shim washers, that was a good arm workout.