After two years of an on and off problem I diagnosed the Griso's shuddering and surging as a failing fuel pump.
Mark Bayley supplied the hint that what I thought was an electrical/spark issue was in reality a lack of fuel.
Off with the tank and in with a new pump from the mysterious East.

After some cautious test rides I deemed the problem solved and ventured into the countryside.
I paused to frame a suitably scenic vista to irritate my friends on Facebook when a blip of the throttle caused the oil light to flash.
I had planned to change the problematic black gasket at 10K miles but now it was critical. New green gaskets from MG Cycle were procured.
This is what the engine-destroying bad gasket looks like.

If you have a 4 valve Griso, Stelvio or Sport, take it to be serviced or do it yourself. The engine you save might be your own!