Spline lube

[faffi]

My clutch lever sometimes hang up a little when I go to release the final 1/2 in (at the outer end of the lever) - it is like is is hesitant to go home fully. So I wonder, could it be the clutch splines? Bike has 8000 miles on it, Roamer V9.

I also wonder how often people lube the splines on their bikes in general.

[Dirk_S]

Sounds like maybe a throwout bearing failure (I’ve only seen those symptoms shared on YouTube videos from time to time, but that matched their pedal feel), but I’m curious—before you decide to jump into that type of job, how everything is before that, all the way to the lever? Is the lever at the handlebar properly centered? I know one time I must’ve lost that pivot bushing and did t realize it until many miles later. Was able to find a spacer/bushing in a friend’s garage that perfectly fit. And assuming your cable is well-routed?

[Tom H]

As mentioned, check the cable routing. Could be too tight a bend at the lever, Also make sure the lever is moving freely, you may need to undo the cable at the lever to check this. Has the cable been lubed recently? Also check the lever on the back of the trans that the cable connects to. With cable removed, does it move freely until it hits the clutch outer body (throw out bearing outer body)?

Check these things and let us know.

One last thing. Your poll. I'm not a fan of lubing the clutch splines. I lube the wheel hub splines whenever I have the wheel off. The driveshaft, trans and rear drive splines only when I'm in there for other things. Wurth grease at MG Cycle works fine.

Tom

[faffi]

The clutch will engage normally, so the sticking point is just after engagement. It may be that the clutch would slip if I gave it a handful of throttle - never tried, never occurred to me before now - meaning it may not be 100% engage, but it is not slipping in the situation. But then the lever kinda want to sit there, ever so slightly pulled in, then suddenly release fully. At first, I wondered if it was just my gloves sticking to the lever, preventing it getting all the way out, but it is the same regardless of what gloves I wear. And I have never had the same thing happen on any of the bikes I have ridden over the past 44 years.

The cable is routed as is should from what I can tell, but I am unsure if I should lube it - the manual say that is should not be lubed IIRC. I have lubed the ferrules at both ends, but thank you for tip of disengaging it and check that it slide freely, and also that the release arm feels smooth until engagement.

The clutch lever and its holder are stock, lubed, free from any slack and moves with little effort when pulling the clutch.

[Tom H]

If the manual says not to lube the cable, then it's likely teflon or the like lined. No lube needed. My BMW cables are the same way. If you have the cable off the hand lever for some reason, just give the inner cable a push/pull to see if it moves freely.

If you have the rubber boot that covers the cable adjuster at the hand lever, make sure it's allowing the lever to move freely.

When I mentioned the lever on the trans. Sometimes the pivot pin can get gunked up /frozen. That's why I suggested to check it as well. And while your looking down there, make sure the spring under the lever is in correctly and not cocked at some weird angle and on the side of the lever instead of behind it..
Tom

[faffi]

Thanks, will do. Nobody has wrenched on this bike (other than basic service) so I would be surprised to find any errors, but it could potentially be an error from new. Also, the PO spent most of his time with the bike washing it, so perhaps water have caused some hidden corrosion. I know my (now son's) MT-07 also had a washing-mad owner, and every bolt I have pulled have been crazy corroded where they went through the frame.

[Dirk_S]

Related—can clutch pushrods be lubricated by squirting grease into the shaft? Or do you have to open up the bell housing?

[Tom H]

AFAIK, they are dry. Except many will lube the end that goes into the cup /plate in the pressure plate. The other end under the throw out bearing is lubed by the gear oil in the trans.

Tom

[John A]

The cable is routed as is should from what I can tell, but I am unsure if I should lube it - the manual say that is should not be lubed IIRC. I have lubed the ferrules at both ends, but thank you for tip of disengaging it and check that it slide freely, and also that the release arm feels smooth until engagement.

The clutch lever and its holder are stock, lubed, free from any slack and moves with little effort when pulling the clutch.

The lever is sposed to have slack or it puts pressure on the assembly when it’s not being used and can wear parts prematurely. A couple mm’s is enough.

[faffi]

Yes, it has slack, but there is naturally still a slight tension from the return spring that keeps the lever full out - it just takes very little effort to move the lever back a few mm.

[guzziart]

Yeah, a six year old bike with only 8k miles could be just about anything mentioned.  Maybe that Tracer 9GT you mentioned in another thread is looking better and better.

[faffi]

Yeah, a six year old bike with only 8k miles could be just about anything mentioned.  Maybe that Tracer 9GT you mentioned in another thread is looking better and better.

 

Functionally, the Tracer sits miles above the V9. Pity it is so boring. And complex. But if I did a 50 mile highway commute to work every day, I would have gone for the Yamaha. Luckily, I only ride for pleasure, and the Roamer is much more pleasing to own and ride for that purpose.