Eccentric adjuster leak

[czakky82]

Getting closer to finishing my v7 sport. I’ve put around 100miles on and can’t get rid of the eccentric adjuster leak on the back of the transmission.
I can’t remember if there is supposed to be a crush washer there. There isn’t.

Is it time for permatex? What are the odds I could turn the adjuster in without disengaging the spring?

[Kiwi_Roy]

https://www.thisoldtractor.com/moto_guzzi_loopframe_transmission_-_pre-selector_shaft_rotation.html
I can't recall any sort of a seal on there, probably no more than a bit of goop.
Just a fraction of a turn at a time.
I think I may have broken the pawl spring on my Eldorado while trying to adjust it, I like to think it was ready to go.
You haven't overfilled it have you?

[czakky82]

Good question Roy. I originally filled to 750ml, had the leak, drained and filled to the level plug. Still leaking.

[pehayes]

Unlike the engine, there is no source of "pressure" in the transmission.  Not from pumping oil.  Not from pumping air.  Thus, the only way to push oil past the eccentric's threads is by simple gravity (and that isn't much of a pressure head).  Might there be a casting crack elsewhere nearby?  Don't turn the eccentric bolt.  You might be able to hold the bolt steady and loosen the locknut.  Insert some form of sealant interior to the locknut and lock it back down.  Consider dropping the transmission oil capacity by 50cc.  DO NOT use the level plug as a guide.  Drain completely and reinstall the drained lubricant.  Install 50cc less than specified.  If it still leaks, consider 100cc less.  If it still leaks tear it down.

Clean the leak area fastidiously.  Spray foot talcum powder around the offending area.  The leak source will show up in the white powder residue.  The bike will smell nice.

Patrick Hayes
Fremont CA

[moto-uno]

  There should be a vent hose some where near the neutral light , make sure it's not kinked or blocked . The churning of
the trans oil by the gears does cause some frothing and a slight pressure build up , hence , check the vent is clear , it's
probably the easiest to verify .  Peter

[czakky82]

Good stuff Patrick. Hopefully no cracks. The cases were all just vapor honed and in between running it sat for a while with a lubed transmission. I’ll drain and refill, again.

@Peter, Vent and hose are new, plumbed right and free/clear. Good thought. In fact the bike came with a tiny, like 1mm vent! I replaced that with a standard 5speed vent. Just for this reason.

[czakky82]

  Went for a quick spin after pulling out 65ml with a syringe. No active dripping….. from the trans. Who knew that the bottom bolt of a fork would leak?… anyway that’s a relatively easy fix. These freaking exhaust nuts though!

[lucky phil]

Went for a quick spin after pulling out 65ml with a syringe. No active dripping….. from the trans. Who knew that the bottom bolt of a fork would leak?… anyway that’s a relatively easy fix. These freaking exhaust nuts though!

Umm, everyone. A fork has got oil in it and when the fork compresses it creates internal air pressure. That's why most have a Dowty seal under the bolt head or at the least a crush washer.

Phil

[Tkelly]

When do we see the pictures?

[czakky82]

@Phil, just bein cheeky. Although I thought a fork leak would’ve shown much earlier.

@TK, I’ll finish jetting, mount the new pipes and take a few glamour shots. I’d like to paint the tins before summer is over but we’ll see.