2009 V7 Classic – right cylinder knocking / lower compression

[xorti]

Hi all,

Looking for some advice before I pull the right head.

Bike: 2009 V7 Classic (EFI).

Symptoms

Started with:

• stalling when cold
• loss of power at higher revs
• one knock on first start, which then disappeared

Later developed a persistent metallic ticking/knocking from the right cylinder, strongest around the exhaust side.
Noise increases with RPM, slightly quieter when warm but never fully disappears.

Work already done

• Oil + filter change
• Valves adjusted multiple times (currently 0.10 intake / 0.14–0.20 exhaust)
• Updated timing chain tensioner installed
• Pushrods checked (straight)
• Rockers inspected – no abnormal wear or play
• Head nuts torqued 42 Nm (M10 studs)
• Exhaust gasket replaced
• Injectors swapped L ↔ R → no change

Endoscope inspection showed normal carbon and no piston damage, walls has crosscheck marks, no scoring .

Timing check

I also checked cam timing roughly by setting valve clearance to about 1 mm and rotating the engine to observe valve events.
The method wasn’t extremely precise, but left cylinder TDC aligns with the marks on the crank and nothing appeared obviously out of phase.

Other observations

• With exhaust removed I saw some oil mist near the exhaust valve stem on the right side
• Interestingly the left cylinder had more oil residue overall

Compression test

Cold engine, throttle open:

• Right cylinder: 9.6 bar
• Left cylinder: 11 bar

Other notes

• GuzziDiag previously showed right ignition coil error
• Plug-cap pull test: both cylinders contribute, though right seems weaker

Question

Given the persistent right-side noise + lower compression, does this point toward an exhaust valve / seat sealing issue on the right cylinder?

Before pulling the head, would you recommend:

• leak-down test? I do not have tools
• anything else to check first
• How common valve issues on 13k bike

So my guess is

• loose valve is rocking in the guide and making noice
• knocking when hitting the valve seat
• when the valve doesn’t seal perfectly, combustion gases leak past it and can create a sharp ticking sound that mimics mechanical noise
• timing jumped one teeth but still all two marks align

I’ll add a video of the noise.

Thanks for any input.
https://youtube.com/shorts/vqh4stjlxp4

https://youtu.be/CKkUQIhDwXk
https://youtu.be/dsWYpI2tt-E










[/list]

[Dirk_S]

You come across as knowledgeable enough about engine mechanics, but just to get it out of the way—you’re certain that you’re doing your valve lash adjustments at TDC-compression stroke for THAT particular cylinder?

Are both coils reading fine now?

[guzzisteve]

Get a leak down test performed, a shop won't charge much. Best to know where compression loss is going. May give you a clue to where noise is coming from. You could also put together an air hose fitting to a tool inserted in spark plug hole & listen to where air is coming from. Lock motor at TDC or take rockers out & test at BDC so motor doesn't turn.

[malik]

I would do the tappets again (0.10 & 0.15) followed by a throttle body balance (I use guzzidiag & a throttle lock to control the rpm at about 3,000rpm). This seems to even out all sorts of things, including reducing fuel consumption.

Also note that I had a persistent knock on one side - turned out to be failed spot welds fixing the inner header pipe to the outer. Mine failed at the muffler end, and the inner pipe would knock against the outer - couldn't positively identify the knocking source at the time. My local guzzi mechanic's usual fix was to drill a hole or 2 through the outer sleeve & do another spot weld. My solution was to replace the original header pipes with a set from Agostini - these are single walled & fatter. This eliminated the knock as well as seemingly allowing the engine to breathe freer. Just my suspicion. 230,000km now on the V7C, with no engine work, other than the tappets, done on the bike.

[xorti]

I would do the tappets again (0.10 & 0.15) followed by a throttle body balance (I use guzzidiag & a throttle lock to control the rpm at about 3,000rpm). This seems to even out all sorts of things, including reducing fuel consumption.

Also note that I had a persistent knock on one side - turned out to be failed spot welds fixing the inner header pipe to the outer. Mine failed at the muffler end, and the inner pipe would knock against the outer - couldn't positively identify the knocking source at the time. My local guzzi mechanic's usual fix was to drill a hole or 2 through the outer sleeve & do another spot weld. My solution was to replace the original header pipes with a set from Agostini - these are single walled & fatter. This eliminated the knock as well as seemingly allowing the engine to breathe freer. Just my suspicion. 230,000km now on the V7C, with no engine work, other than the tappets, done on the bike.

I did suspect the exhaust making noise and therefore changed the exhaust gasket, I will have another look

You come across as knowledgeable enough about engine mechanics, but just to get it out of the way—you’re certain that you’re doing your valve lash adjustments at TDC-compression stroke for THAT particular cylinder?

Are both coils reading fine now?

I would like to think I did, the one that had both valve closed, it is after intake valve closes

[Dirk_S]

I would like to think I did, the one that had both valve closed, it is after intake valve closes

Right. And each cylinder has its own TDC.; ie., you set TDC on the compression stroke (after intake valve closes) for one cylinder and check valve lash, then you set the TDC for the other cylinder and check its valve lash.