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Condenser s ???
What happens if you run it with the tach disconnected?
Did you ever replace the coil and if so, with what?
Choke not closed all the way?
Yes I did replace the coil, a while back I bought an electronic ignition kit from Curtis, this was prior to fitting the alternator. A year later a diode in the alternator went kaput, and in diagnosing this I failed (stupidly) to remove the battery + and I fried the electronic ignition Education is not cheap no matter how you get itI put the points back in and all has been well other than difficulty starting when hot. I had my V7 Sport tuned on a dyno so I thought what the heck lets see if the Eldo can run a lot better. Perhaps it is a coincidence but either the tach is the source or something happened during the dyno tuneWhen I first got the Eldo moving I had carbon high tension leads, Mike Harper diagnosed the carbon leads as the cause of the bike dying once it got hot, swapped to good old copper core and it ran like a top.Should I swap to a blue Bosch coil?
Just run the bike up to failure point, then begin disconnecting things. Tacho is easy, individual coils are easy, condensers are easy and even the power from m he regulator if you think it is this. Stating the obvious here, eliminating the simple things is easier then wildly guessing
My Eldorado ran great all last year other than being a little difficult to start when hot. This winter I dropped the bike off at a shop for a dyno run. The shop claimed that the bike was now perfect, started on the button, They claimed the throttle cable on one side was a wee bit to short and the left hand carb was to rich fouling a plug and leading to difficult hot starting. This spring I took the bike for a half days ride at mixed speeds, mostly secondary highway. At the end of the day the bike was having a hard time idling, I had to keep the rpm up or it would die. The whole time the damn tachometer was flapping back and forth with a mind of its own. I thought the poor running was a symptom of the tach interrupting the ignition. The plugs were all sooty. For the past month the Eldo has sat while I have run the V7 Sport. I tried to take the Eldo out last week but it was difficult to start and would not idle.I tried fresh plugs on the weekend started up, idled for a while then died.This evening I went through everything I could think of, stripped the carbs down, checked float height, torqued the heads (they were to spec), set the valve gap ( again they were to spec), set the point gap and the static timing (seemed to be good), then installed fresh plugs. Started right up. I let it warm up and synced the carbs with mercury sticks. After a good ten minutes the idle was dropping right down and the bike would die unless I raised the rpm. I had to raise the idle to keep it running, eventually the idle dropped off an it it struggled to run then died, Bike refused to restart. I opened the gas cap several times when it began to fade, to no avail.Bike has an alternator conversion, engine has 2500 miles un a total rebuild. I have an Odyssey battery that is always on a battery tender when parked.An I missing something simple??Could this be a faulty coil, I wonder if the buggered electronic tach could have wrecked the coil?[/quoteThis may be a long shot, but.....could your ignition switch contacts get hot from excessive resistance (caused by corrosion) and reduce or cut out juice to the coil? Val
Check the Voltage on the coil.A Voltmeter will not always show the truth for example if the points are open it will show 12 Volts even with a high resistance to the coil, try a jumper from the battery to coil hot terminal.With the points disconnected from the coil measure Ohms to chassis on the points terminal it should go from zero to infinity in a curve as the condenser charges when the points open.
