NGC - My new vintage toy, and how best to preserve "patina"?

[brider]

I paid too much, but bought this rascal anyway because to me, I would like to be buried in it it's so beautiful  :









The wife was not a fan when I snuck it home. BIG "discussion"    However, I have the boys on my side!

Anyway, the paint is original, as is the Arizona patina. My storage facilities are NOT really worthy of this type of vehicle, and it is likely to be exposed to Connecticut weather (wetness, possibly some rain, etc).

Is there a method OTHER than typical exterior wax  prevent further oxidation? It looks to me like the PO did just that, waxed over paint and oxidation alike, and I'm fine with that as opposed to doing nothing and just adding a custom waterproof cover.

Thoughts? And no, it's not a Highboy, it's only 2WD. 360, 4 sp, 3:73 axle, radio delete panel in the dash, no PS or PB, supposedly a Phoenix municipal truck and the stepside longbed was only available as special-order. Came with the West Coast mirrors that I had to remove to get it into storage.

[Chatmanx]

If you are absolutely committed, then clearcoat. You could also wrap with Xpel or similar.

[PeteS]

If you are absolutely committed, then clearcoat. You could also wrap with Xpel or similar.

+1, use a flat clear coat.

Pete

[amamet]

https://www.facebook.com/maxlidermotors/photos/a.1235777996528847/4986644711442138/?type=3

Scroll to the early bronco, Matte clear over original patina

[s1120]

Check out Vice Grip Garage on YouTube. Fun videos, and he does quite a bit with old paint. Here is the fist vid of his I found in a quick search. Using this is good because its not permit. Reapply every 6 months or so, or not..  Sweet truck BTW!!!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HD7AvQZoYcU&t=419s

[brider]

Thanks, all, for the directions. I will investigate.

[reidy]

My opinion is don't clearcoat, once you clearcoat it looks fake and there is no going back. The VW guys use Ankor wax. I have heard of guys using Johnson floor wax. Any good car wax should be suitable. Wax will have to be reapplied. I have, and seen others clean a truck like yours with CLR before it is waxed. Google for videos. The thing is with patina in my opinion is it should be natural and look natural. Your new truck took about 50 years to look like that. If you keep it washed and waxed you should get a lot more years.

Steve

[Mayor_of_BBQ]

There is a product called Poppy's Patina... It is a wipe-on clearcoat. Give you the boiled linseed oil type look without them mess. More durable than wax, supposed to last a couple years but not a permanent clear coat.

I have not used it, but working on my beater truck, I am considering it

Give them a google

[Stretch]

I'd keep it clean, and wax the livin' daylights out of it.

That's an AWESOME truck! 

                                    -Stretch

[guzziart]

Nice truck!

[cliffrod]

I’m away from studio & don’t have a handy pic of my similar looking 73 Cheyenne.  Lots of missing paint and old stabilized rust like your truck.  I’ve had it since 98 when it was just a $350 old truck, well before the patina fad thing.   I do nothing to it and have never applied any sealer (makes it shiny), wax (cloudy on rust) no-touch tire shine (looks awesome to restore faded paint and can improve rust areas especially after linseed oil) Gibbs Oil (again, darker but better imho than poser-looking clear coat and excellent to convert & slow rust), etc.  NO significant progression of rust damage in those areas.  It’s never been parked inside since I’ve owned it here in the southeast.   It’s just my old daily driver truck that is now apparently cool.  The only thing that does it is time and that cannot be rushed or faked.  Your truck has great old & probably stabilized rust. I would not touch it or disturb it.

Active new rust- bright orange, easy to smudge or wipe- is what you don’t want.  Try to get it oiled, cleaned, rubbed off, whatever.  Naturally stabilized old rust- that darker rust like yours that doesn’t easily stain a wiped rag and can almost be rubbed to a shiny surface- isn’t as chemically inert as the tarnish on copper, but it won’t progress like active rust if you don’t disturb it.   Lots of this stabilized rust along top of bed sides- it’s largely indestructible in terms of a surface.  As long as I don’t sand or grind it off, it never changes.

My 67 Galaxie is missing paint along the tops of the front fenders and more deeply pitted than my Chevy truck.  I cannot justify the $$ for a full repaint so will probably leave it as is once it’s on the road.  No sealer, wax, clear coat, Gibbs, no-touch tire shine,  I’ll just be patient and enjoy it.  Glad you got a real truck with a long bed AND and FE.  If you’re into those engines or need guidance, www.FordFE.com is a great forum.  I’ve been on there for a decade or so.