Daytona RS/Centauro/Sport 1100i Phonic Wheel Air Gap

[Old Jock]

So before I start to button up the RS engine timing case, after installing Joe Caruso's pump & gear mod, I got advice to check the Phonic wheel Air Gap.

The original gap recommended gap was 0.6-1.2mm

Service bulletin #99429 tightened this up to between 0.7-0.9mm

I just measured mine and the air gap is somewhere between 0.559 & 0.584mm probably closer to the former than the latter.

On advice from a friend familiar with the Centauro, he thought it may be a good idea to seek out advice from the old heads who know these engines well to determine if it's worth altering it or not and if so to what aim for as a setting gap.

The bike hasn't been fired since being in my possession as I wanted to put in Joe's pump & gear mod and Roper plate before running it this summer, so the "did it run well before then just leave it" argument does not hold water.

I'd love advice from Paul Daytona, Pete et al who have a lot of experience, but any comments are welcome

Oh finally those familiar with the Centauro forum, would it be beneficial to join and post up there?

John

[Chuck in Indiana]

The COG used to be *the* place for 4V info. I haven't looked in for many years, though, so can't say what it's like, now.
I'll bet the air gap isn't that critical. I screwed up one time and had mine way too close, and it still ran ok. If it were me, I'd just go with the Service Bulletin.

[guzzisteve]

+1 on what Chuck said, go w/service bul. That is what they are for plus the make enough variety to get it right on shims.

[Old Jock]

Ok Thanks for the replies

I'll see if I have another neutral switch gasket, which the bulletin states as giving you approximately 0.2mm when compressed, that would bring it within spec

Need to mention this when doing my write up on the pump gear replacement thread

John