Mods for 09 Stelvio

[inditx]

Greetings,

Provided all goes as planned, I should be back on an 09 Stelvio this Saturday! 

So, please remind me of the following answers;

* What windscreen or attachment do I need to stop the buffeting?
* What heated grips, stock or otherwise are best?
* What mirrors are good replacements?
* How do I move the turn signals to the fairing from the stock mirrors?

Thanks mates!
inditx
p.s. Pics will follow....

[pete roper]

First and foremost make sure it's rollerised. Secondly check the swingarm bearings and shock linkage.

AF1 sell a kit for moving the indicators to the fairing, I think it comes with mirrors. Heated grips? Oxfords? No idea on the windscreen question.

[John Warner]

Mods you say?   







As Pete says, Roller Conversion is the #1 most important thing.

Indicators, you need the 'Euro' Kit.
https://www.guzzitech.com/forums/threads/turn-signal-lenses.5120/#post-37876

Original Screen works much better upside down.
sounds daft, but believe me it's so much better you'd think they fitted it wrong at the Factory.

Spacing it forwards and upwards as well makes it just about perfect.

4 Small Extension Plates, and some Rubber Washers, all home-made . . .




Getting Air flowing up the rear of the screen (any Screen) makes it act like an Aerofoil, instead of a Windbreak, so eliminating virtually all turbulence.






I can sit at 100mph+ with no buffeting.
It's no coincidence that every single add-on 'Deflector' you can buy is made to have a gap between it and the Screen, rather than just extending the Screen's height.

As for Mirrors, as above, you can't beat Fairing-Mounted varieties.

Other useful Mods;

Additional Earth Lead from Battery -ve Terminal to an Engine Bellhousing Bolt.
Additional Charging lead from Alternator Terminal to Battery +ve Terminal.
Thermostat in the Cooling Oil Circuit.
Replace the useless Hella Fog Lights for decent LED type, or at the very least re-insulate the internal Wiring, it chafes and shorts out, blowing the Main Fuse that protects the Charging Circuit. No warning, you're just left stranded with a dead Battery.
Grease Nipples on Shock Links.
Rewire Headlights so both High-Beams work (only one is wired in from Factory), and add a Relay.

[severely]

Double down on the rollerization. I have a Givi windshield on mine and it works for me at 6'1". I also have GW rider footpegs and a riser block to raise the handlebar. Installed Kuryakin replica grips, large diameter. Changed the fork oil to 5wt. BTW, Guzzidiag is your friend and get the TB synch tool also, you won't believe how smooth the engine is when the TPS is reset,TB's are synched at speed AND idle. Ride well and often.

[inditx]

All you guys rock! 
I've said it before and I'll say it again, best forum out there!
Vin check says rollers and triple tree done.
Thanks much and keep any other ideas a comin’!
Jack aka inditx 

[inditx]

Mods you say?   







As Pete says, Roller Conversion is the #1 most important thing.

Indicators, you need the 'Euro' Kit.
https://www.guzzitech.com/forums/threads/turn-signal-lenses.5120/#post-37876

Original Screen works much better upside down.
sounds daft, but believe me it's so much better you'd think they fitted it wrong at the Factory.

Spacing it forwards and upwards as well makes it just about perfect.

4 Small Extension Plates, and some Rubber Washers, all home-made . . .




Getting Air flowing up the rear of the screen (any Screen) makes it act like an Aerofoil, instead of a Windbreak, so eliminating virtually all turbulence.






I can sit at 100mph+ with no buffeting.
It's no coincidence that every single add-on 'Deflector' you can buy is made to have a gap between it and the Screen, rather than just extending the Screen's height.

As for Mirrors, as above, you can't beat Fairing-Mounted varieties.

Other useful Mods;

Additional Earth Lead from Battery -ve Terminal to an Engine Bellhousing Bolt.
Additional Charging lead from Alternator Terminal to Battery +ve Terminal.
Thermostat in the Cooling Oil Circuit.
Replace the useless Hella Fog Lights for decent LED type, or at the very least re-insulate the internal Wiring, it chafes and shorts out, blowing the Main Fuse that protects the Charging Circuit. No warning, you're just left stranded with a dead Battery.
Grease Nipples on Shock Links.
Rewire Headlights so both High-Beams work (only one is wired in from Factory), and add a Relay.

Hey Doc,
Do you have any pre-remade extensions for the windshield and hardware by chance?
Thanks either way.
Jack

[inditx]

HOLD THE PHONE! as they say.
Only a cam replacement was done under a campaign, the bike was not “rollerized”! qwo[rhc7ty34fn[ewfvgqep!!
So, the hunt continues I’m afraid..... 
inditx

[pete roper]

This is what I was just about to say. The only way to know it's been rollerised is to look.

[inditx]

Right you are once again Sir Pete Roper!
Whew!

[severely]

Same thing happened to me. I understood the recall to be rollerization NOPE, so I got an opportunity to learn about the roller conversion on my dime. Good luck, I spent the money and have no regrets.

[John Warner]

Hey Doc,
Do you have any pre-remade extensions for the windshield and hardware by chance?
Thanks either way.
Jack

Where are you based Jack?
Could easily knock-up another set, but might be a couple of weeks until I have the time though.

I also shortened the Screen, took approx 40mm off the lower edge (what was originally the top).
That was before I raised it with the Plates, so you probably wouldn't need to do that.

Depending on your height, I'd probably make the Plates a little longer.
It's OK for me on the highest setting, but only just.

[inditx]

Where are you based Jack?
Could easily knock-up another set, but might be a couple of weeks until I have the time though.

I also shortened the Screen, took approx 40mm off the lower edge (what was originally the top).
That was before I raised it with the Plates, so you probably wouldn't need to do that.

Depending on your height, I'd probably make the Plates a little longer.
It's OK for me on the highest setting, but only just.

Thanks so much Doc, but the deal went sideways due to lack of rollerization.
I’ll certainly let you know if I find another.
Oh I’m in Kansas City btw.
inditx

[John Warner]

Hope you've not given up in your search?
If you get one of the later models, with the larger Screen, I'd still try spacing it out, and up a little.

[Lannis]

Hope you've not given up in your search?
If you get one of the later models, with the larger Screen, I'd still try spacing it out, and up a little.

Also (for your note file if you find the right bike), when it comes to the high beam modification, make SURE you use an additional relay for the high beam current (as has been mentioned).   If the current for both high beams all goes through the handlebar switch, it will burn the switch up after a few weeks ....

Lannis

[inditx]

Thanks mates but I went to the dark side and bought an 09 GS.
And now Enzo comes up with a 10 Stelvio!!! Oh the guilt.
Not really, probably buy a V85 in a year or two.
I love MG, Cadre, this forum and kinda like GS’s too....
inditx

[guzzi ride]

inditx, BTW the Stelvio went to a good home.

[inditx]

Rub it in!
Enjoy

[John Warner]

My latest Mod.
The Forks on my '09 Stelvio have a few small areas where the Chrome is flaking, most likely from stone damage.
I'm going to strip them down and send them off for re-chroming, but didn't want to be without the Bike while they're being done.

2010 MultiStrada Forks, 50mm, same as the originals, but with separate Comp & Rebound Adjusters on both legs.





Almost a straight swap.
Had to make Split-Sleeves for the Upper Yoke, the Duke Forks are 1mm smaller at the top than the Stelvio's (58mm top & bottom), and one for the Axle Head, the Duke version has a larger diameter.







Also had to relocate the ABS Sensor, the Duke's is on the left, and has a smaller Sensor and Sensor Ring, made up a Bracket for it.
Will probably relocate it to the right at some point, with a simpler Bracket screwed to the lower Caliper Lug.





Disc spacing on the Duke is the same as the Griso/Norge/Sport(?) etc, so off came the Spacers I made to fit the Griso Wheel to it originally . . .



I still needed the inner part to centre the Discs on the Hub, so I parted off a 4mm slice and used that.
The Spacers will still be good if/when I refit the Stelvio Forks.


Why the Ducati Forks?
They're the same overall length, and they have separate Rebound and Compression Adjusters in each Leg, the Stelvio has Comp in one, Rebound in the other.
Also, they were £250, the Stelvio ones go for £800+, if you can find any.

They also have the Axle in-line with the Forks, the Leading Axle Fittings on the Stelvio are prone to cracking, although that's almost certainly down to ham-fisted (and non-sequential) tightening of the Pinch Bolts.

[John Warner]

Got my Fork Fittings off, so I can get the Stanchions re-chromed.
Managed to get one fitting off with just a large Strap Wrench, but the other took a bit more effort.
Had to machine up a pair of Clamping Blocks so I could hold the Stanchion in the Vice, then with a lot of heat on the Fitting, and a large Adjustable, managed to unscrew it.




Nice easy Forks to strip, and quite light for their size.

[Lannis]

Got my Fork Fittings off, so I can get the Stanchions re-chromed.
Managed to get one fitting off with just a large Strap Wrench, but the other took a bit more effort.
Had to machine up a pair of Clamping Blocks so I could hold the Stanchion in the Vice, then with a lot of heat on the Fitting, and a large Adjustable, managed to unscrew it.




Nice easy Forks to strip, and quite light for their size.

I've had my Stelvio forks completely apart a couple times (once to install different-rate springs and once for a damaged seal), but I never knew that those end fittings screwed off of the stanchions; I thought they were permanently on there.

Come to think of it, I never thought about how they might have been permanently on there.   Pressed on with an adhesive, I suppose.   Glad to know they come off, the manual says nothing about it.

Lannis

[severely]

Are the threads right or left handed?

[John Warner]

Normal R/H threads.

Probably not meant to be a 'normal' job for DIY.
Luckily, I'm not a 'normal' owner . . . 

I think all USD Forks have screw-on Fittings, only 'safe' way to do it really.
They have a locking Grub-Screw on each as well, bears on the Stanchion Thread when tightened.
Given just how much high-strength Thread-Lock was in there (hence the amount of heat required to loosen it all), the Grub-Screw is pretty-much redundant.
Once the Forks are fitted of course, there's no way the Fittings/Stanchions could come undone anyway.

[pete roper]

To the best of my knowledge all USD forks use the same threaded staunchion retention method and yes, they are a complete bastard to remove.

[John Warner]

Dropped the Stanchions off at the Platers today, 80 mile round-trip.
Ducati Forks work well on the Stelvio.
Feels very slightly different in the corners, takes a minuscule amount of effort to tip in, and hold a line, whereas before it was totally neutral in the corners, and verging on unstable the way it tipped in (how I like it).
It's definitely a bit 'softer' on the front, probably a good thing on our slimy Winter Roads, so I'll leave it as-is for now.

[John Warner]

Nah!
Couldn't resist . . .

The Tool for removing the Ducati Fork Caps arrived Tuesday, so I whipped the Springs out yesterday.
Managed to do it with the Forks in-situ.

Was going to leave the original Springs in for a while, at least until the weather improves a bit, but couldn't resist!

The Springs are very similar to the Stelvio items, around 7mm longer, with more Coils (therefore 'softer').
Stelvio Springs dropped straight in.

Will try them out in the next few days.

Stelvio Spring on right.

[John Warner]

Today's Mod.
Ducky approves . . .


Lever reach is adjustable, but has nothing to restrict the free-play at full extension.
I'm using a Cable-Tie at the moment (not shown) to keep it within reach.
I'll remake the adjuster Barrel Nut, with an extended bit underneath to ride in a slotted plate, to restrict the movement forwards.
Also need to make up a support for the Reservoir.