2009 V7 Classic – right cylinder knocking / lower compression

[xorti]

Hi all,

Looking for some advice before I pull the right head.

Bike: 2009 V7 Classic (EFI).

Symptoms

Started with:

• stalling when cold
• loss of power at higher revs
• one knock on first start, which then disappeared

Later developed a persistent metallic ticking/knocking from the right cylinder, strongest around the exhaust side.
Noise increases with RPM, slightly quieter when warm but never fully disappears.

Work already done

• Oil + filter change
• Valves adjusted multiple times (currently 0.10 intake / 0.14–0.20 exhaust)
• Updated timing chain tensioner installed
• Pushrods checked (straight)
• Rockers inspected – no abnormal wear or play
• Head nuts torqued 42 Nm (M10 studs)
• Exhaust gasket replaced
• Injectors swapped L ↔ R → no change

Endoscope inspection showed normal carbon and no piston damage, walls has crosscheck marks, no scoring .

Timing check

I also checked cam timing roughly by setting valve clearance to about 1 mm and rotating the engine to observe valve events.
The method wasn’t extremely precise, but left cylinder TDC aligns with the marks on the crank and nothing appeared obviously out of phase.

Other observations

• With exhaust removed I saw some oil mist near the exhaust valve stem on the right side
• Interestingly the left cylinder had more oil residue overall

Compression test

Cold engine, throttle open:

• Right cylinder: 9.6 bar
• Left cylinder: 11 bar

Other notes

• GuzziDiag previously showed right ignition coil error
• Plug-cap pull test: both cylinders contribute, though right seems weaker

Question

Given the persistent right-side noise + lower compression, does this point toward an exhaust valve / seat sealing issue on the right cylinder?

Before pulling the head, would you recommend:

• leak-down test? I do not have tools
• anything else to check first
• How common valve issues on 13k bike

So my guess is

• loose valve is rocking in the guide and making noice
• knocking when hitting the valve seat
• when the valve doesn’t seal perfectly, combustion gases leak past it and can create a sharp ticking sound that mimics mechanical noise
• timing jumped one teeth but still all two marks align

I’ll add a video of the noise.

Thanks for any input.
https://youtube.com/shorts/vqh4stjlxp4?feature=share
https://youtu.be/CKkUQIhDwXk
https://youtu.be/dsWYpI2tt-E










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[Dirk_S]

You come across as knowledgeable enough about engine mechanics, but just to get it out of the way—you’re certain that you’re doing your valve lash adjustments at TDC-compression stroke for THAT particular cylinder?

Are both coils reading fine now?

[guzzisteve]

Get a leak down test performed, a shop won't charge much. Best to know where compression loss is going. May give you a clue to where noise is coming from. You could also put together an air hose fitting to a tool inserted in spark plug hole & listen to where air is coming from. Lock motor at TDC or take rockers out & test at BDC so motor doesn't turn.