2021 V85TT Battery Issue - Need help and Advice

[MurphyPeoples]

Happy holidays to all. After a long stint with poor health I am now strong enough to get back on my goose and ride. I have not been able to ride since March of this year. Unfortunately I did not leave the bike on a trickle charger so when I pulled it out to clean up the battery was dead. I hooked her up to a trickle charger overnight, and started her yesterday morning. She ran a little rough but then cleared up and ran very smoothly as I pulled her around the house and into the driveway. After shooting her off I went inside to armor up, and when I return to the bank to try to start her she would only turn over 1/4 rotation of the engine. I put her back on the trickle charger for a couple of hours and she once again started right up. But I don't trust her battery now to take her out on the road. So I have a few questions for the group; can I perform a load test on the battery while it's still connected into the bike without causing issues to the ECM or Code? If I need a new battery can I replace it myself without the bike having to go to the dealership for some kind of code reset to the ECM? Any and all advice you can give me would be greatly appreciated I would like to get her running between Christmas and New Year's so I can take her out on the road. Thank you in advance!
Murphy Peoples
Clinton SC

[Huzo]

Just buy the new battery and throw it it. Reset the clock and go.
If you are having a new one un boxed and filled with acid, let the acid sit in the battery for a couple of hours before the initial charge of 3 hours.
Yuasa batteries are something I have never had a problem with.

[blackcat]

I invested in a load charger to verify a bad or weak battery. Or you can put a meter on the battery and check the voltage when hitting the starter button and if it dips way below 12.5 volts it's probably on the way out.

[Vagrant]

First at least see if the terminals are tight. Then remove and clean. Clean ground on block too.

[MurphyPeoples]

I invested in a load charger to verify a bad or weak battery. Or you can put a meter on the battery and check the voltage when hitting the starter button and if it dips way below 12.5 volts it's probably on the way out.

I started her this am - she did fine. Then I did a quick load test. She dropped from 12v to 10v and all the way down to the lowest part of the Load scale of 440cca. She's definitely finito.
Going to order a new one now. I'm going to run leads between the new battery and connections as I remove the old battery in order to avoid any "maintenance codes" that might populate do to a battery change.

Thanks all for replying!
Murphy

[Shiny Hat]

You already crossed that bridge when the battery went dead and then tried to start when the battery was low as far as codes, what’s set is set. They’re not emission codes so a CEL should not come on.
I would suggest not doing the jumper leads to the new battery, just replace it. Your advice for this has been given, replace the battery, set the clock and ride.
Not sure of the specs given but below 12.5 does not indicate a bad battery unless you’re a battery salesman.

Since you’re there do a quick check of the charging voltage, need to see 13.9 to fully charge lead/acid. If it’s below, subtract 1.2 from the reading and that will be the max you can charge the battery.

You got this, don’t over think.

[Huzo]

You already crossed that bridge when the battery went dead and then tried to start when the battery was low as far as codes, what’s set is set. They’re not emission codes so a CEL should not come on.
I would suggest not doing the jumper leads to the new battery, just replace it. Your advice for this has been given, replace the battery, set the clock and ride.
Not sure of the specs given but below 12.5 does not indicate a bad battery unless you’re a battery salesman.

Since you’re there do a quick check of the charging voltage, need to see 13.9 to fully charge lead/acid. If it’s below, subtract 1.2 from the reading and that will be the max you can charge the battery.

You got this, don’t over think.

Believe the man with the hat…

[MurphyPeoples]

You already crossed that bridge when the battery went dead and then tried to start when the battery was low as far as codes, what’s set is set. They’re not emission codes so a CEL should not come on.
I would suggest not doing the jumper leads to the new battery, just replace it. Your advice for this has been given, replace the battery, set the clock and ride.
Not sure of the specs given but below 12.5 does not indicate a bad battery unless you’re a battery salesman.

Since you’re there do a quick check of the charging voltage, need to see 13.9 to fully charge lead/acid. If it’s below, subtract 1.2 from the reading and that will be the max you can charge the battery.

You got this, don’t over think.

Thanks sir! The clock has never gone dead, and she "tried" to turn over just a bit - so I'm not sure if she's thrown out any permanent alert codes. I'll do as you say and just replace the old brick. 
I've a nice one coming in on Thursday of this week, so hopefully I can take advantage of the weekend sunshine that is supposed to come our way. BTW the 12.5 was just at rest with no load. Soon as I put a load on her she dropped to near nothing.