Author Topic: LMI front brake  (Read 1176 times)

Offline rusty rotor

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LMI front brake
« on: September 30, 2021, 11:01:13 PM »
Making progress on a Brembo PS11 to F08 single disk system that's been a bitch to bleed.
Found a speedbleeder that seems to be working for me, stuck one on the caliper and another on the banjo.

Two concerns on the (per the OPP the correct Brembo) microswitch I've installed to replace the giant clunky unbleedable banjo switch.

The male spades are 2.75mm wide. Anyone know a better more correct name for them so I can buy some females?

The microswitch incorporates a small plastic cylinder or piston that runs through a hole in the lever pivot and conveys motion from the lever to the switch. This piston seems a hair too short and the brake light is staying on. Waggle the lever vertically and it cycles. There's only one way for the switch to go in, and there's no adjustability.

https://www.oppracing.com/image_display.php?image=55310&id=31041

So. Anyone run into this before? How did you correct this condition? I've reached out to OPP hoping the piston comes in sizes.


Offline Frenchfrog

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Re: LMI front brake
« Reply #1 on: October 01, 2021, 02:40:35 PM »
The micro switches are a pita ...I change them to a hydraulic switch.

Offline rusty rotor

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Re: LMI front brake
« Reply #2 on: October 05, 2021, 09:46:11 AM »
And I’m changing it out hoping to eliminate some amount of nooks and crannies making this system so hard to bleed.

I’ve improved it, and I have the brake light working correctly at least in the garage.

So again please. What is the correct female spade in this case?

What else may be making this system mushy?

It’s better, but i can still get the lever to the grip with modest effort. I did the Griso for practice and it was dead easy to do correctly.

Offline Stevex

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Re: LMI front brake
« Reply #3 on: October 05, 2021, 10:53:07 AM »
And I’m changing it out hoping to eliminate some amount of nooks and crannies making this system so hard to bleed.

I’ve improved it, and I have the brake light working correctly at least in the garage.

So again please. What is the correct female spade in this case?

What else may be making this system mushy?

It’s better, but i can still get the lever to the grip with modest effort. I did the Griso for practice and it was dead easy to do correctly.

What's the state of the mc?
Does it need a refurb kit fitting?

Offline rusty rotor

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Re: LMI front brake
« Reply #4 on: October 05, 2021, 11:28:08 AM »
MC is brand new. Braided lines are brand new. F08's are ... brand new.

How far to Market Weighton from yours?

Been there many times. Yorks rules.

Offline blackcat

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Re: LMI front brake
« Reply #5 on: October 05, 2021, 12:26:26 PM »
Not fun but have you bleed every joint starting at the lever or the foot brake? Hoisted the calipers above the MC's?  Zip tied the lever or foot brake overnight?
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Offline acguzzi

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Re: LMI front brake
« Reply #6 on: October 05, 2021, 01:07:53 PM »
I put a whole bottle of brake fluid through mine to make sure there are no air pockets. The other thought is maybe some thing on the disc is not true to the pad surface so they are pushing the pistons back when you release the brake. uneven pad wear, bent caliper mount, bent disc?

Offline moto-uno

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Re: LMI front brake
« Reply #7 on: October 05, 2021, 01:31:11 PM »
  In a pinch this trick has worked for me more than a few times .
  Pull the brake lever in a bit and let it snap back , do this numerous times .
  Removing the caliper cover before this will allow you to see if small bubbles start to appear .
  If so continue until they pretty much stop . Don't be afraid to give the lever a good tug after a
  a few flicks of the lever every now and then to see if it's improving. Since air
  in fluids tend to rise ( albeit slowly , this assists this method of bleeding).
Peter


Online moto

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Re: LMI front brake
« Reply #8 on: October 05, 2021, 09:02:21 PM »
Not fun but have you ... Hoisted the calipers above the MC's?  Zip tied the lever or foot brake overnight?

That works. Arrange things so that the air bubbles can rise. Zip tying the levers is also important, again with the reservoirs positioned so that air can rise up to them. I had to make wood brackets to arrange things properly, but after doing the work my integrated brakes on my T3 are as solid as rocks.
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