LM3 - time for new brake lines.

[Vince in Milwaukee]

After about 25 years of ownership, I feel it's about time for new lines as the one on the front left is cracked where it goes into the caliper.  Part of me wants to up date to the braided steel ones for better stopping power while the other says leave it stock with copies as I don't ride the bike that hard anyways.  Thoughts please.  

[Dimples]

Order the braided stainless Spiegler kit with black PVC exterior and silver fittings from Harpers (or other). It will look close to stock.

[pete mcgee]

What he said.
The improvement in braking is worth it.

[ccoli]

Or go to the local Circle track racing store and get universal ones that you buy by the length and get the end fittings as required. I get mine at Behlings Racing in Butler.

[Dimples]

For a more dramatic improvement in stopping power also order a pair of EBC sintered pads for the right caliper (or both/all). This is controversial in certain situations due to more disc wear. But since you don't put high miles on the LM III it shouldn't be an issue. With new braided lines AND sintered pads the brakes will be very much improved when you use them!

Take it a step further and rebuild the calipers and master cylinders when replacing the lines and switch to DOT 5 fluid. You'll never worry about it again.

D

[Chuck in Indiana]

Earls in Gasoline alley will make you new stainless ones at about 20 bux apiece.  (Guzzi content) Good stuff, cheap.
The usual disclaimers.

[Dimples]

Assuming your system is still linked, this is the look with black lines and silver fittings. If you've never specified brake lines, the LM 3 specific Spiegler kit is the easiest route to a clean installation (oh, you'll pay). All the washers are included too. Another installation advantage is that all the fittings can be swiveled to the necessary angle.

[earemike]

My LM1 has old earls braided lines with the black exterior & the vehicle inspector did not notice they were braided.

[Orange Guzzi]

Goodridge has a good selection also.  I have use these parts many time.  Mostly because they are available at the local parts supplier.

[guzzibob]

Completely disagree with what some others have said, specifically:

1)Changed out the cracked and decades old rubber hoses on my T3 for stainless. Looked cool, but couldn't tell the difference in the braking. If you like the look, by all means go ahead. I doubt you will find a dramatic performance difference compared to new rubber hoses.
2)I am assuming here that your LM III has stock cast iron rotors. I tried EBC sintered pads on my T3 hand brake, and also on my 1000S. There is a reason EBC specifically recommends against using these pads on cast iron rotors. Initially great results, noticeably stronger braking. However on my T3, warped the disc, which I replaced, then warped the replacement disc. Never ever warped a rotor on well over 100k miles with organic pads. On the 1000S, locked up the brakes while moving, brought me to a stop. Happened twice. Could have been a real hazzard, but I was lucky. Never happened before or since with the organic pads, which I went back to on the S. For the T3 found EBC full floating stainless disc now available from MG Cycle, no problems since, they are meant to be used with EBC sintered pads and that combo works really well. Looks like MG Cycle may have stainless rotors for your LM III that would enable you to use the sintered pads without potential problems. Or if you are still using Brembo organic pads, switch to Ferodo Platinum organic pads for improvement-though not as good as the stainless/sintered combo, but a lot cheaper. To summarize, you ignore what EBC suggests for their own sintered pads at your own risk.
3)DOT-5. No, don't do it. To quote Guzziology, "In spite of the claims DOT 5 should never be used in your Guzzi because Brembo brakes are no compatible with silicone based fluid." There really is no reason to change from Dot 3 or 4 to take the risk of using Dot 5.

[ed.bremner]

Yup, my experience similar to guzzibob...

Replacing very old and original rubber hoses with stainless Goodridge pipes looked great, but I can't say I noticed any difference in braking at all.

On original iron rotors, I run Ferodo pads and they seem better than the Brembos.  They do seem to take quite a while to bed in, but this is just a feeling, not sure if its true.

My understanding has always been to avoid DOT5 on pretty much all old classic vehicles, but certainly wouldn't use with Brembos, where the seals seem to stretch/deform/swell quicker than I would expect.  DOT 4 and regular changes seem to be best advice.

eib

[Dimples]

No warnings about cast iron rotors here (the controversial upgrade)--
http://ebcbrakes.com/product/double-h-superbike-pads/
http://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=110_122&products_id=1601

An option if you flush (rebuild) the complete system as previously noted--
http://www.belray.com/bel-ray-silicone-dot-5-brake-fluid

Even if you just replace the lines, get a MityVac (vacuum pump) and make your task much easier. I don't think this is controversial advice--
http://www.harborfreight.com/mityvac-vacuum-pump-39522.html

[Rich A]

I posted this tip on separating the fittings a little while ago: http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=76291.0

I ended up needing an additional line because one in the kit I had gotten as too short. I got that line and fittings from Venhill. The nice thing about the Venhill system is that it is easy to get the correct angle when attaching the banjos. Their lines are pricey, however.

Bleeding the lines is a true pita. A vacuum bleeder helps--I made an electric one and even with that bleeding took a long time. Oh, and before you start bleeding, use an eye dropper to remove most of the old fluid from the reservoirs, then fill with new. No sense sending old fluid thru the lines.

Of course after I installed the lines, the cap on the front MC started leaking.

Rich A

[Groover]

Can you still find the OEM one? I seem to strike-out when I was searching for my G5.

[Vince in Milwaukee]

Thanks for the replies everyone.  Dimples, thank you for posting a picture of your up grade; that sure is clean and tidy looking.  I may just go that route.  This will, most likely, be a project for next summer as my mechanic is booked solid.  In the mean time, I've got plenty to think about.