Boofhead of the week!

[Das]

So, a self inflicted tragedy.  2013 V7 Stone.  I had need to access the area beneath the petrol tank in order to position some wiring required for the fitting of heated grips.  No need to actually remove the tank said I to myself when all I need to do is raise it enough to create space for hand access.  I duly undid retaining bolt at the back of the tank, slid the tank up and back then carefully slid a couple of lengths of timber beneath it for support.  So far all good.  The boofhead moment arrived when I decided to roll the bike forward thinking things were stable enough to handle the movement.  Not so.  The tank inevitably slipped sideways and down in the process breaking the plastic T piece that exits the quick release fuel line and sends fuel to each cylinder.  Big trouble in Little China.  What to do? I imagine obtaining such an obscure part will entail a long delay. I offer this story on the offchance, the slender possibility, that some other worthy among us may have had the same bridge to cross. Could it be so? In any event maybe someone has a brilliant idea regarding how to move forward.  Any thoughts?

[Ncdan]

Sorry for your accident Das!
I’m not sure but I think I’ve read a post here where the plastic part you have broken was replaced by a much better metal valve which is also much easier to obtain.
Maybe someone else can confirm and offer more useable information for you👍

[BMCMOTO]

Try Motion Pro.

Brian

[TN Mark]

Remove the broken one and take it to a good auto parts store. They may be have a solution. Also, try places like Amazon as they very likely have the identical part. I doubt Moto Guzzi has it made specially for them. It’s likely used on many other applications. All the best to you in getting this fixed quickly.

Several have broken the plastic nipple off the fuel pump assembly on the Victory motorcycles. There’s a quick and easy fix with epoxy and a small length of metal tubing. Plus the connectors are readily available because again, Polaris isn’t the only one using these standard items.

[Perazzimx14]

Picture is worth a 1000 words. Lots of places to get fuel fittings just need to know what we are up against.

My preferred is CPC brand in brass. Not cheap but you never break another.

[Das]

Thank you gentlemen.  Good suggestions all.  I did think to myself once the accident had happened that a metal T piece would have been a much more robust part to have put there in the beginning.  I did not think of the possibility of it being a generic item that I could obtain from other sources.  When I look closely at the two lines leading away from the T one seems to be relatively straightforward being a rubber kind of hose while the other seems more problematical - some kind of heat shrink plastic type number, sort of bonded to the T for life!  Nonetheless I will do my best to be exceedingly cunning and see what eventuates.

[Das]

Not sure if this worked.  Photos of the situation.  Hopefully viewable!

[Perazzimx14]

Not sure if this worked.  Photos of the situation.  Hopefully viewable!

From the picture I think it looks like:

ODYW
06,30
PA12

If I google ODYW fuel connector lots of choices come up.

If you want to get riding today i get a 1/4" (maybe 3/8") brass barbed fuel tee a 1/4" brass barbed coupling, FI hose and some FI hose clamps.

Pull the broken connector out of the supply hose install one end of the brass barbed cplg and do the same with the tee fitting. Then add in section of new FI hose between enough that you can lift the tank up for access.

 

[Roebling3]

SEARCH FOR COLDER PRODUCTS, BASED IN MINNESOTA, USA. If I'm on the right track - from your description, they offer the best quick connects and other fittings in brass, stainless steel and plastic. Don't waste your $$ on the plastics. They turn brittle being exposed to fuel. Cold temperatures add to the weakness.  Good fortune,   R3~

[Perazzimx14]

SEARCH FOR COLDER PRODUCTS, BASED IN MINNESOTA, USA. If I'm on the right track - from your description, they offer the best quick connects and other fittings in brass, stainless steel and plastic. Don't waste your $$ on the plastics. They turn brittle being exposed to fuel. Cold temperatures add to the weakness.  Good fortune,   R3~

Colder = CPC

[Das]

Here is what I appreciate about this forum.  I live in an obscure corner of Australia, rarely sight another Guzzi of any description, read this forum as a kind of religious duty but very seldom post.  On the few occasions I have had need of assistance I have been impressed by the willingness of the brotherhood and sisterhood to take the time to ponder my situation and come up with solutions. As yet I have not had the time to pursue a new course of action but I will not leave the issue hanging so long as my beloved motorcycle is in sick bay.  I will of course post once things are sorted so that others might find out what works in this case.  In any event a big thank you to all involved.     Das.

[Ncdan]

You guys down there are the best👍👍

[Das]

So, here is what I have discovered.  It may be of some help should anyone else stray down the same path. There is no way to remove the broken T piece and replace it with a new and improved version.  As they say 'don't ask me how I know'!  The whole fuel line assembly which runs from cylinder to cylinder has to be replaced which will run to the tune of $154 Aussie dollars.  No super big deal but that's the way the cookie crumbles.  Also the dealer thinks it may be a superseded part so it may not actually fit!  That has yet to be revealed.

The alternative option is to source a generic T piece and cobble up an assembly using appropriate fuel line and clamps doing my best to retain the original fuel line ends which kind of bolt onto the injectors and which are specific to Moto Guzzi (at least I think they would be). The trick will be to get the original fuel line off of them without damage to the ends - tricky because the fuel line is kind of heat shrunk onto them in a 'permanent' bond.  Nonetheless, where there is a will there is a way!  I include a photo of the part which needs replacing and will report on progress in due course.


save any image
 

[Das]

Yes.  Thank you for that idea Zoom Zoom.  One arm of the fuel line which the broken bit is connected to is surrounded by a thick rubber hose, shrouding the fuel line.  Could be an issue getting enough heat to the actual fuel line.  In addition, in an attempt to remove the broken bit I kind of wriggled and pulled at the rubber hose thinking it was the fuel line itself and would simply slide off a presumed serrated flange.  Another genius move on my part. Of course all I managed to do was tear and rupture the actual fuel line hidden beneath the rubber hose.  Out of the frying pan and into the fire!.  Now I have two things broken beyond repair.  The T piece and the fuel line.  So the current move is to obtain a replacement complete fuel line assembly.  Apparently the part now comes without a quick release arm on the T, instead it has a permanently bonded fuel line running off the bit and relies on the quick release at the tank itself as the separation point (fuel tank from fuel line).  Now it is simply a matter of being patient and allowing it to arrive in due course.  I could of course cobble together an arrangement using conventional fuel line and clamps but if the wait is not too long I am willing to suffer the cost of my foolishness and have an original assembly fitted.  I will report on the conclusion of the matter   

[Moparnut72]

Kinda why I have two bikes. Insurance against stupidity.
kk

[guzzisteve]

I remember when they added that green sq button, I thought how nice. It is superseded back to the old part w/o green button.

You may not be the only one who had issues.

[Moparnut72]

I play with old outboard motors. I was overhauling a magneto for a 50's something Mercury. When I took it apart I set a couple of the parts aside as they are pretty much ununobtainium. As I was reassembling it I tested the spark at the coil. All was good. After final assembly, no spark at the plugs. I took it apart two more times with the same result. On the fourth time I noticed the rotor at the back of the bench. It would light up the night with it in place.
kk

[Das]

Good to know others are prone to misadventure also.  The wisdom of hindsight is a wonderful thing.  In my case I have had cause to reflect on the error of my ways. 'Shortcuts' have an uncanny propensity of becoming the long way home. For the sake of trying to avoid the whole ten seconds it would of taken to remove the complete tank and do things in an orderly fashion I have brought on myself a good measure of expense, distress and delay. Live and learn!  I am very much looking forward to having the whole situation squared away and have the God of Motorcycling firmly back in his heaven.

[Das]

Got the replacement part this afternoon.  Very fortunately it happened to be in stock in Melbourne, Australia avoiding a two or three month delay while Luigi sent one out from Italy.  No quick release at the T on this one but apart from that it looks to be exactly what the doctor ordered.  I’m away for the next couple of days but should be able to get things back together shortly after.  Will post what I expect to be a happy conclusion to this little saga as soon as the Goose is breathing fire once more.😀

[Das]

The final word!  For the sake of completing the story and possibly light the way should others likewise stray. The original part is superseded by a fuel line assembly which is all one piece with no quick release at the T junction.  Fitting is a simple affair and all things went back together in fine fashion.  Da Goose is happily ready to ride.

[oldbike54]

 

 Dusty