Muh Questionz

[stomatomoto]

Hello, let me begin with this:  :Beating_A_Dead_Hors e_by_liviu:

...because it was readily available, and I'm sure that's going to happen with me at some point. Because this board isn't organized by certain categories, I assumed "General Discussion" was appropriate enough for this, my list of noob questions. I'm a first time rider, and I just took home a brand-new 2016 MG V7 Stone 2 about a month ago, and it currently has just under 300 miles on it. So, I'll approach these in list format if that's alright:

1. What are the widest tires I can mount on this bike?
2. During the break-in period, I've been advised by dealer to not exceed 6k RPM, but in doing so I fear I've been "lugging" the motor too much as I "learn the bike"; how worried should I be about the effects of this on the motor?
3. Does anyone else have occasional issues with getting the bike to start? I've had at least 4 instances now where it's taken a long time of trying and retrying to get it to start, where it's turning over a bunch but just fails to ignite and go... Usually twisting the throttle during the starting helps I think.
4. Does anyone have a go-to source for online resources on how to maintain or do stuff on this bike? I keep coming up short on my searches for how to lift the gas tank, or how to install aftermarket mufflers.
5. How adjustable is the clutch pull? The test bike I rode during a test ride at the dealership seemed to have a lighter pull, and this clutch makes my hand ache from being pretty stiff.
6. What is your most recommended shop for aftermarket/custom components?

I have more but long day at work and passing out now. You guys rock, this forum seems awesome.

[Vasco DG]

1. stay with the stock profiles or it will handle like a pig on stilts.

2. Just ride it 'Normally'. Don't lug it, don't thrash it.

3. There is a map upgrade that is supposed to help with cold start.

4. There is no need to lift the tank for most work. If you do need to it's fairly obvious. Be careful of the fuel pump elbow. Mufflers? Unbolt the originals, (That work well.) and bolt on the aftermarket ones (which probably won't.)

5. There isn't a huge aftermarket for V7's. There are a few places, some are better than others.

Pete

[malik]

Let's expand a little on Pete's advoce -

3. A lot of people seem to have cold start issues on the single throttle body models (yours) - search this board for prior questions and answers ("V7 cold start" should get you a list). It seems to help if you start the bike before donning your helmet & gloves & let the bike idle a while. You may still have to keep the revs up a little to prevent stalling for a while till it warms more.  It seems to help with this if the slack in the throttle is less (there's adjusters on the 2 throttle cables just under the throttle = peel back the boots & you'll see them). The cold start issue does improve with mileage. The ECU update may also help with this.

4. On-line sources - an electronic version of the owners manual should be available from your dealer or Moto Guzzi. The owners, workshop and spare parts manuals, for previous models at least, is available  from "this old tractor" (http://www.thisoldtractor.com/moto_guzzi_small_blocks.html). There are other sources.  There are useful photo tutorials (including lifting the tank) on the MG750 yahoo site. There's also quite a bit in the archives here - search those. The V7 Special/Stone/Clasic, the Breva & Nevada have similar tank connections.

5. There is a limited amount of clutch adjustment - there's a post here by Pete (Vasco DG) that's definitive - sometime in the last 6 months or so, I think. Can't put my hand on it just at present. Out of the box, the adjustment may not suit your hand. The clutch pull should NOT be heavy - see your dealer. 

6. Aftermarket goodies - there's lots. Here's just a few:- Start with Moto Guzzi itself. In italy there's Agostini Mandello, maybe Stucchi too, but I haven't checked lately; in the UK there's Corsa Italiana and their Corsa Speedshop on eBay; in Australia there's Motociclo, in the US there's Harpers, AF1, Guzzitech, Moto International, amongst others; TLM in Holland.There's lots more, but these will give you an idea of what's available. Aftermarket mufflers in MY order of preference are Staintune, Agostini (they have a few), Mistral, Arrow, Lafranconi. After this there's racks & luggage, seats & saddles, adjustable levers, mirrors, driving lights, fairings & screens, handlebars, rear sets, tail tidys, head protectors, dash lowering kits, throttle locks/cruise controls, dipstick tools, GPS & phone mounts, and so on. You won't be short of stuff to spend your hard-earned on. Enjoy.

Mal

[malik]

Here's that article on adjusting the clutch cable = Pete's answer is reply #1 - it's a little different on the V7 II, but not much - the principle's the same

http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=73961.0

Mal

[Cam3512]

"Cold start" issue has nothing to do with the bike firing up.  If the bike isn't allowed to warm up a couple minutes, it stalls when you engage the clutch while taking off in first gear.  I'm assuming your '16 Stone is a V7 II, so it should already have the updated map. 

There IS a huge aftermarket of items for your bike.  AF1, MG Cycle and GuzziTech to name a few of my personal favorites.  Mine runs and handles great with Agostini aftermarket mufflers.

I would get to know the bike by putting on some miles before making any changes.  Check the adjustment and routing of your clutch cable.  Do a "search" here for lots of good info. 

I'd put your location under your profile.  There may be other members here that live nearby to lend a hand.

[stomatomoto]

Thanks guys, really appreciated the insights, lots to work with here. I'd like to learn to do more of my own maintenance, but I've never been the sort to get in there and mix things up manually myself, so I'm wary about that. Given that I'm 1.25 hours away from the dealer, this is high on my list though.

2. Just ride it 'Normally'. Don't lug it, don't thrash it.

Sorry, let me clarify: I know how I should be riding it, but what I'm saying is my crappy skills and lack of familiarity with the bike have caused me to operate it less than optimally on occasion, all accidental. Also, what is an optimal RPM range for "cruising"? Where should the tach be the majority of the time, optimally? And, how likely am I to burn out the clutch from "playing the friction zone" too much, or is that not even a concern?

"Cold start" issue has nothing to do with the bike firing up.  If the bike isn't allowed to warm up a couple minutes, it stalls when you engage the clutch while taking off in first gear.  I'm assuming your '16 Stone is a V7 II, so it should already have the updated map. 

This. This is what happens, and that is the explanation then. So let it warm up, basically. ^MAN did that make me crazy a few times now.

Going to review the rest of the advice and take it under advisement, thanks again folks. I'll add my location to my profile, whoops--thought I had already.

[Cam3512]

Same engine as my '14 V7 Special.  Mine loves to cruise between 4-5K.  Keep yours there (below 5K) until break-in service. 

[oldbike54]

 Comfortable RPM range is probably 2800 to 5500 RPMs . Don't worry about being a newbie , we all were at one time . Ask all of the questions you want 

  Dusty

[canuguzzi]

You have two dealers within reasonable riding distance. Elk Grove Powersports and Munroe's in SF. The tech at Munroe's is very good. That is just in case you need warranty work. Sounds like you bought from one of them.

[stomatomoto]

I indeed purchased from Elk Grove; my experience with them was better than with Munroe, which I have chalked up to their being a smaller shop and not wanting to deal with a nooblet like myself. Elk Grove let me, a new rider, do a test ride, so yeah, sold. Curious about how the service experience is going to be--it already appears to be quite pricey, but I don't have a good frame of reference for these things really.

Thanks for the insights on the RPM range, this corroborates other statements I've seen elsewhere on forums and such. I cringe a lot when I accidentally "lug" it around 2200 at the lowest, but I'm more worried about the times I've accidentally slipped past 5k, briefly but it's happened. Am I in trouble?

[Vasco DG]

No.

[Chuck in Indiana]

but I'm more worried about the times I've accidentally slipped past 5k, briefly but it's happened. Am I in trouble?

Just ride it. Try not to stay at one rpm for long distances. Lots of acceleration and deceleration. Over 5K? Pffffft. 

[sib]

Sorry, let me clarify: I know how I should be riding it, but what I'm saying is my crappy skills and lack of familiarity with the bike have caused me to operate it less than optimally on occasion, all accidental. Also, what is an optimal RPM range for "cruising"? Where should the tach be the majority of the time, optimally? And, how likely am I to burn out the clutch from "playing the friction zone" too much, or is that not even a concern?

These bikes are very forgiving.  My '13 Stone was the first bike I had ridden after a 35+-year hiatus.  Yes, I stalled it a few times, lugged it a few times, over-revved it once or twice, started off in the wrong gear a few times, let out the clutch too fast or too slowly a few times, dropped it gently a few times, the latter costing me a couple of clutch levers and a mirror, and the bike never complained, bit back, or had any serious damage.  After 12,000 mi, even my skills eventually improved, so I'm sure yours will.

[stomatomoto]

Thanks all, just checked the responses here again and I appreciate all the insights, this is exactly what I was looking for. My "break-in" period is almost over, 428 miles on the odometer, so I'm looking forward to seeing what happens when it goes over 6k rpm in earnest. Does anyone have any break-in tips that might help me out later on down the line if done now? Is it guacamole on the dip stick? It is, isn't it. Don't hold out on me guys, I'm a serious nooblet.

ALSO, does anyone have any experience with head guards vs. crash bars? I just had a this exact set of bars on my Guz' on Saturday, seem to be working well and don't look half bad, plus they look like they'd work if/when it gets knocked over at some point, but the head guards just look so clean...

[Cam3512]

Just keep checking the tightness of all fasteners on the bike, including the header collars up on the heads.  They have a way of vanishing.  LocTite is your friend on most nuts and bolts.

I have black crash bars on mine, and am okay with the looks.  KevM uses "sliders" mounted to the frame for a more minimalist approach.  Not aware of many head guards that fit the '13 + bikes.

[malik]

There doesn't seem to be any headguards available for the single throttle bodied versions of the V7 (correct me if I'm wrong), but the crash bars do the job, at least at low speeds. A mate's '13 Special fell over in the driveway at the end of a long trip, & the bars saved scratching the valve cover. A wise investment, I'd say. And they don't look half bad either.

Mal

[O]

Save yourself some $ and get the Agostini version for the II - http://www.af1racing.com/store/Scripts/prodView.asp?idProduct=76491

I have the pre-II version on mine, and it definitely works.