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So in my opinion, all else being equal, skinnier is better, and all else being equal, there is no functional advantage to different size tires front and rear.
There can be a difference in handling by using a narrower tire up front, but it can depend on the bike too.
Run higher cold air pressure in the tires. Sounds like the sidewalls were flexing too much.
Dave, I'll answer the OP backwards -- You can fit some 130s back there (depending on brand and model tire), so a 120 isn't going to rub on anything. If you get a 130 that rubs on the swing arm, it's easy and functionally unnoticeable to add a 5mm shim on the axle to space the tire away. So can you go bigger? yes.Would I recommend tires larger than oem spec? Not any more. I used to run the fattest rubber I could spoon on the rims because I thought fat tires looked cool, gave more contact patch, and helped stability in the curves. I was wrong on all counts and the tradeoff was slower transitions from bank to bank going through the twisties, a feeling of 'oversteer' as the front tire began turning before the back tire was locked and loaded, and more of a 'snatchy' feeling rolling the throttle on and off. Altogether a poor tradeoff.Can you go skinnier? On my short wheelbase Tonti I'm running 100/90 and 100/90. I'll do a 110 on the rear if I have to. I run really heavy when I'm x-country travelling and have had no issues with the load range of "skinny" tires. In fact, on my trike (1550# loaded) I'm running 4.00" (~100) x18 on the front and 4.25" (~110) x19 on the back. These take huge sideloads as well as the straight weight of the machine without any adverse behavior, and 6k into ownership they look like they'll be good for at least 10k-miles.So in my opinion, all else being equal, skinnier is better, and all else being equal, there is no functional advantage to different size tires front and rear.[/quoteThe tire could rub inside the rear fender, hit tail light wire, or mountin screws at 130.