convert advice

[newbedoo]

I am going to look at a 1976 v100 convert with 30,000 miles that has sat the last 2 years. Brakes and cylinders redone just before parked.
What sort of things should I be looking at in the way of problems? Are the cylinders chrome lined?

[JayDee24ca]

The cylinders are iron ones, not chrome.
Look for a functional clutch, check for stamped metal flywheel (look though the timing inspection plug; you want the heavy FW, not stamped tin), check the ATF tank for burned smelling ATF, ensure the bike moves under its own power in both high and low range (shift at a standstill).
JD

[John in PA]

There is no true neutral on  a 'Vert. The neutral light comes on when you pull the clutch lever.  Many Convert owners recommend substituting aircraft hydraulic fluid for ATF once she's yours for better performance. Also, the airbox is goofy. You can put on UNI'S or K&N' s, but need to install a T3 crankcase breather. Easy peasy, and a nice upgrade. Front suspension is pretty soft. FAC front dampers are a nice upgrade, and a few pounds of air can be added for extra preload.

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

If it's never had:
- fluid hoses replaced, it'll need those done.
- oil line to the heads replaced, it'll need that done.
- breather hoses replaced, it'll need those done.
- timing chain tensioner replaced, it'll need that done.
- if there's any ATF leaking from the transmission, that will need to be resealed.
- if it won't stay in High gear, then it'll likely need that gear and the sliding sleeve that engages it.
- if there's any leaks from the rear drive, that'll need to be resealed.
- original brake hoses replaced, it'll need those done.

Then there are the "consumables" - tires, battery, fork seals and dust wipers, u-joint boot, flasher holder and all of the other rubber bits that deteriorate.

I've just been through all of this and more myself. Started with an 18k miles, 76 Convert than ran two years ago. Four months later (working in my "spare" time) and (I'm afraid to add it up) more than a few $$ later, I have a nice Convert to ride.

My rebuild thread: http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=88354.0

I went from this:


to this:

[rodekyll]

Looking good, Charlie!   

What they said.  Popping out of gear is a symptom of shifting on the fly, and a lot of 'verts have been abused that way.  I know mine have.  The light flywheel is also a problem in that their hub section can spin up faster than the rest of the stamped plate.  This makes them come apart.  Luckily, most have already been changed out to the monsterously-heavy cast wheel.  It doesn't come apart, but it's not as 'sporty' as the light one was.  Making the cast wheel lighter can make the bike a lot of fun.  Oh -- by about sept of '76 the Conver was shipping with the heavy flywheel.

Check for foaming in the oil tank.  When you first start the bike, it should want to roll under power immediately.  Either/and/or excessive foaming/oil tank pressure and/or not feeling power at the wheels immediately can indicate atf pump or hose air leaks.  Not too difficult to cure, but requires a complete going-over of hoses, banjos and seals/O-rings.

I am closing in on 200k now with my '76 'vert, and I'd jump on it for a cross-continental run tomorrow without hesitation.  I recently put the torque converter from one behind a 1200 Breva engine in my transmissionless trike.  The Convert can be a real comfy mile muncher, and if the torque converter can push 1100# of trike without benefit of a gearbox, it will stand up to whatever you can load it with.

It will not wheelie.  I don't care what anyone says different.  So don't look for that.

[chuck peterson]

Look for dry...ness.

[Groover]

I think you already got the replies here from the most knowledgably people on Converts in the country, probably the world. You are in good hands.

[jkguzzi]

It's well worth the expense to do all of what Charlie outlined. I had a '73 Eldorado that was a great bike but my '81 Convert was more fun.

[fubar guzzi]

If you tow a trailer of any type convert is the only way to go

[fotoguzzi]

any California can easily tow a trailer.

[EV Cali]

upload images

The cylinders are iron ones, not chrome.
Look for a functional clutch, check for stamped metal flywheel (look though the timing inspection plug; you want the heavy FW, not stamped tin), check the ATF tank for burned smelling ATF, ensure the bike moves under its own power in both high and low range (shift at a standstill).
JD

Could someone please advise if the photo shows the type of flywheel to avoid?


image uploader

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

upload images

Could someone please advise if the photo shows the type of flywheel to avoid?


image uploader

Looks like the early, stamped "flywheel". Buy a heavy flywheel and put it on the shelf, then the stamped will never fracture. 

[fotoguzzi]

The light flywheel can be re enforced by brazing at the point where they normally crack. Then you can have the pep from the lightness and no worry about it failing. Get it balanced after the strengthening work. I got this idea from Guzziology.

[EV Cali]

The light flywheel can be re enforced by brazing at the point where they normally crack. Then you can have the pep from the lightness and no worry about it failing. Get it balanced after the strengthening work. I got this idea from Guzziology.

Thanks for the replies.
How big a job is it to get the flywheel out? Presume its an engine out job and not an easy task.

[fotoguzzi]

Search “crab the frame” you don’t have to take the engine out, you lift frame off the rear or roll the frame right off on the front wheel. Then pull transmission and your at the torq converter and flywheel.
Takes time but no special tools.

[chuck peterson]

Thanks for the replies.
How big a job is it to get the flywheel out? Presume its an engine out job and not an easy task.

$11-$45 on eBay

Moto Guzzi 750, 850, 1000 V-Twins Haynes Repair Shop Manual 1974-1978
Helps a lot, as does Guzziology

[Bulldog9]

Looks like the early, stamped "flywheel". Buy a heavy flywheel and put it on the shelf, then the stamped will never fracture. 

That is my plan 44K miles so far ;-)

[TOMB]

I may have posted this before but here goes'

My 76 Convert came with the earliest flywheel. Then changed to what I call the type 3 I mention below.

The 1st version-Stamped the version that usually comes apart.

Let's call the next version the type 2 that is heavier, and the starter ring is separate, and is considered a onetime fix.

The version on my Convert is HEAVY. 3rd type. The flywheel has the starter ring is directly machined into the flywheel as a one piece; this makes it very easy to center the torque converter on the flywheel, probably makes it smoother to, I'm just guessing.

Just some more info for your memory to retain.



guessing!

TOMB

[fotoguzzi]

TonB.. do you think the ring gear on gen 2 is the same ring gear from the earlier thin FW?
Just curious..
I have at least one nice ring gear excellent condition and a few gen 1 flywheels if anyone wants one.
Just sitting on a shelf taking up space for the past 12 or more years.



Came out of this gem,