Anyone use the POR-15 system to paint their bike frames?

[NCAmother]

Looking at options for a rugged, lasting paint job on my project.  At the moment I'm ruling out powder coating.  I was thinking about the POR-15 system with there 2k Urethane.  KBS systems has a kit also, but I haven't heard reviews of them.  I might even consider implement enamel.
Anyone have experience, suggestions, etc.?  Would be greatly appreciated,
NCA

[Kiwi_Roy]

Yes I painted the frame of my Eldorado with a brush, it looks pretty crappy at first, lots of brush-marks but they disappear to leave a better than rattlecan finish. I am very pleased with the results.
Mine was a one part paint.

Try not to get it on your hands though 

[NCAmother]

Thanks Roy, is the paint holding up?

[John A]

I painted portions of my sidecar frame with it as well as some tractor implements I made. Holds up very well and would be a good option for frame paint. Flows out nice so if you are a halfway decent brush painter it won't show brush marks. Clean the can lip throughly or you will never get the lid off again. Stir it, do not shake it or it forms bubbles that stay in the paint. Tough paint

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

I did an Eldo frame five years ago with POR-15 Chassis Black (now called Top Coat). Holding up very well so far. A few tips: Use disposable foam brushes, no brush marks once it flows out. Don't "dip" right out of the can, pour some of the paint into another container to use out of.

I painted my mailbox four years with the same stuff in aerosol form. It's holding up well despite being exposed to the elements 24/7/365. 

[NCAmother]

I was thinking of gun spraying it, but it sounds like a foam brush works as good and would save me some time. (and the overspray would be a b/tch to get out).   Antietam, did you use the Top Coat direct to metal or did you use POR 15 and then Top Coat?  Thanks again fellas

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

I was thinking of gun spraying it, but it sounds like a foam brush works as good and would save me some time. (and the overspray would be a b/tch to get out).   Antietam, did you use the Top Coat direct to metal or did you use POR 15 and then Top Coat?  Thanks again fellas

I didn't apply POR-15 Rust Preventive Coating first, just brushed on the POR-15 Chassis Black right over the original paint and bare metal where I had removed rust.

http://www.por15.com/POR-15-Top-Coat_p_102.html

Another thing: I buy it on Amazon instead of directly from POR-15. Doing this saves a few $$ since shipping is free on Amazon as long as your order is over $49 and shipping from POR-15 is pretty expensive.

[NCAmother]

I didn't apply POR-15 Rust Preventive Coating first, just brushed on the POR-15 Chassis Black right over the original paint and bare metal where I had removed rust.

http://www.por15.com/POR-15-Top-Coat_p_102.html

Another thing: I buy it on Amazon instead of directly from POR-15. Doing this saves a few $$ since shipping is free on Amazon as long as your order is over $49 and shipping from POR-15 is pretty expensive.

Thanks!!

[Kiwi_Roy]

I just used the Por15 rust preventer, no top coat. It dried with a real high gloss.

It took over two weeks to get it off my hands, nothing would remove it, I think the skin grew it out.
A foam brush sounds like the way to go, I just threw it away.

[SED]

13 years ago I painted girder front forks, a fender and some smaller parts with POR-15 black.  I believe it was chassis black and a top coat was recommended.  The chassis black was dark black and glossy while the top coat was slightly gray so I never top coated it.

The POR-15 dries slowly and the brush strokes flow out well.  It dries glossy and very black compared to most spray cans and rustoleum brush paint.  It adheres well to sanded and sandblasted parts.  It seems slightly flexible so is tough and does not chip easily.

However, it very shortly started to haze over, presumably due to UV light and was particulary obvious on the tops of the fenders.  Waxing and polishing would bring back the shiny black but over time the paint seemed to either thin or lose its pigment - high spots under the steel began to show through the paint almost as if the paint had become clear. 

I had the fenders powdercoated when I redid them and will eventually have the fork powdercoated or painted with epoxy paint.  Epoxy paint is blacker than powdercoat and nearly as tough. YMMV

[Kiwi_Roy]

However, it very shortly started to haze over, presumably due to UV light and was particulary obvious on the tops of the fenders.  Waxing and polishing would bring back the shiny black but over time the paint seemed to either thin or lose its pigment - high spots under the steel began to show through the paint almost as if the paint had become clear. 
 

I think this may be the case, my bike spends most of it's life in an underground garage so it's not an issue.
The paint goes a long way, a cup size tin is all you should need to do a frame.

[NCAmother]

13 years ago I painted girder front forks, a fender and some smaller parts with POR-15 black.  I believe it was chassis black and a top coat was recommended.  The chassis black was dark black and glossy while the top coat was slightly gray so I never top coated it.

The POR-15 dries slowly and the brush strokes flow out well.  It dries glossy and very black compared to most spray cans and rustoleum brush paint.  It adheres well to sanded and sandblasted parts.  It seems slightly flexible so is tough and does not chip easily.

However, it very shortly started to haze over, presumably due to UV light and was particulary obvious on the tops of the fenders.  Waxing and polishing would bring back the shiny black but over time the paint seemed to either thin or lose its pigment - high spots under the steel began to show through the paint almost as if the paint had become clear. 

I had the fenders powdercoated when I redid them and will eventually have the fork powdercoated or painted with epoxy paint.  Epoxy paint is blacker than powdercoat and nearly as tough. YMMV

SED, is there  2k epoxy or is it only sold in aerosol guns?  Haven't had much luck with PJ1 epoxy in the past

[SED]

SED, is there  2k epoxy or is it only sold in aerosol guns?  Haven't had much luck with PJ1 epoxy in the past

The epoxy paint is the 2 part PPG product used for cars.  My brother paints it with a spray gun.  Apparently you can get the same paint put in aerosol cans at the paint store, but not sure it has the hardener.  If there is no hardener, it will dry, but is not as tough.