2003 Aluminum with an electrical prob.

[gfritzmeier]

In answer to an older post of mine it's been kinda agreed that what is causing a problem for me is a sticky solenoid.  I've been advised to clean it and I'm a little embarrassed to admit but I'm not sure exactly what is meant by that. How do I go about to cleaning the starter and solenoid????  I don't want to start doing something that would cause more problems.

[Wayne Orwig]

Step 1:  Remove all ground wires at the battery negative terminal.

Then take out the two 13mm bolts.
Remove , unscrew, or hammer off the bling cover over starter.
Take off wires.
You need Torx bits to pull the solenoid.
I think there are two rivets that need drilled out also.

[Kiwi_Roy]

When you say sticky solenoid what do you mean?

Describe the symptoms so we can help.

[Wayne Orwig]

When you say sticky solenoid what do you mean?

Describe the symptoms so we can help.

http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=76884.0

[father guzzi obrian]

To me, that generation of Cali has the fewest electrical gremlins of any series.  make sure your grounds (and additional grounds you add) are dandy and Bob's you uncle.  I have a fully thrashed, high mileage 02 Cal SS. I added some grounds, got rid of the kickstand sensor etc. and I have been over 10 years with no problems and I only change the fluids. I would ride that bike cross country tomorrow.  I have owned many Japanese bikes, but I trust my Cal SS like no other.  When the speedo starts jumpin, lubricate the speedo cable, or you will soon replace it

[Kiwi_Roy]

It's still not clear to me if it's sticky as in gummed up or the usual Startus Interuptus.

Sometimes the solenoids get over lubed with the wrong oil, over time it changes to the consistency of chewing gum sticking up the works. I think it should be possible to clean it up without fully disassembling it.

As Wayne said on the other thread if the solenoid hangs (sticks) it will cause a fuse to blow, While it's pulling in the solenoid is drawing 45 - 50 Amps it only takes a second of that to blow the fuse.
When the main contacts close the current drops down to about 10 Amps.
Also if the main battery connection is loose even when the solenoid is fully engaged it will continue to pull the heavy current and the fuse will pop.

Some guys recommend leaving the solenoid dry, I just lightly lube it with a couple of drops of 3 in 1.

I suggest if you aren't sure about how to clean it take it to an auto electrician and ask him to do it for you.

[Kiwi_Roy]

The other problem with the battery drain.
You need to figure out where the current is going, normally with the key off the kill switch is dead but a previous owner may have made "other arrangements"

Remove all the wires off the battery negative, group them together and connect a small lamp between this group and the battery negative.
When you turn the key on the lamp will operate at full brightness, when you turn the key off it should go out, right?

If it doesn't go out then by a process of elimination find out where the current is going.

A word about the small lamp.
Even the tiny idiot lamps draw about 50 milliamps to glow so quite a significant drain would go un-noticed. A 12 Volt LED on the other hand only requires a few milliamps to light quite brightly i.e. it's much more sensitive, if the LED doesn't light you are ok. (just make sure it does go when you turn the key on)
In this case you would wire the LED with the positive wire on the chassis.

Note: I didn't suggest reading the leakage current with a multi-meter, there's a good reason for that.