Warning Will Robinson, Warning, stay back!

[Gliderjohn]

The anti-seize is coming out. Finishing up the oil change on the T-3 this afternoon. With all those pan bolts that crap will get everywhere. It's like a spitting cobra.
GliderJohn

[JJ]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OWwOJlOI1nU 

[Gliderjohn]

I did it, I did it! Didn't make an undue mess with the evil anti-seize. Weird though, I put the shorter bolts in first but then the four long bolts wouldn't start. Took all the short bolts back out dropped the pan again but couldn't find any issue so put pan back on with just four short bolts and the long ones then went in fine. Only Guzzi could make an oil change take a full day.
GliderJohn

[ridingron]

I swore if I ever got one of those "drop the pan" oil change bikes, I'd replace the screws with studs. I'd much rather deal with removing a "screwed up threads" stud than figuring how to fix screwed up threads on the block.

Or better yet an Outsider!

[Perazzimx14]

The anti-seize is coming out. Finishing up the oil change on the T-3 this afternoon. With all those pan bolts that crap will get everywhere. It's like a spitting cobra.
GliderJohn

As a young apprentice working with Paul Crebs I was told "kid......you know they only ever made one drop of anitseize, it just got everwhere" Paul wasn't lying. Black Swan bell and spogot pipe lube/glue was another that all you had to do was look a the can from across the room and you jeans and boots were covered in it.

[Moparnut72]

Yeah, why does anti seize come in such large tubes? I have had one tube for many years and it hardly looks used.
kk

[n3303j]

The anti-seize is coming out. Finishing up the oil change on the T-3 this afternoon. With all those pan bolts that crap will get everywhere. It's like a spitting cobra.
GliderJohn

Wondering why you mention oil pan and anti-seize compound in the same paragraph. There is enough oil and gasketry around those screws that they could never bind up even if you stored the bike under water. Save the messy stuff for exhaust studs and components and remember it changes your torque specifications over 20%.

Meanwhile, install all the oil pan screws about a turn loose. At that point you will find that the pan will actually wiggle in place a bit. That way all the screws will easily line up with their holes. Then snug up the pan in a proper tightening pattern. I finish the job with a torque wrench to be sure they are all even.

General procedure with any single piece with multiple screws. Get them all in loosely first. Then bring them to torque later. Oil pans, transmission covers, rocker covers, body panels etc. Makes life easier in the long run. Im also a fan of running in all threaded components finger pressure only. Then finish with the appropriate wrench. Can't  cross thread anything using finger pressure only.

[Muzz]

Ya done good John!

[twowings]

Fustrating job but feels so good when you stop   

Going to Paonia this year?

[n3303j]

What's frustrating about it?
You get to lay down through most of the procedure.
You get to peek into the engine bottom end and see how it's going.
You can do the job on "lizard brain" and let the conscious appreciate the whole machine from a different point of view.
You can concentrate on your background music.

I have a smooth, level and dry floor.
I have a parts washer to clean the pan and screws.
I have a compressor sufficient to dry all the washed parts.
Without all those things it would be far less fun.

[bmc5733946]

I find this form of anti-seize much less messy and use it when I can. Available many places. I get it from my bolt and screw store. They also offer copper and several other anti-seize and also thread locking products in stick form. I like them for their easy application and less waste factors. 

https://next.henkel-adhesives.com/us/en/products/industrial-lubricants/central-pdp.html/loctite-lb-8060/BP000000153551.html

Brian

[SmithSwede]

I wonder if they used anti-seize on the Robot.  Anyway, I'm sure Dr. Smith was up to no good.  I never did trust that guy . . .