Norge or RT? and the winner...

[inditx]

Well this time around it’s an 08 RT with 23k on the clock.
Has the goodies and has been well kept.
The Mrs. is already missing the queens perch on the LT but boy howdy I couldn't maneuver that blue whale on our gravel drive and she was a heavy beast on mount and dismount. As Clint said, "A man’s got to know his limitations.”

RideOn!
inditx

[usedtobefast]

Nice looking bike!  What seat is on it?  Looks more comfy than the stock one. 

[Iron Cross Junction]

Well this time around it’s an 08 RT with 23k on the clock.
Has the goodies and has been well kept.
The Mrs. is already missing the queens perch on the LT but boy howdy I couldn't maneuver that blue whale on our gravel drive and she was a heavy beast on mount and dismount. As Clint said, "A man’s got to know his limitations.”

RideOn!
inditx

Sehr nett.

Clint and you are right.  Anyone can ride a 100 mph on a big motorcycle, but parking lots and garages, etc., on such machines can be daunting ... and worse.  BTDT.

Best wishes,

Bill

[JJ]

Well this time around it’s an 08 RT with 23k on the clock.
Has the goodies and has been well kept.
The Mrs. is already missing the queens perch on the LT but boy howdy I couldn't maneuver that blue whale on our gravel drive and she was a heavy beast on mount and dismount. As Clint said, "A man’s got to know his limitations.”

RideOn!
inditx

I have owned and ridden a few RT's in my time...they are fine motorcycles all around...

CONGRATULATIONS...

[inditx]

Nice looking bike!  What seat is on it?  Looks more comfy than the stock one.

It’s the stock heated seat, feels good so far.

[inditx]

I have owned and ridden a few RT's in my time...they are fine motorcycles all around...

CONGRATULATIONS...

Thanks JJ!

[inditx]

FWIW

Regular old Mobil-1 15W-50 from MaoMart at $23 a 5Q jug works a treat in these Hexheads. If you wait until spring Mobil will put out their $10 rebate limit two per household. That makes it $13 for 5Q. Pretty darn cheap.

HiFlo 164 oil filter (Amazon) are less the $9 eac if you buy three at a time.

1L of 75W-90 is enough to change both the the rear drive (180cc no more no less) and transmission (800cc). I use SuperTech full Synthetic for $8 a Liter.

Also a 8 ounce small animal water bottle with a metal spout is great for getting the new earl into the rear drive. Remove the BB from the spout make a line at 180cc and fill with earl to that mark then put on the spout, insert the spout into the fill opening and upright the bottle.

For topping up the engine earl a Blue DEF funnel trimming the end and cutting two slots in it to go over the valve cover bolt works a treat.

The oil fill hole if you do not have the tamper proof key simply place a flat blade of a screwdriver against the tan and give it a gentle whack with he palm of your hand to loosen/tighten the filler cap.

The brake master cylinder has two locking tabs on the cap. If you do not have the tool (most do not) a simple shoe string works just fine. Put the shoe string around the space between the reseveiour and cap and pinch the ends together. This will depress the locking tabs and you can then unscrew the cap.

The same shoe string also works at removing the coils sticks. Work the string around the wire and up against the the coils stick then gently pull outward to pull the coils stick off the spark plug. DO NOT use pliers or a screwdriver to try and pry the coil off you'll break the epoxy potting.

The same show string works at  holding the rear u-joint when hinging the rear drive up after cleaning and lubing the rear splines.

If Interested I can tank pics for you to reference.

Wow! Thanks PerraziMx14, I’d love me some photos of those DIY hacks.

[Huzo]

Here's a rear wheel adapter if you are the change you own tars and balance them type. With the big opening on the rear wheel you can buy a very expensive adapter to use with your inexpensive HF/Amazon or roll you own adapter for about $6.

2 - 2" x 3/4" PVC street reducers
1 - 2" FIP (female pipe adapter)
1 - 2" MIP (male pipe adapter)

Pink paint optional.

I’ll admit that what you have done there, will in all likelihood be just fine for your application.
It does rely on the assumption that the mounting face for the hub, is machined in the same process as the centre bore.
It probably is, but not necessarily.
Can you shoot a video of the wheel spinning on the balance rig ?
Is there a specific reason why the pink adapters are as long as pictured ?

[Huzo]

The bore of the wheel and the 2" IPS threads are a very close match. After the threads where the hex nut starts is a flat area that pushed against.  the machined face of the wheel. Really were not balancing tire for a F1 car that going well into the triple digits. For the commoner its just fine. In fact I have forgone even balancing my motorcycle tires several years ago and can tell no difference in fell or longevity of the tar.

The adapters are pink so I can easily see them in the somewhat dark basement. The the threaded adapter are DWV (drainage,waste & vent) and the reducers are pressure. I bought the DWV adapters over pressure PVC/CPVC adapters because of the cost difference. Either DWV or pressure fitting will work. The only difference in the two is the depth of the female cup on the glue side.

The 4th and 5th picture are the wheel sitting in the static balancer. If I remember I'll take pictures a little further back on another wheel I have

Yeah, well done.
A mate of mine was speculating as to whether he could do the same with his R1100S. As it turns out, the hub recess and the stud spacings are identical to the Norge, so the rig I made for that worked perfectly.
But that was more arse than class.

[inditx]

Thanks Perrazimx14!

[inditx]

Thanks sir!