2021 v7 850 First Service

[Beowulf]

So any tips for the first service on the v7 850? Anything substantially different from the V7 II or III I should be aware of? I will have hit 930 miles by the time I make it home (1500 kilometers). I have the kit ready to go and am going to check the owners manual for valve clearances which will be done after the engine cools tomorrow. Ill dump the oil this evening. Thanks in advance. Been loving this bike. P.S. I searched for info on this topic but i didnt see anything.

[greer]

Good luck, Beowulf.  Remember, you can download the service manual from Cadre if you need it.  Let us know how it goes, please.

Sarah

[mmcwhitehead]

I helped a friend perform the first service on his 2021 V7 850 this pasted weekend. It was about as straightforward as it could be. We put it on my roll-on front wheel chock and put the rear wheel on a set of tire cleaning rollers.

Oil and filter change was simple. I was not impressed by the oil filter cover. It's held in place by a through-bolt that gets a crush washer under its head- pretty normal stuff. But the surface of the cover where the crush washer seals did not appear to have been machined, it looked like a rough casting surface. Definitely use a new crush washer each time here. The old one was squeezed so thin that it had the hex-shaped imprint of the bolt head. I never saw such a crushed crush washer.

Valve adjustment went just fine. I just wish M-G had designed the bike with an easier way to turn over the engine when finding TDC. Maybe I missed something, but we had to do it by putting it in gear (6th works best) and turning the rear wheel. I can use a socket wrench on my California 1400... much easier!

The other checks were easy. The clutch required a little adjustment. Cleaning the air box drain was simple.

The specified 1.75 liters of oil brought the level to the full mark upon warm up.

That's my experience. Hope it helps.

[Kev m]

I helped a friend perform the first service on his 2021 V7 850 this pasted weekend. It was about as straightforward as it could be. We put it on my roll-on front wheel chock and put the rear wheel on a set of tire cleaning rollers.

Oil and filter change was simple. I was not impressed by the oil filter cover. It's held in place by a through-bolt that gets a crush washer under its head- pretty normal stuff. But the surface of the cover where the crush washer seals did not appear to have been machined, it looked like a rough casting surface. Definitely use a new crush washer each time here. The old one was squeezed so thin that it had the hex-shaped imprint of the bolt head. I never saw such a crushed crush washer.

Valve adjustment went just fine. I just wish M-G had designed the bike with an easier way to turn over the engine when finding TDC. Maybe I missed something, but we had to do it by putting it in gear (6th works best) and turning the rear wheel. I can use a socket wrench on my California 1400... much easier!

The other checks were easy. The clutch required a little adjustment. Cleaning the air box drain was simple.

The specified 1.75 liters of oil brought the level to the full mark upon warm up.

That's my experience. Hope it helps.

* Oil filter cover - sounds like it's the same as all the earlier smallblocks. DON'T over-tighten it (don't believe service manual torque specs here or make damn well sure the wrench is properly calibrated). If the washer deforms, it was over-tightened (including from the factory). I've only replaced that washer once on my 2013 and never on my 2018.

* Finding TDC - you USED to be able to spin the front when the alternator was dry (like on my 2013) and I have always made new marks on the front of the motor and crank nut to help find TDC. But on my 2018 with the wet alternator yeah, you have to spin the rear tire. Could be more convenient sure, but could be way worse.

* Filling to capacity is generally considered a no-no on Guzzis. I've not had one yet that didn't like to find its own oil level, just a little way down the dipstick. The mechanism for self-leveling as such on smallblocks has often been to dump the "excess" into the air cleaner. Which can become problematic if it is enough to start drawing it into the throttle body in liquid form, clogging passages and fouling sensors.

[Beowulf]

Well I changed the oil last night I might take a little out as it is right at the fill mark and my V7ii was really prone to spitting any excess in air filter box.  It was a little less than two quarts total and overall and wasnt bad. My crush washer was extremely crushed as well. Appreciate the advice. I will check out Cadre cycle. I commandeered my wife's Royal Enfield for today to make sure my valves are (excuse the expression) stone cold.

I tightened the oil drain plug snug and didn't use a torque wrench. I don't always trust the torque wrench. I checked the transmission drain plug and it came loose with just my fingers. So I ended up changing the gearbox oil out and snugging up the bolt to moderate levels. It surprised me. I will change the final drive oil after setting the valves.

Does anyone know what the valves for the 850 need to be set at? Ill check out the manual I just haven't gotten there yet. Thanks to all who responded. I ordered a stand to lift the bike and should make the valve adjustment easier. Hopefully it will be here by tomorrow.

[Beowulf]

Good luck, Beowulf.  Remember, you can download the service manual from Cadre if you need it.  Let us know how it goes, please.

Sarah

   

Thank you that really helped.

[greer]

Service manual page 68:

Characteristic
Intake valve clearance
0.10 mm (0.0039 in)
Exhaust valve clearance
0.15 mm (0.0059 in)

 Sarah

[Vagrant]

My V85 experiance is it does not fill the air box if overfilled!
The oil filter cover has a hole of much bigger diameter than the through bolt. I think the engine and cover expand when hot and the bolt doesn't. Thus causing more crush. It really needs a spacer around the bolt. Last time I used 2 different size crush washers to see if it would stop the mashing. I need to stick my head under there and see if it worked.

[Kev m]

My V85 experiance is it does not fill the air box if overfilled!

I believe the V85 has a pretty different (EDIT - see later in thread, I'm wrong here it's not as different as I thought) (dual pump, semi-dry sump) lubrication system. No idea how similar (or not) the breather systems might be, but it seems like Guzzi was changing them on the V7s every year or two for a while as there are multiple variants in hoses, routing, check valves, airbox fittings etc since my 2013.

[Kiwi_Roy]

I would say just talk to the service manager and buy the kit from them, my service manager was more than happy to have me do my V7III
Yes, turning the rear wheel is the only way to turn the engine over slowly, the alternator runs in oil so there's no access to the crankshaft.

[Vagrant]

The V85 & V7-850 are one and the same. Just less power.

[Kev m]

The V85 & V7-850 are one and the same. Just less power.

No, they're not.

Well not exactly the same, they DON'T share the throttle bodies, or valve trains (titanium valves and what not).

I can't say for sure about the dual oil pumps but I THOUGHT the V7-850 didn't have that either.

Let me go poke around again, I'll report back if I find anything.

Ohhhhhh, ok I stand at least partially corrected.

It's not "the same" though more closely related than I thought.

And according to this article it includes the semi-dry sump/dual oil pump design. I don't remember any initial reports covering that so it's much closer than I thought:

https://www.roadracingworld.com/news/more-on-the-new-moto-guzzi-v7-models/

The engine is entirely new compared with the V7 III: the more rigid crankcase is the result of a new design; Lubrication involves a semi dry sump, with two coaxial pumps (one for oil delivery and the other for oil recovery) that ensure excellent lubrication and dispense with the need for an oil radiator. The semi dry sump solution has all the advantages of dry sump engines, without the disadvantage of the encumbrance of the external oil reservoir, since sump itself carries out this function. The primary advantages are: less loss of power because of friction due to the interaction of the crank drive with the oil, lower maximum temperature reached by the oil and freedom of the bike to reach a greater lean or pitch angle without any lubrication problems, thereby allowing the reduction of the quantity of lubricant needed to ensure that the pump has correct draft in any situation. in keeping with Moto Guzzi identity, OHV distribution with two valves per cylinder (made of steel) is retained, though the system and materials used are all new. Cylinders are of reduced height, while efficient oil passages and a fastening system to the reinforced crankcase ensure robustness and reliability. The heads have dedicated mix entry ducts and links. One of the stand-out aspects of a Moto Guzzi engine is its distribution, complete with aluminium roller cams and rocker arm pushrods. Furthermore, lightweight pistons are used, with 20 mm diameter pins. Engine control relies on a single Marelli throttle body, 38 mm in diameter, with a traditional mechanical throttle control. The new Moto Guzzi engine is also rather frugal in terms of consumption: it has few components that absorb power (OHV distribution is one of the most frugal in terms of power absorption) and has no cooling circuit pump or long drive chains or belts. So, not only is it more powerful and cleaner than the engine in the previous V7, but it also consumes less, resulting in a range of more than 400 km after filling up, thanks to the 21-litre fuel tank.

Ooohhhh, follow up question for the V7 850 owners. Do you guys have an oil level sight glass now?!?

[Dave Swanson]

Ooohhhh, follow up question for the V7 850 owners. Do you guys have an oil level sight glass now?!?

Yes we do! Is this the straw that breaks the camel's back Kev?   

[Kev m]

Yes we do! Is this the straw that breaks the camel's back Kev?   

 

Nice.... It's another piece of the puzzle.

But I still don't want to give up anything in the fleet for it. Well, not anything she'll allow me to, lol.

[mechanicsavant]

Methinks I read somewhere the V7/850 has a pressed together crankshaft . Also if you’re wandering around in a “hopeless freight” store throw a copper washer assortment in your basket , a 1000 & 1 uses around home & farm & Guzzi’s .

[Beowulf]

Well I adjusted the valves last night and forgot about dinner. The Mrs. was understanding and let me be. I was going to pull a little oil out this morning but it’s currently raining cats and dogs. I do like the sight glass on this. I had already purchased a service kit and my favorite brand of oil. So nearly done. I’m going to change the final drive oil later as well if this rain let’s up. My wife’s Royal Enfield is nice but I’d be lying if said the Guzzi isn’t more comfortable. Anxious to finish.

[Kev m]

Well I adjusted the valves last night and forgot about dinner. The Mrs. was understanding and let me be. I was going to pull a little oil out this morning but it’s currently raining cats and dogs. I do like the sight glass on this. I had already purchased a service kit and my favorite brand of oil. So nearly done. I’m going to change the final drive oil later as well if this rain let’s up. My wife’s Royal Enfield is nice but I’d be lying if said the Guzzi isn’t more comfortable. Anxious to finish.

I don't recall and a quick re-scan of the thread didn't answer it. Did you check the air box for oil?

If you checked and didn't find any or much (or if you didn't check, then go ahead now and if you don't find any/much), then I wouldn't bother taking any oil out. Especially if it was delivered to you with the same level it is at now.

Just keep an eye, maybe check again in a couple thousand miles.

And have fun - awesome bike!

[Huzo]

What do you guys do about the fluid in the gearbox and bevelbox ?
I change engine/gearbox/ final drive every 10,000 k

[egschade]

What do you guys do about the fluid in the gearbox and bevelbox ?
I change engine/gearbox/ final drive every 10,000 k

I change mine very 5K miles (8K km) or as part of my winterization routine. Oil is cheap, gears are not.

[sib]

The 2021 V7's use the same oil in the gearbox and bevel gear drive, 75W-140 weight API GL5 grade, 500 cc in the gearbox and 180 cc in the bevel gear drive.  The 180 cc figure is for starting with a dry bevel gear drive; for draining and refilling, 160 cc refill is recommended.  No extra moly or other additives are recommended.  The specified oil change interval for both the gearbox and bevel gear drive is 30,000 km (18,641 mi).

It's true that oil is cheaper than a motorcycle, but there is no need to overdo it.  This gearbox oil is used in heavy-duty trucks and buses, where the change interval can be 500,000 mi or more.

[Kev m]

The 2021 V7's use the same oil in the gearbox and bevel gear drive, 75W-140 weight API GL5 grade, 500 cc in the gearbox and 180 cc in the bevel gear drive.  The 180 cc figure is for starting with a dry bevel gear drive; for draining and refilling, 160 cc refill is recommended.  No extra moly or other additives are recommended.  The specified oil change interval for both the gearbox and bevel gear drive is 30,000 km (18,641 mi).

It's true that oil is cheaper than a motorcycle, but there is no need to overdo it.  This gearbox oil is used in heavy-duty trucks and buses, where the change interval can be 500,000 mi or more.

 

[Beowulf]

I don't recall and a quick re-scan of the thread didn't answer it. Did you check the air box for oil?

If you checked and didn't find any or much (or if you didn't check, then go ahead now and if you don't find any/much), then I wouldn't bother taking any oil out. Especially if it was delivered to you with the same level it is at now.

Just keep an eye, maybe check again in a couple thousand miles.

And have fun - awesome bike!

.  Thank you. I checked the air box no oil but I did change it and drew out 100 ml and after warming up and riding it was at the  perfect level. Took it to work and gotta say it being in adjustment with the 900 mile run in service complete has really made a noticeable difference. 

[T607]

I am just getting ready to change the final drive oil on my 2023 V7 850 Special. Got the kit from AF1 and the procedure seems straight forward: Open refill plug, open drain plug, install new gaskets, refill with 160 cc. However, on top of the hub under a rubber cap is another bolt, probably a breathing device?? Does this one need any attention?
Thanks

[Kev m]

I am just getting ready to change the final drive oil on my 2023 V7 850 Special. Got the kit from AF1 and the procedure seems straight forward: Open refill plug, open drain plug, install new gaskets, refill with 160 cc. However, on top of the hub under a rubber cap is another bolt, probably a breathing device?? Does this one need any attention?
Thanks

Need? Not definitely.

Sometimes the breathers get clogged and pressure can cause a seal leak

But normally it doesn't need any service.

On earlier models it was easy to remove the breather, add replacement fluid through the opening, and check or clean the breather before reinstallation

But I've heard tell of some newer models where the breather is partially obscured by the wheel hub, so if that's the case ignore it until you pull the rear wheel for tire service and then maybe check it.

[T607]

Thanks Kev, I'll just leave it untouched then.

[Kiwi_Roy]

The Guzzi Manuals suck big time.
Its terrible that owners have to come here when it should be spelled out in black and white.

[Kev m]

The Guzzi Manuals suck big time.
Its terrible that owners have to come here when it should be spelled out in black and white.

Actually unless something has changed the OEM manuals from most EU manufacturers are quite different from those published by JAPanInc or US OEM's. It's philosophical and efficient and hard to argue with in some ways, but definitely leaves something to be desired to DIY'ers.

It's all predicted on a complete library for the model and engine. They only publish revisions or updates when things change enough.

But even then Guzzi seems to forget things or just plain get things wrong more often than others.